Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

Museum of Florida History

What’s the saying about “the best-laid plans?”  On occasion, those plans for a day of “celebrating all things Florida” are impacted for one reason or another.  The day we loaded up and headed towards the St. Marks Lighthouse in Wakulla County, Mother Nature had a different idea.  As the skies turned gray and it was obvious we were heading into rain, we went on to Plan B: The Museum of Florida History in Tallahassee.

Not all museums are child-friendly, but the Museum of Florida History is. Our group included my grandchildren, ages six months, three and five.  Obviously, the two older ones were the ones we had to keep interested – and from the moment we arrived, they were!

Exhibits

Just inside the door, visitors are greeted by a mastodon, found in Wakulla Springs and one of the original exhibits from the Museum’s opening in 1977.

Mastodon found in Wakulla Springs

The Museum houses four permanent exhibits: Forever Changed: La Florida 1513 – 1821, Florida in the Civil War, World War II and Naval Ships Named Florida. Colorful displays, informational panels, and replicas of Spanish ships provide visitors with a “walk through time.”

In addition to the exhibits themselves, there are more than 45,700 artifacts on display throughout the museum.  Military artifacts from the Civil War and World War II are featured prominently in the Museum, as well as jewelry and gold coins.

Hands-On Displays

Many of the exhibits also offer opportunities to interact with Florida history – whether it’s picking up a six-pound shot from an iron cannon on a Spanish merchant vessel…

Or taking the helm of a river boat.

And for the older visitors, knot tying is a skill you can practice on board the Spanish ship.

Florida history truly comes to life for visitors of all ages with these fun displays.

Grandma’s Attic

One of the favorite hands-on exhibits is Grandma’s Attic.  Imagine what it was like to walk up the stairs to the attic and finding a treasure trove of things to play with.  That’s how this exhibit is set up – housing all those things Grandma didn’t want to get rid of.  Games, clothes, and an old stove are just a few of the items to entertain visitors.  And it’s not just for the little tykes.  There is something in this attic people of all ages can remember.

Temporary Exhibits

Besides the permanent displays, the Museum houses temporary exhibits.  The current exhibit (through July 23, 2017) is Beaches, Creatures and Cowboys: Florida Movie Posters.  Representing films in Florida from the 1920s to the present, there are nearly 50 movie posters and other advertising memorabilia on display.

It’s fun to see how many of them you knew were filmed in Florida, like Apollo 13 or The Yearling, but, did you know Edward Scissorhands also has a Florida tie?  You’ll even see a poster for Creature from the Black Lagoon, filmed in nearby Wakulla Springs.

Other Things to See

There is so much more to see at the Museum than just these exhibits. The Museum houses a complete collection of art from each of the 26 Florida Highwaymen, a group of African American artists who traveled the highways of south Florida selling their paintings in the 1960s and 1970s.

Even after you leave the building, the exhibits continue.  Just outside the Museum is Florida’s World War II Monument. Completed in 2004, it is dedicated to the 248,000 Floridians who served in the Armed Services during the war, including the 4,600 who paid the ultimate sacrifice.  The centerpiece of the memorial is a replica of Florida’s pillar at the National World War II Memorial in Washington, D.C.

The monument sits at the end of a path lined with markers for each of the state’s 67 counties and provides local connections and reverence for the war effort.

 

FM Notes

The Museum of Florida History is open Monday – Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Sunday and holidays from Noon to 4:30 p.m.  Admission is free.  It’s a great place to spend the day – whether to get in out of the heat or in out of the Florida rain.

The Athens of Florida: DeLand

Brief History of DeLand

DeLand’s rich history goes back to when the area was known as Persimmon Hollow and was only accessible by steamboat along the St. John’s River.  Captain John Rich built a log cabin there in 1874, then two years later, in 1876, Henry A. DeLand visited his brother-in-law who lived in Persimmon Hollow.  DeLand liked it so much he purchased a $1,000 plot of land with the idea of developing the area.  He offered settlers purchasing the property a chance to sell it back to him within a two-year period.  DeLand lived up to his word after a freeze destroyed all of their crops and they could no longer stay there.  He bought back all the land.

“Henry’s Vision”

DeLand is also responsible for the city’s nickname “The Athens of Florida.”  Although he was never a full-time resident of the state, he wanted the city to become a place of culture, education and beauty like Athens, Greece.

Stetson University

Stetson University, Florida’s oldest private college, also plays a major role in the city’s history.  Stetson sits on about 160 acres of land in the heart of DeLand.  Founded in 1883 as DeLand University, its name was changed to Stetson University in 1889 in honor of John B. Stetson, a hat manufacturer who, along with Henry DeLand (founder of the city), was one of the founding trustees of the university.

DeLand Hall

Beautiful brick buildings are part of the university’s landscape.  One of those buildings, Elizabeth Hall, was built in 1885 and sits on North Woodland Boulevard.  Elizabeth Hall and other buildings like it are the reasons the university is on the National Register of Historic Places for the state’s “oldest collection of education-related buildings.”

Elizabeth Hall, built 1885

This picturesque campus has been ranked as the 5th best regional university in the South in the 2017 U.S. News and World Report’s guide to America’s Best Colleges.

Stetson Mansion

When planning for this day trip to DeLand, I knew I also wanted to see the Stetson Mansion, but driving up to the entrance, the gate was closed and a sign indicated the start time of the next tour.   Reservations for the tours are required, which means I should have done a little more research! Nevertheless, looking through the gate at this massive mansion, it’s easy to understand why it is Florida’s first luxury estate.

The mansion is referred to as “The House that Hats Built” and served as the winter home for John B. Stetson for 20 years.  Built in 1886, the mansion is filled with intricate carvings, parquet floors and 10,000 panes of antique window glass. It is also one of the first homes in the world with electricity, thanks to the friendship between Stetson and Thomas Edison.  Although it is now a private residence, year-round tours are still offered with special tours taking place during the Christmas holidays.

Athens Theatre

It’s only fitting that the city known as The Athens of Florida is home to its own Athens Theatre.  The theatre is in Historic Downtown DeLand at the end of Indiana Avenue along North Florida Avenue.  The theatre opened its doors in 1922 and was dubbed “Florida’s Handsomest Theatre.”  The theatre has evolved over the years from vaudeville acts to a movie theatre to a dinner theatre.  It closed its doors in the early 1990s but became the focus of the MainStreet DeLand Association which recognized the role it plays in the history of the city.  It is now owned by a non-profit theatre company and produces six Broadway caliber shows per year.  The Athens Theatre Youth Company also uses the facility to educate the youth about the performing arts.

The DeLand Mural Walk

Another must-see in DeLand is the city’s Mural Walk.  With 12 official murals painted on the sides of buildings around town, it is part of the Florida Mural Trail.  Each mural offers its own story about the history of Deland and range from smaller paintings, like “Gibbs Clothing Store”

…to the city’s longest mural at Painter’s Pond Park.  At 100 feet long, it shows what train passengers would see as they were riding through DeLand in the early 1900s.

In addition to the “official” murals, there are several others painted around town that are worth seeing.  The “Wings” painting along Pill Alley is one of those that visitors seek out, perhaps in an effort to earn their own wings.

Shopping and Dining in DeLand

The streets of DeLand are filled with stores, restaurants, and drinking establishments. Music stores offer up vinyl records of some of the old favorites, while antique stores provide treasure hunters plenty of opportunities to plunder.

Three-story antique store. A dream come true!

Hometown breweries like Persimmon Hollow Brewing Company and outdoor spaces like DaVinci Gardens give patrons unique experiences to relax and unwind.

On the outside looking in

Fun during the day, but buzzing at night

Other Things to See in DeLand

If these things aren’t enough to keep a person busy, there are a couple of other opportunities to take in the city of DeLand.  Stop by the old courthouse and gaze up at the amazing architecture, or visit the Chess Park adjacent to the courthouse.  Chess pieces are not provided.

With so much to see and do in DeLand, it’s best to do a little research beforehand.  But it’s definitely a place to go to continue “celebrating all things Florida.”

Fort Desoto Park: Pinellas County

With more than 660 miles of beaches in Florida, there are plenty of places to throw down a beach blanket and put your toes in the sand.  When you’re looking around for that perfect spot, don’t forget to check some of the county parks – there are plenty of hidden treasures where you least expect them.  One of those gems, located along Florida’s Sun Coast, is Fort Desoto Park near St. Petersburg and the Sunshine Skyway Bridge.

The Park

Fort Desoto Park is the largest of the Pinellas County Parks with 1,136 acres encompassing five keys: Mullet Key, Madelaine Key, Bonne Fortune Key, St. Christopher Key, and St. Jean Key.  A drive around the park reveals an abundance of native plants, mangroves, wetlands and hundreds of species of birds.   The park is a popular destination for locals and tourists, with more than 2.5 million visitors a year.

The Fort 

The history of Fort Desoto dates back to 1,000 AD with the Tocobaga Indians and includes explorations by Spaniards, including Hernando DeSoto, in the 1500s. Perhaps the history it is most widely known for is its use during war time.  In the mid-1800s it was determined the area would make a good coastal defense area. Although there was not an actual fort, a blockade was set up during the Civil War by Union troops between Egmont and Mullet Key.  Confederate soldiers were spotted easily by troops at the top of the Egmont Key Lighthouse.

It wasn’t until 1898 and the Spanish American War, that construction of the fort began on the island.  The first phase, which took six months to complete, included a wharf out into Tampa Bay, as well as an office, mess hall and quarters for the workmen. Eight months later, the Mortar Battery was completed – under budget.

It’s interesting to note Fort DeSoto was never the site of a major battle and the mortars were never used in combat.  However, walking through the fort and touching the massive weapons causes you to only imagine what it would have been like for the troops stationed there, keeping watch and fighting the elements.  Make sure to read up on the history on display inside the fort.

The Beach and Pier

Aside from the history associated with Fort DeSoto, the park offers up beautiful beaches.  There are about seven miles of the park along the water, and three miles of that includes white sandy beaches.  Our latest visit took us to  North Beach where beach umbrellas dotted the shoreline and beach goers set up residence for the day.  The water was clear and calm, and the ocean floor was smooth – the perfect backdrop for a refreshing and relaxing day.

If you are more into fishing than sunbathing, there are also two piers at the park, where anglers of all ages cast their lines or their nets. Baitfish can be seen under the piers along with dolphins playing in the water.

A friendly word of caution: Untended fish left on the cleaning tables are fair game!

Activities

Besides the fort, the park offers numerous other amenities, from camping to boating and kayaking, to picnicking and hiking.  A ferry service also runs to Egmont Key, but it’s advised you make reservations before the day of your visit.  It takes about half an hour for the ferry ride over to the island but once there, visitors are met with great shelling and swimming.  There’s also another fort to explore on Egmont Key as well as a large population of gopher tortoises.

Whatever you choose to do, there are plenty of parking spaces, but arriving early guarantees a spot. The cost to get into the park is $5.00 per car.  It is well worth the price and the trip!

 

Fort Christmas Historical Park

The last time I visited Fort Christmas in Orange County was when my children were in elementary school and that was – well, let’s just say that was a long time ago.  As with all historical places, I have found I appreciate them more the older I get.

Fort Christmas Historical Park is located on Highway 50 between Orlando and Titusville.  It sits about two miles off 50 on County Road 420, or as the locals call it, Fort Christmas Road.  The park takes up 25 acres on the west side of the road and 119 on the east.  There is a lot to see and do at the park, so plan on staying awhile.

Replica of Fort Christmas 

Perhaps the centerpiece of the park is the full-size replica of Fort Christmas. The original fort was just a short distance away and was one of several posts built to store supplies for troops on their way south for fighting in the Second Seminole War.  The original fort was established December 25, 1837 and was abandoned less than four months later. The name lived on, however, as it became the name of the town of Christmas.

Entrance to replica of Fort Christmas

Just inside the entrance is the first of two blockhouses which served as lookouts, the general’s headquarters, and protection of the troops.  The second of the blockhouses sits on the opposite corner of the fort.

Building to the right of the entrance is one of two blockhouses.

These two structures now serve as museums and house artifacts of the time – from photos of prominent families to weaponry to  saddles, cowboy hats and other ranching necessities.

Also inside the stockade is a storehouse for holding the army rations and supplies as well as food staples. A powder magazine below ground level (for safety purposes) provides visitors with a look at how ammunition was stored.

Living History Settlement

A few steps away from the fort is the entrance to the village.  Imagine life in the late 1800s and early 1900s. No air conditioning, no inside plumbing.  One-room houses were the norm, although some were added onto over time for growing families.

The Yates House

Walking into any of these structures reminds you of how simple yet how tough life was at the turn of the century.  Netting around the beds.  Handmade quilts.  Living spaces with fireplaces.

Interior of one of the homes. Notice the netting over the beds and the cracks between the wood.

Living rooms served as family spaces.

Some of these houses also serve as exhibits.  The Simmons III Home also serves as the exhibit for the Fort Christmas Post Office…

While the Ranching Exhibit is housed inside the Beehead Ranch House.

Notice all of the brands on the hide on the floor

Other Historical Structures

As a former teacher, it’s always interesting to see how schools were once operated.  Stepping inside the Union School provided a look into a 1907 classroom. Named for the way it “united” several of the small schools in the area operated by families into one location, Union School was once just a one-room schoolhouse.

The Union School

An addition of a small room in the back of the school was made in the 1920s.  The desks are set in neat rows with reading books of various grade levels set on top of them.

Original room of the school

1920s addition

A lunchroom added in 1932 now serves as a kitchen exhibit for those visiting the park.

Other structures include the Partin Home – built in 1953 complete with indoor plumbing and electricity.  It is a far cry from their first home built 40 years before.  Their ‘50s barn is also adjacent to the house.

Partin Home

Recreational Amenities

The park provides visitors with other opportunities for fun and family time.  Take along your basketball or tennis rackets and have some friendly competition on the courts.  There’s also a playground, a 1920’s softball field and rentable pavilions where you can enjoy your lunches.

Whatever you do during your visit to the park, it’s sure to be both educational and fun.  The park is open during the summer from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. and in the winter from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.  Hours for the museum and homes are Tuesday through Sunday, from 9:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m.

 

Ponce Inlet Light Station and Museum

There are some locations that seem to beckon you to visit.  The Ponce Inlet Lighthouse is one of them.  Reaching 175 feet majestically into the sky, this red structure is the tallest lighthouse in the state, and second tallest masonry lighthouse in the United States, behind the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse in the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Ponce Inlet Lighthouse

The Lighthouse

The day we visited, the lighthouse wasn’t even on my radar.  (I’m certainly not one who would go climbing something that tall just for the fun of it!) Standing at the base and looking up, the lighthouse didn’t look that formidable.   But try climbing the 203 steps and you will definitely have a different opinion.  I know I did.  Thankfully, on the lower levels there were places to stop and catch our breath.  But as we got closer to the top, it felt like the walls were closing in.  No wonder.  Its 32-foot diameter base slowly shrinks to just 12 feet at the top.  Once there, though, the view – even on a cloudy day – is breathtaking – water everywhere you look.  After all, it is located ten miles south of Daytona Beach, where the Halifax River and Indian River flow into the Atlantic Ocean.

Looking out at the Atlantic Ocean

Ponce Inlet Light Station Museum

Construction on the lighthouse began in 1884 and was completed in 1887. Still an active lighthouse, it also serves as the focal point of the Ponce Inlet Light Station and Museum, which includes all of the original dwellings of the keepers as well as other support buildings.  Ponce Inlet is one of the only Light Stations in the United States that has these buildings intact.

Keeper’s Dwellings

There are three Keeper’s Dwellings that serve as the museum: Principal Keeper’s, First Assistant Keeper’s, and Second Assistant Keeper’s.  Each building provides visitors with a different piece of history.  The Principal Keeper’s Dwelling once was home to the principal keeper and his family. Now it houses exhibits about  lighthouses of the world, lighthouses for airplanes, and Native Americans in Florida, to name a few.

Principal Keeper’s Dwelling

The First Assistant’s Dwelling is not open for actual tours, but can be seen through viewing panels on the front and back porches.  It was named in honor of Gladys Meyer Davis whose father served as the last Lighthouse Service Principal Keeper at the lighthouse.  The building is furnished as it would have been in the late 1800s or early 1900s. In the Second Assistant Keeper’s Dwelling, visitors can learn more about the local community, from beach racing to the lives of the keepers and their families.  This building actually served as the first town hall for Ponce Inlet in the early 1960s.

First Assistant’s Dwelling

Lens Exhibit

A visit to the lighthouse wouldn’t be complete with going inside of the Lens Exhibit Building.  Before this trip, I did not know about the different types of lenses that are used in lighthouses.  I still don’t know a lot, but what I do know, is this is an impressive collection.  The rotating first order Fresnel lens from the Cape Canaveral Lighthouse is on display as well as the original fixed first order Fresnel lens that was used from 1887 – 1933 in the Ponce Inlet Lighthouse.

Some of the lenses on display

Sign explaining the history of the Cape Canaveral lens

Learn more about the history of Ponce Inlet Lighthouse through other exhibits onsite.  The Ponce De Leon Inlet Light Station and Museum is open daily from 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.  From Memorial Day to Labor Day the hours are extended until 9:00 p.m. with the last tour beginning at 8:00 p.m.  There is an entrance fee which you pay inside the gift shop.

 

Floridiana Magazine (FM) Footnotes:

The Light Station and Museum is operated by the Ponce De Leon Inlet Lighthouse Preservation Association, Inc.  It was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1998 and is now visited by more than 170,000 people a year.

According to the Florida Lighthouse Association, there are 30 lighthouses in Florida and preserving all of them would take nearly $20 million dollars.

For those who visit lighthouses on a regular basis, visit United States Lighthouse Society Passport Program and join the free Passport Club.  There is a charge to actually purchase your passport. Information on that is also available on the website.

 

Monticello, Florida

For years, I have been driving Interstate 10 west to Tallahassee either as a student at Florida State University or the parent of two daughters at FSU. In all of those years, I rarely ventured off the main highway to visit any of the smaller towns. However, now that I have moved to Tallahassee, Monticello is becoming one of my favorite small Florida towns.

First, let me say, the drive into Monticello on U.S. Highway 90 will more than likely be full of color in the coming month, as crepe myrtles lined both sides of the road. That in itself would be worth the drive, but there is much more to this charming town.

Jefferson County Courthouse

Monticello is the county seat of Jefferson County, named after Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States and author of the Declaration of Independence. If you know history, you might know Jefferson’s home in Virginia also bore the name Monticello. The town was named after that home and serves as the hub of the county. The Jefferson County Courthouse sits in the center of town and was built in 1909. The Latin phrase “Suum Cuique”, can be seen above its doors, meaning “to each his own” or “may all get their due.”

Walking and Driving Tour of Monticello

Monticello is known for its historic buildings. If you want to get a glimpse of them, all you have to do is to take a drive off the main highway through town and meander through the side streets.  In all, there are more than 600 buildings in the area that were built before 1920. A walking and driving tour has been established to lead visitors to 26 of those structures.

Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce

Make sure to stop at the Chamber of Commerce on the way in to pick up a brochure showing the route along with a brief history of those buildings.

Tour brochures can be picked up at the Chamber of Commerce

The Avera-Clarke House was built in 1890 by state legislator Thomas L. Clarke.  It sits on the corner of U.S. 90 and Pine Street and now serves as a bed and breakfast. With its red shutters and white picket fence, the building itself seems to say “welcome home.”

Avera-Clarke House in Monticello

Other homes in Monticello represent those typical of the Old South.

Budd-Pafford House (1833)

Monticello Opera House

One of the primary historic structures is The Monticello Opera House, built in 1890 by businessman John H. Perkins, in what is known as the Perkins Block. Sitting across from the courthouse, it still serves as a cultural and arts center for the area.  The second floor of the building houses the theatre itself, which is often said to have nearly perfect acoustics.  Local companies regularly put on musical and theatrical shows, as well as other musical groups. (Check the calendar of events for dates and times.)

Monticello Opera House | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shopping and Other Activities in Monticello

We visited on a Sunday, and other than church activities, the streets of Monticello were relatively empty. The shops were closed, but the town still showed off its charm with antique stores, restaurants and other locally owned businesses.

 

As is the case with small towns, Monticello also lays claim to other activities. The second weekend in May is the Southern Music Rising Festival featuring musicians from all over the country. They set up in the Opera House and on the porches of the houses throughout downtown to entertain visitors with old time music. The town also comes to life during the third weekend in June with the Jefferson County Watermelon Festival.

And if you are into haunted ghost tours, Monticello is known as the “South’s Most Haunted Small Town.” Historic Monticello Ghost Tours are held through September and cemetery scavenger hunts are also offered through reservations.

Monticello is a small town with a big heart and a big history.  This trip definitely taught me a lesson: make it a point to get off the main highways and visit some of the smaller towns in the state. Those towns are where you will experience the “real Florida.”

Town of Murals: Lake Placid, Florida

A sign along Highway 27 at the edge of Lake Placid in Highlands County reads, “Town of Murals.”  Unless you pay attention to the sign or exit on one of the town’s main roads, you might miss what has become a vital part of the town and its history.

Having grown up less than 30 minutes from Lake Placid, I spent many summers at Lake June.  The murals weren’t part of the town then, but it was definitely a place that felt inviting and friendly.  Now that I’ve had a chance to go back and see these murals for myself, I am even more enchanted with this town.


Lake Placid is like any other little town: a farmer’s market, a main street, quaint shops, the locals milling about on a Sunday afternoon. What sets this apart is just what the sign says – murals.  There are nearly 50 of them painted on the sides of buildings around town.  Each one depicts something different about the history of Lake Placid, its culture or some of its prominent citizens.

“Captain” T. W. Webb
Richard Archbold
Early Physicians
Eddie Mae Henderson
Dr. Charles Akes
Dr. Melvil Dewey

This was all the brainchild of Harriet and Bob Porter, themselves depicted on the front of the Chamber of Commerce building.  Harriet says she and her husband got the idea from an impromptu stop in Chemainus, Vancouver Island, British Columbia during a motorcycle trip to Alaska.

“We found a little sign by the side of the road that said, ‘The Little Town that Did.’  We decided to see what they did,” Harriet says, “and we saw 32 beautiful larger than life murals that depicted the history of their town.”

That was the beginning of the Lake Placid Mural Society.

“Town of Murals – How it All Began” featuring Bob and Harriet Porter

The Murals

“Tea at Southwinds” Lake Placid’s first mural by Thomas Freeman in 1993

One of the favorite murals around town is the “Cracker Trail Cattle Drive,” taking up the entire side of the old Winn Dixie on the corner of Highway 27 and Route 621 East. The 175 feet wide mural depicts the importance and magnitude of the cattle industry in Florida, and in Lake Placid in particular.  The cattle are all marked with registered brands belonging to Highlands County cattlemen.  Standing in front of this massive mural, you can almost feel the pounding of their hooves as they are being driven out of town.

“Cracker Trail Cattle Drive” by Keith Goodson

It took about six months to paint the mural 1994 by artist Keith Goodson.  Since that time, it’s been repainted at least three times to maintain its beauty – something that is done with all of the murals around town.  The only thing missing from this mural currently is the sound of the cattle mooing which came to an end when the building was vacated and the electricity turned off.

Another mural in town, “The Lost Bear Cub,” also features sound.  It was painted  in 1997 by Terry Smith on the side of a barber shop on East Interlake Boulevard.  Stop by and listen to the mama bear and her cub.

The Artists

Most of the murals were painted by single artists, although there are some that involved the collaboration of two artists – depending on their skill sets.

Part of “Birding” by Thomas Brooks and Terry Smith

“They all have their specialties,” Harriet says. “Some are better at wildlife than others.  Some are better at painting people. This is how we’ve chosen through the years – by what their talents are and what is required in the mural.”

“Caladium Fields” by Thomas Freeman

There has never been a competition or a call put out for the artists.  They were chosen through connections with the Caladium Arts and Crafts Co-op, which Harriet also began with her husband.

The Process

Not just any mural can be painted on the side of a building.  Everything is related to Lake Placid.  The history is researched and provided to an artist, who in turn interprets the information in their own way.  A full-color rendering is provided to the Mural Society before any paint can go on the wall.  Once approved, the painting begins.

All of the original renderings hang inside the Chamber of Commerce and are on display during business hours.

Something for Everyone

“The Murals of Lake Placid” guide book will make your visit complete and can be purchased at the Chamber or any number of businesses in town.  The guide includes information about the mural, the artist and even offers an interactive activity for each of them.

If you or your children like to find hidden pictures, the murals have that to offer as well.  Each of them has something either hidden or missing and the guide book tells you what to look for in each mural.

Portion of “Our Citrus Heritage.” There are four hidden oranges with smiley faces in this mural.  

“Bassin'” Can you find what’s missing?

The mural that started the interactive activities was another of the town’s favorites, “Bassin’” another mural painted by Keith Goodson.  Harriet says when Goodson was finishing up he told her he didn’t think he could put another brush load of paint on the mural.  About two weeks after the scaffolding was removed, a woman told Harriet the artist forgot something.

“I said, ‘forgot?” Harriet remembers, and rushed over to look at it.  “Sure enough, he had.”

Goodson offered to go back and finish it, but Harriet decided against it and made that a regular feature of all murals from that day on.

Response to the Murals

The murals have become an important part of Lake Placid, helping them win the distinction of “America’s Most Interesting Town” in 2013 by the Reader’s Digest. Tourism has seen an increase, which means restaurants and stores benefit from the extra people in town.  More than 150 cities and towns across the United States and Canada have reached out to ask how to start their own mural project.  The result of that is the Florida Mural Trail, comprised of about a dozen other towns showcasing their own artwork.

“America’s Most Interesting Town”

More to Offer

You can easily spend the day in Lake Placid, visiting the murals and reading about their history.  Many of the murals are grouped together, which makes it easy to park the car and walk.  No need to worry about getting in the way of the locals when you play tourist.  They’ll just smile or wave when you stop to take pictures.

“Birding” is located in the Lake Placid Noon Rotary Park along with “Layers of Time”

Of course there is much more to Lake Placid than just the murals, but you’ll have to visit for yourself to find the other hidden gems in this town with “history all around.”

 

FM Footnote:  Selecting mural photographs to share in this post was difficult, so don’t be surprised if there is another post with more photos and more about what Lake Placid has to offer.  In the meantime, please visit this little town (or any of the other towns on the Florida Mural Trail) and see up close the amazing talent and ideas that brought this project to fruition.

Paddlewheelers and the St. Johns River

If you’ve ever driven over the St. Johns River Bridge on Interstate 4 in Sanford, chances are you have caught a glimpse of the Barbara-Lee, a red and white sternwheeler that has set its course to revive the tradition of the ships that once travelled up and down the river.

The Barbara-Lee

History on the River

The St. Johns has been a major waterway for more than 500 years, and lays claim to an abundance of Florida history. It was travelled by the Europeans, the Spanish, and the French, whether it was for exploration or to escape religious persecution. It was used to document the plants and animals living along the river.  After originally travelling the St. Johns with his father in 1765, botanist William Bartram returned to the river in 1774 to take a closer look at life along the St. Johns.  Skip ahead to the 1830s, when the steamboat George Washington became the first to regularly sail the river.  Then, during the Civil War, the river was ruled by the Union Navy. After the war, the river became a tourist destination as well as a freight route. In the late 1800s, 150 steamships operated on the St. Johns River, and according to the St. Johns Rivership website, that was “more than any river south of the Hudson River in New York,” carrying everything from passengers to produce and citrus fruit.

The Barbara-Lee

The Barbara-Lee was built in 1986 and carries on the tradition of sternwheelers that have been sailing along the river for hundreds of years.  She had her inaugural cruise in 2012 and is the only authentic sternwheeler you will see on the St. Johns River.  The 105 foot boat provides a smooth, leisurely trip, allowing riders the opportunity to see the “real” Florida.

We boarded Barbara-Lee for a Saturday dinner cruise and were treated to three hours of a fun Florida experience, from a delicious dinner inside overlooking the massive wooden paddle wheel, to a beautiful sunset from the Captain’s Deck.

Set up for dinner

A Florida sunset on the St. Johns River

The air was cool and the only sound that could be heard was the splashing of the water as the paddle wheel turned. While the evening cruise provided magnificent views of the stars and the lights along the shore in Sanford, you can only imagine what you would see during a daytime cruise.

Looking back at Sanford

Operated by St. Johns Rivership Co., Barbara-Lee runs daily lunch cruises from Wednesday through Sunday, along with dinner cruises on Saturday.  There are five decks on the boat, ample room to spread out to enjoy the views and the cruise. Guests are advised to make reservations ahead of time.

A great place to relax

If you’re looking for a relaxing way to explore Florida, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, it just may be time to chart your course with the Barbara-Lee and enjoy a leisurely tour of one of the state’s historic rivers.

Cruising the St. Johns River

 

The Gamble Place

One of the great things about Florida is there is always a new place to explore, one you never knew existed. A recent trip to Port Orange led to the discovery of yet another hidden treasure. Not only does it offer a step back in time, but also a little bit of whimsy and a window into a backwoods retreat.

Egwanulti

Egwanulti is the name given to the Gamble Place by James N. Gamble, the son of the co-founder of the Procter and Gamble Company. Egwanulti is a Native American word meaning “by the water” which is fitting because of its location along Spruce Creek. Gamble bought the land in 1898, but it wasn’t until 1907 that he built the cracker-style house that still stands on the property today. The house features a separate kitchen and dining room, connected by a breezeway or dog-trot, and an open front porch.  The back porch, with its chairs and benches, opens to the back yard with the creek just steps away.  Sitting on the porch, you can just imagine the stories shared by those who once called this place home during the winter months.

Gamble Place

An inviting back porch

Besides the house, Gamble also rebuilt a packing house on the property to process the citrus from his own grove.

Citrus Packing House

The Gamble Place sits on 175 acres and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1993.

Snow White Cottage

“Heigh-ho, Heigh-ho
It’s home from work we go…”

If those song lyrics conjure up a memory, then this Florida stop is a must-see.  Nestled along the banks of Spruce Creek on the eastern portion of the Gamble property, sits a replica of the Snow White Cottage. You know the one she stayed in with the dwarfs?  The cottage started out as plans for a playhouse, but by the time it was finished, it had expanded into a full-size replica and served as a retreat for guests of all ages. Judge Alfred K. Nippert, Gamble’s son-in-law, got the idea for the cottage after the Disney movie’s release in 1937, just three months after the death of his wife.

Snow White Cottage

Along with the cottage, there are two other structures.  The Diamond Mine is built in the same style as the cottage and is two stories.  The ground floor once had a tank used to store water.  On the second floor, a child’s dream – a playhouse.

“The Diamond Mine”

What would the cottage be without the Wicked Witch lurking nearby?  An old hollow cypress tree was moved to the property, placed on a stone foundation and roofed.  If you look closely, you’ll see a familiar face peering out of the window.

Wicked Witch’s Hut

Cracker Creek

Before you can get onto the Gamble property, you have to stop at the Cracker Creek office to pay a minimal admission fee. While you’re there though, ask about canoe and kayak rentals, or the hydro-bike rentals.  For a more leisurely trip down Spruce Creek, they also offer pontoon boat tours Friday through Sunday.

Cracker Creek Office

Rent a canoe or bring your own

Take a leisurely cruise

No matter if you’re at the Gamble Place or walking around the grounds at Cracker Creek, magnificent peacocks can be seen roaming the property.  These close encounters bring to full light the iridescent blues and greens in their feathers.

Beautiful peacocks roam the property

Cracker Creek and the Gamble Place are located in Port Orange off Taylor Road.  You cannot get inside the actual buildings through the self-tour.  The building tour is available for groups of ten or more but reservations must be made in advance.

Dunlawton Sugar Mill Gardens

Just a short drive off Nova Road (Highway 5A) in Port Orange is another one of those hidden gems in Florida. Dunlawton Sugar Mill Gardens is a 12-acre mix of gardens and Florida history.  I have to admit, one of the things that drew me here in the first place, was the knowledge an old Florida tourist attraction used to be on this site.  More on that later, but first a little about the sugar mill.

Entrance to Dunlawton Sugar Mill Gardens. Don’t forget to drop a donation in the box just inside.

Dunlawton Sugar Mill Plantation

The history of the plantation goes back to before Florida even became a state when it was part of a 995 acre land grant in 1804.  After passing through several hands, it was eventually purchased by Sarah Petty Anderson (Dunn) in 1832 under the name Dunlawton Plantation – a combination of Anderson’s maiden name and the previous owners of the land, Charles and Joseph Lawton. For three years, sugar and molasses were produced here, until the Second Seminole War.  Like many other mills in Florida, Dunlawton was burned to the ground. With no money to rebuild it, the Anderson family abandoned the property.  The mill changed hands a couple more times until it was burned down again during the Third Seminole War.  During the Civil War, Dunlawton was a camp for the St. John’s Rangers, in the 2nd Florida Cavalry who used the kettles for the “production of salt for food preservation and ammunition.”

Side view of the sugar mill, showing the purgery which contained vats to catch molasses drippings.

Kettle trains in the boiling room

Cane crusher

Visitors can get a good glimpse of what the sugar making process entailed.  Many of the old pieces of machinery are still in place, including a cane crusher, the boilers and kettles.  The brick structures are now protected by a metal roof, although at one time in its history a wooden roof created an “enclosed” sugar factory.

There are plenty of informational placards that provide a better understanding of the history of the mill and the process of sugar making. Make sure you stop and read them all.

One of many informational signs throughout the gardens

Bongoland

Who would have thought the site of protected archaeological ruins would also one day turn into a tourist attraction?  During the 1940s and ‘50s, the property was transformed into Bongoland – an attraction that featured animals, an Indian village, a train to take visitors around the park and a series of dinosaurs created out of chicken wire and concrete. Oh, and Bongo – the baboon that lived on the grounds.  Unfortunately, the whole idea of theme parks hadn’t caught on and Bongoland closed due to a lack of interest.

Bongoland brochure

Five of the original dinosaurs remain on the property and can be viewed during your walk around the park.  Most of them are located near the Children’s Garden and still remain an attraction in their own right. One park goer says she used to climb under and around the dinosaurs, but they have since been cordoned off with fencing.  Still, kids love to stand in front of these prehistoric animals and marvel at their size.  Plus they are perfect for picture taking!

Watch out for the dinosaurs!

Tyrannosaurus Rex – don’t let his “smile” deceive you!

Dimetrodon

Triceratops

Ground Sloth

Kids love the dinosaurs!

After Bongoland closed, the property sat neglected until it was bequeathed to Volusia County in 1963. An organization known as Botanical Gardens of Volusia, Inc. made a deal with the county and began leasing the property in 1985. Their work at the gardens relies 100% on donations and volunteers.

The gardens are filled with water features, flowers and plants.

Vine growing wild

Ginger

Fern

Confederate Oak – according to legend, Confederate soldiers frequently camped under it.

Whether you visit to meander along the many trails and look at the plants and flowers, view the dinosaurs or take a look back into the history of Florida sugar making, this is worth the visit.

Flower Circle

Floridiana Magazine (FM) Notes: The gardens are open every day from 8:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. (except for Christmas and New Years).   There is no admission fee, but donations are accepted. Botanical Gardens of Volusia, Inc. is always looking for volunteers to serve on committees or work in the gardens.  Visit their website for more information.