Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

Madison County, FL

Long before I started writing about Florida, Madison County was one of my favorite places to visit.  Years ago, I spent many hours researching family history with my parents. Before county records were digitized, we would visit the courthouse and leaf through pages of old marriage records, land grants, and wills. Then we would visit Elmer’s Genealogy Library (no longer in existence) or head out to some of the old cemeteries in the county. At the time, I thought that Madison County was just another small, rural county.  Today, that’s what makes it enchanting as a county that still represents old Florida.

History of Madison County

Just six years after Florida became a U.S. territory in 1821, Madison County was established in 1827 from Jefferson County and was one of 15 counties at the time.  Named after James Madison, the fourth president of the United States, Madison’s early economy was centered around cotton and tobacco, much like other north Florida counties at the time. After the Civil War, the county rebuilt its economy with the help of the railroad which brought new industries and people to the area. Cotton was wiped out after the arrival of the boll weevil in 1916.

Today, Madison County is home to nearly 18,500 people and the key industries include education, public administration, retail, and health care and social services.

Madison County Courthouse, Built 1912 | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Towns and Cities in Madison County

Madison, Our Attraction is Only Natural

The small town of Madison is the heart of the county, established as the county seat in 1838 during the Seminole Indian Wars.  As the main hub for government and business, it has been named one of the “Best Little Towns in Florida” by Visit Florida. Madison boasts a charming downtown historic district, with quaint antique shops, gift shops, and restaurants. One of our favorite restaurants is Grumpy’s Diner.  Great food in the heart of downtown. Don’t let the name fool you.  No matter if we are in the restaurant or shopping in one of the stores, the townspeople are friendly and hospitable.

Madison, FL Train Depot | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Grumpy’s Diner | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Greenville

About 13 miles west of the town of Madison along Highway 90 is Greenville. From the highway, there doesn’t appear to be much, but one of this town’s hidden gems is located just off 90 in the Haffye Hays Park on Broad Street. That is where you will find a life-size bronze statue of musician Ray Charles.  Created by Bradley Cooley, it was placed in the park in 2005, after Charles’ death a year earlier.  Although Charles was not born in Greenville, he and his mother moved to town when he was only a month or so old. That’s where he learned to play the piano from a local café owner. Charles’ grew up in a home on SW Ray Charles Road which has been restored by the Florida Bureau of Historic Preservation. Ray lived in Greenville until he was seven, when he was sent to The Florida School for the Deaf and Blind in St. Augustine. He continued making frequent visits to Greenville to see his mother, until she died when he was only 15.

Ray Charles Bronze Statue, Haffye Hays Park, Greenville | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Ray Charles’ Childhood Home | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Ray Charles’ Childhood Home | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Things to See and Do in Madison County:

The Treasures of Madison County Museum

When you travel to Madison County, there are a few things you must see while you’re there. First things first, a stop by the Treasures of Madison County Museum on Range Avenue. Located in the W.T. Davis Building, one of the buildings of historic importance in town, the museum offers an impressive look at the history of the county. Take a stroll through time in the museum’s exhibits. From military to medicine, to churches and vintage clothing, the space is filled with artifacts and memorabilia.

Treasures Museum in the W.T. Davis Building. Built 1890s | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Don’t forget to pick up your copy of the Historic Walking/Driving Tour brochure | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Four Freedoms Park and Four Freedoms Monument

Four Freedoms Monument is number one on the museum’s tour brochure. Situated in the picturesque Four Freedoms Park, which takes up an entire city block, the monument commemorates the Four Freedoms identified by President Franklin D. Roosevelt in his 1941 State of the Union Address: Freedom of Speech, Freedom of Worship, Freedom from Want, and Freedom from Fear.  The monument is dedicated to Madison County native Colin P. Kelly, Jr., who was recognized as one of the first U.S. heroes of World War II.  It also honors other Madison County servicemen who died in WWII. The statue was originally dedicated in 1943 in Madison Square Garden in New York City to a crowd of 60,000 people. It was moved to Madison and rededicated in June of 1944.

Four Freedoms Monument, Madison County | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The park also pays tribute to the Confederate soldiers of the county. The “Our Confederate Soldiers” statue was unveiled by the Daughters of the Confederacy in 1905, and although there have been plans to remove the statue, as of May 2023, it still stands. Other memorials within the park commemorate the First Baptist Convention and Former Slaves of Madison County.

Tribute to Madison County’s Confederate Soldiers | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine (May 2023)

Madison County Courthouse

Across Base Street (Highway 90) from the park is the Madison County Courthouse.  Built in 1912, it is the county’s fourth courthouse and the third one built in the city of Madison. The first courthouse was a log building in San Pedro, which also served as the county seat from 1828-1838. The courthouse was abandoned along with the town. The second courthouse was built in 1840 and burned in 1876. It was replaced by a brick structure in 1880 which was destroyed by fire in 1912. Most of the county records, some dating back to 1831, were saved. The courthouse is still in use today.  It has never been added onto or expanded.

Madison County Courthouse as seen from the Four Freedoms Park | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Standpipe/Watertower

Behind and to the right of the courthouse is the standpipe, built in 1894 as part of the city of Madison’s first public water supply. According to the April – June 2002 issue of The Madison County, Florida Genealogical News, the tower is 100 feet tall and held 133,000 gallons of water when it was completely full. Water was free until January 1, 1895, and then consumers were charged for their usage. The standpipe is no longer in use but is believed to be one of only two standpipes still in existence in Florida.

Standpipe at the Madison County Courthouse | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Wardlaw-Smith-Goza Conference Center

No visit to Madison is complete without a drive by the Wardlaw-Smith-Goza Conference Center. The property sits on Highway 90 (Base Street) on the south and Marion Street on the north. Built in 1860, it served as a hospital for both Confederate and Union troops during the Civil War. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1972.

Wardlaw-Smith House | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Wardlaw-Smith House Historic Sign | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Backroads of Madison County

Of course, once you get out of downtown, the county is home to many backroads that offer beautiful views of the countryside, old churches, and old buildings. One of my favorites is Highway 53 north out of town to the Cherry Lake community or Highway 145 north into Pinetta.

Go slow, pull over to let others pass if you have to, and enjoy the scenery. Oh, and don’t be afraid to turn onto a dirt road or two. You’ll never know what you might find.

Madison County, FL Backroad | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Old Tobacco Structure, Madison County, FL Backroads | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Old Tobacco Structure, Madison County Backroads | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shiloh Methodist Church, Madison County, FL | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

How to Get There

Madison County is located north of Interstate 10 about six miles at Exit 258 (Highway 53).  From Tallahassee, travel east on U.S. 90 bout 55 miles. It is also about 112 miles west of Jacksonville.  Madison County is indeed a faraway place that’s not very far away.

Please like our post, share it on social media, and leave a comment about Madison County. And if you like Madison County, you’re sure to like Monticello.  Check it out here.

See our slideshow below for more photos from our adventures into Madison.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Lloyd and its Historic Railroad Depot

Tucked away in Jefferson County, about a mile south of Interstate 10 on State Road 59 is a small town with a population of 140. Lloyd may not be a booming metropolis now but imagine a time when it was a bustling agricultural center. At the heart of that activity was the Lloyd Depot, now a historic landmark. It is the oldest brick depot and one of only two surviving Antebellum depots in Florida.

Lloyd Depot | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Lloyd Depot – oldest brick depot in Florida | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Lloyd Depot History

The Pensacola and Georgia Railroad began construction of the railroad in 1856. It would run from Tallahassee to Lake City then connect with the Florida, Atlantic and Gulf Railroad line to Jacksonville. In 1858, the railway was completed and the depot was built. Originally known as the Bailey’s Mill Station and then the Number Two Station, the depot served as a major shipping hub for cotton and other agricultural products. At the time, Jefferson County was one of the major cotton producing areas in the state and the railway provided planters with access to seaports on both the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts.

The railway met with great support from the growers in the area. Prior to the railroad going through Lloyd, cotton growers sent their crops by several means including ox-drawn wagons to St. Marks more than 30 miles away.

Wagons unloading cotton at the Seaboard Air Line depot – Lloyd, Florida. 1890 (circa).State Archives of Florida, Florida Memory. Accessed 19 Jun. 2022.<https://www.floridamemory.com/items/show/26673>

During the Civil War, the railroad transported wounded Confederate soldiers to hospitals to the west. Some of them were taken off the train in Lloyd and were doctored by local women in makeshift hospitals until the soldiers recovered. Only two of the soldiers treated died. They were buried about a mile west of the depot in a field.

A Community is Born

Along with the depot came expansion.  A small community arose along Main Street. Now considered the historic district, some of the old houses remain. Some buildings have been renovated, with signs identifying the families who once lived there. Others have given themselves to the elements.

Laffitte House (1890 – 1906) – Now serves as offices for Lloyd Baptist Church | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

W.A. Willie House – 1890 | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

J.J. Willie, Jr. House – 1910 | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Laffitte Store – 1912 | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

One of the most noteworthy buildings built at the time was the Whitfield House Hotel at the request of the railroad and served as a dinner stop for train passengers. The Florida Memory Project says for 75 cents, passengers would dine on a full-course meal but had only twenty minutes to eat while mail and express shipments were transferred at the depot.  When dining cars were installed on trains, the dinner stop ceased, but the House remained open until the 1930s as a hotel.  It is no longer standing.

In 1882, the names of the community and the depot were changed to Lloyd in honor of Walter Lloyd, a New Yorker who settled in the area after the Civil War and was instrumental in the recovery of its commercial and agricultural life.

The original depot (as described in the National Register of Historic Places nomination form) was a rectangular brick building with large wooden gables on the east and west ends of the depot, and wide eaves all around. It was built with a wooden cotton platform about 40 feet long. Two large freight doors flanked the west end of the building – one facing the tracks to the south, the other facing to the north.

With the town booming, the depot was refurbished in 1870. Then in the 1940s, much of the building’s wooden features were destroyed in a fire, including the wooden platform.  During the reconstruction, the brick walls, which railroad officials were worried were compromised by the fire, were tied together with steel rods, which can be seen today.

Cotton was not always king.  Watermelon, turpentine, and lumber eventually took the place of cotton after the boll weevil infestation in the 1920s.

The Winds of Change

The express and telegraph offices closed in the 1950s and passenger service continued until 1966 when the station closed.  The Seaboard Coast Line donated the depot to the Jefferson County Historical Society in 1968 and prevented demolition of the building.  The Historical Society then gave the building to the Gulf Wind Chapter of the National Railway Historical Society who has owned it ever since.

We had the pleasure of meeting some of the members during one of their workdays at the depot.  They took time away from their projects to show us around and explain what they’ve already done and what they plan to do.

Gulf Wind members began their preservation efforts in the original two waiting rooms and station master’s office. Those areas have been turned into the town’s post office, which still serves the community.

Lloyd Post Office – still serving the community | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Old Depot Ticket Window – now the window at the post office | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Post Office Boxes – Lloyd | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Work has also been done on the freight room with new electrical and plumbing fixtures being added.  The freight room now houses many artifacts, either from the depot or the railroad industry. One of those is a 1938 Fairmont S2-G which they had restored. “The Pumpkin” as they call it, holds six to eight people and travels at the “high rate of speed” of three miles per hour. Railcars like this were used to dispatch railroad crews down the line to work.

Nicknamed The Pumpkin, 1938 Fairmont S2-G Railcar – Lloyd | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Other artifacts include a safe, an original baggage cart with scale, railroad benches, a chalkboard for marking arrivals and departures, and what Society members consider to be one of the star attractions – the original Lloyd ticket cabinet, which they found in Plant City. A rack inside the cabinet held the tickets. The station master would unlock the cabinet and pull the tickets out for the passengers.

Original Safe – Lloyd | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Baggage Scale – Lloyd | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Old Chalkboard to announce arrivals and departures – Lloyd | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Original Lloyd Ticket Cabinet | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Historic Preservation of the Lloyd Depot Continues

In 1974, the depot was added to the National Register of Historic Places. Chapter members work diligently to uphold the character of the building. Lamps are reproductions of what you would have seen at the time. The mortar they use to shore up the bricks is tempered so it doesn’t destroy the existing old and soft brick.

Chapter members spend many hours working on restoring the bricks of the depot | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Mortar supplies | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Still there is a lot to be done. The chapter is looking forward to its next projects – stabilizing the southwest corner of the building, replacing the safety railing on the platform, and adding a new door for the side of the freight room facing the railroad tracks.

Pointing out some of the projects to be done: replacing the old freight door and the railing. Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

The old railing at the depot. | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/DorisKeeler

The Gulf Wind Chapter has received some funding from the Florida Division of Historical Resources, fundraising efforts and by holding public events like the Annual Open House.

Although there are no trains that stop at the depot today, you may be lucky enough to catch one of the Florida Gulf and Atlantic current day freights slipping past. Even if you don’t see a train, if you stand by the track and listen closely, you might just hear the “clickety clack” of the old trains that once kept Lloyd a bustling community.

Train track headed east from the depot. | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

A special thanks to the Gulf Wind Chapter of the National Railway Historical Society for showing us around.

Enjoy more photos of our visit to the Lloyd Depot in the slideshow below.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

 

The Harvey Trucks | May They Rust in Peace

Driving through smaller towns can reap big benefits – whether it’s a quaint Mom and Pop restaurant, a once-majestic old home left to the elements, or a roadside honey stand still operating on the honor system. And then there are those finds that, at first glance, only seem suited as photo opportunities, yet in the end have their own stories to tell.

One such site is known to the locals of Wakulla County as the Harvey Trucks, owned by long-time resident Pat Harvey and his family.  Located on Crawfordville Highway about two miles north of the intersection of 319 and 98, these old relics once served the Harvey family farm well, first as working vehicles, then later as parts for newer ones. When their use was exhausted, Harvey originally planned on hauling them off for scrap metal.  But once he moved the trucks to the side of the road around 1997 and lined them up, he decided he liked the way they looked in that spot. Little did he know at the time that these two dozen cars and trucks would become the roadside attraction they are today.

The vehicles sit in a semi-circle in chronological order, some as old as the early 1900s and others as “new” as the mid 1970s. Mostly Fords and Dodges, a car buff might also see an old REO Speedwagon front and center.

For folks just passing with no knowledge of the history behind these trucks, they may look like part of a junk yard. For Harvey however, they conjure up pleasant memories. In an interview with WFSU, Harvey recounted some of his most vivid ones.

Among them, the first truck he ever rode in – a rusted 1941 Ford pickup. Then there’s a ’59 Ford he took his driver’s test in, as well as a dark green station wagon which was his family’s first car and the one he used for dates. Although the station wagon is rusted out, a tinge of green paint is evident in several places on the exterior, while the interior still sports faded green and tan seats.

There’s also a cattle truck that did more than just transport cattle. It was used for leisure activities. Harvey remembers sitting on a board put up across the back of the truck and riding down the highway, bugs splatting like a motorcycle without a windshield.

Each vehicle has its own story to tell and as the story of their existence has grown, so, too has their popularity. Over the years, the trucks have become a landmark of sorts. They are used as the backdrop for prom and homecoming pictures, not to mention the subject for photographers and artists alike, whether it’s for their rust and neglect, or just their novelty.

Unfortunately, the years have taken their toll on these old relics. Trees have sprouted through the rusted floorboards; vines have grown around and inside them; and vandals have taken care of what Mother Nature could not. Most are missing all of their emblems or pieces of chrome. Windows have been broken. The interiors stripped of gear shifts and odometers. Still, others got their own “paint job.”  Years ago, there was a sign that sat in the front row of the trucks that read “May They Rust in Peace.”  Sadly, even that sign is gone.

At one time, the Harveys thought they would have to clear away the trucks because of a city ordinance passed to keep folks from letting junk cars sit in their yard in public view.  Fortunately, the Harvey Trucks were grandfathered in and can remain indefinitely.

Visiting the Trucks

Heading south on 319 past Crawfordville and before Medart, the trucks can be seen on the right side of the road. There is no sign that says you have arrived, so it’s easy to drive past the first time. A circular drive makes it easy to park and get out, but it’s advisable to wear closed-toe shoes because of broken glass, overgrown trees and shrubs, and who knows what else. Take your camera along and capture your own photos of these old trucks. I’ve been a couple of times and have taken a picture of something new each time.

Enjoy some of my photos in the slideshow below and stay tuned for another post of just my photos.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Traveling the Back Roads of North Central Florida

Growing up in a small Florida town, going from Point A to Point B always required traveling back roads.  I don’t think I ever really appreciated those drives until I moved to the city and had to drive on interstates or four-lane roads, all the while navigating through traffic.  Now, I look for those back roads.  I look for the small towns and the old buildings.  I look for those “unique” features that define the communities.  I look for Old Florida.

Lloyd, Florida

Lloyd is one of those places I probably would not have known about had it not been for this adventure to “celebrate all things Florida.”  Named after Walter Lloyd, a blacksmith from New York, it is located about a mile south of Interstate 10 at Exit 217 near Tallahassee.  It is also the birthplace of Mary Edwards Bryan (1846-1913), a writer of more than 20 novels, including Manch (1880) and Wild Work (1881).

The history of this little town can be tied to the railroad industry, which lasted until the 1930s.  As home to the oldest brick railroad station in Florida, Lloyd is a place for Florida history buffs to visit.  The Lloyd Railroad Depot was built in 1858 and is also one of only three surviving railroad depots from the Civil War in Florida.  (The other two are in Tallahassee and Gainesville.)  The depot once served as a hub for transportation and trade and was used by Confederate soldiers for military purposes during the war.

You can only imagine this little depot in its heyday and the stories that unfolded on the station’s platform.

The old brick building has stood up against the measure of time and is now used as the town’s post office.  You can find it at the intersection of Highways 59 and 158.

McAlpin, Florida

After leaving Lloyd, we continued our back roads journey, weaving our way around to U.S. Highway 129, stopping just south of Live Oak in the unincorporated town of McAlpin.

McAlpin, settled in 1882, was named for Daniel M. McAlpin, who had been the owner of the Bulletin (forerunner to the Suwannee Democrat), station master at the railroad, tax assessor, and representative to the Florida legislature (1875).

I must admit, though, what caught my eye the numerous times driving through McAlpin, was the old Speed gas station sign. Weathered and faded, it stands next to an old abandoned store, reminiscent of a part of “old Florida” where family-owned stores and filling stations were part of the booming landscape of the time.

A great place to read up on the history of McAlpin is the group’s Facebook page, McAlpin Florida History.

O’Brien, Florida

About seven miles south of McAlpin on 129 is the small town of O’Brien.  Established in 1880 as Obrine, its name changed to Obrine Station and finally O’Brien.  Upon driving into town, one of the first things to see is a brightly colored rooster perched atop the O’Brien Feed Depot and Hardware Store.

The charm and history don’t stop there.  Just a street to the west of 129 off County Road 349 is a row of old storefronts, one of which is still in use, the Village Emporium.  The shop wasn’t open when we passed through, but it’s definitely on the list of places to revisit as it is said to have its own history. Several other vacant buildings line the small dirt road.

Just past the row of old stores sits another old gem, an old wooden structure with boarded up windows and a tree that has become a part of the structure itself.

Back across 129 going west on CR 349, is another of those back roads you must take the time to enjoy.  It’s a curvy little road that holds a pleasant surprise – if you look for it.  Not easily visible from the road, back among the pine trees, is an old wood-frame house.  Its windows seem to be peering out from between the rows of trees as if they are eyes looking out from the past trying to get a glimpse into the future.

There are plenty of other small towns in North Central Florida to explore, each with their own unique features.  Although each one has its own history to tell, sometimes it’s the little oddities or the hidden treasures among the trees that make it unique.  Dare to venture off the well-traveled highways onto the county roads that lead you straight into Florida history at its finest.

FM Notes:  Here are a few other old towns you might want to read about:

DeLand

Monticello

Lake Placid

Micanopy

Wood and Swink General Store in Evinston

McIntosh

Solomon’s Castle

If you could imagine a castle anywhere in Florida, where would it be?  Palm Beach County?  Miami Beach?  How about Ona?

Yes, ONA!  A small community between Arcadia and Wauchula.  Still not sure where that is?  This is one place you may have to find using an atlas or the map app on your smart phone.

Solomon’s Castle is a shining three-story structure in the middle of a swamp.  Even though I grew up in Hardee County, I did not actually tour the castle for the first time until a couple of years ago.  At that time, Howard Solomon – the creative genius behind this castle – could be seen around the property – offering up commentary and stories to his guests.

I knew when I planned my most recent visit there had been a big change.  The king of the castle had recently passed away.

Solomon bought the property for the castle in 1972 and began building.  One of the first things to notice is the exterior – covered with aluminum printing plates from the local newspaper.  There are also 90 stained glass windows, including some dedicated to the arts, fairy tales, and even planets.

Inside the castle there’s a gallery of his artwork, made from recycled materials.  From gears and chains, to lawn mower parts and wire hangers, Solomon had a knack for taking mundane objects and turning them into masterpieces.  And he did it all without drawing any of it out on paper.

Carousel made with old turntables

Solomon’s art is also a testament to his sense of humor.  The tour guides readily say the castle is the “Pun Palace.”  Nearly all of the sculptures come with their own play on words.

The Lion’s Club – a lion sculpture with a baseball bat. (By the way, the lion weighs 190 pounds and took 45 days to make.)

The Florida Cadillac – an orange hauler which represents all the Cadillacs bought with oranges.

And Busting Out – the equal rights lady.

Like the Lion, many of his pieces were made out of oil drums.  The story is when Solomon said he was going to create an oil drum sculpture, people just showed up with the drums.

Today’s visit also included a tour of Solomon’s personal car collection, which he started in 2007.  Two large showrooms house the cars, along with other pieces of his art.  Snoopy gets to fly in the Red Baron’s plane, a hot-air balloon hovers overhead, and the wooden frame of a zeppelin hangs from the ceiling.  Also on display, Solomon’s last completed project – which you will have to go see for yourself, although here is a hint as to what it is.

Part of Solomon’s personal car collection

Snoopy

Hot air balloon

Zeppelin

A sneak peek at Howard Solomon’s last completed project

No visit to Solomon’s Castle would be complete without stopping at the Boat in the Moat for a bite to eat or a cool beverage.

 

Solomon’s Castle is definitely on the list of places to see in Florida.  It is what you would expect it to be:  fun, quirky and yes, a little corny.  But as even the youngest of visitors said during the tour, “Oh, I get it!”

And so will you!

NOTE:  A special thanks Howard Solomon’s daughter, Alane, for the hospitality.

 

 

Florida Backroad Travels

Most days are spent in the car heading to a specific location: the office, the grocery store, a restaurant or one of the many Florida parks and attractions on my list of places to visit.  But there are days when it’s good to just get out on the backroads with no real destination in mind.

County Road 665

Recently, my travels took me down some backroads in Hardee County – a rural county tucked in the middle of the state about 75 miles southeast of Tampa.  Hardee is where I grew up, graduated from high school, and where my family still lives.  If there’s one thing that can be said about this place, it’s that there are some beautiful backroads and a lot of opportunities to see “old Florida.”  You just have to look for them.

County Road 665

Whether you head to Hardee or any of the other smaller counties in Florida, there are a few things to keep in mind before setting out:

  • Carry a map – Some country roads are in areas with limited cell service. You probably wouldn’t get lost, but why take a chance?
  • Take your time – The speed limit is usually lower on these backroads anyway, and there’s nothing wrong with going that speed, or even slower. If you go too fast, you’re going to miss the sights, which defeats the purpose of backroad travel.
  • Look everywhere – Not everything there is to see will be by the side of the road. Deer, turkeys and other wildlife can often be spotted, but you have to look for them.  Look in the wooded areas, in pastures, in the middle of orange groves.  And don’t forget to look in the trees or on power poles.  Eagles and other birds can be spotted nesting here as well.
  • Take your camera and binoculars – The binoculars will give you a close up look at some of the wildlife and the camera will preserve your travels.
  • Watch out for the other guy – Believe it or not, you probably won’t be alone on some of these backroads. They are also popular for motorcyclists who spend their weekends out riding.

 

The state’s many backroads offer the adventurer mile after mile of “old Florida.”  Fill up your gas tank and head on out.  The scenery is well worth the drive.

Sweetwater Road

What are some of your favorite backroads to travel?  Leave us a comment!

 

 

A Step Back in Time: McIntosh, Florida

If you ever get a chance to just meander along some of Florida’s backroads, do it.  There is an abundance of treasures to be found.  On this particular trip, we set out specifically for McIntosh, a town with a population of 452, according to the 2010 U.S. Census.

Located off U.S. Highway 441, McIntosh is less than 20 miles south of Gainesville.  Not that you would get lost, but it is easy to find your way around town. Avenues are named A – J, and streets are numbered 1st – 12th.  Those streets and avenues are lined with towering oak trees with branches that seem to be reaching out and inviting you to take “a step back in time.”

This quaint community is home to more than 60 structures that qualify as historic buildings.  According to the National Register of Historic Places, the buildings include packing houses, churches, houses and the train depot.

One of the numerous churches in McIntosh | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

McIntosh History

Its history dates back to 1849 when land that included McIntosh was purchased at a government auction held in Micanopy. Development took off after the Florida Southern Railroad was built in 1881.  The route covered 81 miles from Palatka to Gainesville and Ocala and, when the train depot was built around 1895, it became the hub of citrus and vegetable shipping in the area.

McIntosh hasn’t changed in more than 80 years.  After the last train passed through in 1974, a local group known as The Friends of McIntosh purchased the depot and restored it.  The depot now houses a museum of railroad memorabilia. From the ticket counter to the baggage area, visitors can take that step back in time and experience a slice of life of old Florida railroad history.

McIntosh Train Depot | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

We visited for the sole purpose of attending the McIntosh 1890s Festival, sponsored by the “Friends” every October.   The group works to “preserve and enhance the natural and historic beauty of McIntosh,” and  sponsors the festival to assist in those efforts.  Live music, craft vendors and food lined the streets for this one day event which drew more than 35,000 people from around the state. (The first festival in 1974 drew 4,000 visitors.) Money from the event is used to fund a variety of projects, including scholarships, park infrastructure, funds to the local school and assistance for other community needs.

McIntosh 1890s Festival | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

A trip to McIntosh is the perfect way to spend a Saturday, whether you’re attending the October festival or just looking for a relaxing day.  Take a detour off the Interstate and enjoy more of the real Florida.

“You can’t travel the back roads very long without discovering a multitude of gentle people doing good for others with no expectation of gain or recognition. The everyday kindness of the back roads more than makes up for the acts of greed in the headlines. Some people out there spend their whole lives selflessly.”   Charles Kuralt, Journalist