Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

The Orange Shop, Citra

Tucked away in North Central Florida, between Ocala and Hawthorne, is the small town of Citra.  It’s not a place with its own exit off Interstate 75.  In fact, unless you drive along Highway 301 or live in the area, you probably do not even know it exists.

Citra, known as the home of the pineapple orange, was founded in 1881 in an area where citrus was prominent.  While that is part of the town’s history, it isn’t the only unique feature about Citra. It is also the home of The Orange Shop, one of the last true roadside citrus stands in Florida.

Billboards and signs along 301 direct you to the shop, which sits at the intersection with Northeast 185 Street.  A grove, packing house and store all occupy the same piece of land. While some of the fruit for The Orange Shop is grown on-site, some is also brought in from the Indian River area.

The Orange Shop has been in business since 1936.  The owners are third-generation growers who continue to harvest fruit from groves that have been producing since the Civil War.  Bright orange columns welcome you onto the front porch, a part of the building with its own story.  When automobiles became the mode of transportation in the 1930s, fruit was sold from the front porch of the house to motorists who stopped by.  That porch has been kept intact since the beginning and still serves as the entry way, flanked with bags of fresh oranges that seem to say “Welcome to Florida.”

The store is exactly what you’d expect.  If it isn’t citrus-related, it is Florida-related.  Along the wall just inside the door, guests can choose from a plethora of items bearing The Orange Shop name and logo.

In another part of the store, additional items offer up Florida flavor, from an assortment of chutney and conserves to orange blossom honey.  If you’re looking to ship some Florida sunshine to out of state friends or family, sample gift boxes are displayed to provide examples of what’s available.

For visitors wanting to pick up some good reads, a book shelf spotlights numerous books about Florida or written by Floridians. Florida literature buffs will recognize one of the authors, Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, who lived less than ten miles away along Orange Lake.  Rawlings books Cross Creek, The Yearling and a cookbook are a few of the books for sale.  Other cookbooks, children’s books and books about Florida ghosts fill out the shelves.

The Orange Shop also offers up a true taste of Florida.  Make sure to try out an orange or grapefruit wedge or a sample of liquid sunshine – all available to purchase onsite. Friendly staff are on hand to help out with any of your needs.

The Orange Shop is open seven days a week from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., except for Thanksgiving, Christmas and Easter. Due to the seasonal nature of citrus, the shop is open from October 15 to June 1, so if you want to stop by, plan your trip accordingly.

Richloam General Store

Sometimes you are lucky to stumble upon a Florida gem simply by venturing away from the highways and taking the backroads.  But other times, it takes a small nugget of knowledge to direct you to a slice of Florida history you otherwise would not have seen.

Such is the case with the Richloam General Store, tucked away in the Withlacoochee State Forest in Hernando County. I heard about this little treasure through a friend on social media who said it was a place I needed to visit.

Where is the Richloam General Store?

The store sits south of State Road 50 on Richloam Clay Sink Road, about three miles east of U.S. 301. A small sign on this narrow winding road indicates you are approaching the Historic Richloam General Store.

Who would have known that a short distance from a main east-west highway through Florida sits a store that pays homage to the community’s past?  The front of the store is quaint and inviting.  Rocking chairs on the porch seem to beckon you to sit a while, listen to the sounds of the forest, and enjoy life the way it used to be.

It sounds a little cliché but stepping inside is like taking a step back in time.  From the moment you walk through the screen doors, you feel as though you are being transported back to the 1920s and 30s.

“Welcome to Richloam General Store.  Is this your first time here?”

Daisy Brinson, mother of property owner Eric Burkes, stands behind the original cash register and greets each customer as though they are family.  She is quick to offer up a brief history of the store – and more if you ask questions.  Daisy is proud of this little store and its history, not only to Richloam but also to her family.

Daisy Brinson

Richloam General Store’s History

The store was built in 1920 by Sid Brinson to serve as the general store and post office for the Richloam community.  A train depot, ice house, barn, and turpentine still also sat on the property.  In January 1928, the original store burned to the ground, amid speculation the fire was intentionally set to cover up a robbery, which would have been a federal crime because the store housed the post office.

In about a month’s time, the store was rebuilt – this time out of metal – and remained open until 1936.

After serving as a family residence until the mid-1950s, the store sat vacant for nearly 20 years, until John Brinson (Daisy’s husband) purchased the property from his uncle Sid’s estate in 1973.

Daisy reminisces about life on the property, recounting how her sons were raised here.  One of her fondest memories, she admits, is of the boys using the vacant store as their clubhouse.

Open for Business

Fast forward to 2016 when Daisy and John’s son Eric decides to renovate the store, using as much of the original building material as possible.  It is returned it to the way it was more than 80 years ago and reopened as a general store.

The original post office boxes sit just inside the door.  A hand painted sign hangs from the ceiling and copies of “Wanted” posters are taped to the exterior.  The letter slot is just below the postmaster’s window.

Sid Brinson’s name can be seen on some of the original sheets of metal used to rebuild the store in the late 20s. Each pallet that arrived had his name stamped on the top sheets of the bundle.

Other evidence of the original character of the building and the property can be seen elsewhere within the store.  Bricks from the old turpentine still now serve as the fireplace.

And Daisy is happy to point out the 1918 Singer Treadle Sewing Machine she still uses to make aprons, sock monkeys and Raggedy Ann and Andy dolls.

Of course, you can’t visit a general store without looking at the many items on the shelves themselves. The Richloam General Store stays true to the time period and offers goods you would have seen in the 20s and 30s, items you won’t necessarily see in today’s grocery stores.

Jams and jellies, sauces, local honey, salt-cured meat, and jars of candy all offer up a taste of life in simpler times.

Richloam General Store, the oldest historical building still standing in the Richloam area, was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2017.  The folks who stop by are the locals, hunters during hunting season, and the curious.  Fundraising efforts are now underway to restore or rebuild the other buildings on the property to provide more opportunities for visitors to learn about early life in the Richloam community.

Florida’s backroads don’t get any better than this.

 

Note: The Richloam General Store is open seven days a week from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

Traveling the Back Roads of North Central Florida

Growing up in a small Florida town, going from Point A to Point B always required traveling back roads.  I don’t think I ever really appreciated those drives until I moved to the city and had to drive on interstates or four-lane roads, all the while navigating through traffic.  Now, I look for those back roads.  I look for the small towns and the old buildings.  I look for those “unique” features that define the communities.  I look for Old Florida.

Lloyd, Florida

Lloyd is one of those places I probably would not have known about had it not been for this adventure to “celebrate all things Florida.”  Named after Walter Lloyd, a blacksmith from New York, it is located about a mile south of Interstate 10 at Exit 217 near Tallahassee.  It is also the birthplace of Mary Edwards Bryan (1846-1913), a writer of more than 20 novels, including Manch (1880) and Wild Work (1881).

The history of this little town can be tied to the railroad industry, which lasted until the 1930s.  As home to the oldest brick railroad station in Florida, Lloyd is a place for Florida history buffs to visit.  The Lloyd Railroad Depot was built in 1858 and is also one of only three surviving railroad depots from the Civil War in Florida.  (The other two are in Tallahassee and Gainesville.)  The depot once served as a hub for transportation and trade and was used by Confederate soldiers for military purposes during the war.

You can only imagine this little depot in its heyday and the stories that unfolded on the station’s platform.

The old brick building has stood up against the measure of time and is now used as the town’s post office.  You can find it at the intersection of Highways 59 and 158.

McAlpin, Florida

After leaving Lloyd, we continued our back roads journey, weaving our way around to U.S. Highway 129, stopping just south of Live Oak in the unincorporated town of McAlpin.

McAlpin, settled in 1882, was named for Daniel M. McAlpin, who had been the owner of the Bulletin (forerunner to the Suwannee Democrat), station master at the railroad, tax assessor, and representative to the Florida legislature (1875).

I must admit, though, what caught my eye the numerous times driving through McAlpin, was the old Speed gas station sign. Weathered and faded, it stands next to an old abandoned store, reminiscent of a part of “old Florida” where family-owned stores and filling stations were part of the booming landscape of the time.

A great place to read up on the history of McAlpin is the group’s Facebook page, McAlpin Florida History.

O’Brien, Florida

About seven miles south of McAlpin on 129 is the small town of O’Brien.  Established in 1880 as Obrine, its name changed to Obrine Station and finally O’Brien.  Upon driving into town, one of the first things to see is a brightly colored rooster perched atop the O’Brien Feed Depot and Hardware Store.

The charm and history don’t stop there.  Just a street to the west of 129 off County Road 349 is a row of old storefronts, one of which is still in use, the Village Emporium.  The shop wasn’t open when we passed through, but it’s definitely on the list of places to revisit as it is said to have its own history. Several other vacant buildings line the small dirt road.

Just past the row of old stores sits another old gem, an old wooden structure with boarded up windows and a tree that has become a part of the structure itself.

Back across 129 going west on CR 349, is another of those back roads you must take the time to enjoy.  It’s a curvy little road that holds a pleasant surprise – if you look for it.  Not easily visible from the road, back among the pine trees, is an old wood-frame house.  Its windows seem to be peering out from between the rows of trees as if they are eyes looking out from the past trying to get a glimpse into the future.

There are plenty of other small towns in North Central Florida to explore, each with their own unique features.  Although each one has its own history to tell, sometimes it’s the little oddities or the hidden treasures among the trees that make it unique.  Dare to venture off the well-traveled highways onto the county roads that lead you straight into Florida history at its finest.

FM Notes:  Here are a few other old towns you might want to read about:

DeLand

Monticello

Lake Placid

Micanopy

Wood and Swink General Store in Evinston

McIntosh

Museum of Florida History

What’s the saying about “the best-laid plans?”  On occasion, those plans for a day of “celebrating all things Florida” are impacted for one reason or another.  The day we loaded up and headed towards the St. Marks Lighthouse in Wakulla County, Mother Nature had a different idea.  As the skies turned gray and it was obvious we were heading into rain, we went on to Plan B: The Museum of Florida History in Tallahassee.

Not all museums are child-friendly, but the Museum of Florida History is. Our group included my grandchildren, ages six months, three and five.  Obviously, the two older ones were the ones we had to keep interested – and from the moment we arrived, they were!

Exhibits

Just inside the door, visitors are greeted by a mastodon, found in Wakulla Springs and one of the original exhibits from the Museum’s opening in 1977.

Mastodon found in Wakulla Springs

The Museum houses four permanent exhibits: Forever Changed: La Florida 1513 – 1821, Florida in the Civil War, World War II and Naval Ships Named Florida. Colorful displays, informational panels, and replicas of Spanish ships provide visitors with a “walk through time.”

In addition to the exhibits themselves, there are more than 45,700 artifacts on display throughout the museum.  Military artifacts from the Civil War and World War II are featured prominently in the Museum, as well as jewelry and gold coins.

Hands-On Displays

Many of the exhibits also offer opportunities to interact with Florida history – whether it’s picking up a six-pound shot from an iron cannon on a Spanish merchant vessel…

Or taking the helm of a river boat.

And for the older visitors, knot tying is a skill you can practice on board the Spanish ship.

Florida history truly comes to life for visitors of all ages with these fun displays.

Grandma’s Attic

One of the favorite hands-on exhibits is Grandma’s Attic.  Imagine what it was like to walk up the stairs to the attic and finding a treasure trove of things to play with.  That’s how this exhibit is set up – housing all those things Grandma didn’t want to get rid of.  Games, clothes, and an old stove are just a few of the items to entertain visitors.  And it’s not just for the little tykes.  There is something in this attic people of all ages can remember.

Temporary Exhibits

Besides the permanent displays, the Museum houses temporary exhibits.  The current exhibit (through July 23, 2017) is Beaches, Creatures and Cowboys: Florida Movie Posters.  Representing films in Florida from the 1920s to the present, there are nearly 50 movie posters and other advertising memorabilia on display.

It’s fun to see how many of them you knew were filmed in Florida, like Apollo 13 or The Yearling, but, did you know Edward Scissorhands also has a Florida tie?  You’ll even see a poster for Creature from the Black Lagoon, filmed in nearby Wakulla Springs.

Other Things to See

There is so much more to see at the Museum than just these exhibits. The Museum houses a complete collection of art from each of the 26 Florida Highwaymen, a group of African American artists who traveled the highways of south Florida selling their paintings in the 1960s and 1970s.

Even after you leave the building, the exhibits continue.  Just outside the Museum is Florida’s World War II Monument. Completed in 2004, it is dedicated to the 248,000 Floridians who served in the Armed Services during the war, including the 4,600 who paid the ultimate sacrifice.  The centerpiece of the memorial is a replica of Florida’s pillar at the National World War II Memorial in Washington, D.C.

The monument sits at the end of a path lined with markers for each of the state’s 67 counties and provides local connections and reverence for the war effort.

 

FM Notes

The Museum of Florida History is open Monday – Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Sunday and holidays from Noon to 4:30 p.m.  Admission is free.  It’s a great place to spend the day – whether to get in out of the heat or in out of the Florida rain.

The Athens of Florida: DeLand

Brief History of DeLand

DeLand’s rich history goes back to when the area was known as Persimmon Hollow and was only accessible by steamboat along the St. John’s River.  Captain John Rich built a log cabin there in 1874, then two years later, in 1876, Henry A. DeLand visited his brother-in-law who lived in Persimmon Hollow.  DeLand liked it so much he purchased a $1,000 plot of land with the idea of developing the area.  He offered settlers purchasing the property a chance to sell it back to him within a two-year period.  DeLand lived up to his word after a freeze destroyed all of their crops and they could no longer stay there.  He bought back all the land.

“Henry’s Vision”

DeLand is also responsible for the city’s nickname “The Athens of Florida.”  Although he was never a full-time resident of the state, he wanted the city to become a place of culture, education and beauty like Athens, Greece.

Stetson University

Stetson University, Florida’s oldest private college, also plays a major role in the city’s history.  Stetson sits on about 160 acres of land in the heart of DeLand.  Founded in 1883 as DeLand University, its name was changed to Stetson University in 1889 in honor of John B. Stetson, a hat manufacturer who, along with Henry DeLand (founder of the city), was one of the founding trustees of the university.

DeLand Hall

Beautiful brick buildings are part of the university’s landscape.  One of those buildings, Elizabeth Hall, was built in 1885 and sits on North Woodland Boulevard.  Elizabeth Hall and other buildings like it are the reasons the university is on the National Register of Historic Places for the state’s “oldest collection of education-related buildings.”

Elizabeth Hall, built 1885

This picturesque campus has been ranked as the 5th best regional university in the South in the 2017 U.S. News and World Report’s guide to America’s Best Colleges.

Stetson Mansion

When planning for this day trip to DeLand, I knew I also wanted to see the Stetson Mansion, but driving up to the entrance, the gate was closed and a sign indicated the start time of the next tour.   Reservations for the tours are required, which means I should have done a little more research! Nevertheless, looking through the gate at this massive mansion, it’s easy to understand why it is Florida’s first luxury estate.

The mansion is referred to as “The House that Hats Built” and served as the winter home for John B. Stetson for 20 years.  Built in 1886, the mansion is filled with intricate carvings, parquet floors and 10,000 panes of antique window glass. It is also one of the first homes in the world with electricity, thanks to the friendship between Stetson and Thomas Edison.  Although it is now a private residence, year-round tours are still offered with special tours taking place during the Christmas holidays.

Athens Theatre

It’s only fitting that the city known as The Athens of Florida is home to its own Athens Theatre.  The theatre is in Historic Downtown DeLand at the end of Indiana Avenue along North Florida Avenue.  The theatre opened its doors in 1922 and was dubbed “Florida’s Handsomest Theatre.”  The theatre has evolved over the years from vaudeville acts to a movie theatre to a dinner theatre.  It closed its doors in the early 1990s but became the focus of the MainStreet DeLand Association which recognized the role it plays in the history of the city.  It is now owned by a non-profit theatre company and produces six Broadway caliber shows per year.  The Athens Theatre Youth Company also uses the facility to educate the youth about the performing arts.

The DeLand Mural Walk

Another must-see in DeLand is the city’s Mural Walk.  With 12 official murals painted on the sides of buildings around town, it is part of the Florida Mural Trail.  Each mural offers its own story about the history of Deland and range from smaller paintings, like “Gibbs Clothing Store”

…to the city’s longest mural at Painter’s Pond Park.  At 100 feet long, it shows what train passengers would see as they were riding through DeLand in the early 1900s.

In addition to the “official” murals, there are several others painted around town that are worth seeing.  The “Wings” painting along Pill Alley is one of those that visitors seek out, perhaps in an effort to earn their own wings.

Shopping and Dining in DeLand

The streets of DeLand are filled with stores, restaurants, and drinking establishments. Music stores offer up vinyl records of some of the old favorites, while antique stores provide treasure hunters plenty of opportunities to plunder.

Three-story antique store. A dream come true!

Hometown breweries like Persimmon Hollow Brewing Company and outdoor spaces like DaVinci Gardens give patrons unique experiences to relax and unwind.

On the outside looking in

Fun during the day, but buzzing at night

Other Things to See in DeLand

If these things aren’t enough to keep a person busy, there are a couple of other opportunities to take in the city of DeLand.  Stop by the old courthouse and gaze up at the amazing architecture, or visit the Chess Park adjacent to the courthouse.  Chess pieces are not provided.

With so much to see and do in DeLand, it’s best to do a little research beforehand.  But it’s definitely a place to go to continue “celebrating all things Florida.”

Fort Desoto Park: Pinellas County

With more than 660 miles of beaches in Florida, there are plenty of places to throw down a beach blanket and put your toes in the sand.  When you’re looking around for that perfect spot, don’t forget to check some of the county parks – there are plenty of hidden treasures where you least expect them.  One of those gems, located along Florida’s Sun Coast, is Fort Desoto Park near St. Petersburg and the Sunshine Skyway Bridge.

The Park

Fort Desoto Park is the largest of the Pinellas County Parks with 1,136 acres encompassing five keys: Mullet Key, Madelaine Key, Bonne Fortune Key, St. Christopher Key, and St. Jean Key.  A drive around the park reveals an abundance of native plants, mangroves, wetlands and hundreds of species of birds.   The park is a popular destination for locals and tourists, with more than 2.5 million visitors a year.

The Fort 

The history of Fort Desoto dates back to 1,000 AD with the Tocobaga Indians and includes explorations by Spaniards, including Hernando DeSoto, in the 1500s. Perhaps the history it is most widely known for is its use during war time.  In the mid-1800s it was determined the area would make a good coastal defense area. Although there was not an actual fort, a blockade was set up during the Civil War by Union troops between Egmont and Mullet Key.  Confederate soldiers were spotted easily by troops at the top of the Egmont Key Lighthouse.

It wasn’t until 1898 and the Spanish American War, that construction of the fort began on the island.  The first phase, which took six months to complete, included a wharf out into Tampa Bay, as well as an office, mess hall and quarters for the workmen. Eight months later, the Mortar Battery was completed – under budget.

It’s interesting to note Fort DeSoto was never the site of a major battle and the mortars were never used in combat.  However, walking through the fort and touching the massive weapons causes you to only imagine what it would have been like for the troops stationed there, keeping watch and fighting the elements.  Make sure to read up on the history on display inside the fort.

The Beach and Pier

Aside from the history associated with Fort DeSoto, the park offers up beautiful beaches.  There are about seven miles of the park along the water, and three miles of that includes white sandy beaches.  Our latest visit took us to  North Beach where beach umbrellas dotted the shoreline and beach goers set up residence for the day.  The water was clear and calm, and the ocean floor was smooth – the perfect backdrop for a refreshing and relaxing day.

If you are more into fishing than sunbathing, there are also two piers at the park, where anglers of all ages cast their lines or their nets. Baitfish can be seen under the piers along with dolphins playing in the water.

A friendly word of caution: Untended fish left on the cleaning tables are fair game!

Activities

Besides the fort, the park offers numerous other amenities, from camping to boating and kayaking, to picnicking and hiking.  A ferry service also runs to Egmont Key, but it’s advised you make reservations before the day of your visit.  It takes about half an hour for the ferry ride over to the island but once there, visitors are met with great shelling and swimming.  There’s also another fort to explore on Egmont Key as well as a large population of gopher tortoises.

Whatever you choose to do, there are plenty of parking spaces, but arriving early guarantees a spot. The cost to get into the park is $5.00 per car.  It is well worth the price and the trip!

 

Fort Christmas Historical Park

The last time I visited Fort Christmas in Orange County was when my children were in elementary school and that was – well, let’s just say that was a long time ago.  As with all historical places, I have found I appreciate them more the older I get.

Fort Christmas Historical Park is located on Highway 50 between Orlando and Titusville.  It sits about two miles off 50 on County Road 420, or as the locals call it, Fort Christmas Road.  The park takes up 25 acres on the west side of the road and 119 on the east.  There is a lot to see and do at the park, so plan on staying awhile.

Replica of Fort Christmas 

Perhaps the centerpiece of the park is the full-size replica of Fort Christmas. The original fort was just a short distance away and was one of several posts built to store supplies for troops on their way south for fighting in the Second Seminole War.  The original fort was established December 25, 1837 and was abandoned less than four months later. The name lived on, however, as it became the name of the town of Christmas.

Entrance to replica of Fort Christmas

Just inside the entrance is the first of two blockhouses which served as lookouts, the general’s headquarters, and protection of the troops.  The second of the blockhouses sits on the opposite corner of the fort.

Building to the right of the entrance is one of two blockhouses.

These two structures now serve as museums and house artifacts of the time – from photos of prominent families to weaponry to  saddles, cowboy hats and other ranching necessities.

Also inside the stockade is a storehouse for holding the army rations and supplies as well as food staples. A powder magazine below ground level (for safety purposes) provides visitors with a look at how ammunition was stored.

Living History Settlement

A few steps away from the fort is the entrance to the village.  Imagine life in the late 1800s and early 1900s. No air conditioning, no inside plumbing.  One-room houses were the norm, although some were added onto over time for growing families.

The Yates House

Walking into any of these structures reminds you of how simple yet how tough life was at the turn of the century.  Netting around the beds.  Handmade quilts.  Living spaces with fireplaces.

Interior of one of the homes. Notice the netting over the beds and the cracks between the wood.

Living rooms served as family spaces.

Some of these houses also serve as exhibits.  The Simmons III Home also serves as the exhibit for the Fort Christmas Post Office…

While the Ranching Exhibit is housed inside the Beehead Ranch House.

Notice all of the brands on the hide on the floor

Other Historical Structures

As a former teacher, it’s always interesting to see how schools were once operated.  Stepping inside the Union School provided a look into a 1907 classroom. Named for the way it “united” several of the small schools in the area operated by families into one location, Union School was once just a one-room schoolhouse.

The Union School

An addition of a small room in the back of the school was made in the 1920s.  The desks are set in neat rows with reading books of various grade levels set on top of them.

Original room of the school

1920s addition

A lunchroom added in 1932 now serves as a kitchen exhibit for those visiting the park.

Other structures include the Partin Home – built in 1953 complete with indoor plumbing and electricity.  It is a far cry from their first home built 40 years before.  Their ‘50s barn is also adjacent to the house.

Partin Home

Recreational Amenities

The park provides visitors with other opportunities for fun and family time.  Take along your basketball or tennis rackets and have some friendly competition on the courts.  There’s also a playground, a 1920’s softball field and rentable pavilions where you can enjoy your lunches.

Whatever you do during your visit to the park, it’s sure to be both educational and fun.  The park is open during the summer from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. and in the winter from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.  Hours for the museum and homes are Tuesday through Sunday, from 9:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m.

 

Monticello, Florida

For years, I have been driving Interstate 10 west to Tallahassee either as a student at Florida State University or the parent of two daughters at FSU. In all of those years, I rarely ventured off the main highway to visit any of the smaller towns. However, now that I have moved to Tallahassee, Monticello is becoming one of my favorite small Florida towns.

First, let me say, the drive into Monticello on U.S. Highway 90 will more than likely be full of color in the coming month, as crepe myrtles lined both sides of the road. That in itself would be worth the drive, but there is much more to this charming town.

Jefferson County Courthouse

Monticello is the county seat of Jefferson County, named after Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States and author of the Declaration of Independence. If you know history, you might know Jefferson’s home in Virginia also bore the name Monticello. The town was named after that home and serves as the hub of the county. The Jefferson County Courthouse sits in the center of town and was built in 1909. The Latin phrase “Suum Cuique”, can be seen above its doors, meaning “to each his own” or “may all get their due.”

Walking and Driving Tour of Monticello

Monticello is known for its historic buildings. If you want to get a glimpse of them, all you have to do is to take a drive off the main highway through town and meander through the side streets.  In all, there are more than 600 buildings in the area that were built before 1920. A walking and driving tour has been established to lead visitors to 26 of those structures.

Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce

Make sure to stop at the Chamber of Commerce on the way in to pick up a brochure showing the route along with a brief history of those buildings.

Tour brochures can be picked up at the Chamber of Commerce

The Avera-Clarke House was built in 1890 by state legislator Thomas L. Clarke.  It sits on the corner of U.S. 90 and Pine Street and now serves as a bed and breakfast. With its red shutters and white picket fence, the building itself seems to say “welcome home.”

Avera-Clarke House in Monticello

Other homes in Monticello represent those typical of the Old South.

Budd-Pafford House (1833)

Monticello Opera House

One of the primary historic structures is The Monticello Opera House, built in 1890 by businessman John H. Perkins, in what is known as the Perkins Block. Sitting across from the courthouse, it still serves as a cultural and arts center for the area.  The second floor of the building houses the theatre itself, which is often said to have nearly perfect acoustics.  Local companies regularly put on musical and theatrical shows, as well as other musical groups. (Check the calendar of events for dates and times.)

Monticello Opera House | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shopping and Other Activities in Monticello

We visited on a Sunday, and other than church activities, the streets of Monticello were relatively empty. The shops were closed, but the town still showed off its charm with antique stores, restaurants and other locally owned businesses.

 

As is the case with small towns, Monticello also lays claim to other activities. The second weekend in May is the Southern Music Rising Festival featuring musicians from all over the country. They set up in the Opera House and on the porches of the houses throughout downtown to entertain visitors with old time music. The town also comes to life during the third weekend in June with the Jefferson County Watermelon Festival.

And if you are into haunted ghost tours, Monticello is known as the “South’s Most Haunted Small Town.” Historic Monticello Ghost Tours are held through September and cemetery scavenger hunts are also offered through reservations.

Monticello is a small town with a big heart and a big history.  This trip definitely taught me a lesson: make it a point to get off the main highways and visit some of the smaller towns in the state. Those towns are where you will experience the “real Florida.”

Town of Murals: Lake Placid, Florida

A sign along Highway 27 at the edge of Lake Placid in Highlands County reads, “Town of Murals.”  Unless you pay attention to the sign or exit on one of the town’s main roads, you might miss what has become a vital part of the town and its history.

Having grown up less than 30 minutes from Lake Placid, I spent many summers at Lake June.  The murals weren’t part of the town then, but it was definitely a place that felt inviting and friendly.  Now that I’ve had a chance to go back and see these murals for myself, I am even more enchanted with this town.


Lake Placid is like any other little town: a farmer’s market, a main street, quaint shops, the locals milling about on a Sunday afternoon. What sets this apart is just what the sign says – murals.  There are nearly 50 of them painted on the sides of buildings around town.  Each one depicts something different about the history of Lake Placid, its culture or some of its prominent citizens.

“Captain” T. W. Webb
Richard Archbold
Early Physicians
Eddie Mae Henderson
Dr. Charles Akes
Dr. Melvil Dewey

This was all the brainchild of Harriet and Bob Porter, themselves depicted on the front of the Chamber of Commerce building.  Harriet says she and her husband got the idea from an impromptu stop in Chemainus, Vancouver Island, British Columbia during a motorcycle trip to Alaska.

“We found a little sign by the side of the road that said, ‘The Little Town that Did.’  We decided to see what they did,” Harriet says, “and we saw 32 beautiful larger than life murals that depicted the history of their town.”

That was the beginning of the Lake Placid Mural Society.

“Town of Murals – How it All Began” featuring Bob and Harriet Porter

The Murals

“Tea at Southwinds” Lake Placid’s first mural by Thomas Freeman in 1993

One of the favorite murals around town is the “Cracker Trail Cattle Drive,” taking up the entire side of the old Winn Dixie on the corner of Highway 27 and Route 621 East. The 175 feet wide mural depicts the importance and magnitude of the cattle industry in Florida, and in Lake Placid in particular.  The cattle are all marked with registered brands belonging to Highlands County cattlemen.  Standing in front of this massive mural, you can almost feel the pounding of their hooves as they are being driven out of town.

“Cracker Trail Cattle Drive” by Keith Goodson

It took about six months to paint the mural 1994 by artist Keith Goodson.  Since that time, it’s been repainted at least three times to maintain its beauty – something that is done with all of the murals around town.  The only thing missing from this mural currently is the sound of the cattle mooing which came to an end when the building was vacated and the electricity turned off.

Another mural in town, “The Lost Bear Cub,” also features sound.  It was painted  in 1997 by Terry Smith on the side of a barber shop on East Interlake Boulevard.  Stop by and listen to the mama bear and her cub.

The Artists

Most of the murals were painted by single artists, although there are some that involved the collaboration of two artists – depending on their skill sets.

Part of “Birding” by Thomas Brooks and Terry Smith

“They all have their specialties,” Harriet says. “Some are better at wildlife than others.  Some are better at painting people. This is how we’ve chosen through the years – by what their talents are and what is required in the mural.”

“Caladium Fields” by Thomas Freeman

There has never been a competition or a call put out for the artists.  They were chosen through connections with the Caladium Arts and Crafts Co-op, which Harriet also began with her husband.

The Process

Not just any mural can be painted on the side of a building.  Everything is related to Lake Placid.  The history is researched and provided to an artist, who in turn interprets the information in their own way.  A full-color rendering is provided to the Mural Society before any paint can go on the wall.  Once approved, the painting begins.

All of the original renderings hang inside the Chamber of Commerce and are on display during business hours.

Something for Everyone

“The Murals of Lake Placid” guide book will make your visit complete and can be purchased at the Chamber or any number of businesses in town.  The guide includes information about the mural, the artist and even offers an interactive activity for each of them.

If you or your children like to find hidden pictures, the murals have that to offer as well.  Each of them has something either hidden or missing and the guide book tells you what to look for in each mural.

Portion of “Our Citrus Heritage.” There are four hidden oranges with smiley faces in this mural.  

“Bassin'” Can you find what’s missing?

The mural that started the interactive activities was another of the town’s favorites, “Bassin’” another mural painted by Keith Goodson.  Harriet says when Goodson was finishing up he told her he didn’t think he could put another brush load of paint on the mural.  About two weeks after the scaffolding was removed, a woman told Harriet the artist forgot something.

“I said, ‘forgot?” Harriet remembers, and rushed over to look at it.  “Sure enough, he had.”

Goodson offered to go back and finish it, but Harriet decided against it and made that a regular feature of all murals from that day on.

Response to the Murals

The murals have become an important part of Lake Placid, helping them win the distinction of “America’s Most Interesting Town” in 2013 by the Reader’s Digest. Tourism has seen an increase, which means restaurants and stores benefit from the extra people in town.  More than 150 cities and towns across the United States and Canada have reached out to ask how to start their own mural project.  The result of that is the Florida Mural Trail, comprised of about a dozen other towns showcasing their own artwork.

“America’s Most Interesting Town”

More to Offer

You can easily spend the day in Lake Placid, visiting the murals and reading about their history.  Many of the murals are grouped together, which makes it easy to park the car and walk.  No need to worry about getting in the way of the locals when you play tourist.  They’ll just smile or wave when you stop to take pictures.

“Birding” is located in the Lake Placid Noon Rotary Park along with “Layers of Time”

Of course there is much more to Lake Placid than just the murals, but you’ll have to visit for yourself to find the other hidden gems in this town with “history all around.”

 

FM Footnote:  Selecting mural photographs to share in this post was difficult, so don’t be surprised if there is another post with more photos and more about what Lake Placid has to offer.  In the meantime, please visit this little town (or any of the other towns on the Florida Mural Trail) and see up close the amazing talent and ideas that brought this project to fruition.

Paddlewheelers and the St. Johns River

If you’ve ever driven over the St. Johns River Bridge on Interstate 4 in Sanford, chances are you have caught a glimpse of the Barbara-Lee, a red and white sternwheeler that has set its course to revive the tradition of the ships that once travelled up and down the river.

The Barbara-Lee

History on the River

The St. Johns has been a major waterway for more than 500 years, and lays claim to an abundance of Florida history. It was travelled by the Europeans, the Spanish, and the French, whether it was for exploration or to escape religious persecution. It was used to document the plants and animals living along the river.  After originally travelling the St. Johns with his father in 1765, botanist William Bartram returned to the river in 1774 to take a closer look at life along the St. Johns.  Skip ahead to the 1830s, when the steamboat George Washington became the first to regularly sail the river.  Then, during the Civil War, the river was ruled by the Union Navy. After the war, the river became a tourist destination as well as a freight route. In the late 1800s, 150 steamships operated on the St. Johns River, and according to the St. Johns Rivership website, that was “more than any river south of the Hudson River in New York,” carrying everything from passengers to produce and citrus fruit.

The Barbara-Lee

The Barbara-Lee was built in 1986 and carries on the tradition of sternwheelers that have been sailing along the river for hundreds of years.  She had her inaugural cruise in 2012 and is the only authentic sternwheeler you will see on the St. Johns River.  The 105 foot boat provides a smooth, leisurely trip, allowing riders the opportunity to see the “real” Florida.

We boarded Barbara-Lee for a Saturday dinner cruise and were treated to three hours of a fun Florida experience, from a delicious dinner inside overlooking the massive wooden paddle wheel, to a beautiful sunset from the Captain’s Deck.

Set up for dinner

A Florida sunset on the St. Johns River

The air was cool and the only sound that could be heard was the splashing of the water as the paddle wheel turned. While the evening cruise provided magnificent views of the stars and the lights along the shore in Sanford, you can only imagine what you would see during a daytime cruise.

Looking back at Sanford

Operated by St. Johns Rivership Co., Barbara-Lee runs daily lunch cruises from Wednesday through Sunday, along with dinner cruises on Saturday.  There are five decks on the boat, ample room to spread out to enjoy the views and the cruise. Guests are advised to make reservations ahead of time.

A great place to relax

If you’re looking for a relaxing way to explore Florida, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, it just may be time to chart your course with the Barbara-Lee and enjoy a leisurely tour of one of the state’s historic rivers.

Cruising the St. Johns River