Floridiana Magazine

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Havana: Florida’s Friendliest Small Town

From its heyday as a major shade tobacco producer to its popularity for antiques and vintage collectable shops, Havana is one of those small Florida towns that exudes southern charm. A walk through the museum, the shops, or a stop in one of the local restaurants provide visitors with personal experiences of why Havana is considered Florida’s Friendliest Small Town.

History of Havana

Like many small Florida towns, railroad expansion provided the catalyst for Havana’s formation. A track was completed for the Georgia, Florida and Alabama Railroad in 1902 from Cuthbert, Georgia to Tallahassee, Florida, and in 1904 the small town of Havana began to take shape. Within two years, families had moved in and businesses were opened, and in 1906, Havana was founded.  The name “Havana,” proposed by local schoolteacher James Mathewson, pays homage to the Cuban tobacco cultivated in the area. It was a crop that would carry this town until the late 1960s.

While Havana was prospering in the tobacco fields, a fire in 1916 destroyed 24 stores and residences in or near the business district. According to an article that appeared in The News Leader, Richmond, VA on Saturday, March 18, 1916, only three buildings were left standing. The town would have to rebuild.

The News Leader, Richmond, VA, March 18, 1916

Shade Tobacco History

Even though Havana was not incorporated until 1906, the history of shade tobacco farming goes back to the 1800s. Early growers discovered that if tobacco plants grew in the shade of a tree, they produced thinner outer leaves and resulted in a more delicate taste. Growers adapted to this discovery and the “shaded” fields evolved from wooden slatting to plastic mesh.

Miles Henry Womack in a field of tobacco being grown under slats – Havana, Florida. 1910 (circa). State Archives of Florida, Florida Memory. Accessed 20 Mar. 2023.<https://www.floridamemory.com/items/show/28703>

Magnus Delacy Peavy and his farm hands in front of a tobacco barn – Havana, Florida. 1910 (circa). State Archives of Florida, Florida Memory. Accessed 20 Mar. 2023.<https://www.floridamemory.com/items/show/30349>

At the peak of its tobacco farming, Havana and the surrounding areas were home to more than 2,000 tobacco barns that housed the tobacco used as the outer wrappers of cigars. Over the years, those barns have fallen prey to neglect and weather, and their numbers are nearly non-existent. If you drive around Gadsden County today, you can see some of them. There’s evidence that the property owners are trying to restore some of them.

Tobacco Barn in Gadsden County | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Tobacco Barn in Gadsden County | Photo taken by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Tobacco Barn in Gadsden County under renovation | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

At one time there were 2,000 to 3,000 people working in the industry in Havana, and the value of the crops grew to $22 million. But unfortunately, that all ended in the late 1960s. One of the main reasons was that growers in South and Central America were able to produce the wrappers at a cheaper cost. New technology also allowed the outer coverings to be produced thinner and at scale.

What to Do in Havana

Shade Tobacco Museum

First and foremost, a stop in the museum is a must. A self-guided tour provides an in-depth glimpse of a once profitable industry and the work that went into successful crops. Read about the process from cultivation to cigar making.  Get a close look at some of the farming implements used, the way tobacco leaves were strung, and the molds used for the cigar making process.

Entrance to Shade Tobacco Museum| Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Boxes used to size tobacco leaves | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Tobacco Wrapper Exhibit, Shade Tobacco Museum | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Tobacco leaves | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

While the museum’s main exhibit centers around tobacco, visitors can learn more about schools, churches, and businesses in the area.

Cigars can be purchased in the Shade Tobacco Museum | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The museum is open Saturdays from 10:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and on Sundays from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Shops and Restaurants

When the tobacco industry folded, Havana went through a rebirth of sorts.  Downtown is now lined with antique shops, furniture, boutiques, arts, and restaurants, and holds numerous events throughout the year to draw patrons into Havana.

The Planter’s Exchange, a hub of activity in Havana | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shops and restaurants line the streets | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Clock and fountain | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

What to See

Murals

Like other small Florida towns, murals now grace the sides of downtown businesses, portraying the past and offering a look into the future.  Besides building murals, there are also quilt murals – all painted by Florida artists.

Havana Motor Co. Mural | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Train Mural, paying homage to the railroad industry in Gadsden County | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Havana Mural | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Havana State Bank

Work was completed in July 2024 on the old Havana State Bank building (now known as the Slappey Building) to restore it to the way it was in the 1950s.  A state historical grant is assisting with the funding for the renovation efforts. Although some work has already been done, the rebuilding will begin May 2023.   Stop by for a look now, and then make plans to go once it has been restored to its original beauty.

Historic Havana State Bank | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Havana State Bank | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

How to Get To Havana, FL

If you are traveling Interstate 10, you will want to exit onto Highway 27 at mile marker 199. Travel about 12 miles north into the heart of the town.  (It’s also located six miles south of the Georgia state line.) The drive to Havana provides some scenic views of the old Florida countryside. Whether you are visiting the Shade Tobacco Museum, shopping, or dining in one of the quaint little restaurants, you will soon find out why Havana is considered the Friendliest Small Town in Florida.

Please take a look at the slide show for more photos of our trip to Havana.

 

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The Harvey Trucks | May They Rust in Peace

Driving through smaller towns can reap big benefits – whether it’s a quaint Mom and Pop restaurant, a once-majestic old home left to the elements, or a roadside honey stand still operating on the honor system. And then there are those finds that, at first glance, only seem suited as photo opportunities, yet in the end have their own stories to tell.

One such site is known to the locals of Wakulla County as the Harvey Trucks, owned by long-time resident Pat Harvey and his family.  Located on Crawfordville Highway about two miles north of the intersection of 319 and 98, these old relics once served the Harvey family farm well, first as working vehicles, then later as parts for newer ones. When their use was exhausted, Harvey originally planned on hauling them off for scrap metal.  But once he moved the trucks to the side of the road around 1997 and lined them up, he decided he liked the way they looked in that spot. Little did he know at the time that these two dozen cars and trucks would become the roadside attraction they are today.

The vehicles sit in a semi-circle in chronological order, some as old as the early 1900s and others as “new” as the mid 1970s. Mostly Fords and Dodges, a car buff might also see an old REO Speedwagon front and center.

For folks just passing with no knowledge of the history behind these trucks, they may look like part of a junk yard. For Harvey however, they conjure up pleasant memories. In an interview with WFSU, Harvey recounted some of his most vivid ones.

Among them, the first truck he ever rode in – a rusted 1941 Ford pickup. Then there’s a ’59 Ford he took his driver’s test in, as well as a dark green station wagon which was his family’s first car and the one he used for dates. Although the station wagon is rusted out, a tinge of green paint is evident in several places on the exterior, while the interior still sports faded green and tan seats.

There’s also a cattle truck that did more than just transport cattle. It was used for leisure activities. Harvey remembers sitting on a board put up across the back of the truck and riding down the highway, bugs splatting like a motorcycle without a windshield.

Each vehicle has its own story to tell and as the story of their existence has grown, so, too has their popularity. Over the years, the trucks have become a landmark of sorts. They are used as the backdrop for prom and homecoming pictures, not to mention the subject for photographers and artists alike, whether it’s for their rust and neglect, or just their novelty.

Unfortunately, the years have taken their toll on these old relics. Trees have sprouted through the rusted floorboards; vines have grown around and inside them; and vandals have taken care of what Mother Nature could not. Most are missing all of their emblems or pieces of chrome. Windows have been broken. The interiors stripped of gear shifts and odometers. Still, others got their own “paint job.”  Years ago, there was a sign that sat in the front row of the trucks that read “May They Rust in Peace.”  Sadly, even that sign is gone.

At one time, the Harveys thought they would have to clear away the trucks because of a city ordinance passed to keep folks from letting junk cars sit in their yard in public view.  Fortunately, the Harvey Trucks were grandfathered in and can remain indefinitely.

Visiting the Trucks

Heading south on 319 past Crawfordville and before Medart, the trucks can be seen on the right side of the road. There is no sign that says you have arrived, so it’s easy to drive past the first time. A circular drive makes it easy to park and get out, but it’s advisable to wear closed-toe shoes because of broken glass, overgrown trees and shrubs, and who knows what else. Take your camera along and capture your own photos of these old trucks. I’ve been a couple of times and have taken a picture of something new each time.

Enjoy some of my photos in the slideshow below and stay tuned for another post of just my photos.

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Bradley’s Country Store

Whether it was during my time at Florida State University in the 80s, or family visits to Tallahassee to see my uncle and his family at Thanksgiving, Bradley’s Country Store was always one of those places we had to go. We’d load up on sausage then count the days until our next visit.

It wasn’t until I started this blog in 2017 that I began to appreciate the value of hidden gems like Bradley’s. So, when I moved to Tallahassee in October 2020, I put it at the top of my list of old Florida places to visit near my new home. My only question: Why did I wait so long to go?

The drive to Bradley’s is well worth the 12-mile trip from Tallahassee. Two-lane canopy-covered Centerville Road provides a peaceful, relaxing journey. It’s a journey that is regularly made by thousands of locals, as well as visitors from throughout the Southeast. When we arrived on a recent Saturday, the front parking spaces were full, as well as the adjoining picnic area and spaces across the street – a testament to its popularity.

The Store

From the road, Bradley’s looks like you would expect an old country store to look.  There is no glitz or glamour, no neon lights to draw you in.  In fact, the exterior of the store holds true to its heritage, looking much the same as it did in 1927 when Bradley’s opened its doors for the first time. The storefront itself is iconic and can be seen in photos across social media platforms. The front porch is a throwback to grandma’s porch, with its wooden rocking chairs, reaching out to the traveler to “come and sit a spell.”

Inside, the old country store charm continues. The history of the store can be seen on walls and counters wherever you turn. Three aisles of merchandise, from fresh vegetables to Bradley’s branded sauces and preserves, and old-fashioned hard candy await visitors.  An old Coca Cola drink case filled with bottled sodas sits just inside the front doors, along with a juke box and a manual cash register that no doubt has seen its share of sales. Photos of the Bradley family, along with old newspaper clippings, and a framed presidential note of thanks for Bradley’s grits are also on display.

The Sausage

The main attraction, however, is at the back of the store, Bradley’s famous country smoked sausage. A chalkboard spells out the offerings, a meat case holds the goods, but it’s not until you bite into the sausage that you understand why it is so popular. Bradley’s is very selective about the ingredients in the sausage they sell.  It is seasoned and smoked using the same recipe Grandma Mary Bradley used four generations ago. Oak and green hickory are used to cure the sausage out in the smokehouse behind the store. The aroma from the smokehouse permeates your senses as you walk past it.

On any given Saturday, you can expect to stand in line to get one of Bradley’s daily lunch specials – a six-inch sausage dog with chips and a drink.  The line moves fast, and the service is friendly and personable.  While the sausage dogs are divine, make sure to order up a pound or two of the sausage links.  If you get back home and want more (or want to share with friends and family across the country), Bradley’s also ships their sausage.  Just visit their website to place your order.

Grits!

While sausage is Bradley’s claim to fame, another draw to the store is its country milled grits.  Just outside of the main store is the mill house which houses the grist mill used for grinding corn into cornmeal and grits. History has it when the mill opened nearly a century ago, local farmers and sharecroppers visited the mill house to have their own corn ground for personal use.

True to history, the mill was cranking the Saturday we were there – ground corn falling into tubs below, an old Ford 600 tractor providing the power to keep the mill churning.

Bradleys_WorkingMill

Visiting Bradley’s Country Store

Four generations of the Bradley family have kept the business going and thriving, while at the same time holding on to family traditions. As their brochure states, they are “A Link with the Past.”  So, if you’re tired of today’s rat race, take a visit to yesterday.

Bradley’s Country Store is located at 10655 Centerville Road, just outside of Tallahassee. Once you get there, plan on staying awhile and enjoy the peaceful country atmosphere.   Sit on the front porch or enjoy your lunch on the picnic tables under the trees.  Additional tables and a pond are located just across the street.

Bradley’s is open Monday through Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.  The store is closed Sundays and major holidays.

Whether you are roaming the aisles in the store itself, or walking around the grounds, it is truly an old Florida treasure to be experienced.

Watch the slideshow below for more photos of our visit to Bradley’s Country Store.

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Things to See and Do in Apalachicola

There are some places you can visit over and over again and not see everything there is to see or do everything there is to do.  Those same places change over time and, from one visit to the next, may not offer the same “landmarks” you made it a point to see.  One such town is Apalachicola, on Florida’s Forgotten Coast.  As its name translates, it is the “land of the friendly people.”

Brief History of Apalachicola

Even though Apalachicola wasn’t settled until the 1820s, its history goes back much further – Native Americans thousands of years ago, along with European influence by the Spanish and English.  Florida was ceded to United States in 1821.  Originally named Cottonton, then incorporated as West Point, it was renamed Apalachicola in 1831.

As you drive over the bridge on US 98 heading west, the history of Apalachicola is easy to understand.  Its location along the Apalachicola River where it meets Apalachicola Bay, set this town up as a port for shipping – making it at one time the third largest cotton shipping port on the Gulf of Mexico.  Besides cotton, Apalachicola also thrived in the sponge and timber industries.  The sponge trade, beginning in the 1870s, became the third largest in the state.  One of the original sponge warehouses, The Sponge Exchange, remains in downtown Apalachicola.

Another major industry in Apalachicola, and one that remains today, is the seafood industry. Apalachicola is known throughout the United States for its oysters.

Historic Homes in Apalachicola

A drive through the historic district of Apalachicola is like a drive back in time. There are more than 900 historic homes, buildings and other sites within the district to see, ten of them designated as Florida Heritage Landmarks. A couple you don’t want to miss include the Dr. Alvan W. Chapman House, the Hanserd-Fry House, and perhaps the most famous in Apalachicola, the Orman House.

Dr. Alvan W. Chapman House – This house was built in 1847 for Dr. Chapman who, besides being a physician, was also a botanist.  He is known for his research and writings on the flora of the South.  Chapman was very active in Apalachicola, having served as county judge, mayor and collector of customs.

Hanserd-Fry House –  Located on 5th Street, the Hanserd-Fry House was built around 1845 and served as the residence of several individuals.  The first-known owner was Joseph Hanserd who lived there as early as 1866, followed by Kate Ayers in 1872, with Captain Weber Fry buying it in 1880.  Fry was a riverboat captain on the Apalachicola River. The house served as the Apalachicola Museum of Art from 2006 – 2016 and now is the office and visitor center for the St. Vincent National Wildlife Refuge.

The Orman House – The Orman House is a Florida State Park and sits on a bluff overlooking the Apalachicola River. It is a must see on a visit to Apalachicola.  The house was built in 1838 by Thomas Orman, a cotton merchant and businessman credited with being a key to the success of the town.

Touring this stately home takes you back to the 1800s.  As you walk through the house, you get a glimpse of the Orman family lifestyle.  The house is filled with old family photographs, period fashion, ornate fixtures, a formal dining room, a child’s room and so much more.

Outside you can catch a glimpse of an old barn, one of the original servants’ houses, and take a tour of the gardens.

Guided tours are available Thursday through Monday for a $2.00 charge.  It is closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.

Other Things to See and Do in Apalachicola

Three Soldiers Detail Statue

In front of the Gorman House sits Veterans Memorial Park, with the Three Soldiers Detail Statue as its centerpiece.  The statue was dedicated in 2008 as a tribute to Vietnam Veterans from the south. Cast from the original molds of the statue located at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this statue is lifelike and humbling.

John Gorrie Museum State Park

Also known as the Ice Box Museum, this museum pays tribute to John Gorrie, a physician who moved to Apalachicola in the early 1830s. Gorrie was concerned for his yellow fever patients and wanted to find a way to cool their rooms.  As a result, he invented a mechanical device that produced ice, and received the first U.S. Patent for mechanical refrigeration in 1851.

Apalachicola Riverfront Park  

Riverfront Park overlooks the Apalachicola River and offers up a little more of the town’s history.  Read up on the sponge industry, watch the fishing boats go by or just enjoy sitting by the fountain.  The park also serves as the backdrop for many of the local events.

Fun Shops

There are always those stores in town you don’t want to miss.  In Apalachicola, it is The Tin Shed.  If you’re looking for something nautical, this is the place.  Don’t forget to stop by the buoy wall – it’s a popular place for photos.  (Note: Since this post was written originally, The Tin Shed has moved locations and the buoy wall is no longer there.)

Food and Drinks

With seafood as its main industry, Apalachicola serves up some great food in its many restaurants. One of our favorites is the Up the Creek Raw Bar.  Whether you sit inside or choose one of the tables outside, the food and the views are good.

While you’re in Apalachicola, don’t forget to stop by the Olde Time Soda Fountain.  It’s been dishing up these delicious treats since 1905.  Take your seat at the counter and order from a variety of flavors or shakes.  A great place to take the kids, but a word of warning, there are a lot of fun items in the gift shop that they’ll want to take home!

For the adults, make a stop by Oyster City Brewing Company on Avenue D.  If you’re looking for a cold beer brewed right here in Apalachicola, make plans to stop by.

Gone but Not Forgotten – The Venezellos

The few times I have visited Apalachicola always involved a stop in front of the Venezellos at the corner of Avenue E and Water Street.  The boat was built in 1915 in Apalachicola by Demo George (Demosthenes George Margomenos).  It always provided a great subject for photographs, even in its weathered state.  With each visit, the boat showed a little more wear.  A few more boards were rotten, the weeds grew taller.  Then, in October 2017, the boat was taken apart and removed.  A Facebook page has been set up by Demo George’s family to remember the boat through photos.

Fun Fact

Bing Crosby recorded the song “Apalachicola, F-L-A” in 1947 with the Andrews Sisters after meeting professional baseball player and Apalachicola native Jimmy Bloodworth.  Crosby was partial owner of the Pittsburgh Pirates and met Bloodworth in 1946, when he played for the Pirates.  When asked where he was from, Bloodworth said, “Apalachicola, F-L-A!”  The song was used in the move “The Road to Rio” starring Bing Crosby and Bob Hope.

For your listening enjoyment, Bing Crosby singing Apalachicola, F-L-A.

There are so many things to see and do in Apalachicola, one trip isn’t enough.  Two trips probably aren’t enough either.  History, food, shopping and so much more await the Florida explorer in all of us.

Photo Gallery from Apalachicola

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Museum of Florida History

What’s the saying about “the best-laid plans?”  On occasion, those plans for a day of “celebrating all things Florida” are impacted for one reason or another.  The day we loaded up and headed towards the St. Marks Lighthouse in Wakulla County, Mother Nature had a different idea.  As the skies turned gray and it was obvious we were heading into rain, we went on to Plan B: The Museum of Florida History in Tallahassee.

Not all museums are child-friendly, but the Museum of Florida History is. Our group included my grandchildren, ages six months, three and five.  Obviously, the two older ones were the ones we had to keep interested – and from the moment we arrived, they were!

Exhibits

Just inside the door, visitors are greeted by a mastodon, found in Wakulla Springs and one of the original exhibits from the Museum’s opening in 1977.

Mastodon found in Wakulla Springs

The Museum houses four permanent exhibits: Forever Changed: La Florida 1513 – 1821, Florida in the Civil War, World War II and Naval Ships Named Florida. Colorful displays, informational panels, and replicas of Spanish ships provide visitors with a “walk through time.”

In addition to the exhibits themselves, there are more than 45,700 artifacts on display throughout the museum.  Military artifacts from the Civil War and World War II are featured prominently in the Museum, as well as jewelry and gold coins.

Hands-On Displays

Many of the exhibits also offer opportunities to interact with Florida history – whether it’s picking up a six-pound shot from an iron cannon on a Spanish merchant vessel…

Or taking the helm of a river boat.

And for the older visitors, knot tying is a skill you can practice on board the Spanish ship.

Florida history truly comes to life for visitors of all ages with these fun displays.

Grandma’s Attic

One of the favorite hands-on exhibits is Grandma’s Attic.  Imagine what it was like to walk up the stairs to the attic and finding a treasure trove of things to play with.  That’s how this exhibit is set up – housing all those things Grandma didn’t want to get rid of.  Games, clothes, and an old stove are just a few of the items to entertain visitors.  And it’s not just for the little tykes.  There is something in this attic people of all ages can remember.

Temporary Exhibits

Besides the permanent displays, the Museum houses temporary exhibits.  The current exhibit (through July 23, 2017) is Beaches, Creatures and Cowboys: Florida Movie Posters.  Representing films in Florida from the 1920s to the present, there are nearly 50 movie posters and other advertising memorabilia on display.

It’s fun to see how many of them you knew were filmed in Florida, like Apollo 13 or The Yearling, but, did you know Edward Scissorhands also has a Florida tie?  You’ll even see a poster for Creature from the Black Lagoon, filmed in nearby Wakulla Springs.

Other Things to See

There is so much more to see at the Museum than just these exhibits. The Museum houses a complete collection of art from each of the 26 Florida Highwaymen, a group of African American artists who traveled the highways of south Florida selling their paintings in the 1960s and 1970s.

Even after you leave the building, the exhibits continue.  Just outside the Museum is Florida’s World War II Monument. Completed in 2004, it is dedicated to the 248,000 Floridians who served in the Armed Services during the war, including the 4,600 who paid the ultimate sacrifice.  The centerpiece of the memorial is a replica of Florida’s pillar at the National World War II Memorial in Washington, D.C.

The monument sits at the end of a path lined with markers for each of the state’s 67 counties and provides local connections and reverence for the war effort.

 

FM Notes

The Museum of Florida History is open Monday – Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Sunday and holidays from Noon to 4:30 p.m.  Admission is free.  It’s a great place to spend the day – whether to get in out of the heat or in out of the Florida rain.