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Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

July 6, 2017

Traveling the Back Roads of North Central Florida

July 6, 2017

Growing up in a small Florida town, going from Point A to Point B always required traveling back roads.  I don’t think I ever really appreciated those drives until I moved to the city and had to drive on interstates or four-lane roads, all the while navigating through traffic.  Now, I look for those back roads.  I look for the small towns and the old buildings.  I look for those “unique” features that define the communities.  I look for Old Florida.

Lloyd, Florida

Lloyd is one of those places I probably would not have known about had it not been for this adventure to “celebrate all things Florida.”  Named after Walter Lloyd, a blacksmith from New York, it is located about a mile south of Interstate 10 at Exit 217 near Tallahassee.  It is also the birthplace of Mary Edwards Bryan (1846-1913), a writer of more than 20 novels, including Manch (1880) and Wild Work (1881).

The history of this little town can be tied to the railroad industry, which lasted until the 1930s.  As home to the oldest brick railroad station in Florida, Lloyd is a place for Florida history buffs to visit.  The Lloyd Railroad Depot was built in 1858 and is also one of only three surviving railroad depots from the Civil War in Florida.  (The other two are in Tallahassee and Gainesville.)  The depot once served as a hub for transportation and trade and was used by Confederate soldiers for military purposes during the war.

You can only imagine this little depot in its heyday and the stories that unfolded on the station’s platform.

The old brick building has stood up against the measure of time and is now used as the town’s post office.  You can find it at the intersection of Highways 59 and 158.

McAlpin, Florida

After leaving Lloyd, we continued our back roads journey, weaving our way around to U.S. Highway 129, stopping just south of Live Oak in the unincorporated town of McAlpin.

McAlpin, settled in 1882, was named for Daniel M. McAlpin, who had been the owner of the Bulletin (forerunner to the Suwannee Democrat), station master at the railroad, tax assessor, and representative to the Florida legislature (1875).

I must admit, though, what caught my eye the numerous times driving through McAlpin, was the old Speed gas station sign. Weathered and faded, it stands next to an old abandoned store, reminiscent of a part of “old Florida” where family-owned stores and filling stations were part of the booming landscape of the time.

A great place to read up on the history of McAlpin is the group’s Facebook page, McAlpin Florida History.

O’Brien, Florida

About seven miles south of McAlpin on 129 is the small town of O’Brien.  Established in 1880 as Obrine, its name changed to Obrine Station and finally O’Brien.  Upon driving into town, one of the first things to see is a brightly colored rooster perched atop the O’Brien Feed Depot and Hardware Store.

The charm and history don’t stop there.  Just a street to the west of 129 off County Road 349 is a row of old storefronts, one of which is still in use, the Village Emporium.  The shop wasn’t open when we passed through, but it’s definitely on the list of places to revisit as it is said to have its own history. Several other vacant buildings line the small dirt road.

Just past the row of old stores sits another old gem, an old wooden structure with boarded up windows and a tree that has become a part of the structure itself.

Back across 129 going west on CR 349, is another of those back roads you must take the time to enjoy.  It’s a curvy little road that holds a pleasant surprise – if you look for it.  Not easily visible from the road, back among the pine trees, is an old wood-frame house.  Its windows seem to be peering out from between the rows of trees as if they are eyes looking out from the past trying to get a glimpse into the future.

There are plenty of other small towns in North Central Florida to explore, each with their own unique features.  Although each one has its own history to tell, sometimes it’s the little oddities or the hidden treasures among the trees that make it unique.  Dare to venture off the well-traveled highways onto the county roads that lead you straight into Florida history at its finest.

FM Notes:  Here are a few other old towns you might want to read about:

DeLand

Monticello

Lake Placid

Micanopy

Wood and Swink General Store in Evinston

McIntosh

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Leave a Comment · Labels: Family Friendly, History, Places Tagged: All things Florida, Day drives in Florida, Florida Backroad Travels, Florida Backroads, Florida day trips, Florida History, Florida railroad, Florida Travel Blog, Floridiana Magazine, Jefferson County Florida, Lloyd Florida, McAlpin Florida, O'Brien Florida, Off the beaten path, Old Florida, Places to go in Florida, Suwannee County Florida, Things to do in Florida

March 1, 2017

Solomon’s Castle

March 1, 2017

If you could imagine a castle anywhere in Florida, where would it be?  Palm Beach County?  Miami Beach?  How about Ona?

Yes, ONA!  A small community between Arcadia and Wauchula.  Still not sure where that is?  This is one place you may have to find using an atlas or the map app on your smart phone.

Solomon’s Castle is a shining three-story structure in the middle of a swamp.  Even though I grew up in Hardee County, I did not actually tour the castle for the first time until a couple of years ago.  At that time, Howard Solomon – the creative genius behind this castle – could be seen around the property – offering up commentary and stories to his guests.

I knew when I planned my most recent visit there had been a big change.  The king of the castle had recently passed away.

Solomon bought the property for the castle in 1972 and began building.  One of the first things to notice is the exterior – covered with aluminum printing plates from the local newspaper.  There are also 90 stained glass windows, including some dedicated to the arts, fairy tales, and even planets.

Inside the castle there’s a gallery of his artwork, made from recycled materials.  From gears and chains, to lawn mower parts and wire hangers, Solomon had a knack for taking mundane objects and turning them into masterpieces.  And he did it all without drawing any of it out on paper.

Carousel made with old turntables

Solomon’s art is also a testament to his sense of humor.  The tour guides readily say the castle is the “Pun Palace.”  Nearly all of the sculptures come with their own play on words.

The Lion’s Club – a lion sculpture with a baseball bat. (By the way, the lion weighs 190 pounds and took 45 days to make.)

The Florida Cadillac – an orange hauler which represents all the Cadillacs bought with oranges.

And Busting Out – the equal rights lady.

Like the Lion, many of his pieces were made out of oil drums.  The story is when Solomon said he was going to create an oil drum sculpture, people just showed up with the drums.

Today’s visit also included a tour of Solomon’s personal car collection, which he started in 2007.  Two large showrooms house the cars, along with other pieces of his art.  Snoopy gets to fly in the Red Baron’s plane, a hot-air balloon hovers overhead, and the wooden frame of a zeppelin hangs from the ceiling.  Also on display, Solomon’s last completed project – which you will have to go see for yourself, although here is a hint as to what it is.

Part of Solomon’s personal car collection

Snoopy

Hot air balloon

Zeppelin

A sneak peek at Howard Solomon’s last completed project

No visit to Solomon’s Castle would be complete without stopping at the Boat in the Moat for a bite to eat or a cool beverage.

 

Solomon’s Castle is definitely on the list of places to see in Florida.  It is what you would expect it to be:  fun, quirky and yes, a little corny.  But as even the youngest of visitors said during the tour, “Oh, I get it!”

And so will you!

NOTE:  A special thanks Howard Solomon’s daughter, Alane, for the hospitality.

 

 

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2 Comments · Labels: Family Friendly, Places Tagged: Castle in the swamp, Day drives in Florida, Florida Backroad Travels, Florida Backroads, Florida day trips, Florida History, Florida Travel Blog, Floridiana Magazine, Off the beaten path, Old Florida, Places to go in Florida, Solomon's Castle, Things to do in Florida, Unusual places in Florida

February 26, 2017

Florida Backroad Travels

February 26, 2017

Most days are spent in the car heading to a specific location: the office, the grocery store, a restaurant or one of the many Florida parks and attractions on my list of places to visit.  But there are days when it’s good to just get out on the backroads with no real destination in mind.

County Road 665

Recently, my travels took me down some backroads in Hardee County – a rural county tucked in the middle of the state about 75 miles southeast of Tampa.  Hardee is where I grew up, graduated from high school, and where my family still lives.  If there’s one thing that can be said about this place, it’s that there are some beautiful backroads and a lot of opportunities to see “old Florida.”  You just have to look for them.

County Road 665

Whether you head to Hardee or any of the other smaller counties in Florida, there are a few things to keep in mind before setting out:

  • Carry a map – Some country roads are in areas with limited cell service. You probably wouldn’t get lost, but why take a chance?
  • Take your time – The speed limit is usually lower on these backroads anyway, and there’s nothing wrong with going that speed, or even slower. If you go too fast, you’re going to miss the sights, which defeats the purpose of backroad travel.
  • Look everywhere – Not everything there is to see will be by the side of the road. Deer, turkeys and other wildlife can often be spotted, but you have to look for them.  Look in the wooded areas, in pastures, in the middle of orange groves.  And don’t forget to look in the trees or on power poles.  Eagles and other birds can be spotted nesting here as well.
  • Take your camera and binoculars – The binoculars will give you a close up look at some of the wildlife and the camera will preserve your travels.
  • Watch out for the other guy – Believe it or not, you probably won’t be alone on some of these backroads. They are also popular for motorcyclists who spend their weekends out riding.

 

The state’s many backroads offer the adventurer mile after mile of “old Florida.”  Fill up your gas tank and head on out.  The scenery is well worth the drive.

Sweetwater Road

What are some of your favorite backroads to travel?  Leave us a comment!

 

 

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6 Comments · Labels: Family Friendly, History, Places Tagged: Day drives in Florida, Florida Backroad Travels, Florida Backroads, Florida day trips, Florida History, Florida Travel Blog, Floridiana Magazine, Off the beaten path, Old Florida, Places to go in Florida, Things to do in Florida

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