Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

A Visitor’s Guide to Devil’s Millhopper

Exploring Florida can take on many twists and turns, ups and downs.  For visitors to Devil’s Millhopper Geological State Park in Gainesville, that exploration literally takes you down to a sinkhole that has attracted curious individuals since the late 1800s.

What is Devil’s Millhopper?

Devil’s Millhopper, 120 feet deep and about 500 feet across, formed when the limestone underneath it collapsed.  More than 100 feet of geologic rock layers make it unique as it is one of the few places in Florida where they are exposed.  The further down you go into the sinkhole, the older the rocks.  Established as a state park in 1974, it was also named a National Natural Landmark in 1976.

Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

How Did Devil’s Millhopper Get its Name?

As is the case with other Florida locations, there are several tales told to explain how Devil’s Millhopper got its name. One says the devil kidnapped a Native American princess and created the sinkhole to trap her rescuers.  The other claims early visitors, who found bones and fossils at the bottom, believed animals and beasts went there to meet the devil.  In reality, it was named because of its shape – a funnel-like shape similar to one you find at the bottom of a grain hopper on a farm.

Visitor’s Center

You can learn more about the Millhopper inside the Visitor’s Center at the entrance to the park.  Make sure to stop, pick up a brochure about the sink, or ask the park ranger on duty any questions you might have.  Interactive exhibits inside provide more information about how it formed and what has been found at the bottom.

Visitor Center at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The Walk Down

Even though I lived in Gainesville about 30 years ago, I never made it to Devil’s Millhopper.  Now I know what I was missing.  A walk to the bottom takes you away from the noise of the city into a peaceful rainforest-like setting that offers picturesque views of ferns and other vegetation, along with small waterfalls and streams. On the day of our visit, those views included bright turquoise water and turtles sitting on old tree branches that had fallen into the water.  The water level in the sink is dependent on the amount of rainfall.

Sinkhole at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Turtle on log at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

At one time there were 232 stairs you would have to walk down to get to the sinkhole, but Hurricane Irma in 2017 caused extensive damage and the stairs had to be rebuilt.  Now there are 132 steps and they are relatively easy to manage.  Just remember, going back up is still a little tougher than going down.

Boardwalk leading to the sinkhole | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Hiking the Trail

Besides the stairs down to the sinkhole, there’s a hiking trail that takes you along the rim. Before Hurricane Irma, the trail was a complete loop around the top of the sink, taking you over a bridge that crosses a gully flowing into the sink.  Due to safety concerns, the bridge is currently closed, and your hike will have to be modified.  As you walk the trail, make sure to look all around you.  There are some amazing sites to be seen if you take the time.

Along the trail at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Visiting Basics

Devil’s Millhopper is part of the Florida State Parks System and is located off County Road 232 in northwest Gainesville.  Before Hurricane Irma, 60,000 people visited the park per year.  Without the steps down to the sink, that number decreased, but park officials are expecting it to go back up now that the new boardwalk is open.

The park is open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 Wednesday through Sunday and is closed Monday and Tuesday.  A $4.00 per vehicle fee is collected at a cash box at the entrance to the parking lot.  Of course, if you have an annual pass to the State Parks, you can write in your pass number on the envelope and the hang tag for your car and forego the charge.

Pack a lunch and a bottle or two of water, take your camera, and wear closed-toe shoes.  It’s definitely a trip worth taking.

Interesting Fact:  Construction on the new boardwalk had to be delayed a year because funds were diverted to parks devastated by Hurricane Michael (2018) in the Panhandle.  Those funds were reallocated for Devil’s Millhopper in 2019 with construction beginning in January and finishing in June.

 

Other Things to Do Nearby

If you are looking for other things to do while in Gainesville, here are a few of our favorites:

Dudley Farm Historic State Park –  Located in Newberry, this farm portrays life on a farm in the mid-to-late 1800s.

UF Bat Houses – Join others along Museum Road on the University of Florida campus for the nightly exodus of  400,000 bats.  The show starts about 15 to 20 minutes after sundown.

Sweetwater Wetlands Park – The park is a man-made habitat located on the north end of Paynes Prairie on Williston Road in Gainesville.  There are more than three and a half miles of easy trails on 125 acres, with amazing views of plants, animals, and more than 215 species of birds.  If you are lucky, you may get a chance to see the wild horses or the bison roaming the prairie.

 

Silver Springs

Florida and theme parks. If you’ve lived in the state for more than 50 years, you no doubt remember Florida without Walt Disney World. You probably also remember Silver Springs Nature Theme Park – considered to be Florida’s first tourist attraction.

History of Silver Springs

Although Silver Springs didn’t officially open to the public until 1878, it was a popular spot for visitors years earlier when they arrived by steamboat.  Silver Springs became known for its glass bottom boat rides – thanks to the ingenuity of Hullam Jones and Phillip Monell who affixed a piece of glass to the bottom of a row boat in the late 1870s.  They were only 14-years old at the time.

Silver Springs hit its heyday in the 1960s, when as many as 5,000 people were there daily during the week, and 6,000 – 7,000 on Saturdays and Sundays.  Back then, there were amusement park rides, exotic wildlife, a reptile institute, and a bear exhibit which was billed as the largest of its kind in the world.

As was the case for other early attractions, attendance dropped for a variety of reasons, and in 2013 the State of Florida took over operations and combined it with the nearby Silver River State Park, transforming it into Silver Springs State Park.

Movies and Television Shows

The theme park served the backdrop for television shows and movies from the 1930s through the 1960s, hosting movies like “Tarzan the Ape Man” starring Johnny Weissmuller, along with five more Tarzan movies and the James Bond movie “Moonraker.”  Also filmed at Silver Springs were the “Creature from the Black Lagoon,” as well as the television series “Sea Hunt” starring Lloyd Bridges. The Sea Hunt dock, named after the show, offers a photo opportunity for today’s visitors.

Glass-Bottom Boat Tours

The highlight of our visit was the half-hour ride on one of the famous glass-bottom boats.  About 25 of us sat along the edge of the boat with an amazing view of the crystal-clear water, long-nosed gar, and aquatic plant life below, not to mention a glimpse of a gator swimming nearby and turtles sitting atop tree stumps along the water’s edge.

As the boat floated along, our captain provided an historic, and at times, humorous overview of the Silver Springs area.  Whether it was to provide a narrative of the Native Americans who lived around the Springs in the 1500s, the story of the bridal chamber, or the dugout canoe sitting on the bottom of the spring bed, the tour was interesting and informative.

An old glass-bottom boat rests at the bottom of the springs, along with three statues used in the making of the James Bond movie “Moonraker.”

No matter what was pointed out as part of the tour boat ride, the captain circled the boat around for everyone to get a good view.

Dugout Canoe

Glass-bottom Boat

Statues from Moonraker

Other Things to Do

As a state park, Silver Springs offers plenty of opportunities for those who enjoy spending time in nature. Canoes and kayaks can be seen gliding along the springs.  Take your own or rent them at the outpost.

If that isn’t on your favorites list, take a leisurely stroll along some of the walkways or boardwalks that weave through the park.  Keep an eye on the ground and up in the trees.  You never know what you might see – beautiful flowers, snakes, woodpeckers, and if you are fortunate, monkeys (although we didn’t get to see any of the monkeys on our visit).

A statue of Seminole Chief Osceola also holds a prominent place in the park. The plaque at the base of the statue relates the importance of Osceola’s presence at the Springs and the relationship to the Great Seminole War of 1835 – 1842. As the plaque states, Osceola led a small band of warriors in the Seminole resistance, when the United States tried to remove the tribe from their lands in Florida.

 

Another must-see is the “lucky” or “honeymoon” tree.  Legend has it that if you have your picture taken with it, you will have good luck for five years.  It’s definitely worth a snap of the camera if good luck is on the line!

The Lucky Tree

Hours of Operation and Admission

Silver Springs State Park is open 365 days a year from 8:00 a.m. until sunset.  As a state park, the price of admission is $2.00.  However, if you’re planning to take one of the famous glass bottom boat rides, those will cost extra.

Boat Tours

The 30-minute tour runs every 30 – 45 minutes until 6:00 p.m.  The cost starts at $11.00 per person and you do not need a reservation.

The extended tour lasts about an hour and a half and starts at $25 per person.  These tours only run Friday through Sunday and reservations are recommended.

Whether you plan on a boat tour or just to spend the day enjoying nature, a trip to Silver Springs is worth the time – and the money. It may not be the theme park it was during its heyday, but it does provide a peaceful place to get out and enjoy Florida’s outdoors. Unlike other roadside attractions, Silver Spring was able to change and survive the times.

Silver Springs Fun Facts
  • There are 30 springs with 61 vents (openings for water flow).
  • The largest Mammoth or main spring you see at the park has vent measuring 5 feet by 135 feet with a depth of 30 feet.
  • Silver Springs forms the Silver River, flowing 4 ½ miles to the Ocklawaha River.
  • The water temperature is 72° year-round.

FM Note: If you have pictures of Silver Springs during its heyday, please share them on our Facebook page:  Floridiana Magazine.

View more of our photos from the day in the slideshow below.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Britton Hill, Florida’s Highest Point

When you think of a highest point in the United States, what comes to mind? Mt. McKinley in Alaska?  Mt. Mitchell in North Carolina?  What about Britton Hill?  If you’ve never heard of Britton Hill, make sure you put it on your list of places to visit in Florida.  Why?  It just so happens to be the highest point in the Sunshine State.

Britton Hill is located at Lakewood Park just inside the state line that divides Walton County in Florida from Alabama.  It got its name from a former lumber mill baron, William Henry Britton who developed the area in the early 1900s.  The highest point is actually more of a plateau, about 900 feet by 400 feet.  At a staggering 345 feet, this peak offers a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside and also carries the honor of being the lowest high point in the U.S.

A monument marking this dubious distinction sits steps from the parking lot.  To get a glimpse of the monument or take a selfie next to it, you won’t even have to break a sweat.  However, if you do find yourself short-winded, there is a bench by the monument so you can rest a little.

A few Florida comparisons

Just how high is 345 feet?  If you are familiar with Florida “landmarks,” here are a few comparisons to consider:

  • The Majesty Building (aka the I-4 Eye Sore) is 307 feet tall.
  • The Vehicle Assembly Building (VAB) at Kennedy Space Center is 525 feet.
  • Chinsegut Hill in Hernando County, just north of Brooksville, is 269 feet.

A few U.S. comparisons

Mt. McKinley in Denali, Alaska is the highest point in the United States at 20,237 feet.  Other “low” high points include:

  • Delaware – Ebright Azimuth at 448 feet
  • Louisiana – Driskell Mountain at 535 feet
  • Mississippi – Woodall Mountain at 806 feet
  • Rhode Island – Jerimoth Hill at 812 feet

While Britton Hill may not seem like a hiker’s dream, it is actually an internationally-known must-do peak.  A group of mountain climbers known as the Highpointers Club, attempt to climb the highest point in each of the lower 48 states.  So far, about 500 of them have achieved that feat – which includes “climbing” Britton Hill.

Other things to do

If the climb to the top doesn’t wear you out, there are hiking trails at the park which offer an easy walk through the small hardwood forest and are all less than a mile in length. Lakewood Park also offers a picnic area and a restroom.

How to get there

Britton Hill is located in the Florida panhandle.  If you’re out driving, take Interstate 10 to Exit 85 – US 331/SR 83 toward DeFuniak Springs.  Follow 331 to County Road 285.  Turn north onto CR 285 and go about three miles.  Britton Hill will be on the left.

Make sure to take your camera and document your climb!

Trapper Nelson’s Zoo and Jungle Gardens

If you’ve been following along with our adventures, you know that many of them take us off the beaten path. Well, recently that changed. Instead of a path, it was a river. The destination?  An old tourist attraction even Tarzan would appreciate.

Trapper Nelson Interpretive Site

Three miles down the Loxahatchee River, where it meanders through the Jonathan Dickinson State Park in Hobe Sound, is Trapper Nelson’s Zoo and Jungle Garden, or what is left of it. The site is accessible only by canoe, boat or by tour boat.  On the day of our visit, we chose the tour boat, the Loxahatchee Queen III, piloted that day by Captain Dan.  The slow excursion offered views of tropical vegetation and wildlife – manatees lazily gliding through the water, an eagle soaring above, an osprey perched in a dead tree and an alligator hiding along the shore line.    

Osprey
Alligator 

Damsel Fly hitchhiking on the Loxahatchee Queen III

As our tour boat turned around near Trapper’s camp, we were dropped off near the original boat dock built by Nelson. Stepping off the boat, a park staff member greeted us and took us on a walking tour of Nelson’s camp. The hand-built Chickee hut, a water tower and Trapper’s cabin still stand. Inside the cabin, a museum of sorts is set up to portray Trapper’s life and his eccentricities. Photos of his early life on the river, his military career, and other memorabilia are on display for present-day visitors to see. A framed photo of coins found by park rangers during restoration supports the tales that Trapper was known for hiding money around his property. In 1984, more than 5,000 coins worth about $1,800 were discovered when mortar was pulled away near his fireplace.

Original boat dock built by Trapper Nelson
Huts
Water Tower 
One of two cabins on site
Memorabilia on display inside the cabin
Faded photo of coins found during camp restoration

Woodpiles still stand, a testament to the amount of wood Trapper would chop for himself.  A guest cabin that once welcomed visitors to the camp, is relatively bare, stripped clean by vandals following Nelson’s death. Many of the cages Nelson built to house the animals are still on the property.  Signs on the cages indicate what was once there – alligators, wildcats, and raccoons.

Wood pile 
The zoo 
Nelson’s Jeep on display

History of Trapper Nelson’s Zoo and Jungle Garden 

Trapper Nelson (aka Vincent Natulkiewicz) made his way to the area from New Jersey, accompanied by his brother Charlie and a friend, first heading west to Colorado by way of boxcars, and then to Mexico. It was there where Trapper was detained by Mexican officials on suspicion of gun-running.  His brother and friend were not captured.  Several weeks later, and with no real evidence against him, Nelson was released.  His next venture west to California proved to be unsuccessful and after a few weeks, he decided to return to New Jersey to meet up with his brother and friend.  It didn’t take long for the trio to decide to head south, eventually ending up in Jupiter.

Upon his arrival in 1931, he settled into a temporary hunting camp near the Jupiter Inlet, where he lived off the land, trapping animals and selling their hides. However, development meant less game, so in 1933 Nelson traveled up the Loxahatchee in a rowboat and set up his homestead where it is today.  Nelson continued to live off the land and would row nine miles to Jupiter to pick up his mail, buy supplies and sell his wares.  Although Nelson was considered a loner, as people learned of his camp, he became known as the “Wildman of the Loxahatchee.” It is said he could be seen jumping from a rope swing into the river.

Trapper Nelson with one of his alligators. 
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Dickinson State Park

In the mid-1940s, Nelson turned his property into a wildlife zoo.  For the next 15 years or so, visitors from around the world came to see him wrestle alligators and wrap himself up in snakes. Folks who visited the site could stay in one of his cabins, buy souvenirs or rent rowboats, and of course, get a close up look at the many animals he had trapped.  Nelson used a lot of his profits buying up land at tax sales.  In all, he purchased nearly 1,000 acres along the river. 

Trapper chose to close his attraction to tourists in the early 1960s, citing his distrust of people, and ongoing rules and regulations by the state to keep it open.  A sign still hangs on one of the trees over the river warning people to keep out.  It is rumored that he would take shots at people who ventured too close.

The words are no longer visible, but what appear to be bullet holes remain

Little was heard from Trapper Nelson from the time he closed his zoo until he was found shot to death in 1968, his shotgun beside him.  Authorities ruled his death a suicide, although there are still some folks who believe he was a victim of foul play.

During his life, Nelson was actively engaged in efforts to preserve the Loxahatchee River and protect his land. After his death, his estate was sold to a developer, but a land swap with the Florida Park Service made it part of Jonathan Dickinson State Park, where it has been preserved and protected.

Hours 

Trapper’s is open 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., 7 days a week,although the schedule may vary throughout the year.  If you are going specifically for the tour,call at 561-746-1466 or visit their website.  In addition to the cost of park admission, the ride on the Loxahatchee Queen III is $24 for adults, $14 for children 3 – 12, and free for children under 3.

FM Notes:  While researching for this article, I came across the book “Life and Death on the Loxahatchee: The Story of Trapper Nelson” by James D. Snyder.  The book includes interviews with Nelson’s surviving family members, along with photos from Nelson’s scrapbook found at the bottom of a file cabinet in the Park Service, and transcribed letters from Trapper Nelson to his family from 1951-1968. The latest printing was 2007 and is a must-read for those interested in Trapper Nelson’s story.

Nelson planted a variety of tropical fruit and vegetation 
Bamboo 

Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse and Museum

Before there were towns, or roads or railroads in Palm Beach County, there was the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse.  This red and black lighthouse has been lighting the way along Florida’s East Coast since July 10, 1860.  Built on a natural sand hill, the lighthouse itself is 108 feet tall and can be seen 24 miles out at sea. Just think about it, for more than 150 years ships have used the lighthouse’s beacon to guide them safely around the Gulf Stream and away from reefs and shoals.

History of Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse

Because of its location at the junction of the Indian River and Jupiter Inlet, in 1849 army surveyors recommended the Jupiter Inlet as a strategic and appropriate place for military defenses. After President Franklin Pierce signed an order to set aside the 61 ½ acres for a lighthouse, Lieutenant George Meade designed the structure, and Lieutenant William Raynolds improved the strength with the design of a double wall.  The lighthouse is comprised of a tower and an iron top, or lantern.  The first-order Fresnel (fray-nel) lens in operation is said to be the oldest existing first-order Fresnel lens in Florida and is one of only 13 active in the United States.

In 1973 the lighthouse was placed on the National Register of Historic Places, then in 1974, it was opened to public tours by the Loxahatchee River Historical Society.

Climbing the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse

Before you even get inside, there are 34 steps you have to climb just to get to the base of the lighthouse. Those are the easy ones.  Once inside, there are 105 steep iron stairs – 100 of them date back to 1860, five were replaced in 2000.

As you work your way to the top, there are three landings that not only provide a chance to catch your breath, but also a look out in different directions.  Those views themselves are amazing, but the views from the top are out of this world.  Walk around the top and see the Atlantic Ocean, the Indian River, Jupiter Inlet and the Loxahatchee River.  On a clear day, you can see for miles.

Other Things to See at the Lighthouse

While the lighthouse is the centerpiece of the property, there are other things to see during your visit.

Keepers’ Workshop and Exhibit

Just off the deck by the lighthouse you will find the Keepers’ Workshop and Exhibit “Keeping the Light at Jupiter Inlet.” Once inside, pick up an adventure map that will take you back in time for a look at the early years of the lighthouse.  Each of the eight “stations” depicted on the map provides information about the lighthouse.  Find out why Jupiter has a lighthouse, a timeline of the lighthouse, how the lighthouse works, or stories of some of the keepers.

Prior to becoming a workshop and exhibit, the building served as a pump house and paint storage locker.  It was built in 1929, but then rebuilt and expanded in 1929 after a major hurricane.

Banyan Tree and Deck

As you walk up the pathway to the lighthouse, the limbs of a large banyan tree reach out in every direction, offering shade to a wooden deck built over the foundation of the original keepers’ house.  Even though it may look like there are several trees, there is only one! The hair-like roots on this 85-year-old tree reach back to the ground, take hold and form new tree trunks.

Tindall House

The house was built in 1892 by George Tindall and is believed to be one of the oldest houses in Palm Beach County.  Originally, the house was located along the Loxahatchee River several miles west of its current location.  It was moved in 1997 to Burt Reynolds Park, then again in 2007 to its final home in Lighthouse Park.  The main portion of the house features four rooms: living room, parlor, bedroom and workroom.  True to style for cracker houses, the Tindall house is elevated off the ground, has high ceilings, and large windows.  Off the back of the house is a replica of the kitchen and dining area, separated from the main part of the house to cut back on heat and potential fires to the remainder of the house.  The interior is furnished with photos of the family, as well as donated items from the 1900s.

Pennock Plantation Bell

Protected from the elements under a wooden roof, the Pennock Plantation Bell has a history of its own.  The bell was used to signal lunch break or the end of a work day at the Pennock Plantation.  It would ring once on those occasions, then continuously when the volunteer fire department was needed. The Pennocks are some of the early pioneers of Jupiter, arriving in 1902 and starting a fern business, as well as a dairy farm. During the first half of the 20th century, the Pennock Plantation was the largest employer in Jupiter.

Plants

As you walk along the brick path, make sure to stop and take a look at the many plants along the way.  Some of them are native to Florida, while others are not.  Wild coffee, muhly grass, dune sunflowers, and beauty berries are all native.  Although agave is found mostly in Mexico and the American Southwest, the dry, sandy soil of Florida is also conducive to its growth. Agave has been growing at the Jupiter Lighthouse for more than 100 years.

Museum and Gift Shop

Before you leave, make sure to check out the museum and gift shop.  The museum, housed inside the 1940 WII Naval Housing Building, offers the exhibit “5,000 Years on the Loxahatchee.”  Eight galleries provide additional information on the lighthouse, maritime history and notable individuals from the area.

 

Self-guided Tour App

If you opt to explore the grounds without a tour guide, there is an App you can download that ensures you don’t miss anything!  Starting from the welcome gate, you are guided on a journey through the history of early Native Americans and the Seminole Indians in the area.  Interpretive readings from period journals provide personal recollections of the life and times of early settlers.

The App provides information on some of the best areas for taking photos, as well as points of interest along the brick path.

 

Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse and Museum Hours

The Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse and Museum is located at 500 Captain Armour’s Way in Jupiter and is open 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.  The last lighthouse grounds admission is at 4:00 p.m. Guided docent tours are held at 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.  Note that the lighthouse is open Tuesday – Sunday, May through December and seven days a week from January to April.

There is a $12 admission fee for adults, $6 for children 6 – 18, and no charge for children five and under.  Special rates are available for U.S. Veterans and senior 60 and over. Children must be 48” to climb.