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Things to See and Do in Apalachicola

There are some places you can visit over and over again and not see everything there is to see or do everything there is to do.  Those same places change over time and, from one visit to the next, may not offer the same “landmarks” you made it a point to see.  One such town is Apalachicola, on Florida’s Forgotten Coast.  As its name translates, it is the “land of the friendly people.”

Brief History of Apalachicola

Even though Apalachicola wasn’t settled until the 1820s, its history goes back much further – Native Americans thousands of years ago, along with European influence by the Spanish and English.  Florida was ceded to United States in 1821.  Originally named Cottonton, then incorporated as West Point, it was renamed Apalachicola in 1831.

As you drive over the bridge on US 98 heading west, the history of Apalachicola is easy to understand.  Its location along the Apalachicola River where it meets Apalachicola Bay, set this town up as a port for shipping – making it at one time the third largest cotton shipping port on the Gulf of Mexico.  Besides cotton, Apalachicola also thrived in the sponge and timber industries.  The sponge trade, beginning in the 1870s, became the third largest in the state.  One of the original sponge warehouses, The Sponge Exchange, remains in downtown Apalachicola.

Another major industry in Apalachicola, and one that remains today, is the seafood industry. Apalachicola is known throughout the United States for its oysters.

Historic Homes in Apalachicola

A drive through the historic district of Apalachicola is like a drive back in time. There are more than 900 historic homes, buildings and other sites within the district to see, ten of them designated as Florida Heritage Landmarks. A couple you don’t want to miss include the Dr. Alvan W. Chapman House, the Hanserd-Fry House, and perhaps the most famous in Apalachicola, the Orman House.

Dr. Alvan W. Chapman House – This house was built in 1847 for Dr. Chapman who, besides being a physician, was also a botanist.  He is known for his research and writings on the flora of the South.  Chapman was very active in Apalachicola, having served as county judge, mayor and collector of customs.

Hanserd-Fry House –  Located on 5th Street, the Hanserd-Fry House was built around 1845 and served as the residence of several individuals.  The first-known owner was Joseph Hanserd who lived there as early as 1866, followed by Kate Ayers in 1872, with Captain Weber Fry buying it in 1880.  Fry was a riverboat captain on the Apalachicola River. The house served as the Apalachicola Museum of Art from 2006 – 2016 and now is the office and visitor center for the St. Vincent National Wildlife Refuge.

The Orman House – The Orman House is a Florida State Park and sits on a bluff overlooking the Apalachicola River. It is a must see on a visit to Apalachicola.  The house was built in 1838 by Thomas Orman, a cotton merchant and businessman credited with being a key to the success of the town.

Touring this stately home takes you back to the 1800s.  As you walk through the house, you get a glimpse of the Orman family lifestyle.  The house is filled with old family photographs, period fashion, ornate fixtures, a formal dining room, a child’s room and so much more.

Outside you can catch a glimpse of an old barn, one of the original servants’ houses, and take a tour of the gardens.

Guided tours are available Thursday through Monday for a $2.00 charge.  It is closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.

Other Things to See and Do in Apalachicola

Three Soldiers Detail Statue

In front of the Gorman House sits Veterans Memorial Park, with the Three Soldiers Detail Statue as its centerpiece.  The statue was dedicated in 2008 as a tribute to Vietnam Veterans from the south. Cast from the original molds of the statue located at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this statue is lifelike and humbling.

John Gorrie Museum State Park

Also known as the Ice Box Museum, this museum pays tribute to John Gorrie, a physician who moved to Apalachicola in the early 1830s. Gorrie was concerned for his yellow fever patients and wanted to find a way to cool their rooms.  As a result, he invented a mechanical device that produced ice, and received the first U.S. Patent for mechanical refrigeration in 1851.

Apalachicola Riverfront Park  

Riverfront Park overlooks the Apalachicola River and offers up a little more of the town’s history.  Read up on the sponge industry, watch the fishing boats go by or just enjoy sitting by the fountain.  The park also serves as the backdrop for many of the local events.

Fun Shops

There are always those stores in town you don’t want to miss.  In Apalachicola, it is The Tin Shed.  If you’re looking for something nautical, this is the place.  Don’t forget to stop by the buoy wall – it’s a popular place for photos.  (Note: Since this post was written originally, The Tin Shed has moved locations and the buoy wall is no longer there.)

Food and Drinks

With seafood as its main industry, Apalachicola serves up some great food in its many restaurants. One of our favorites is the Up the Creek Raw Bar.  Whether you sit inside or choose one of the tables outside, the food and the views are good.

While you’re in Apalachicola, don’t forget to stop by the Olde Time Soda Fountain.  It’s been dishing up these delicious treats since 1905.  Take your seat at the counter and order from a variety of flavors or shakes.  A great place to take the kids, but a word of warning, there are a lot of fun items in the gift shop that they’ll want to take home!

For the adults, make a stop by Oyster City Brewing Company on Avenue D.  If you’re looking for a cold beer brewed right here in Apalachicola, make plans to stop by.

Gone but Not Forgotten – The Venezellos

The few times I have visited Apalachicola always involved a stop in front of the Venezellos at the corner of Avenue E and Water Street.  The boat was built in 1915 in Apalachicola by Demo George (Demosthenes George Margomenos).  It always provided a great subject for photographs, even in its weathered state.  With each visit, the boat showed a little more wear.  A few more boards were rotten, the weeds grew taller.  Then, in October 2017, the boat was taken apart and removed.  A Facebook page has been set up by Demo George’s family to remember the boat through photos.

Fun Fact

Bing Crosby recorded the song “Apalachicola, F-L-A” in 1947 with the Andrews Sisters after meeting professional baseball player and Apalachicola native Jimmy Bloodworth.  Crosby was partial owner of the Pittsburgh Pirates and met Bloodworth in 1946, when he played for the Pirates.  When asked where he was from, Bloodworth said, “Apalachicola, F-L-A!”  The song was used in the move “The Road to Rio” starring Bing Crosby and Bob Hope.

For your listening enjoyment, Bing Crosby singing Apalachicola, F-L-A.

There are so many things to see and do in Apalachicola, one trip isn’t enough.  Two trips probably aren’t enough either.  History, food, shopping and so much more await the Florida explorer in all of us.

Photo Gallery from Apalachicola

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Lighthouses Along Florida’s Forgotten Coast

Lighthouses have been guiding the way for ships into Florida since the first one was built and lit in St. Augustine in 1824.  Besides the value they provide along the 1,350 miles of coastline, lighthouses also serve as symbols of strength and safety as well as beacons of hope.

Along a 75-mile stretch of US 98 in the Florida panhandle, three lighthouses stand tall, each with their own story to tell.

St. Marks Lighthouse

The drive to the St. Marks Lighthouse is scenic to say the least.  After entering the St. Marks Wildlife Refuge, it’s another seven miles to the lighthouse itself.  The slow drive takes you through pine flatwoods, tidal pools and marshes and if you look closely, you might just see alligators, birds and other wildlife, or a buoy washed in by a recent hurricane.

The lighthouse sits at the end of the road, at the mouth of the St. Marks River. The first structure, a hollow-walled tower built in 1830, was not accepted by the customs inspector and a second tower was built, this time with solid walls. But there were problems with the solid walls. Moisture could not evaporate and, as a result, cracks started forming as the structure settled. A tidal surge in 1837 caused even more problems. An inspector at the time determined the lighthouse was in “wretched condition” and had to be rebuilt immediately. Rebuilt again, with hollow walls, the lighthouse has guided ships and boaters to the entrance of the river for more than 180 years.  It stands 88 feet tall and includes 85 steps from the base to the top.  Seventy-two of those steps are wooden, the last 13 are iron.

The St. Marks Lighthouse was decommissioned by the Coast Guard and its ownership transferred to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service in 2013.  Its Fourth Order Fresnel lens was removed and sent to the Ponce de Leon Inlet Lighthouse Preservation Association for cleaning and preserving.  It is now in the Visitor Center at the refuge.

We hoped our visit would allow us the opportunity to climb the steps of the lighthouse and lookout over the river.  However, we were greeted by volunteers with the Friends of St. Marks Wildlife Refuge who informed us the lighthouse is closed to visitors while money is being raised for its preservation.  Once the money is raised and the work completed, the lighthouse will open again for tours.

Crooked River Lighthouse, Carrabelle

A little more than an hour west on 98 is the Crooked River Lighthouse in Carrabelle.  Built in 1895, its purpose was to provide guidance for timber ships and fishermen through the pass between Dog and St. George Islands. The 103-foot iron and steel structure was built on the mainland as a replacement to the three lighthouses that once stood on Dog Island.

The lighthouse was lit with what was believed to be the first bivalve fourth order lens installed in the United States at the time. It remained in the lighthouse until 1976 due to mercury leakage and is now in the Coast Guard’s district offices in New Orleans.  Crooked River was decommissioned in 1995, just shy of its 100th anniversary.   The lighthouse stood neglected for several years until ownership was transferred to the City of Carrabelle in 2001 and then leased to the Carrabelle Lighthouse Association. The lighthouse reopened in 2009, about 14 years after it was shut down.

A Keeper’s House Museum, an original outbuilding, a playground and the lighthouse all make up the Crooked River Lighthouse Park.  The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday from noon to 5:00 PM and, weather permitting, tower climbs are available for a small charge.

Cape St. George Light, St. George Island

The first lighthouse was built in 1833 on the western tip of St. George Island.  Three others followed it, including the current lighthouse, completed in 2008, which sits at the end of the four-mile bridge onto St. George Island, in the center of town.  The fact it was rebuilt is a testament to the community.  In 1995, Hurricane Opal wreaked havoc, washing the lighthouse from its foundation, and leaving other buildings in ruins.  As the tower began to lean over the years, the community stepped up efforts to “Save the Light.” Before they could decide whether to move it to a new location or shore it up where it was standing, the lighthouse collapsed into the Gulf of Mexico.  Pieces of the lighthouse were salvaged, as well as 22,000 bricks.  Those bricks are now visible inside the current lighthouse. With the original plans for the 1852 structure from the National Archives in Washington, D.C., the lighthouse was rebuilt in its current location.

The lighthouse contains 92 wooden spiral steps and an eight-rung metal ladder at the top.  A small scuttle hole of 24” x 21” permits passage to the lens.  Once at the top, the view is breathtaking, from the island itself to the waters of the Gulf of Mexico to St. George Sound and Apalachicola Bay.

A complete history of all four structures can be found inside the Lighthouse Keeper’s House, which serves as a museum and a gift shop. There is a small fee to climb the lighthouse, but it is worth it. The climb is easy until the metal ladder.  The opening to get to the top can be challenging to navigate.

With only 30 remaining lighthouses today, lighthouses are a big part of the history of Florida.  Some are now in the hands of local preservation societies and rely on funding to keep them maintained and open to the public.  You, too, can celebrate all things Florida by making plans to visit one of Florida’s remaining lighthouses.