Floridiana Magazine

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Boca Grande – More Than Just Tarpon Capital of the World

For more than 40 years, the Gulf Coast in Charlotte County has been my vacation go-to spot.  Pristine beaches.  Clear water.  Amazing sunsets.  From my favorite beach on Manasota Key, I can easily travel to other towns offering old Florida charm, whether it’s with comparable views or other amenities.  During my recent vacation, I visited Boca Grande, also known as Tarpon Capital of the World – but it is much more than that.

Boca Grande Beginnings – Phosphate and Fishing

Like many Florida towns, the first inhabitants of Boca Grande were the Calusa Indians, a hunting and fishing tribe, who lived on the island from about 900 A.D. to the mid-1700s, when they all but disappeared due to European diseases, slavery and warfare.

Situated on Gasparilla Island, about 100 miles south of Tampa, Boca Grande Pass is one of the deepest natural inlets in Florida.  Its location between Charlotte Harbor and the Gulf of Mexico contributed to its early beginnings in  phosphate and, to this day, fishing.  Tarpon congregate at the Pass because of the depth, with estimates of as many as 10,000 of the fish in the Pass at a time, weighing anywhere from 50 to 200 pounds.

Besides fishing, the discovery of phosphate turned Boca Grande into a deep-water port.  In the late 1800s, phosphate was found along the banks of the Peace River, which enters Charlotte Harbor about 20 miles away. The mineral was placed on barges and taken to Port Boca Grande, where it was placed on ships for worldwide distribution. A wooden cleat the ships once tied to on the docks is on display at the lighthouse museum.  Remnants of the docks can still be seen offshore.

In an effort to provide a more efficient way of getting the phosphate from the river to the ships, a railroad was built and carried phosphate and supplies from 1907 to 1979. In fact, in 1969, Port Boca Grande ranked as the fourth busiest port in Florida.

The railroad also opened the area for wealthy individuals from the north to visit the island. Over the years, visitors to this piece of paradise have included names like Vanderbilt and DuPont.

The end of the railroad came in 1979 after years of dwindling port traffic.  Phosphate companies had switched to ports in Tampa and Manatee County and the industry in Boca Grande came to an end. Today, along what used to be the original railroad right-of-way is a seven-mile bike path.

Gasparilla Island State Park

At the southern tip of Gasparilla Island is the Gasparilla Island State Park. Getting into the park will cost you $3.00 per car, but it’s a small price to pay for the beauty and peace of the beach.  Pristine waters, a wide swath of white sand, and views of pelicans, manatees and fish jumping provide a true Florida experience.

Sea Oats, protected by law, aid in the prevention of beach erosion

Pelicans at rest

Manatee swimming offshore

Port Boca Grande Lighthouse and Museum

The Port Boca Grande Lighthouse, the centerpiece of the park, is the oldest structure on the island, guiding mariners since 1890. The lighthouse is a one-story structure with a tower protruding from the top of the roof.  A second, nearly identical building sits next to the lighthouse and once served as the living quarters for the assistant keeper. The lighthouse was donated by the Federal Government to Lee County in 1972, then placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. The lighthouse, fully restored in 1985-86, is visible up to 12 miles away when lit.  A museum and gift shop make up the interior of the lighthouse, but make sure to check out the hours before you go as they vary with the seasons.

Port Boca Grande Lighthouse and Assistant Keeper’s Living Quarters

Gasparilla Island Lighthouse

Besides the lighthouse at the Park, there is a second lighthouse on the island, the Gasparilla Island Lighthouse. This lighthouse was built in Lewes, Delaware in 1888 and was moved and reconstructed in its present location in 1927.  It was first lit in 1932 and flashed every six seconds during evening hours. Like the Boca Grande Lighthouse, it played a critical role in guiding phosphate ships into port.  After decades of decline, the lighthouse was restored in 2018 and opened for climbs.  The structure is 105 feet tall, with 134 steps up a black metal spiral staircase.  It’s said to offer the best view in town, and when climbs start again in October, you can bet we will be there to make the climb and see for ourselves.

Taken during a visit to the island in 2015, prior to restoration

Post restoration

Other Things to See in Boca Grande

While a visit to the park, the beach and the lighthouses is enough to fill a day, there are other things to see and do while in Boca Grande.  The Gasparilla Inn is a cornerstone of the community. Built in 1912, it provided lodging for wealthy northerners coming to Florida during the time when the state became a travel and vacation destination.  Over the years, guests have included Henry Ford, Thomas Edison, and President George H.W. Bush. The Inn was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places on March 18, 2008. Even if you don’t stay there, you can visit and view the grand splendor of the hotel and its property.

A leisurely drive through town reveals a quaint shopping district.  In what was at one time the railroad depot, there are now a number of shops, offices and The Loose Caboose Restaurant.  Other historic buildings, including churches, also add to the charm of this island.

St. Andrews Episcopal Church

First Baptist Church of Boca Grande

Getting to Boca Grande

There are numerous ways to get to the island, depending on where you begin.  Once you actually get to the entrance to the island, there is a $6.00 charge per car to get onto the island.

While Boca Grande shares some of the same characteristics of other Florida coastal towns, it is quieter, more laid back, and less crowded.  Spend a day or spend a week, Boca Grande is one of those locations that offers a true Florida experience.  Sun, sand, surf, or shops – there’s something for about everyone.

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Harry P. Leu Gardens, Orlando

No matter where you live in the state, chances are there are a few places nearby where you can disappear for a few hours and experience natural Florida.  Even in cities like Orlando, parks and gardens provide respite from the hectic pace.  You’ll find one of those locations just a short drive from downtown – Harry P. Leu Gardens.

I’ve driven by the entrance off Virginia Drive and Corrine many times in my 25-plus years in Orlando.  It wasn’t until I stopped for the first time years ago that I discovered this serene sanctuary in the city.

Who Was Harry P. Leu?

Harry P. Leu was born in Orlando in 1884 and went on to build one of the largest supply businesses in Florida.  He purchased the property on Lake Rowena in 1936 and filled it with plants he gathered in his travels around the world, with the camelia being one of his specialties.

The centerpiece of the Gardens is Harry and Mary Jane Leu’s house.  The house was restored to its grandeur and provided a look at turn-of-the-century Florida living.  It was added to the National Register of Historic Places December 29, 1994.  At the time of this post, the Leu House Museum is closed due to damage from Hurricane Irma in 2017.

In 1961, Leu deeded the property to the City of Orlando and the gardens were opened to the public.

Gardens and Exhibits

The Garden House serves as the welcome center to the gardens and is home to the gift shop, exhibit halls and classrooms, and a botanical library.  Once you walk out the doors, you are surrounded by the beauty of individual gardens.  Take a leisurely stroll around the pond in the Tropical Stream Garden or get ideas for your own yard in the Idea Garden. Winding walkways provide an easy trek through 50 acres of camellias, magnolias, ferns, and other botanical beauties.  Stop and smell the roses.  Or take a walk among the towering camphor trees.

Floral Clock

Another feature of the Gardens is the Floral Clock which sits behind the rose garden.  The 50-foot clock was imported from Scotland in 1966 and was donated by the Kiwanis Club of Orlando.

In addition to the gardens, fun exhibits provide guests with interactive experiences.  During our visit, The Ribbit Exhibit II (November 1, 2018 – January 31, 2019) sent us on a hunt for 26 whimsical frogs.  Sculpted out of copper, these frogs could be found meditating in a pond, watering plants, trimming hedges, riding bikes and jamming out on a washboard with the Ribbitsville Band.

Other exhibits have included dinosaurs, fairy doors and Lego sculptures.  Keep an eye on the website for future exhibits.  You don’t want to miss them.

Classes and Workshops

If you want more ideas for your own gardens, try one of the classes or workshops that are offered for folks of all ages.  Whether you want to learn the basics of growing orchids, or how to use lemons in your cooking, there is something for everyone.  Make sure to check out the calendar of events to find the right class for you.

Admission and Location

To get a complete picture of what Leu Gardens has to offer, make plans to see for yourself.  The Gardens are open every day (except Christmas Day) from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. The price of admission is $10 for adults, $5 for children 4 – 17, and Leu Gardens members and children three and under get in free.  To get there from downtown Orlando, take I-4 east to Princeton Street and follow the signs to Leu Gardens located at 1920 North Forest Avenue, Orlando.

Enjoy more of our photographs from the Gardens, but be sure to visit and see the beauty for yourself.

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Things to See and Do in Apalachicola

There are some places you can visit over and over again and not see everything there is to see or do everything there is to do.  Those same places change over time and, from one visit to the next, may not offer the same “landmarks” you made it a point to see.  One such town is Apalachicola, on Florida’s Forgotten Coast.  As its name translates, it is the “land of the friendly people.”

Brief History of Apalachicola

Even though Apalachicola wasn’t settled until the 1820s, its history goes back much further – Native Americans thousands of years ago, along with European influence by the Spanish and English.  Florida was ceded to United States in 1821.  Originally named Cottonton, then incorporated as West Point, it was renamed Apalachicola in 1831.

As you drive over the bridge on US 98 heading west, the history of Apalachicola is easy to understand.  Its location along the Apalachicola River where it meets Apalachicola Bay, set this town up as a port for shipping – making it at one time the third largest cotton shipping port on the Gulf of Mexico.  Besides cotton, Apalachicola also thrived in the sponge and timber industries.  The sponge trade, beginning in the 1870s, became the third largest in the state.  One of the original sponge warehouses, The Sponge Exchange, remains in downtown Apalachicola.

Another major industry in Apalachicola, and one that remains today, is the seafood industry. Apalachicola is known throughout the United States for its oysters.

Historic Homes in Apalachicola

A drive through the historic district of Apalachicola is like a drive back in time. There are more than 900 historic homes, buildings and other sites within the district to see, ten of them designated as Florida Heritage Landmarks. A couple you don’t want to miss include the Dr. Alvan W. Chapman House, the Hanserd-Fry House, and perhaps the most famous in Apalachicola, the Orman House.

Dr. Alvan W. Chapman House – This house was built in 1847 for Dr. Chapman who, besides being a physician, was also a botanist.  He is known for his research and writings on the flora of the South.  Chapman was very active in Apalachicola, having served as county judge, mayor and collector of customs.

Hanserd-Fry House –  Located on 5th Street, the Hanserd-Fry House was built around 1845 and served as the residence of several individuals.  The first-known owner was Joseph Hanserd who lived there as early as 1866, followed by Kate Ayers in 1872, with Captain Weber Fry buying it in 1880.  Fry was a riverboat captain on the Apalachicola River. The house served as the Apalachicola Museum of Art from 2006 – 2016 and now is the office and visitor center for the St. Vincent National Wildlife Refuge.

The Orman House – The Orman House is a Florida State Park and sits on a bluff overlooking the Apalachicola River. It is a must see on a visit to Apalachicola.  The house was built in 1838 by Thomas Orman, a cotton merchant and businessman credited with being a key to the success of the town.

Touring this stately home takes you back to the 1800s.  As you walk through the house, you get a glimpse of the Orman family lifestyle.  The house is filled with old family photographs, period fashion, ornate fixtures, a formal dining room, a child’s room and so much more.

Outside you can catch a glimpse of an old barn, one of the original servants’ houses, and take a tour of the gardens.

Guided tours are available Thursday through Monday for a $2.00 charge.  It is closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.

Other Things to See and Do in Apalachicola

Three Soldiers Detail Statue

In front of the Gorman House sits Veterans Memorial Park, with the Three Soldiers Detail Statue as its centerpiece.  The statue was dedicated in 2008 as a tribute to Vietnam Veterans from the south. Cast from the original molds of the statue located at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this statue is lifelike and humbling.

John Gorrie Museum State Park

Also known as the Ice Box Museum, this museum pays tribute to John Gorrie, a physician who moved to Apalachicola in the early 1830s. Gorrie was concerned for his yellow fever patients and wanted to find a way to cool their rooms.  As a result, he invented a mechanical device that produced ice, and received the first U.S. Patent for mechanical refrigeration in 1851.

Apalachicola Riverfront Park  

Riverfront Park overlooks the Apalachicola River and offers up a little more of the town’s history.  Read up on the sponge industry, watch the fishing boats go by or just enjoy sitting by the fountain.  The park also serves as the backdrop for many of the local events.

Fun Shops

There are always those stores in town you don’t want to miss.  In Apalachicola, it is The Tin Shed.  If you’re looking for something nautical, this is the place.  Don’t forget to stop by the buoy wall – it’s a popular place for photos.  (Note: Since this post was written originally, The Tin Shed has moved locations and the buoy wall is no longer there.)

Food and Drinks

With seafood as its main industry, Apalachicola serves up some great food in its many restaurants. One of our favorites is the Up the Creek Raw Bar.  Whether you sit inside or choose one of the tables outside, the food and the views are good.

While you’re in Apalachicola, don’t forget to stop by the Olde Time Soda Fountain.  It’s been dishing up these delicious treats since 1905.  Take your seat at the counter and order from a variety of flavors or shakes.  A great place to take the kids, but a word of warning, there are a lot of fun items in the gift shop that they’ll want to take home!

For the adults, make a stop by Oyster City Brewing Company on Avenue D.  If you’re looking for a cold beer brewed right here in Apalachicola, make plans to stop by.

Gone but Not Forgotten – The Venezellos

The few times I have visited Apalachicola always involved a stop in front of the Venezellos at the corner of Avenue E and Water Street.  The boat was built in 1915 in Apalachicola by Demo George (Demosthenes George Margomenos).  It always provided a great subject for photographs, even in its weathered state.  With each visit, the boat showed a little more wear.  A few more boards were rotten, the weeds grew taller.  Then, in October 2017, the boat was taken apart and removed.  A Facebook page has been set up by Demo George’s family to remember the boat through photos.

Fun Fact

Bing Crosby recorded the song “Apalachicola, F-L-A” in 1947 with the Andrews Sisters after meeting professional baseball player and Apalachicola native Jimmy Bloodworth.  Crosby was partial owner of the Pittsburgh Pirates and met Bloodworth in 1946, when he played for the Pirates.  When asked where he was from, Bloodworth said, “Apalachicola, F-L-A!”  The song was used in the move “The Road to Rio” starring Bing Crosby and Bob Hope.

For your listening enjoyment, Bing Crosby singing Apalachicola, F-L-A.

There are so many things to see and do in Apalachicola, one trip isn’t enough.  Two trips probably aren’t enough either.  History, food, shopping and so much more await the Florida explorer in all of us.

Photo Gallery from Apalachicola

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Lukas Nursery and Butterfly Encounter: It’s More than Just a Nursery

Who would think a plant nursery would be included on a list of places to go in Florida? Besides having everything you need for your garden, Lukas Nursery offers an hour or so of good old family fun, plus there is a century of history behind it. Not to mention, it is considered one of the top 25 largest attractions in Central Florida.

Butterfly Encounter

Sometimes you just happen across one of those unexpected finds; you go someplace for one reason, and find something completely surprising.  The Butterfly Encounter is one of those places.  Although our first visit was about four years ago, there’s nothing like experiencing it through the eyes of a child.  From the walk up the pathway to the encounter itself, it is just plain cool.

Just inside the gift shop, you receive a laminated card with photo identifiers of all the butterflies (and birds) you may see, along with a quick tutorial on why you cannot touch any of these winged wonders outside the refueling station. (More on that later.)

The Butterfly Encounter delivers on the experience.  The screened-in, garden-like setting provides butterflies ample space to flit among the plants, getting their fill of the nectar while offering photo opportunities to even the youngest of photographers.

A new experience awaits you around every turn of the meandering pathway, including the “Caterpillar Flight School.” Perhaps the most fun, for kids and adults alike, is the Butterfly Refueling Station – a place where a dab of sugar water on your fingertips makes you the source of their food.  Don’t be surprised if they land elsewhere – to the delight of some, uncertainty to others.

When we asked my granddaughter Story her favorite part of the encounter, she said, “Seeing all the butterflies. And when it landed on my dress!”

No matter where you look, whether it’s in the trees or along the path, you’re sure to see more than just butterflies. This 4,000 square foot conservatory also serves as home to a covey of button quail and a number of brightly colored finches.

On the way out, don’t forget to take a good look around the gift shop.  If you need a unique present, you’re sure to find something for just about anyone on your list.

The Butterfly Encounter is open year-round, but the best time to see the butterflies is April through September.  The hours are from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., but the last admission into the encounter is at 3:30.  There is a $6.00 charge for anyone over the age of three.

Lukas Nursery

The fun doesn’t end with the Butterfly Encounter.  The nursery itself offers a relaxing walk among thousands of varieties of plants, from the ordinary to the exotic.

If you’re in the market for some unique garden art, then Lukas is the right place!  Not to mention, the statues provide even more entertainment for your kids or grandkids.

Noah loves all of the statues!

Lukas Nursery and Butterfly Encounter is a fourth-generation agricultural business and has grown from 50 one-gallon cans of woody ornamental plants to about 25 acres of plants, a garden shop and the butterfly encounter.

History of the Lukas Family

The nursery has been serving Central Florida for more than 100 years.  Paul and Mary Lukas, both Czechoslovakian immigrants, along with six other families, moved from Ohio to Florida in 1911. They settled in an area in what is now Seminole County and, in keeping with their European roots, named it Slavia.  Signs of the original settlement can still be seen – on road signs or an abandoned building just down the street from the nursery.

The family began farming in 1912 and has remained in the same location for its 100 + years. Over the years, improvements have been made, services added and the business expanded.  The one constant, however, has been the family.  (You can read more about the family and the business on the nursery’s website.)

Lukas Nursery sits on Slavia Road between Highway 417 and West State Road 426 near Oviedo.  Whether you are looking for a place to buy plants for your house or a place to spend an hour or so with your kids or grandkids, Lukas is the place.

The Sponge Docks at Tarpon Springs

What I have found in my quest to “celebrate all things Florida” is it is sometimes impossible to see all there is to see or do all there is to do in a one-day excursion.  If you have ever been to Tarpon Springs, you know what I mean.  We made it to the docks, but not to the historic downtown area.  Even at the docks we didn’t have time to get the full experience.

Brief History of Tarpon Springs

Tarpon Springs is known as the “Sponge Capital of the World.”  Sponge boats line the docks, their sponges visible to the visitors who walk up and down the waterfront.

Boats line the docks in Tarpon Springs | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Sponges

Sponges are available for purchase

The history of the sponge industry goes back to the late 1800s, with two men receiving credit for the industry in Tarpon Springs: John Cheyney and John Cocoris.  Cheyney began sponging with a technique known as hooking and launched his first boat around 1890.  Cocoris, a Greek hired by Cheyney, was brought in to streamline sponging and introduced the technique of diving in 1905.

Acknowledgement of their contributions to the industry can be found in several places around town.

During the 1920s, sponge diving became the largest industry in Florida, with Tarpon Springs the major hub of the activity.

Sponging has fallen to tourism, but is still profitable and helps support the economy either directly or indirectly through the number of tourists it draws to the area.

Greek Influence in Tarpon Springs

Greek sponge divers were some of the first to descend on Tarpon Springs.  Everywhere you look, whether it’s the buildings or the restaurants, that influence can be seen throughout the city.  Tarpon Springs has the highest percentage of Greek Americans of any city in the United States.  Old buildings bear the name of early divers and residents, while Greek food offers a taste of Greece – from traditional fare to flavorful pastries.

John M. Gonatos, a sponge diver, also owned a curio shop

Delicious Greek pastries

Shops and Restaurants in Tarpon Springs

As a popular tourist spot, shops and restaurants line the streets down by the docks.  The typical souvenirs fill the shelves or in bins outside shop doors, enticing visitors to walk inside.

Street view along the  Tarpon Springs docks

Florida souvenirs

A marketplace-type area is “home” to many stores and serves as anchor to The Sponge Exchange.  The market boasts an open-air feel, although most of the stores are housed inside adjoining buildings.  Street musicians “serenade” shoppers, adding to the festive atmosphere.  And there are plenty of opportunities for photos!

One of the shopping areas

Picture time!

Another photo opportunity also serves as a history lesson. The brightly painted Aegean Isles reveals its initial use as a sponge boat that then as a Navy air-sea rescue boat during World War II.  Once the war was over, it returned to its original purpose for sponging until it was decommissioned in 1982.

History on display

Other Things to Do in Tarpon Springs

There is something for just about everyone in Tarpon Springs. For people of all ages, dolphin cruises offer a seafaring adventure or a sponge diving trip where you hear about the history and witness a sponge harvesting demonstration.

Another fun spot for the kids is the Tarpon Springs Aquarium.  It features shark and ray shows, an eel encounter, a gator feeding show and a snake demo.

Hidden Beaches

A visit to Tarpon Springs should also include two hidden gems.  Not too far from the docks are two beautiful locations to enjoy the Florida sun – beaches that don’t usually show up on the list of the best. The first is Sunset Beach, at the end of Gulf Drive.  The city park offers a great place to swim, picnic and view a breathtaking sunset.  There is also a playground for kids and a boat ramp for those wanting to take to the water for boating or fishing.

Sunset Beach

The other location is Fred Howard Park, a 155-acre Pinellas County Park.  The park includes pavilions, playgrounds, and nature trails and protects many Florida habitats like sea grass beds and mangrove estuaries.  It is also home to some endangered species such as eagles and gopher tortoises.

Fred Howard Park

One of the biggest surprises of the park, if you’ve never been there before, is the mile-long causeway to the Gulf of Mexico.  Along the causeway, sunbathers sit in the Gulf waters or enjoy water-sports.

The Causeway leading to the beach

Water bikes provide hours of fun

At the end, white sandy beaches and a spectacular view of the Gulf of Mexico await you.  Imagine sitting here and watching a golden sun sink into the water.

The beach at Fred Howard Park: a hidden gem

Tarpon Springs is one of those places that everyone should visit at least once.  Plan on getting there early and staying all day to get the full experience. Or, if you can, plan on a weekend trip.  That way you’re sure to get in all there is to offer – or at least most of it.