Floridiana Magazine

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High Springs – Friendliest Small Town in Florida

If you’ve ever watched Hallmark Christmas movies, you have no doubt seen the small towns that serve as the settings for the storylines.  Picturesque downtowns, storied pasts, rural lifestyles, and laidback atmospheres.  It is that type of vibe that is exhibited in many of  small Florida towns – including High Springs.  Voted as the “Friendliest Small Town in Florida,” High Springs is the epitome of small-town life, and a stop on one of our latest excursions.

High Springs – A History Built on the Rails  

To put it simply, High Springs is a town that the railroad industry built.  The first railroad company to arrive in High Springs was the Savannah, Florida and Western Railroad in 1884, but it wasn’t until 1895 and the arrival of the Plant System Railroad Line (later called the Atlantic Coast Line) that High Springs became an important railroad center. The Plant System chose High Springs as its division headquarters and the town boomed. Early lines through High Springs connected Live Oak with Gainesville, and then High Springs to Port Tampa.  Railyards, workshops and a roundhouse were built, along with houses and a hospital for the workers who called High Springs home.

Even though most of the railroad buildings have disappeared, you can still catch a glimpse of rail history in High Springs. The original passenger depot, built in 1910, sits along NE Railroad Avenue and is all that remains of what was once a vast railroad complex. Even it is not in its original location. The building was moved to its current location and renovated in 1994, and now serves as the office to the Community Redevelopment Agency.

Another depot serves as the High Springs Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center and can be found along the old railroad bed at Railroad Avenue, one block south of Main Street.  The office is typically open Monday through Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and is a good place to stop for information if you are there during the week.

Still another sign of the railroad industry’s influence on the community is an Atlantic Coast Line red caboose on display behind City Hall.

The town’s standing as a rail center began to fade after World War II when diesel engines took the place of steam locomotives.

An historical marker in High Springs provides a look into the early days in High Springs.  Over the years, the town had several names (Santaffey, Santa Fe, Fairmont and Orion) before it changed for good to High Springs in 1884.  It was incorporated just eight years later.

Gateway to the Springs

In addition to its history with the railroad, High Springs is a destination for outdoor enthusiasts. Situated in the heart of North Florida’s famous spring country, it is within driving distance of numerous springs and state parks and lives up to its motto “Enjoy Our Good Nature!”  A mural of nearby springs can be seen on the exterior of the old Adventure Outpost which once had a storefront in town. Gilchrist Blue Springs State Park, Ichetucknee Springs State Park, Poe Springs Park and Ginnie Springs all provide kayaking and canoeing experiences, as well as hiking opportunities.  Other smaller springs also dot the landscape.

One of our favorite locations is O’Leno State Park, about six miles north of High Springs along the banks of the Santa Fe River. O’Leno is one of Florida’s first state parks, developed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930s. You can still walk across the original suspension bridge built by the CCC to explore other parts of the park.  A hike through the park reveals an historic marker of Bellamy Road which was the first federally funded road in Florida.  You can also view levees and native plants along the trails.  An interesting feature of O’Leno is its distinction of the location where the Santa Fe River disappears underground. The river reemerges about three miles away in the River Rise State Preserve.  It is worth the hike back to where the river ends, both for the novelty and the beauty of the river.

Exploring Downtown

One of the highlights of our trips to High Springs has been the leisurely walks along downtown streets. From the intersection of Main Street and U.S. Highway 27, there are a couple of directions you can start your downtown exploration.  Rest assured, all roads lead to antique stores and specialty shops.

Places to Eat and Drink

As with all small towns, there are always a few eateries you need to visit.  Both of our trips have included meals at the Great Outdoors Restaurant in the old Opera House building. We’ve enjoyed the river ambiance inside during the warmer months and the outdoor patio and fireplace during the cooler months.

On our most recent visit to High Springs, the High Springs Brewing Company had just celebrated its grand opening. Located on NW 237th Street, the brewery is housed in an old welding shop and serves up its own craft beers, as well as other Florida brews.  Live entertainment, special events and a variety of food trucks provide a well-rounded experience, no matter when you go.

Murals

As we’ve traveled the state, we’ve noticed more and more murals popping up. High Springs is no exception. From a tribute to the railroad industry to a mural portraying the area’s springs, these paintings provide another glimpse into the town’s character.

Whether you plan to visit for the history, the shopping, or the outdoor adventures, High Springs is a great place to spend a relaxing day or even weekend.  Located about 20 miles northwest of Gainesville and about five miles west of Interstate 75 on Highway 441, it’s just far enough off the beaten path to offer that down-home vibe and prove why it has earned the title as the “Friendliest Small Town in Florida.”

After you view our slideshow below of more of our photos from our trip, be sure to leave us a comment about your favorite place in High Springs or give us a suggestion of another great Florida town to visit.

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A Visitor’s Guide to Devil’s Millhopper

Exploring Florida can take on many twists and turns, ups and downs.  For visitors to Devil’s Millhopper Geological State Park in Gainesville, that exploration literally takes you down to a sinkhole that has attracted curious individuals since the late 1800s.

What is Devil’s Millhopper?

Devil’s Millhopper, 120 feet deep and about 500 feet across, formed when the limestone underneath it collapsed.  More than 100 feet of geologic rock layers make it unique as it is one of the few places in Florida where they are exposed.  The further down you go into the sinkhole, the older the rocks.  Established as a state park in 1974, it was also named a National Natural Landmark in 1976.

Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

How Did Devil’s Millhopper Get its Name?

As is the case with other Florida locations, there are several tales told to explain how Devil’s Millhopper got its name. One says the devil kidnapped a Native American princess and created the sinkhole to trap her rescuers.  The other claims early visitors, who found bones and fossils at the bottom, believed animals and beasts went there to meet the devil.  In reality, it was named because of its shape – a funnel-like shape similar to one you find at the bottom of a grain hopper on a farm.

Visitor’s Center

You can learn more about the Millhopper inside the Visitor’s Center at the entrance to the park.  Make sure to stop, pick up a brochure about the sink, or ask the park ranger on duty any questions you might have.  Interactive exhibits inside provide more information about how it formed and what has been found at the bottom.

Visitor Center at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The Walk Down

Even though I lived in Gainesville about 30 years ago, I never made it to Devil’s Millhopper.  Now I know what I was missing.  A walk to the bottom takes you away from the noise of the city into a peaceful rainforest-like setting that offers picturesque views of ferns and other vegetation, along with small waterfalls and streams. On the day of our visit, those views included bright turquoise water and turtles sitting on old tree branches that had fallen into the water.  The water level in the sink is dependent on the amount of rainfall.

Sinkhole at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Turtle on log at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

At one time there were 232 stairs you would have to walk down to get to the sinkhole, but Hurricane Irma in 2017 caused extensive damage and the stairs had to be rebuilt.  Now there are 132 steps and they are relatively easy to manage.  Just remember, going back up is still a little tougher than going down.

Boardwalk leading to the sinkhole | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Hiking the Trail

Besides the stairs down to the sinkhole, there’s a hiking trail that takes you along the rim. Before Hurricane Irma, the trail was a complete loop around the top of the sink, taking you over a bridge that crosses a gully flowing into the sink.  Due to safety concerns, the bridge is currently closed, and your hike will have to be modified.  As you walk the trail, make sure to look all around you.  There are some amazing sites to be seen if you take the time.

Along the trail at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Visiting Basics

Devil’s Millhopper is part of the Florida State Parks System and is located off County Road 232 in northwest Gainesville.  Before Hurricane Irma, 60,000 people visited the park per year.  Without the steps down to the sink, that number decreased, but park officials are expecting it to go back up now that the new boardwalk is open.

The park is open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 Wednesday through Sunday and is closed Monday and Tuesday.  A $4.00 per vehicle fee is collected at a cash box at the entrance to the parking lot.  Of course, if you have an annual pass to the State Parks, you can write in your pass number on the envelope and the hang tag for your car and forego the charge.

Pack a lunch and a bottle or two of water, take your camera, and wear closed-toe shoes.  It’s definitely a trip worth taking.

Interesting Fact:  Construction on the new boardwalk had to be delayed a year because funds were diverted to parks devastated by Hurricane Michael (2018) in the Panhandle.  Those funds were reallocated for Devil’s Millhopper in 2019 with construction beginning in January and finishing in June.

 

Other Things to Do Nearby

If you are looking for other things to do while in Gainesville, here are a few of our favorites:

Dudley Farm Historic State Park –  Located in Newberry, this farm portrays life on a farm in the mid-to-late 1800s.

UF Bat Houses – Join others along Museum Road on the University of Florida campus for the nightly exodus of  400,000 bats.  The show starts about 15 to 20 minutes after sundown.

Sweetwater Wetlands Park – The park is a man-made habitat located on the north end of Paynes Prairie on Williston Road in Gainesville.  There are more than three and a half miles of easy trails on 125 acres, with amazing views of plants, animals, and more than 215 species of birds.  If you are lucky, you may get a chance to see the wild horses or the bison roaming the prairie.

 

Britton Hill, Florida’s Highest Point

When you think of a highest point in the United States, what comes to mind? Mt. McKinley in Alaska?  Mt. Mitchell in North Carolina?  What about Britton Hill?  If you’ve never heard of Britton Hill, make sure you put it on your list of places to visit in Florida.  Why?  It just so happens to be the highest point in the Sunshine State.

Britton Hill is located at Lakewood Park just inside the state line that divides Walton County in Florida from Alabama.  It got its name from a former lumber mill baron, William Henry Britton who developed the area in the early 1900s.  The highest point is actually more of a plateau, about 900 feet by 400 feet.  At a staggering 345 feet, this peak offers a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside and also carries the honor of being the lowest high point in the U.S.

A monument marking this dubious distinction sits steps from the parking lot.  To get a glimpse of the monument or take a selfie next to it, you won’t even have to break a sweat.  However, if you do find yourself short-winded, there is a bench by the monument so you can rest a little.

A few Florida comparisons

Just how high is 345 feet?  If you are familiar with Florida “landmarks,” here are a few comparisons to consider:

  • The Majesty Building (aka the I-4 Eye Sore) is 307 feet tall.
  • The Vehicle Assembly Building (VAB) at Kennedy Space Center is 525 feet.
  • Chinsegut Hill in Hernando County, just north of Brooksville, is 269 feet.

A few U.S. comparisons

Mt. McKinley in Denali, Alaska is the highest point in the United States at 20,237 feet.  Other “low” high points include:

  • Delaware – Ebright Azimuth at 448 feet
  • Louisiana – Driskell Mountain at 535 feet
  • Mississippi – Woodall Mountain at 806 feet
  • Rhode Island – Jerimoth Hill at 812 feet

While Britton Hill may not seem like a hiker’s dream, it is actually an internationally-known must-do peak.  A group of mountain climbers known as the Highpointers Club, attempt to climb the highest point in each of the lower 48 states.  So far, about 500 of them have achieved that feat – which includes “climbing” Britton Hill.

Other things to do

If the climb to the top doesn’t wear you out, there are hiking trails at the park which offer an easy walk through the small hardwood forest and are all less than a mile in length. Lakewood Park also offers a picnic area and a restroom.

How to get there

Britton Hill is located in the Florida panhandle.  If you’re out driving, take Interstate 10 to Exit 85 – US 331/SR 83 toward DeFuniak Springs.  Follow 331 to County Road 285.  Turn north onto CR 285 and go about three miles.  Britton Hill will be on the left.

Make sure to take your camera and document your climb!

Boyett’s Grove and Citrus Attraction

What started as a fruit stand more than 55 years ago, has evolved into a classic Florida roadside attraction that still draws visitors today.  Located on the top of a hill in Brooksville, Boyett’s Grove and Citrus Attraction not only offers delicious citrus fruit, but also a nostalgic look at Florida oddities, along with a walk on the wild side.

From the outside, Boyett’s Citrus Attraction looks like any other old Florida kitschy gift shop.  A tree face welcomes you with a smile and colorful cheesy paintings of animals adorn the exterior walls.  The quirkiness doesn’t end there.  Once you step inside, you are in for a big surprise!  Boyett’s is filled with everything “touristy” you can imagine, from the typical shell gift items to t-shirts and other Florida souvenirs.

The Store

Speaking from experience, it’s difficult to know which way to go once you’re inside the store.  Souvenirs to the left; a tribute to the King of Rock n Roll straight ahead; and a saloon to the right.

Just when you think you are at the end of an exhibit, you round another corner and there is more.  Make sure you take your time through the store, as you are likely to find some old treasures you haven’t seen in a while.  Not to mention an ice cream parlor that offers 24 flavors!

Wildlife Park

A big part of this attraction is the Wildlife Park. To get outside, stop by the register at the back of the store to purchase your tickets and a bag of food for a more interactive experience.  While you are making your way through the park, stop and say hello to Wally, the dromedary camel.  Use the map provided to you or wander on your own.  No matter which way you go, you are sure to see Wally and other animals, like Stripes the Zebra, or any of the other goats, sheep, geese, and monkeys. Concrete pathways wind through another part of the park and take you by deer and pigs and Elvis the alligator.

Other Things to See

The admission to the wildlife tour also includes the aviary and the dinosaur cave.  In the aviary walk through and get closeup views of tropical birds.

The dinosaur cave is sure to please the young dinosaur lovers in your family. Get next to a T-rex.  Look up for the pterodactyls and don’t forget to say hi to Chompers – if you dare get close enough!

For an additional charge, there is also a mini golf course and the DinoMight Gold Mine.

Oranges!

Before Boyett’s became a tourist attraction, it was a citrus stand, where visitors could walk through the orange grove. Even with the zoo and other features, citrus growing and shipping remain the focus of Boyett’s. During citrus season, visitors can watch the operation in motion, from the washing to the packing, all on a machine that was built in the 40s.

History of the “Attraction”

Folks in citrus know the industry peaks at certain times of the year. Because of a few years of freezes and to combat the slow summer months, Boyett’s decided to make additions to the business.  The gift shop was added in 1975 and about 10 years later, they started taking in donated and rescue animals.  Even if you walk through the entire attraction, you will probably miss something here and there.

Location and Hours

Boyett’s is located between Brooksville and I-75 on Spring Lake Highway and is open Monday through Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. There is no charge to look around inside the store, but if you want to venture out into the wildlife park, mini golf, dinosaur cave or aviary, you will have to pay.  There are a variety of price packages to choose from.

Just remember, if you plan to take that walk on the wild side, you should plan on two hours or so to get through it all.

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Caladium Festival Lake Placid, Florida

Florida is home to many festivals, ranging from the absurd to the logical.  By definition, festivals celebrate something unique about a community or its culture.  For the central Florida town of Lake Placid, that uniqueness is its designation as “Caladium Capital of the World” and 2018 marked its celebration of the 28th Caladium Festival.

History of the Caladium Festival

The idea for the Caladium Festival came from the Highlands County Tourist Development Commission as a way to promote the industry and, at the same time, create an event to bring visitors into town.  With the help of Carolyn Phypers of Happiness Farms and Dot Bates of Bates Sons and Daughters Caladiums, the first festival was held in 1990 at the warehouse at Happiness Farms.  Small in scale and mostly informational, it involved a steak dinner cooked by the Highlands County Cattlemen and served by the Cattlewomen, industry talk by caladium growers, and bus tours to the fields.

After that first festival, Carolyn, Dot and their families expanded on the event by moving it downtown to Stuart Park and added in arts and crafts, entertainment and food vendors.  From its first year with about 100 visitors, the event has grown to tens of thousands.

The Caladium Festival Today

Happiness Farms and Bates Sons and Daughters both continue to play a major role in the Caladium Festival.  Bates sells potted plants, while Happiness offers up bags or boxes of bulbs.  What once sold out on the second day of the festival is now selling out on day one.  Folks have found out if they come early, they are sure they get their preferred plants. Both growers donate their net proceeds to the Lake Placid Chamber of Commerce to continue funding the festival.

Bus Tours of Caladium Fields

To get an up-close view of the caladium fields, bus tours are offered at regular intervals throughout the festival. (We might also add the buses are air-conditioned!)  The tours, led by local growers, offer up a lively discussion of the industry as well as question and answer sessions on a wide range of topics.  Out the bus windows, rows upon rows, acres upon acres, showcase a kaleidoscope of colors.

 

After a drive by the fields, the bus makes a stop in one of Lake Placid’s neighborhoods to see a home landscaped with caladiums.  At one time, entire neighborhoods would get involved with planting caladiums.  They were given the bulbs free of charge if they would plant them in time for the festival. These plants, with their heart-shaped leaves and vibrant colors, are easy to grow and brighten any yard.

 

These bus tours are very popular and certain times often sell out, so visitors are advised to buy tickets in advance of the show to secure a seat.

While the caladiums are the stars of the show, there is so much more to the Caladium Festival.  A walk along Interlake Boulevard or any of the side streets surrounding Stuart Park provides a glimpse at booths featuring arts and crafts, plants, and other specialty items.  In addition, there is also a variety of food vendors and entertainment acts.

Clowns

In a community known for its clown college, it’s also a given that Toby’s Clowns will be on hand to offer up their skills of face painting and balloon artistry, and at the same time, a lot of smiles to kids of all ages.

Car Show

For those who are interested in cars and motorcycles, the Caladium Car and Bike Show is a must see.  Billed as the largest auto show in Lake Placid, De Vane Park turns into an outdoor showroom for new and old cars and bikes.  A walk up and down the rows can reveal some pretty cool cars and a link to the past.

Town of Murals

Caladiums are also the topic of one of the many murals around Lake Placid since they play such an important part of the town’s history.  Nearly 50 murals in all are painted on the sides of buildings around town, each one depicting something different about Lake Placid, its culture or some of its prominent citizens.

(To read more about the murals of Lake Placid, check out our post “Town of Murals: Lake Placid, Florida.”)

Other Places to See

Visitors wanting to get out of the sun have a number of places they can visit, like the Lake Placid Chamber of Commerce on Oak Avenue.  The Chamber has a lot of information about Lake Placid, along with the original prints of the murals.  The Lake Placid Mural Society is also housed in the chamber building.  Along Interlake Boulevard, one of the most popular locations is the Caladium Arts and Crafts Cooperative, which features unique items made by local artists and crafters.  Spread out over 10,000 square feet, everything from original paintings to quilts to year-round Christmas collectibles can be found here.  Yes, there are caladium themed items as well.  Main Street also has a lot of interesting shops and restaurants as well.

29th Annual Caladium Festival

If you missed this year’s festival, make sure to mark your calendars for the 2019 festival on July 26, 27, and 28, but don’t wait until then to visit this gem of a town.  Take a day, spend time taking in the murals, then head over to Henscratch Farms and Sugar Sand Distillery.  It’s a Florida trip definitely worth taking.

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Traveling the Back Roads of North Central Florida

Growing up in a small Florida town, going from Point A to Point B always required traveling back roads.  I don’t think I ever really appreciated those drives until I moved to the city and had to drive on interstates or four-lane roads, all the while navigating through traffic.  Now, I look for those back roads.  I look for the small towns and the old buildings.  I look for those “unique” features that define the communities.  I look for Old Florida.

Lloyd, Florida

Lloyd is one of those places I probably would not have known about had it not been for this adventure to “celebrate all things Florida.”  Named after Walter Lloyd, a blacksmith from New York, it is located about a mile south of Interstate 10 at Exit 217 near Tallahassee.  It is also the birthplace of Mary Edwards Bryan (1846-1913), a writer of more than 20 novels, including Manch (1880) and Wild Work (1881).

The history of this little town can be tied to the railroad industry, which lasted until the 1930s.  As home to the oldest brick railroad station in Florida, Lloyd is a place for Florida history buffs to visit.  The Lloyd Railroad Depot was built in 1858 and is also one of only three surviving railroad depots from the Civil War in Florida.  (The other two are in Tallahassee and Gainesville.)  The depot once served as a hub for transportation and trade and was used by Confederate soldiers for military purposes during the war.

You can only imagine this little depot in its heyday and the stories that unfolded on the station’s platform.

The old brick building has stood up against the measure of time and is now used as the town’s post office.  You can find it at the intersection of Highways 59 and 158.

McAlpin, Florida

After leaving Lloyd, we continued our back roads journey, weaving our way around to U.S. Highway 129, stopping just south of Live Oak in the unincorporated town of McAlpin.

McAlpin, settled in 1882, was named for Daniel M. McAlpin, who had been the owner of the Bulletin (forerunner to the Suwannee Democrat), station master at the railroad, tax assessor, and representative to the Florida legislature (1875).

I must admit, though, what caught my eye the numerous times driving through McAlpin, was the old Speed gas station sign. Weathered and faded, it stands next to an old abandoned store, reminiscent of a part of “old Florida” where family-owned stores and filling stations were part of the booming landscape of the time.

A great place to read up on the history of McAlpin is the group’s Facebook page, McAlpin Florida History.

O’Brien, Florida

About seven miles south of McAlpin on 129 is the small town of O’Brien.  Established in 1880 as Obrine, its name changed to Obrine Station and finally O’Brien.  Upon driving into town, one of the first things to see is a brightly colored rooster perched atop the O’Brien Feed Depot and Hardware Store.

The charm and history don’t stop there.  Just a street to the west of 129 off County Road 349 is a row of old storefronts, one of which is still in use, the Village Emporium.  The shop wasn’t open when we passed through, but it’s definitely on the list of places to revisit as it is said to have its own history. Several other vacant buildings line the small dirt road.

Just past the row of old stores sits another old gem, an old wooden structure with boarded up windows and a tree that has become a part of the structure itself.

Back across 129 going west on CR 349, is another of those back roads you must take the time to enjoy.  It’s a curvy little road that holds a pleasant surprise – if you look for it.  Not easily visible from the road, back among the pine trees, is an old wood-frame house.  Its windows seem to be peering out from between the rows of trees as if they are eyes looking out from the past trying to get a glimpse into the future.

There are plenty of other small towns in North Central Florida to explore, each with their own unique features.  Although each one has its own history to tell, sometimes it’s the little oddities or the hidden treasures among the trees that make it unique.  Dare to venture off the well-traveled highways onto the county roads that lead you straight into Florida history at its finest.

FM Notes:  Here are a few other old towns you might want to read about:

DeLand

Monticello

Lake Placid

Micanopy

Wood and Swink General Store in Evinston

McIntosh

The Athens of Florida: DeLand

Brief History of DeLand

DeLand’s rich history goes back to when the area was known as Persimmon Hollow and was only accessible by steamboat along the St. John’s River.  Captain John Rich built a log cabin there in 1874, then two years later, in 1876, Henry A. DeLand visited his brother-in-law who lived in Persimmon Hollow.  DeLand liked it so much he purchased a $1,000 plot of land with the idea of developing the area.  He offered settlers purchasing the property a chance to sell it back to him within a two-year period.  DeLand lived up to his word after a freeze destroyed all of their crops and they could no longer stay there.  He bought back all the land.

“Henry’s Vision”

DeLand is also responsible for the city’s nickname “The Athens of Florida.”  Although he was never a full-time resident of the state, he wanted the city to become a place of culture, education and beauty like Athens, Greece.

Stetson University

Stetson University, Florida’s oldest private college, also plays a major role in the city’s history.  Stetson sits on about 160 acres of land in the heart of DeLand.  Founded in 1883 as DeLand University, its name was changed to Stetson University in 1889 in honor of John B. Stetson, a hat manufacturer who, along with Henry DeLand (founder of the city), was one of the founding trustees of the university.

DeLand Hall

Beautiful brick buildings are part of the university’s landscape.  One of those buildings, Elizabeth Hall, was built in 1885 and sits on North Woodland Boulevard.  Elizabeth Hall and other buildings like it are the reasons the university is on the National Register of Historic Places for the state’s “oldest collection of education-related buildings.”

Elizabeth Hall, built 1885

This picturesque campus has been ranked as the 5th best regional university in the South in the 2017 U.S. News and World Report’s guide to America’s Best Colleges.

Stetson Mansion

When planning for this day trip to DeLand, I knew I also wanted to see the Stetson Mansion, but driving up to the entrance, the gate was closed and a sign indicated the start time of the next tour.   Reservations for the tours are required, which means I should have done a little more research! Nevertheless, looking through the gate at this massive mansion, it’s easy to understand why it is Florida’s first luxury estate.

The mansion is referred to as “The House that Hats Built” and served as the winter home for John B. Stetson for 20 years.  Built in 1886, the mansion is filled with intricate carvings, parquet floors and 10,000 panes of antique window glass. It is also one of the first homes in the world with electricity, thanks to the friendship between Stetson and Thomas Edison.  Although it is now a private residence, year-round tours are still offered with special tours taking place during the Christmas holidays.

Athens Theatre

It’s only fitting that the city known as The Athens of Florida is home to its own Athens Theatre.  The theatre is in Historic Downtown DeLand at the end of Indiana Avenue along North Florida Avenue.  The theatre opened its doors in 1922 and was dubbed “Florida’s Handsomest Theatre.”  The theatre has evolved over the years from vaudeville acts to a movie theatre to a dinner theatre.  It closed its doors in the early 1990s but became the focus of the MainStreet DeLand Association which recognized the role it plays in the history of the city.  It is now owned by a non-profit theatre company and produces six Broadway caliber shows per year.  The Athens Theatre Youth Company also uses the facility to educate the youth about the performing arts.

The DeLand Mural Walk

Another must-see in DeLand is the city’s Mural Walk.  With 12 official murals painted on the sides of buildings around town, it is part of the Florida Mural Trail.  Each mural offers its own story about the history of Deland and range from smaller paintings, like “Gibbs Clothing Store”

…to the city’s longest mural at Painter’s Pond Park.  At 100 feet long, it shows what train passengers would see as they were riding through DeLand in the early 1900s.

In addition to the “official” murals, there are several others painted around town that are worth seeing.  The “Wings” painting along Pill Alley is one of those that visitors seek out, perhaps in an effort to earn their own wings.

Shopping and Dining in DeLand

The streets of DeLand are filled with stores, restaurants, and drinking establishments. Music stores offer up vinyl records of some of the old favorites, while antique stores provide treasure hunters plenty of opportunities to plunder.

Three-story antique store. A dream come true!

Hometown breweries like Persimmon Hollow Brewing Company and outdoor spaces like DaVinci Gardens give patrons unique experiences to relax and unwind.

On the outside looking in

Fun during the day, but buzzing at night

Other Things to See in DeLand

If these things aren’t enough to keep a person busy, there are a couple of other opportunities to take in the city of DeLand.  Stop by the old courthouse and gaze up at the amazing architecture, or visit the Chess Park adjacent to the courthouse.  Chess pieces are not provided.

With so much to see and do in DeLand, it’s best to do a little research beforehand.  But it’s definitely a place to go to continue “celebrating all things Florida.”

Monticello, Florida

For years, I have been driving Interstate 10 west to Tallahassee either as a student at Florida State University or the parent of two daughters at FSU. In all of those years, I rarely ventured off the main highway to visit any of the smaller towns. However, now that I have moved to Tallahassee, Monticello is becoming one of my favorite small Florida towns.

First, let me say, the drive into Monticello on U.S. Highway 90 will more than likely be full of color in the coming month, as crepe myrtles lined both sides of the road. That in itself would be worth the drive, but there is much more to this charming town.

Jefferson County Courthouse

Monticello is the county seat of Jefferson County, named after Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States and author of the Declaration of Independence. If you know history, you might know Jefferson’s home in Virginia also bore the name Monticello. The town was named after that home and serves as the hub of the county. The Jefferson County Courthouse sits in the center of town and was built in 1909. The Latin phrase “Suum Cuique”, can be seen above its doors, meaning “to each his own” or “may all get their due.”

Walking and Driving Tour of Monticello

Monticello is known for its historic buildings. If you want to get a glimpse of them, all you have to do is to take a drive off the main highway through town and meander through the side streets.  In all, there are more than 600 buildings in the area that were built before 1920. A walking and driving tour has been established to lead visitors to 26 of those structures.

Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce

Make sure to stop at the Chamber of Commerce on the way in to pick up a brochure showing the route along with a brief history of those buildings.

Tour brochures can be picked up at the Chamber of Commerce

The Avera-Clarke House was built in 1890 by state legislator Thomas L. Clarke.  It sits on the corner of U.S. 90 and Pine Street and now serves as a bed and breakfast. With its red shutters and white picket fence, the building itself seems to say “welcome home.”

Avera-Clarke House in Monticello

Other homes in Monticello represent those typical of the Old South.

Budd-Pafford House (1833)

Monticello Opera House

One of the primary historic structures is The Monticello Opera House, built in 1890 by businessman John H. Perkins, in what is known as the Perkins Block. Sitting across from the courthouse, it still serves as a cultural and arts center for the area.  The second floor of the building houses the theatre itself, which is often said to have nearly perfect acoustics.  Local companies regularly put on musical and theatrical shows, as well as other musical groups. (Check the calendar of events for dates and times.)

Monticello Opera House | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shopping and Other Activities in Monticello

We visited on a Sunday, and other than church activities, the streets of Monticello were relatively empty. The shops were closed, but the town still showed off its charm with antique stores, restaurants and other locally owned businesses.

 

As is the case with small towns, Monticello also lays claim to other activities. The second weekend in May is the Southern Music Rising Festival featuring musicians from all over the country. They set up in the Opera House and on the porches of the houses throughout downtown to entertain visitors with old time music. The town also comes to life during the third weekend in June with the Jefferson County Watermelon Festival.

And if you are into haunted ghost tours, Monticello is known as the “South’s Most Haunted Small Town.” Historic Monticello Ghost Tours are held through September and cemetery scavenger hunts are also offered through reservations.

Monticello is a small town with a big heart and a big history.  This trip definitely taught me a lesson: make it a point to get off the main highways and visit some of the smaller towns in the state. Those towns are where you will experience the “real Florida.”

Town of Murals: Lake Placid, Florida

A sign along Highway 27 at the edge of Lake Placid in Highlands County reads, “Town of Murals.”  Unless you pay attention to the sign or exit on one of the town’s main roads, you might miss what has become a vital part of the town and its history.

Having grown up less than 30 minutes from Lake Placid, I spent many summers at Lake June.  The murals weren’t part of the town then, but it was definitely a place that felt inviting and friendly.  Now that I’ve had a chance to go back and see these murals for myself, I am even more enchanted with this town.


Lake Placid is like any other little town: a farmer’s market, a main street, quaint shops, the locals milling about on a Sunday afternoon. What sets this apart is just what the sign says – murals.  There are nearly 50 of them painted on the sides of buildings around town.  Each one depicts something different about the history of Lake Placid, its culture or some of its prominent citizens.

“Captain” T. W. Webb
Richard Archbold
Early Physicians
Eddie Mae Henderson
Dr. Charles Akes
Dr. Melvil Dewey

This was all the brainchild of Harriet and Bob Porter, themselves depicted on the front of the Chamber of Commerce building.  Harriet says she and her husband got the idea from an impromptu stop in Chemainus, Vancouver Island, British Columbia during a motorcycle trip to Alaska.

“We found a little sign by the side of the road that said, ‘The Little Town that Did.’  We decided to see what they did,” Harriet says, “and we saw 32 beautiful larger than life murals that depicted the history of their town.”

That was the beginning of the Lake Placid Mural Society.

“Town of Murals – How it All Began” featuring Bob and Harriet Porter

The Murals

“Tea at Southwinds” Lake Placid’s first mural by Thomas Freeman in 1993

One of the favorite murals around town is the “Cracker Trail Cattle Drive,” taking up the entire side of the old Winn Dixie on the corner of Highway 27 and Route 621 East. The 175 feet wide mural depicts the importance and magnitude of the cattle industry in Florida, and in Lake Placid in particular.  The cattle are all marked with registered brands belonging to Highlands County cattlemen.  Standing in front of this massive mural, you can almost feel the pounding of their hooves as they are being driven out of town.

“Cracker Trail Cattle Drive” by Keith Goodson

It took about six months to paint the mural 1994 by artist Keith Goodson.  Since that time, it’s been repainted at least three times to maintain its beauty – something that is done with all of the murals around town.  The only thing missing from this mural currently is the sound of the cattle mooing which came to an end when the building was vacated and the electricity turned off.

Another mural in town, “The Lost Bear Cub,” also features sound.  It was painted  in 1997 by Terry Smith on the side of a barber shop on East Interlake Boulevard.  Stop by and listen to the mama bear and her cub.

The Artists

Most of the murals were painted by single artists, although there are some that involved the collaboration of two artists – depending on their skill sets.

Part of “Birding” by Thomas Brooks and Terry Smith

“They all have their specialties,” Harriet says. “Some are better at wildlife than others.  Some are better at painting people. This is how we’ve chosen through the years – by what their talents are and what is required in the mural.”

“Caladium Fields” by Thomas Freeman

There has never been a competition or a call put out for the artists.  They were chosen through connections with the Caladium Arts and Crafts Co-op, which Harriet also began with her husband.

The Process

Not just any mural can be painted on the side of a building.  Everything is related to Lake Placid.  The history is researched and provided to an artist, who in turn interprets the information in their own way.  A full-color rendering is provided to the Mural Society before any paint can go on the wall.  Once approved, the painting begins.

All of the original renderings hang inside the Chamber of Commerce and are on display during business hours.

Something for Everyone

“The Murals of Lake Placid” guide book will make your visit complete and can be purchased at the Chamber or any number of businesses in town.  The guide includes information about the mural, the artist and even offers an interactive activity for each of them.

If you or your children like to find hidden pictures, the murals have that to offer as well.  Each of them has something either hidden or missing and the guide book tells you what to look for in each mural.

Portion of “Our Citrus Heritage.” There are four hidden oranges with smiley faces in this mural.  

“Bassin'” Can you find what’s missing?

The mural that started the interactive activities was another of the town’s favorites, “Bassin’” another mural painted by Keith Goodson.  Harriet says when Goodson was finishing up he told her he didn’t think he could put another brush load of paint on the mural.  About two weeks after the scaffolding was removed, a woman told Harriet the artist forgot something.

“I said, ‘forgot?” Harriet remembers, and rushed over to look at it.  “Sure enough, he had.”

Goodson offered to go back and finish it, but Harriet decided against it and made that a regular feature of all murals from that day on.

Response to the Murals

The murals have become an important part of Lake Placid, helping them win the distinction of “America’s Most Interesting Town” in 2013 by the Reader’s Digest. Tourism has seen an increase, which means restaurants and stores benefit from the extra people in town.  More than 150 cities and towns across the United States and Canada have reached out to ask how to start their own mural project.  The result of that is the Florida Mural Trail, comprised of about a dozen other towns showcasing their own artwork.

“America’s Most Interesting Town”

More to Offer

You can easily spend the day in Lake Placid, visiting the murals and reading about their history.  Many of the murals are grouped together, which makes it easy to park the car and walk.  No need to worry about getting in the way of the locals when you play tourist.  They’ll just smile or wave when you stop to take pictures.

“Birding” is located in the Lake Placid Noon Rotary Park along with “Layers of Time”

Of course there is much more to Lake Placid than just the murals, but you’ll have to visit for yourself to find the other hidden gems in this town with “history all around.”

 

FM Footnote:  Selecting mural photographs to share in this post was difficult, so don’t be surprised if there is another post with more photos and more about what Lake Placid has to offer.  In the meantime, please visit this little town (or any of the other towns on the Florida Mural Trail) and see up close the amazing talent and ideas that brought this project to fruition.

The Gamble Place

One of the great things about Florida is there is always a new place to explore, one you never knew existed. A recent trip to Port Orange led to the discovery of yet another hidden treasure. Not only does it offer a step back in time, but also a little bit of whimsy and a window into a backwoods retreat.

Egwanulti

Egwanulti is the name given to the Gamble Place by James N. Gamble, the son of the co-founder of the Procter and Gamble Company. Egwanulti is a Native American word meaning “by the water” which is fitting because of its location along Spruce Creek. Gamble bought the land in 1898, but it wasn’t until 1907 that he built the cracker-style house that still stands on the property today. The house features a separate kitchen and dining room, connected by a breezeway or dog-trot, and an open front porch.  The back porch, with its chairs and benches, opens to the back yard with the creek just steps away.  Sitting on the porch, you can just imagine the stories shared by those who once called this place home during the winter months.

Gamble Place

An inviting back porch

Besides the house, Gamble also rebuilt a packing house on the property to process the citrus from his own grove.

Citrus Packing House

The Gamble Place sits on 175 acres and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1993.

Snow White Cottage

“Heigh-ho, Heigh-ho
It’s home from work we go…”

If those song lyrics conjure up a memory, then this Florida stop is a must-see.  Nestled along the banks of Spruce Creek on the eastern portion of the Gamble property, sits a replica of the Snow White Cottage. You know the one she stayed in with the dwarfs?  The cottage started out as plans for a playhouse, but by the time it was finished, it had expanded into a full-size replica and served as a retreat for guests of all ages. Judge Alfred K. Nippert, Gamble’s son-in-law, got the idea for the cottage after the Disney movie’s release in 1937, just three months after the death of his wife.

Snow White Cottage

Along with the cottage, there are two other structures.  The Diamond Mine is built in the same style as the cottage and is two stories.  The ground floor once had a tank used to store water.  On the second floor, a child’s dream – a playhouse.

“The Diamond Mine”

What would the cottage be without the Wicked Witch lurking nearby?  An old hollow cypress tree was moved to the property, placed on a stone foundation and roofed.  If you look closely, you’ll see a familiar face peering out of the window.

Wicked Witch’s Hut

Cracker Creek

Before you can get onto the Gamble property, you have to stop at the Cracker Creek office to pay a minimal admission fee. While you’re there though, ask about canoe and kayak rentals, or the hydro-bike rentals.  For a more leisurely trip down Spruce Creek, they also offer pontoon boat tours Friday through Sunday.

Cracker Creek Office

Rent a canoe or bring your own

Take a leisurely cruise

No matter if you’re at the Gamble Place or walking around the grounds at Cracker Creek, magnificent peacocks can be seen roaming the property.  These close encounters bring to full light the iridescent blues and greens in their feathers.

Beautiful peacocks roam the property

Cracker Creek and the Gamble Place are located in Port Orange off Taylor Road.  You cannot get inside the actual buildings through the self-tour.  The building tour is available for groups of ten or more but reservations must be made in advance.