Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

Cedar Key – Open for Business

**Note: This was written after Hurricane Idalia ravaged Cedar Key in August 2023, leaving the item rebuilding from the storm surge and winds.  This post does not include the devastation in 2024 from Hurricanes Debby (Augusut) and Helene (September), and a fire on Dock Street.  Cedar Key residents are resilient and have been hard at work to reopen many of the businesses on the island.  Stay tuned for an update from Floridiana Magazine in the coming months.

 

The first thing you will notice is this isn’t one of my typical posts where I share the history of one of Florida’s small communities, or its small-town charm.  Instead, this is a story about how the resilience, spirit, and strength of an entire island community came together in just a few short months of Hurricane Idalia lashing out to rebuild and reopen. This is a story to show that Cedar Key is indeed open, and the welcome mat is out for visitors.

Cedar Key is open for business | Photo collage by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Lodging

Tide’s Pull at Cedar Key

There are plenty of places to stay on the island: beach front homes, quaint cottages, condos, an historic hotel, and a bed and breakfast. For our recent visit, we stayed at Tide’s Pull in the Old Fenimore Mill condos.  With a second-floor balcony overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, we were treated to beautiful sunrises and dolphins frolicking in the waters. The balcony was a beautiful place to begin and end the day. Inside, the amenities were just as welcoming.  A king size bed, a spacious bathroom, well-stocked kitchen, dining area, and a comfortable living room made this the perfect home away from home. Tide’s Pull is also within walking distance of the playground and public beach, and if you’re up to it, it’s a nice walk to Dock Street.

Tide’s Pull at Cedar Key | Photo from Tide’s Pull rental page

When you enjoy your stay, leave a kind note | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Sunrises from the second floor balcony did not disappoint | Photo by Doris Keeler,. Floridiana Magazine

Dining

When we made the decision to go to Cedar Key, we turned to social media for recommendations on food and it did not disappoint.  There was no way to get to all those places in a short time, but we did manage to get to a few of them.  And, unfortunately, a few of the restaurants we wanted to visit closed early, so they’ll be on our list for our next visit.  Because hours are fluctuating since the storm, it’s recommended to call ahead and find out when they are open.  Addresses and phone numbers have been included for your convenience.

Steamers Clam Bar & Grill 

Located on Dock Street, this is one of the island’s mainstays. We enjoyed dinner there on two separate occasions, and both times we were pleased with both the food and the service.

  • 420 Dock Street
  • 352-543-5142

Steamers Clam Bar & Grill, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Steamers Clam Bar & Grill, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Fish Dip Appetizer, Steamers | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Key Lime Pie, Steamers | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

29 North at 83 West 

29 North is located on the second floor at 83 West and offers picturesque views of the Gulf of Mexico.  No matter where you are seated, there’s not a bad table in the house. 29 North does not take reservations and they only seat up to 8 guests at a table. The full-service dining is a pleasant experience with food selections to tempt any taste bud. Below 29 North is 83 West – a casual bar atmosphere which also serves food from 29 North.

  • 310 Dock Street
  • 352-543-5070

29 North at 893 West, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

29 North Menu, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Desserts and Drinks Menu | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shrimp and Grits (YUMMY) | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Pumpkin Banana Pudding Icebox Cake | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Big Deck Bar & Grill 

Big Deck was just reopening during our visit in November.  A great relaxed atmosphere with a full menu that includes appetizers and snacks, dinner entrees, and sandwiches. Seating outside.

  • 331 Dock Street
  • 352-543-9922

Big Deck Bar & Grill, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Annie’s Café 

A great go-to for a good lunch, with seating both inside and outside. We’ve eaten here a few times on various visits.

  • 609 6th Street
  • 352-543-6141

Annie’s Cedar Key, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Tony’s Seafood 

THE best clam chowder!  Tony’s is located in the historic Hale Building (est. 1880) on the corner of 2nd Street and D Street.  Prior to Hurricane Idalia, they were a full-service restaurant.  Now they mainly serve their signature Clam Chowder, which is why visitors went anyway – right? Still a great place to dine.

  • 597 2nd Street
  • 352-543-0022

Championship Clam Chowder, Tony’s, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Historic Hale Building, Home of Tony’s | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

2nd Street Café 

This was our favorite place to grab breakfast. Fast and courteous service, along with great food, got our days started off on the right foot. We chose to sit outside, although there is indoor seating available as well.

  • 434 2nd Street
  • 352-477-5099

2nd Street Cafe, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Great place for a cup of coffee! | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Cedar Key

Bacon, eggs, pancakes – a filling breakfast! | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shopping

When visiting a small community like Cedar Key, shopping in the local stores can lead to treasures.  Plus, it’s always nice to give business to the locals.  We had the chance to visit a few of the stores on our recent trip.

Salt Marsh Cottage

This was the first store we stopped in, and I’m glad we did.  I had a nice conversation with the lady working there that day. She recounted the impact of Hurricane Idalia on the shop and how the island community came together.

  • 618 D Street
  • 352-477-5100

Salt Marsh Cottage, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Main Street Mercantile

Main Street Mercantile is located in the historic Lutterloh Building (est. 1872) and is home to a gift shop. I was directed there because I was looking for an ornament for my Christmas tree that had “Cedar Key” painted on it.  I was not let down.

  • 457 2nd Street
  • 352-222-8585

Main Street Mercantile, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Dilly Dally Gally

If you’re looking for any Cedar Key attire, I’d say the Dilly Dally Galley is a good place to go. Located on Dock Street, it is packed full of goodies.  From women’s apparel, to children’s items, to t-shirts, and jewelry.  You’re sure to find something you like there.

  • 390 Dock Street
  • 352-543-9146

Dilly Dally Gally, Dock Street | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Other Things to Do

Vacations to me are mostly about relaxing, so if you agree, Cedar Key is the place to go.  I’m content to drive around town, looking at historic homes, old churches, and wildlife.

Lighthouse Tour

Luckily for us, our trip coincided with one of the quarterly open houses of the lighthouse on Seahorse Key. We’ve been before, but it’s always fun to take another tour.

Check ahead to see when the 2024 open houses are scheduled.

Cedar Key Lighthouse | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Cedar Key Historical Society & Museum 

The Historical Society was formed in 1977 and the museum opened two years later in 1979.  A minimal fee allows visitors to take a step back into the history books of Cedar Key.

  • 609 2nd Street
  • 352-543-5549

Historical Society Museum, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler

Cedar Key Community Garden 

The Community Garden is tucked away on 2nd Street between A & B Streets and is a fun find.  Started by a group of volunteers, the garden is home to many raised beds, featuring herbs, vegetables, and flowers.  It’s a quiet little spot is another example of community.

Community Garden, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Please don’t pick! | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Fishing off the Pier 

Although we weren’t fishing, there were plenty of others who staked their claim on the pier, hoping to haul in their catch of the day. Of course, there’s always plenty of places offshore to drop a line.  If you don’t have your own boat, check into the fishing charters while you’re there.

Fishing from the pier | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Cedar Key feels like home to me.  I’m not sure why.  Maybe because I covered Hurricane Elena in 1985 while working at a Gainesville television station and witnessed first-hand the sense of community. Maybe it’s because the times I’ve visited, I’ve felt more like one of the townspeople than a tourist on the island.  Whatever the reason, this island is good for the soul and now it’s a part of my soul.

I’ll be back!

Please take a minute and watch the slideshow of some of the pictures I took on the island.  And please leave me a comment.

 

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Faces of Florida: Herman Wells, Furniture Maker

Update:  Herman Wells passed away in August 2024.  He will be remembered as a kind, old soul and is truly missed.

On a recent visit to Cedar Key, we stopped by the Wells Wood shop on 5th Street.  Although Mr. Wells was busy at the time, he stopped what he was doing and with true, old Florida hospitality invited us to sit down for a while.  What was intended to be a short visit turned into an hour-long conversation. Over the course of our visit, Mr. Wells talked about his shop, his late wife, and his late long-time canine companion. He told us how he used to be a commercial fisherman and boat builder, and about the way things used to be in Cedar Key.  Mr. Wells pulled out his phone and showed us a photo of one of the boats he built, along with a video of himself playing the guitar and singing. I’m sure if one of his four guitars had been in his shop, he would have pulled it out and played for us.

Herman Wells, Furniture Maker | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

One of the boats Mr. Wells built | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Wells Wood Shop

At 79, Herman Wells starts every day by 6:00 a.m.  He doesn’t have far to go to get to work since he lives in a small house behind his shop. For decades, Mr. Wells has been making this same morning trek to the wood shop.  When he was growing up, this building was the church he attended and where his father, a preacher, would hold Sunday services when the regular pastor was unable to stand in the pulpit.

Wells Wood shop on 5th Street | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Wells Wood Shop | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Pulpit | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Although the pulpit is still there, the inside has been transformed into a wood worker’s dream.  A large shop fan sits by the open side doors, offering a little relief to the hot Florida temperatures. Inside, a vast assortment of wood working machinery and tools, along with stacks of cedar stand at the ready for Mr. Wells’ creations.  Most days he can be found here sawing, routing, drilling and assembling.  Mr. Wells says his furniture, consisting of Adironack-style chairs, gliders, tables and slatted chairs are located in every state, and as far away as Holland.

Shop fan keeps things as cool as it can | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

One of many woodworking tools | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Assorted tools | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Stacks of wood | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Mr. Wells taught himself how to build furniture, starting first with plans but then modifying them to his liking.  Although he doesn’t work as quickly as he once did, he tells us he can still have two Adirondack-style chairs cut out and ready for assembly by noon.

Wood, wood and more wood | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Stack of finished chairs | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Finished table | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Besides the wood shop, Mr. Wells also has a sawmill on ten acres outside of town. He traded two lots in town for the property where the logs used in his shop are run through the cutting process and sliced into planks.

Wells Wood Sawmill | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Wells Wood Sawmill | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Mr. Wells has become somewhat of a celebrity in town after numerous articles have been published about his furniture making.  He wasn’t born in Cedar Key, but he was raised here.  He says he remembers a time when there were only about 100 people living on the island.  Although there were just over 700 living in Cedar Key in 2019, it is a popular spot for tourists.  Mr. Wells recounts how signs of the old Cedar Key are fading.  A large aluminum dock has replaced the old wood dock.  Street names have changed.  New condos and larger stilt homes have taken the place of some of the older structures in town.

Changing times | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Even with the changes, Mr. Wells loves the Cedar Key life and his celebrity. He tells us how visitors to his shop always take pictures of him standing in the front doorway.  Of course, we had to get that photo as well.

Herman Wells and one of his chairs | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Wells Wood Contact Information

If you are ever in Cedar Key, make sure to stop and see Mr. Wells.

709 NW 5th Street

(352) 477-0160

Enjoy a few more of our photos from our visit with Mr. Wells.

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Faces of Florida Nominations

Visiting with Mr. Wells was a treat, and I’m sure there are many other Floridians like him with great stories and experiences to share.  If you know of someone we can profile in our Faces of Florida, please send an email to floridianamag@gmail.com nominating him or her.  Please include the following:

  • Individual’s name
  • Place of residence (town or county)
  • Story background
  • Why their story represents old Florida

We look forward to your nominations.

 

Cedar Keys Light Station at Seahorse Key

Cedar Key exudes the description of an “old Florida” town.  Quaint houses. An historic downtown.  Friendly people. The first time I visited Cedar Key was when I worked for Gainesville television station WCJB in the 80s.  Not much has changed since then, but now I view it with a different lens.  I view it as a Florida resident simply interested in the history and beauty of our state.

My most recent trip to Cedar Key was for the purpose of touring the Cedar Keys Light Station during the town’s Seafood Festival in October.  Although Tropical Storm Nestor caused the cancellation of the first day of the festival, it cleared out in time for a beautiful Sunday and a picture-perfect day for a boat ride to Seahorse Key.

Entrance to Seahorse Key | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The boat ride itself took about thirty minutes. Low tide meant a little navigational skill was needed to get us to our destination, but once there, the views from the island were breathtaking.

Cedar Keys Light Station

Stepping off the boat, the lighthouse was in full view.  Unlike other lighthouses we have visited and climbed, Cedar Keys Light Station is a two-story structure, with the typical spiral staircase leading to the lantern room.  The climb consists of 35 steps, but unfortunately, the stairs were blocked off during our visit, so we could not go to the top to get the panoramic view of Seahorse Key.

Cedar Keys Lighthouse | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Steps to top of lighthouse | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

New light installed | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The lighthouse is the oldest standing lighthouse on Florida’s west coast.  Built in 1854, at one time the light could be seen for fifteen miles. It was not only a navigational beacon but was also instrumental in bringing commerce to Cedar Key.

Less than eight years later, the Civil War interrupted life as it was known. At the beginning of the war, the lighthouse fixtures were dismantled and sent to Waldo for safekeeping.  In January of 1862, Union forces on the U.S.S. Hatteras blockaded the keys and destroyed an army barracks and cannons on Seahorse Key.  The lighthouse did not sustain any major damage. In 1866, following the war, the lighthouse was repaired and returned to service. It remained in commission until 1915, due to a significant decrease in vessels using the port.

In 1952, the University of Florida worked out an agreement with U.S. Fish & Wildlife entered to lease the property and establish a marine laboratory. The light station now serves as a dormitory for groups visiting the island for educational purposes.

Seahorse Key Dock | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

After more than 100 years in the dark, the lighthouse was reactivated July 5, 2019.  The fourth-order Fresnel lens that was originally used in the lighthouse, was replicated by Artworks Florida, an Orlando-based company specializing in the restoration of lenses.  In its finished stage, the lens is 36 inches tall and weighs 125 pounds and is lit only during special events.

Other Things to See on Seahorse Key

Birds and Beauty

One of 13 islands that make up the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge, Seahorse Key is said to be the highest elevation on Florida’s west coast.  The sand dune on which the lighthouse was built, is 52.3 feet high which is noticeable when walking the trail from the back of the lighthouse, down to the shore along the Gulf of Mexico.

Unlike other Florida beaches, this one is untouched.  A leisurely walk and keen observation can lead to amazing discoveries.

Steps from the beach to the top of the dune | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The beach at Seahorse Key | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Horseshoe Crab | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Hooded warbler | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The island and a 300-foot buffer around it are closed from March 1st to June 30th to protect nesting birds.

Cemetery

Another interesting find on the island is a small cemetery with about a dozen headstones. Some of those buried include William Wilson, the first lighthouse keeper (1854 – 1855), and Catharine Hobday, the assistant lighthouse keeper from 1872 to 1879. Catharine was also the only woman to serve at the Cedar Keys Light Station. Her son Andrew was the longest serving lighthouse keeper (1871 – 1890).

Other headstones include two local fishermen from the 1800s and sailors from the U.S.S. Fort Henry and the U.S.S. Union.

Make sure to take the mosquito warnings seriously.  This short walk to the cemetery and back included quite a bit of itching and scratching for sure.

Cemetery on Seahorse Key | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Catharine Hobday Tombstone | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Navy sailors tombstones | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Seahorse Key, managed by the Lower Suwannee Wildlife Refuge, is about three miles off Cedar Key and is only open to the general public during open house events.  There are usually about four open houses during the year.  The dates listed so far for 2020 include Wednesday, March 4th and Wednesday, March 18th.

Check out the Nature Coast Biological Station website for future events on Seahorse Key.

Other Fun Facts

  • The name “Cedar Keys” came from two American explorers who were searching for cedar timber near the Suwannee River.
  • Seahorse Key got its name because the land formation resembles a seahorse.

Please view our slide show below of additional photographs taken on Seahorse Key and be sure to leave us a comment on your own adventures of the island.

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