Floridiana Magazine

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The Athens of Florida: DeLand

Brief History of DeLand

DeLand’s rich history goes back to when the area was known as Persimmon Hollow and was only accessible by steamboat along the St. John’s River.  Captain John Rich built a log cabin there in 1874, then two years later, in 1876, Henry A. DeLand visited his brother-in-law who lived in Persimmon Hollow.  DeLand liked it so much he purchased a $1,000 plot of land with the idea of developing the area.  He offered settlers purchasing the property a chance to sell it back to him within a two-year period.  DeLand lived up to his word after a freeze destroyed all of their crops and they could no longer stay there.  He bought back all the land.

“Henry’s Vision”

DeLand is also responsible for the city’s nickname “The Athens of Florida.”  Although he was never a full-time resident of the state, he wanted the city to become a place of culture, education and beauty like Athens, Greece.

Stetson University

Stetson University, Florida’s oldest private college, also plays a major role in the city’s history.  Stetson sits on about 160 acres of land in the heart of DeLand.  Founded in 1883 as DeLand University, its name was changed to Stetson University in 1889 in honor of John B. Stetson, a hat manufacturer who, along with Henry DeLand (founder of the city), was one of the founding trustees of the university.

DeLand Hall

Beautiful brick buildings are part of the university’s landscape.  One of those buildings, Elizabeth Hall, was built in 1885 and sits on North Woodland Boulevard.  Elizabeth Hall and other buildings like it are the reasons the university is on the National Register of Historic Places for the state’s “oldest collection of education-related buildings.”

Elizabeth Hall, built 1885

This picturesque campus has been ranked as the 5th best regional university in the South in the 2017 U.S. News and World Report’s guide to America’s Best Colleges.

Stetson Mansion

When planning for this day trip to DeLand, I knew I also wanted to see the Stetson Mansion, but driving up to the entrance, the gate was closed and a sign indicated the start time of the next tour.   Reservations for the tours are required, which means I should have done a little more research! Nevertheless, looking through the gate at this massive mansion, it’s easy to understand why it is Florida’s first luxury estate.

The mansion is referred to as “The House that Hats Built” and served as the winter home for John B. Stetson for 20 years.  Built in 1886, the mansion is filled with intricate carvings, parquet floors and 10,000 panes of antique window glass. It is also one of the first homes in the world with electricity, thanks to the friendship between Stetson and Thomas Edison.  Although it is now a private residence, year-round tours are still offered with special tours taking place during the Christmas holidays.

Athens Theatre

It’s only fitting that the city known as The Athens of Florida is home to its own Athens Theatre.  The theatre is in Historic Downtown DeLand at the end of Indiana Avenue along North Florida Avenue.  The theatre opened its doors in 1922 and was dubbed “Florida’s Handsomest Theatre.”  The theatre has evolved over the years from vaudeville acts to a movie theatre to a dinner theatre.  It closed its doors in the early 1990s but became the focus of the MainStreet DeLand Association which recognized the role it plays in the history of the city.  It is now owned by a non-profit theatre company and produces six Broadway caliber shows per year.  The Athens Theatre Youth Company also uses the facility to educate the youth about the performing arts.

The DeLand Mural Walk

Another must-see in DeLand is the city’s Mural Walk.  With 12 official murals painted on the sides of buildings around town, it is part of the Florida Mural Trail.  Each mural offers its own story about the history of Deland and range from smaller paintings, like “Gibbs Clothing Store”

…to the city’s longest mural at Painter’s Pond Park.  At 100 feet long, it shows what train passengers would see as they were riding through DeLand in the early 1900s.

In addition to the “official” murals, there are several others painted around town that are worth seeing.  The “Wings” painting along Pill Alley is one of those that visitors seek out, perhaps in an effort to earn their own wings.

Shopping and Dining in DeLand

The streets of DeLand are filled with stores, restaurants, and drinking establishments. Music stores offer up vinyl records of some of the old favorites, while antique stores provide treasure hunters plenty of opportunities to plunder.

Three-story antique store. A dream come true!

Hometown breweries like Persimmon Hollow Brewing Company and outdoor spaces like DaVinci Gardens give patrons unique experiences to relax and unwind.

On the outside looking in

Fun during the day, but buzzing at night

Other Things to See in DeLand

If these things aren’t enough to keep a person busy, there are a couple of other opportunities to take in the city of DeLand.  Stop by the old courthouse and gaze up at the amazing architecture, or visit the Chess Park adjacent to the courthouse.  Chess pieces are not provided.

With so much to see and do in DeLand, it’s best to do a little research beforehand.  But it’s definitely a place to go to continue “celebrating all things Florida.”

The Gamble Place

One of the great things about Florida is there is always a new place to explore, one you never knew existed. A recent trip to Port Orange led to the discovery of yet another hidden treasure. Not only does it offer a step back in time, but also a little bit of whimsy and a window into a backwoods retreat.

Egwanulti

Egwanulti is the name given to the Gamble Place by James N. Gamble, the son of the co-founder of the Procter and Gamble Company. Egwanulti is a Native American word meaning “by the water” which is fitting because of its location along Spruce Creek. Gamble bought the land in 1898, but it wasn’t until 1907 that he built the cracker-style house that still stands on the property today. The house features a separate kitchen and dining room, connected by a breezeway or dog-trot, and an open front porch.  The back porch, with its chairs and benches, opens to the back yard with the creek just steps away.  Sitting on the porch, you can just imagine the stories shared by those who once called this place home during the winter months.

Gamble Place

An inviting back porch

Besides the house, Gamble also rebuilt a packing house on the property to process the citrus from his own grove.

Citrus Packing House

The Gamble Place sits on 175 acres and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1993.

Snow White Cottage

“Heigh-ho, Heigh-ho
It’s home from work we go…”

If those song lyrics conjure up a memory, then this Florida stop is a must-see.  Nestled along the banks of Spruce Creek on the eastern portion of the Gamble property, sits a replica of the Snow White Cottage. You know the one she stayed in with the dwarfs?  The cottage started out as plans for a playhouse, but by the time it was finished, it had expanded into a full-size replica and served as a retreat for guests of all ages. Judge Alfred K. Nippert, Gamble’s son-in-law, got the idea for the cottage after the Disney movie’s release in 1937, just three months after the death of his wife.

Snow White Cottage

Along with the cottage, there are two other structures.  The Diamond Mine is built in the same style as the cottage and is two stories.  The ground floor once had a tank used to store water.  On the second floor, a child’s dream – a playhouse.

“The Diamond Mine”

What would the cottage be without the Wicked Witch lurking nearby?  An old hollow cypress tree was moved to the property, placed on a stone foundation and roofed.  If you look closely, you’ll see a familiar face peering out of the window.

Wicked Witch’s Hut

Cracker Creek

Before you can get onto the Gamble property, you have to stop at the Cracker Creek office to pay a minimal admission fee. While you’re there though, ask about canoe and kayak rentals, or the hydro-bike rentals.  For a more leisurely trip down Spruce Creek, they also offer pontoon boat tours Friday through Sunday.

Cracker Creek Office

Rent a canoe or bring your own

Take a leisurely cruise

No matter if you’re at the Gamble Place or walking around the grounds at Cracker Creek, magnificent peacocks can be seen roaming the property.  These close encounters bring to full light the iridescent blues and greens in their feathers.

Beautiful peacocks roam the property

Cracker Creek and the Gamble Place are located in Port Orange off Taylor Road.  You cannot get inside the actual buildings through the self-tour.  The building tour is available for groups of ten or more but reservations must be made in advance.

Dunlawton Sugar Mill Gardens

Just a short drive off Nova Road (Highway 5A) in Port Orange is another one of those hidden gems in Florida. Dunlawton Sugar Mill Gardens is a 12-acre mix of gardens and Florida history.  I have to admit, one of the things that drew me here in the first place, was the knowledge an old Florida tourist attraction used to be on this site.  More on that later, but first a little about the sugar mill.

Entrance to Dunlawton Sugar Mill Gardens. Don’t forget to drop a donation in the box just inside.

Dunlawton Sugar Mill Plantation

The history of the plantation goes back to before Florida even became a state when it was part of a 995 acre land grant in 1804.  After passing through several hands, it was eventually purchased by Sarah Petty Anderson (Dunn) in 1832 under the name Dunlawton Plantation – a combination of Anderson’s maiden name and the previous owners of the land, Charles and Joseph Lawton. For three years, sugar and molasses were produced here, until the Second Seminole War.  Like many other mills in Florida, Dunlawton was burned to the ground. With no money to rebuild it, the Anderson family abandoned the property.  The mill changed hands a couple more times until it was burned down again during the Third Seminole War.  During the Civil War, Dunlawton was a camp for the St. John’s Rangers, in the 2nd Florida Cavalry who used the kettles for the “production of salt for food preservation and ammunition.”

Side view of the sugar mill, showing the purgery which contained vats to catch molasses drippings.

Kettle trains in the boiling room

Cane crusher

Visitors can get a good glimpse of what the sugar making process entailed.  Many of the old pieces of machinery are still in place, including a cane crusher, the boilers and kettles.  The brick structures are now protected by a metal roof, although at one time in its history a wooden roof created an “enclosed” sugar factory.

There are plenty of informational placards that provide a better understanding of the history of the mill and the process of sugar making. Make sure you stop and read them all.

One of many informational signs throughout the gardens

Bongoland

Who would have thought the site of protected archaeological ruins would also one day turn into a tourist attraction?  During the 1940s and ‘50s, the property was transformed into Bongoland – an attraction that featured animals, an Indian village, a train to take visitors around the park and a series of dinosaurs created out of chicken wire and concrete. Oh, and Bongo – the baboon that lived on the grounds.  Unfortunately, the whole idea of theme parks hadn’t caught on and Bongoland closed due to a lack of interest.

Bongoland brochure

Five of the original dinosaurs remain on the property and can be viewed during your walk around the park.  Most of them are located near the Children’s Garden and still remain an attraction in their own right. One park goer says she used to climb under and around the dinosaurs, but they have since been cordoned off with fencing.  Still, kids love to stand in front of these prehistoric animals and marvel at their size.  Plus they are perfect for picture taking!

Watch out for the dinosaurs!

Tyrannosaurus Rex – don’t let his “smile” deceive you!

Dimetrodon

Triceratops

Ground Sloth

Kids love the dinosaurs!

After Bongoland closed, the property sat neglected until it was bequeathed to Volusia County in 1963. An organization known as Botanical Gardens of Volusia, Inc. made a deal with the county and began leasing the property in 1985. Their work at the gardens relies 100% on donations and volunteers.

The gardens are filled with water features, flowers and plants.

Vine growing wild

Ginger

Fern

Confederate Oak – according to legend, Confederate soldiers frequently camped under it.

Whether you visit to meander along the many trails and look at the plants and flowers, view the dinosaurs or take a look back into the history of Florida sugar making, this is worth the visit.

Flower Circle

Floridiana Magazine (FM) Notes: The gardens are open every day from 8:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. (except for Christmas and New Years).   There is no admission fee, but donations are accepted. Botanical Gardens of Volusia, Inc. is always looking for volunteers to serve on committees or work in the gardens.  Visit their website for more information.