Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

Cedar Keys Light Station at Seahorse Key

Cedar Key exudes the description of an “old Florida” town.  Quaint houses. An historic downtown.  Friendly people. The first time I visited Cedar Key was when I worked for Gainesville television station WCJB in the 80s.  Not much has changed since then, but now I view it with a different lens.  I view it as a Florida resident simply interested in the history and beauty of our state.

My most recent trip to Cedar Key was for the purpose of touring the Cedar Keys Light Station during the town’s Seafood Festival in October.  Although Tropical Storm Nestor caused the cancellation of the first day of the festival, it cleared out in time for a beautiful Sunday and a picture-perfect day for a boat ride to Seahorse Key.

Entrance to Seahorse Key | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The boat ride itself took about thirty minutes. Low tide meant a little navigational skill was needed to get us to our destination, but once there, the views from the island were breathtaking.

Cedar Keys Light Station

Stepping off the boat, the lighthouse was in full view.  Unlike other lighthouses we have visited and climbed, Cedar Keys Light Station is a two-story structure, with the typical spiral staircase leading to the lantern room.  The climb consists of 35 steps, but unfortunately, the stairs were blocked off during our visit, so we could not go to the top to get the panoramic view of Seahorse Key.

Cedar Keys Lighthouse | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Steps to top of lighthouse | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

New light installed | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The lighthouse is the oldest standing lighthouse on Florida’s west coast.  Built in 1854, at one time the light could be seen for fifteen miles. It was not only a navigational beacon but was also instrumental in bringing commerce to Cedar Key.

Less than eight years later, the Civil War interrupted life as it was known. At the beginning of the war, the lighthouse fixtures were dismantled and sent to Waldo for safekeeping.  In January of 1862, Union forces on the U.S.S. Hatteras blockaded the keys and destroyed an army barracks and cannons on Seahorse Key.  The lighthouse did not sustain any major damage. In 1866, following the war, the lighthouse was repaired and returned to service. It remained in commission until 1915, due to a significant decrease in vessels using the port.

In 1952, the University of Florida worked out an agreement with U.S. Fish & Wildlife entered to lease the property and establish a marine laboratory. The light station now serves as a dormitory for groups visiting the island for educational purposes.

Seahorse Key Dock | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

After more than 100 years in the dark, the lighthouse was reactivated July 5, 2019.  The fourth-order Fresnel lens that was originally used in the lighthouse, was replicated by Artworks Florida, an Orlando-based company specializing in the restoration of lenses.  In its finished stage, the lens is 36 inches tall and weighs 125 pounds and is lit only during special events.

Other Things to See on Seahorse Key

Birds and Beauty

One of 13 islands that make up the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge, Seahorse Key is said to be the highest elevation on Florida’s west coast.  The sand dune on which the lighthouse was built, is 52.3 feet high which is noticeable when walking the trail from the back of the lighthouse, down to the shore along the Gulf of Mexico.

Unlike other Florida beaches, this one is untouched.  A leisurely walk and keen observation can lead to amazing discoveries.

Steps from the beach to the top of the dune | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The beach at Seahorse Key | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Horseshoe Crab | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Hooded warbler | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The island and a 300-foot buffer around it are closed from March 1st to June 30th to protect nesting birds.

Cemetery

Another interesting find on the island is a small cemetery with about a dozen headstones. Some of those buried include William Wilson, the first lighthouse keeper (1854 – 1855), and Catharine Hobday, the assistant lighthouse keeper from 1872 to 1879. Catharine was also the only woman to serve at the Cedar Keys Light Station. Her son Andrew was the longest serving lighthouse keeper (1871 – 1890).

Other headstones include two local fishermen from the 1800s and sailors from the U.S.S. Fort Henry and the U.S.S. Union.

Make sure to take the mosquito warnings seriously.  This short walk to the cemetery and back included quite a bit of itching and scratching for sure.

Cemetery on Seahorse Key | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Catharine Hobday Tombstone | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Navy sailors tombstones | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Seahorse Key, managed by the Lower Suwannee Wildlife Refuge, is about three miles off Cedar Key and is only open to the general public during open house events.  There are usually about four open houses during the year.  The dates listed so far for 2020 include Wednesday, March 4th and Wednesday, March 18th.

Check out the Nature Coast Biological Station website for future events on Seahorse Key.

Other Fun Facts

  • The name “Cedar Keys” came from two American explorers who were searching for cedar timber near the Suwannee River.
  • Seahorse Key got its name because the land formation resembles a seahorse.

Please view our slide show below of additional photographs taken on Seahorse Key and be sure to leave us a comment on your own adventures of the island.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Boca Grande – More Than Just Tarpon Capital of the World

For more than 40 years, the Gulf Coast in Charlotte County has been my vacation go-to spot.  Pristine beaches.  Clear water.  Amazing sunsets.  From my favorite beach on Manasota Key, I can easily travel to other towns offering old Florida charm, whether it’s with comparable views or other amenities.  During my recent vacation, I visited Boca Grande, also known as Tarpon Capital of the World – but it is much more than that.

Boca Grande Beginnings – Phosphate and Fishing

Like many Florida towns, the first inhabitants of Boca Grande were the Calusa Indians, a hunting and fishing tribe, who lived on the island from about 900 A.D. to the mid-1700s, when they all but disappeared due to European diseases, slavery and warfare.

Situated on Gasparilla Island, about 100 miles south of Tampa, Boca Grande Pass is one of the deepest natural inlets in Florida.  Its location between Charlotte Harbor and the Gulf of Mexico contributed to its early beginnings in  phosphate and, to this day, fishing.  Tarpon congregate at the Pass because of the depth, with estimates of as many as 10,000 of the fish in the Pass at a time, weighing anywhere from 50 to 200 pounds.

Besides fishing, the discovery of phosphate turned Boca Grande into a deep-water port.  In the late 1800s, phosphate was found along the banks of the Peace River, which enters Charlotte Harbor about 20 miles away. The mineral was placed on barges and taken to Port Boca Grande, where it was placed on ships for worldwide distribution. A wooden cleat the ships once tied to on the docks is on display at the lighthouse museum.  Remnants of the docks can still be seen offshore.

In an effort to provide a more efficient way of getting the phosphate from the river to the ships, a railroad was built and carried phosphate and supplies from 1907 to 1979. In fact, in 1969, Port Boca Grande ranked as the fourth busiest port in Florida.

The railroad also opened the area for wealthy individuals from the north to visit the island. Over the years, visitors to this piece of paradise have included names like Vanderbilt and DuPont.

The end of the railroad came in 1979 after years of dwindling port traffic.  Phosphate companies had switched to ports in Tampa and Manatee County and the industry in Boca Grande came to an end. Today, along what used to be the original railroad right-of-way is a seven-mile bike path.

Gasparilla Island State Park

At the southern tip of Gasparilla Island is the Gasparilla Island State Park. Getting into the park will cost you $3.00 per car, but it’s a small price to pay for the beauty and peace of the beach.  Pristine waters, a wide swath of white sand, and views of pelicans, manatees and fish jumping provide a true Florida experience.

Sea Oats, protected by law, aid in the prevention of beach erosion

Pelicans at rest

Manatee swimming offshore

Port Boca Grande Lighthouse and Museum

The Port Boca Grande Lighthouse, the centerpiece of the park, is the oldest structure on the island, guiding mariners since 1890. The lighthouse is a one-story structure with a tower protruding from the top of the roof.  A second, nearly identical building sits next to the lighthouse and once served as the living quarters for the assistant keeper. The lighthouse was donated by the Federal Government to Lee County in 1972, then placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. The lighthouse, fully restored in 1985-86, is visible up to 12 miles away when lit.  A museum and gift shop make up the interior of the lighthouse, but make sure to check out the hours before you go as they vary with the seasons.

Port Boca Grande Lighthouse and Assistant Keeper’s Living Quarters

Gasparilla Island Lighthouse

Besides the lighthouse at the Park, there is a second lighthouse on the island, the Gasparilla Island Lighthouse. This lighthouse was built in Lewes, Delaware in 1888 and was moved and reconstructed in its present location in 1927.  It was first lit in 1932 and flashed every six seconds during evening hours. Like the Boca Grande Lighthouse, it played a critical role in guiding phosphate ships into port.  After decades of decline, the lighthouse was restored in 2018 and opened for climbs.  The structure is 105 feet tall, with 134 steps up a black metal spiral staircase.  It’s said to offer the best view in town, and when climbs start again in October, you can bet we will be there to make the climb and see for ourselves.

Taken during a visit to the island in 2015, prior to restoration

Post restoration

Other Things to See in Boca Grande

While a visit to the park, the beach and the lighthouses is enough to fill a day, there are other things to see and do while in Boca Grande.  The Gasparilla Inn is a cornerstone of the community. Built in 1912, it provided lodging for wealthy northerners coming to Florida during the time when the state became a travel and vacation destination.  Over the years, guests have included Henry Ford, Thomas Edison, and President George H.W. Bush. The Inn was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places on March 18, 2008. Even if you don’t stay there, you can visit and view the grand splendor of the hotel and its property.

A leisurely drive through town reveals a quaint shopping district.  In what was at one time the railroad depot, there are now a number of shops, offices and The Loose Caboose Restaurant.  Other historic buildings, including churches, also add to the charm of this island.

St. Andrews Episcopal Church

First Baptist Church of Boca Grande

Getting to Boca Grande

There are numerous ways to get to the island, depending on where you begin.  Once you actually get to the entrance to the island, there is a $6.00 charge per car to get onto the island.

While Boca Grande shares some of the same characteristics of other Florida coastal towns, it is quieter, more laid back, and less crowded.  Spend a day or spend a week, Boca Grande is one of those locations that offers a true Florida experience.  Sun, sand, surf, or shops – there’s something for about everyone.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse and Museum

Before there were towns, or roads or railroads in Palm Beach County, there was the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse.  This red and black lighthouse has been lighting the way along Florida’s East Coast since July 10, 1860.  Built on a natural sand hill, the lighthouse itself is 108 feet tall and can be seen 24 miles out at sea. Just think about it, for more than 150 years ships have used the lighthouse’s beacon to guide them safely around the Gulf Stream and away from reefs and shoals.

History of Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse

Because of its location at the junction of the Indian River and Jupiter Inlet, in 1849 army surveyors recommended the Jupiter Inlet as a strategic and appropriate place for military defenses. After President Franklin Pierce signed an order to set aside the 61 ½ acres for a lighthouse, Lieutenant George Meade designed the structure, and Lieutenant William Raynolds improved the strength with the design of a double wall.  The lighthouse is comprised of a tower and an iron top, or lantern.  The first-order Fresnel (fray-nel) lens in operation is said to be the oldest existing first-order Fresnel lens in Florida and is one of only 13 active in the United States.

In 1973 the lighthouse was placed on the National Register of Historic Places, then in 1974, it was opened to public tours by the Loxahatchee River Historical Society.

Climbing the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse

Before you even get inside, there are 34 steps you have to climb just to get to the base of the lighthouse. Those are the easy ones.  Once inside, there are 105 steep iron stairs – 100 of them date back to 1860, five were replaced in 2000.

As you work your way to the top, there are three landings that not only provide a chance to catch your breath, but also a look out in different directions.  Those views themselves are amazing, but the views from the top are out of this world.  Walk around the top and see the Atlantic Ocean, the Indian River, Jupiter Inlet and the Loxahatchee River.  On a clear day, you can see for miles.

Other Things to See at the Lighthouse

While the lighthouse is the centerpiece of the property, there are other things to see during your visit.

Keepers’ Workshop and Exhibit

Just off the deck by the lighthouse you will find the Keepers’ Workshop and Exhibit “Keeping the Light at Jupiter Inlet.” Once inside, pick up an adventure map that will take you back in time for a look at the early years of the lighthouse.  Each of the eight “stations” depicted on the map provides information about the lighthouse.  Find out why Jupiter has a lighthouse, a timeline of the lighthouse, how the lighthouse works, or stories of some of the keepers.

Prior to becoming a workshop and exhibit, the building served as a pump house and paint storage locker.  It was built in 1929, but then rebuilt and expanded in 1929 after a major hurricane.

Banyan Tree and Deck

As you walk up the pathway to the lighthouse, the limbs of a large banyan tree reach out in every direction, offering shade to a wooden deck built over the foundation of the original keepers’ house.  Even though it may look like there are several trees, there is only one! The hair-like roots on this 85-year-old tree reach back to the ground, take hold and form new tree trunks.

Tindall House

The house was built in 1892 by George Tindall and is believed to be one of the oldest houses in Palm Beach County.  Originally, the house was located along the Loxahatchee River several miles west of its current location.  It was moved in 1997 to Burt Reynolds Park, then again in 2007 to its final home in Lighthouse Park.  The main portion of the house features four rooms: living room, parlor, bedroom and workroom.  True to style for cracker houses, the Tindall house is elevated off the ground, has high ceilings, and large windows.  Off the back of the house is a replica of the kitchen and dining area, separated from the main part of the house to cut back on heat and potential fires to the remainder of the house.  The interior is furnished with photos of the family, as well as donated items from the 1900s.

Pennock Plantation Bell

Protected from the elements under a wooden roof, the Pennock Plantation Bell has a history of its own.  The bell was used to signal lunch break or the end of a work day at the Pennock Plantation.  It would ring once on those occasions, then continuously when the volunteer fire department was needed. The Pennocks are some of the early pioneers of Jupiter, arriving in 1902 and starting a fern business, as well as a dairy farm. During the first half of the 20th century, the Pennock Plantation was the largest employer in Jupiter.

Plants

As you walk along the brick path, make sure to stop and take a look at the many plants along the way.  Some of them are native to Florida, while others are not.  Wild coffee, muhly grass, dune sunflowers, and beauty berries are all native.  Although agave is found mostly in Mexico and the American Southwest, the dry, sandy soil of Florida is also conducive to its growth. Agave has been growing at the Jupiter Lighthouse for more than 100 years.

Museum and Gift Shop

Before you leave, make sure to check out the museum and gift shop.  The museum, housed inside the 1940 WII Naval Housing Building, offers the exhibit “5,000 Years on the Loxahatchee.”  Eight galleries provide additional information on the lighthouse, maritime history and notable individuals from the area.

 

Self-guided Tour App

If you opt to explore the grounds without a tour guide, there is an App you can download that ensures you don’t miss anything!  Starting from the welcome gate, you are guided on a journey through the history of early Native Americans and the Seminole Indians in the area.  Interpretive readings from period journals provide personal recollections of the life and times of early settlers.

The App provides information on some of the best areas for taking photos, as well as points of interest along the brick path.

 

Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse and Museum Hours

The Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse and Museum is located at 500 Captain Armour’s Way in Jupiter and is open 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.  The last lighthouse grounds admission is at 4:00 p.m. Guided docent tours are held at 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.  Note that the lighthouse is open Tuesday – Sunday, May through December and seven days a week from January to April.

There is a $12 admission fee for adults, $6 for children 6 – 18, and no charge for children five and under.  Special rates are available for U.S. Veterans and senior 60 and over. Children must be 48” to climb.

 

 

 

 

Lighthouses Along Florida’s Forgotten Coast

Lighthouses have been guiding the way for ships into Florida since the first one was built and lit in St. Augustine in 1824.  Besides the value they provide along the 1,350 miles of coastline, lighthouses also serve as symbols of strength and safety as well as beacons of hope.

Along a 75-mile stretch of US 98 in the Florida panhandle, three lighthouses stand tall, each with their own story to tell.

St. Marks Lighthouse

The drive to the St. Marks Lighthouse is scenic to say the least.  After entering the St. Marks Wildlife Refuge, it’s another seven miles to the lighthouse itself.  The slow drive takes you through pine flatwoods, tidal pools and marshes and if you look closely, you might just see alligators, birds and other wildlife, or a buoy washed in by a recent hurricane.

The lighthouse sits at the end of the road, at the mouth of the St. Marks River. The first structure, a hollow-walled tower built in 1830, was not accepted by the customs inspector and a second tower was built, this time with solid walls. But there were problems with the solid walls. Moisture could not evaporate and, as a result, cracks started forming as the structure settled. A tidal surge in 1837 caused even more problems. An inspector at the time determined the lighthouse was in “wretched condition” and had to be rebuilt immediately. Rebuilt again, with hollow walls, the lighthouse has guided ships and boaters to the entrance of the river for more than 180 years.  It stands 88 feet tall and includes 85 steps from the base to the top.  Seventy-two of those steps are wooden, the last 13 are iron.

The St. Marks Lighthouse was decommissioned by the Coast Guard and its ownership transferred to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service in 2013.  Its Fourth Order Fresnel lens was removed and sent to the Ponce de Leon Inlet Lighthouse Preservation Association for cleaning and preserving.  It is now in the Visitor Center at the refuge.

We hoped our visit would allow us the opportunity to climb the steps of the lighthouse and lookout over the river.  However, we were greeted by volunteers with the Friends of St. Marks Wildlife Refuge who informed us the lighthouse is closed to visitors while money is being raised for its preservation.  Once the money is raised and the work completed, the lighthouse will open again for tours.

Crooked River Lighthouse, Carrabelle

A little more than an hour west on 98 is the Crooked River Lighthouse in Carrabelle.  Built in 1895, its purpose was to provide guidance for timber ships and fishermen through the pass between Dog and St. George Islands. The 103-foot iron and steel structure was built on the mainland as a replacement to the three lighthouses that once stood on Dog Island.

The lighthouse was lit with what was believed to be the first bivalve fourth order lens installed in the United States at the time. It remained in the lighthouse until 1976 due to mercury leakage and is now in the Coast Guard’s district offices in New Orleans.  Crooked River was decommissioned in 1995, just shy of its 100th anniversary.   The lighthouse stood neglected for several years until ownership was transferred to the City of Carrabelle in 2001 and then leased to the Carrabelle Lighthouse Association. The lighthouse reopened in 2009, about 14 years after it was shut down.

A Keeper’s House Museum, an original outbuilding, a playground and the lighthouse all make up the Crooked River Lighthouse Park.  The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday from noon to 5:00 PM and, weather permitting, tower climbs are available for a small charge.

Cape St. George Light, St. George Island

The first lighthouse was built in 1833 on the western tip of St. George Island.  Three others followed it, including the current lighthouse, completed in 2008, which sits at the end of the four-mile bridge onto St. George Island, in the center of town.  The fact it was rebuilt is a testament to the community.  In 1995, Hurricane Opal wreaked havoc, washing the lighthouse from its foundation, and leaving other buildings in ruins.  As the tower began to lean over the years, the community stepped up efforts to “Save the Light.” Before they could decide whether to move it to a new location or shore it up where it was standing, the lighthouse collapsed into the Gulf of Mexico.  Pieces of the lighthouse were salvaged, as well as 22,000 bricks.  Those bricks are now visible inside the current lighthouse. With the original plans for the 1852 structure from the National Archives in Washington, D.C., the lighthouse was rebuilt in its current location.

The lighthouse contains 92 wooden spiral steps and an eight-rung metal ladder at the top.  A small scuttle hole of 24” x 21” permits passage to the lens.  Once at the top, the view is breathtaking, from the island itself to the waters of the Gulf of Mexico to St. George Sound and Apalachicola Bay.

A complete history of all four structures can be found inside the Lighthouse Keeper’s House, which serves as a museum and a gift shop. There is a small fee to climb the lighthouse, but it is worth it. The climb is easy until the metal ladder.  The opening to get to the top can be challenging to navigate.

With only 30 remaining lighthouses today, lighthouses are a big part of the history of Florida.  Some are now in the hands of local preservation societies and rely on funding to keep them maintained and open to the public.  You, too, can celebrate all things Florida by making plans to visit one of Florida’s remaining lighthouses.

Ponce Inlet Light Station and Museum

There are some locations that seem to beckon you to visit.  The Ponce Inlet Lighthouse is one of them.  Reaching 175 feet majestically into the sky, this red structure is the tallest lighthouse in the state, and second tallest masonry lighthouse in the United States, behind the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse in the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Ponce Inlet Lighthouse

The Lighthouse

The day we visited, the lighthouse wasn’t even on my radar.  (I’m certainly not one who would go climbing something that tall just for the fun of it!) Standing at the base and looking up, the lighthouse didn’t look that formidable.   But try climbing the 203 steps and you will definitely have a different opinion.  I know I did.  Thankfully, on the lower levels there were places to stop and catch our breath.  But as we got closer to the top, it felt like the walls were closing in.  No wonder.  Its 32-foot diameter base slowly shrinks to just 12 feet at the top.  Once there, though, the view – even on a cloudy day – is breathtaking – water everywhere you look.  After all, it is located ten miles south of Daytona Beach, where the Halifax River and Indian River flow into the Atlantic Ocean.

Looking out at the Atlantic Ocean

Ponce Inlet Light Station Museum

Construction on the lighthouse began in 1884 and was completed in 1887. Still an active lighthouse, it also serves as the focal point of the Ponce Inlet Light Station and Museum, which includes all of the original dwellings of the keepers as well as other support buildings.  Ponce Inlet is one of the only Light Stations in the United States that has these buildings intact.

Keeper’s Dwellings

There are three Keeper’s Dwellings that serve as the museum: Principal Keeper’s, First Assistant Keeper’s, and Second Assistant Keeper’s.  Each building provides visitors with a different piece of history.  The Principal Keeper’s Dwelling once was home to the principal keeper and his family. Now it houses exhibits about  lighthouses of the world, lighthouses for airplanes, and Native Americans in Florida, to name a few.

Principal Keeper’s Dwelling

The First Assistant’s Dwelling is not open for actual tours, but can be seen through viewing panels on the front and back porches.  It was named in honor of Gladys Meyer Davis whose father served as the last Lighthouse Service Principal Keeper at the lighthouse.  The building is furnished as it would have been in the late 1800s or early 1900s. In the Second Assistant Keeper’s Dwelling, visitors can learn more about the local community, from beach racing to the lives of the keepers and their families.  This building actually served as the first town hall for Ponce Inlet in the early 1960s.

First Assistant’s Dwelling

Lens Exhibit

A visit to the lighthouse wouldn’t be complete with going inside of the Lens Exhibit Building.  Before this trip, I did not know about the different types of lenses that are used in lighthouses.  I still don’t know a lot, but what I do know, is this is an impressive collection.  The rotating first order Fresnel lens from the Cape Canaveral Lighthouse is on display as well as the original fixed first order Fresnel lens that was used from 1887 – 1933 in the Ponce Inlet Lighthouse.

Some of the lenses on display

Sign explaining the history of the Cape Canaveral lens

Learn more about the history of Ponce Inlet Lighthouse through other exhibits onsite.  The Ponce De Leon Inlet Light Station and Museum is open daily from 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.  From Memorial Day to Labor Day the hours are extended until 9:00 p.m. with the last tour beginning at 8:00 p.m.  There is an entrance fee which you pay inside the gift shop.

 

Floridiana Magazine (FM) Footnotes:

The Light Station and Museum is operated by the Ponce De Leon Inlet Lighthouse Preservation Association, Inc.  It was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1998 and is now visited by more than 170,000 people a year.

According to the Florida Lighthouse Association, there are 30 lighthouses in Florida and preserving all of them would take nearly $20 million dollars.

For those who visit lighthouses on a regular basis, visit United States Lighthouse Society Passport Program and join the free Passport Club.  There is a charge to actually purchase your passport. Information on that is also available on the website.