Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

Ponce Inlet Light Station and Museum

There are some locations that seem to beckon you to visit.  The Ponce Inlet Lighthouse is one of them.  Reaching 175 feet majestically into the sky, this red structure is the tallest lighthouse in the state, and second tallest masonry lighthouse in the United States, behind the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse in the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Ponce Inlet Lighthouse

The Lighthouse

The day we visited, the lighthouse wasn’t even on my radar.  (I’m certainly not one who would go climbing something that tall just for the fun of it!) Standing at the base and looking up, the lighthouse didn’t look that formidable.   But try climbing the 203 steps and you will definitely have a different opinion.  I know I did.  Thankfully, on the lower levels there were places to stop and catch our breath.  But as we got closer to the top, it felt like the walls were closing in.  No wonder.  Its 32-foot diameter base slowly shrinks to just 12 feet at the top.  Once there, though, the view – even on a cloudy day – is breathtaking – water everywhere you look.  After all, it is located ten miles south of Daytona Beach, where the Halifax River and Indian River flow into the Atlantic Ocean.

Looking out at the Atlantic Ocean

Ponce Inlet Light Station Museum

Construction on the lighthouse began in 1884 and was completed in 1887. Still an active lighthouse, it also serves as the focal point of the Ponce Inlet Light Station and Museum, which includes all of the original dwellings of the keepers as well as other support buildings.  Ponce Inlet is one of the only Light Stations in the United States that has these buildings intact.

Keeper’s Dwellings

There are three Keeper’s Dwellings that serve as the museum: Principal Keeper’s, First Assistant Keeper’s, and Second Assistant Keeper’s.  Each building provides visitors with a different piece of history.  The Principal Keeper’s Dwelling once was home to the principal keeper and his family. Now it houses exhibits about  lighthouses of the world, lighthouses for airplanes, and Native Americans in Florida, to name a few.

Principal Keeper’s Dwelling

The First Assistant’s Dwelling is not open for actual tours, but can be seen through viewing panels on the front and back porches.  It was named in honor of Gladys Meyer Davis whose father served as the last Lighthouse Service Principal Keeper at the lighthouse.  The building is furnished as it would have been in the late 1800s or early 1900s. In the Second Assistant Keeper’s Dwelling, visitors can learn more about the local community, from beach racing to the lives of the keepers and their families.  This building actually served as the first town hall for Ponce Inlet in the early 1960s.

First Assistant’s Dwelling

Lens Exhibit

A visit to the lighthouse wouldn’t be complete with going inside of the Lens Exhibit Building.  Before this trip, I did not know about the different types of lenses that are used in lighthouses.  I still don’t know a lot, but what I do know, is this is an impressive collection.  The rotating first order Fresnel lens from the Cape Canaveral Lighthouse is on display as well as the original fixed first order Fresnel lens that was used from 1887 – 1933 in the Ponce Inlet Lighthouse.

Some of the lenses on display

Sign explaining the history of the Cape Canaveral lens

Learn more about the history of Ponce Inlet Lighthouse through other exhibits onsite.  The Ponce De Leon Inlet Light Station and Museum is open daily from 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.  From Memorial Day to Labor Day the hours are extended until 9:00 p.m. with the last tour beginning at 8:00 p.m.  There is an entrance fee which you pay inside the gift shop.

 

Floridiana Magazine (FM) Footnotes:

The Light Station and Museum is operated by the Ponce De Leon Inlet Lighthouse Preservation Association, Inc.  It was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1998 and is now visited by more than 170,000 people a year.

According to the Florida Lighthouse Association, there are 30 lighthouses in Florida and preserving all of them would take nearly $20 million dollars.

For those who visit lighthouses on a regular basis, visit United States Lighthouse Society Passport Program and join the free Passport Club.  There is a charge to actually purchase your passport. Information on that is also available on the website.

 

Wakulla Springs State Park

Even when exploring isn’t the main goal for a weekend, there is always a desire to find someplace nearby to visit for the day.  I recently traveled to Tallahassee to see my granddaughter perform in her school’s spring program.  The weather couldn’t have been more perfect for the weekend, and we knew our Saturday plans should include someplace outside.  Our final choice:  Wakulla Springs Lodge and State Park, about 16 miles south of Tallahassee, truly a slice of “old Florida.”

What made this excursion more enjoyable was seeing it through the eyes of my grandkids.

Wakulla Springs State Park | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

First, a little about the park.  Wakulla Springs State Park incorporates 6,000 acres and was developed as a wildlife sanctuary by Edward Ball who purchased the property in 1934.  There is a lodge on the property, one of the largest springs in the world, a nature trail, and a river tour that offers an up-close look at the wildlife along the Wakulla River.

Wakulla Lodge | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The Lodge

The lodge was completed in 1937 and is still operational today.  Walking inside you can’t help but notice its grandeur.  Everything from the grand piano, to the furnishings, to the 10-foot ceilings.

The ceiling at Wakulla Lodge | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Also in the lodge, a bit of its history is on display, including a photograph of some of the original groundskeepers of the park.  It’s funny what kids pick up on, because later in the day when my four-year-old granddaughter was looking through the photos on my phone, she saw that picture and said, “My great-granddaddy is in that picture.”  Her paternal grandmother, along on our trip, says “It was nothing but swamp land, and he and all those men cleared it out and kept the grounds.”

While inside, you don’t want to miss “Old Joe,” an 11-foot 2-inch stuffed alligator. He was once a famous resident along the river, but met with a tragic death in 1966.  Needless to say, he is still a hit – and kids and grandkids are amazed by just how big he was.

Checking out “Old Joe” | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Wakulla Springs was also home to some famous movies.  Tarzan’s Secret Treasure was filmed here in 1941.  Then there was The Creature from the Black Lagoon (1950s) that used Wakulla Springs for most of its underwater scenes.  An FSU student and part-time lifeguard at the springs played the part of the creature in those scenes.  (Both of these movies are talked about more in the River Boat Tour.)

Movie Memorabilia, Wakulla Springs | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Also, a hit of the lodge, the Soda Fountain which offers some delicious sweet treats and is home to the longest marble counter ever built:  70 feet six inches long.

Soda Fountain at Wakulla Lodge | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The Springs and Boat Tour

Of course the draw to the park is the spring itself.  Wakulla Springs is one of the largest in the world.  It measures 315 feet in diameter, is almost 185 feet deep, and pumps 250 – 300 million gallons of water a day.  A beach and three-story dive tower are favorites among park visitors.

Dive Tower at Wakulla Springs | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

When the water is clear, a glass bottom boat tour can provide beautiful glimpses into the bowl of the spring.  Unfortunately, the boats don’t run as much as they used to and you can no longer see some of the Springs’ treasures:  a mastodon, schools of fish, or Henry-the-Pole-Vaulting Fish.

The River Boat Tour may not offer all of the beauty below the surface, but there is still plenty to see.  A 40-minute leisurely ride around a two-mile loop is a must for visitors.  Our tour guide was friendly, provided answers to questions, and allowed us to drift around points of interest, which included close up views of birds…

alligators…

and amazing views of the river.

Cameras are a must to capture the beauty of this state park.  Binoculars are a good idea, too, even for the youngest of passengers.  As my grandson said, “I can’t see anything without them!”

This is definitely one of those places for the whole family to enjoy.  Plan for a whole day for picnicking, swimming, playing on the playground or visiting inside the lodge.  Just make sure you get your boat tickets early.  They do sell out.

 Floridiana Magazine (FM) Footnote:  Wakulla Springs State Park is on the National Register of Historic Places and is designated as a National Natural Landmark.  It’s believed that Wakulla means “river of the crying bird” or “strange and mysterious waters.”

De Leon Springs State Park

With more than 160 state parks in Florida, it would take a little over three years to visit them all, if you only visited one each weekend.  Those parks are some of the best places to experience the “old” Florida and chances are, no matter where you live in the state, you are within a short driving distance of one of them.

If you live in or near Volusia County, you have a gem in your own backyard – De Leon Springs State Park. The park covers 625 acres and includes a spring that pumps 19 million gallons of water a day and offers something for everyone: water activities, hiking, learning history, picnicking and even pancakes!

Water Activities 

With a spring boasting year round temperatures of 72 degrees, it is a popular location for swimming and snorkeling.  Besides swimming, you can rent canoes, kayaks or paddleboats and explore the paddling trail that provides access to the Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge.  There’s also a free boat ramp if you choose to launch your own boat.  And of course, what would water activities be if fishing weren’t included?  Fish in the St. John’s River or the spring run.  Just be sure you have a freshwater fishing license if you plan on casting a line.

Great place for a swim! De Leon Springs State Park | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Rent a canoe to explore the waterways.

Hiking and Birding

De Leon Springs offers up three trails, perfect for both the casual walker and the more serious hiker. One of the trails – The Nature Trail – is a half-mile paved trail and boardwalk that winds through a cypress swamp and leads you to Old Methuselah – a cypress tree that’s more than 500 years old. There are also two other trails – Monkey Island Trail and the Wild Persimmon Hiking Trail.  Wild Persimmon is four miles long and is not for the casual walker.  The park is part of the Great Florida Birding Trail, so take along your binoculars and keep an eye to the sky (or the trees).

The Nature Trail to Old Methuselah

 

History

If you are a history buff, there is plenty of history to learn about at De Leon Springs. Nearly 30 years ago a dugout canoe – said to be 6,000 years old – was found in the spring.  Other historical notes include the arrival of the first Spanish friars in the 1590s, the only water-powered sugar mill in Florida, a tourist resort, hotel and casino, a roadside attraction with a jungle cruise, and its current use as the De Leon Springs State Park.  There are plenty of artifacts left over from the time as a sugar mill and most of them are located near the Sugar Mill Restaurant.

One of many historic structures in the park.

Pancakes

Yes! Pancakes!  The Sugar Mill Restaurant at the park is a favorite among guests. Located inside the replica of the old sugar mill, what makes this restaurant unique is that each table has its own griddle.  Visitors are provided  homemade batter and actually pour and flip their own pancakes.  Additional items, like chocolate chips, bananas and blueberries can be ordered to customize your pancakes.  Plan on a wait time, as this is one of the hot spots at the park.

Picnicking

No matter what your reason for visiting the park, make sure you pack a picnic lunch and enjoy eating at one of the picnic tables.  Two pavilions are available for free on a first come, first serve basis, or you can rent one of four other pavilions.  Kids will love the playground!

If you’re looking for a little day trip, pack up the car.  The park is located off Highway 17 in De Leon Springs, about an hour north of Orlando.

A Step Back in Time: McIntosh, Florida

If you ever get a chance to just meander along some of Florida’s backroads, do it.  There is an abundance of treasures to be found.  On this particular trip, we set out specifically for McIntosh, a town with a population of 452, according to the 2010 U.S. Census.

Located off U.S. Highway 441, McIntosh is less than 20 miles south of Gainesville.  Not that you would get lost, but it is easy to find your way around town. Avenues are named A – J, and streets are numbered 1st – 12th.  Those streets and avenues are lined with towering oak trees with branches that seem to be reaching out and inviting you to take “a step back in time.”

This quaint community is home to more than 60 structures that qualify as historic buildings.  According to the National Register of Historic Places, the buildings include packing houses, churches, houses and the train depot.

One of the numerous churches in McIntosh | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

McIntosh History

Its history dates back to 1849 when land that included McIntosh was purchased at a government auction held in Micanopy. Development took off after the Florida Southern Railroad was built in 1881.  The route covered 81 miles from Palatka to Gainesville and Ocala and, when the train depot was built around 1895, it became the hub of citrus and vegetable shipping in the area.

McIntosh hasn’t changed in more than 80 years.  After the last train passed through in 1974, a local group known as The Friends of McIntosh purchased the depot and restored it.  The depot now houses a museum of railroad memorabilia. From the ticket counter to the baggage area, visitors can take that step back in time and experience a slice of life of old Florida railroad history.

McIntosh Train Depot | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

We visited for the sole purpose of attending the McIntosh 1890s Festival, sponsored by the “Friends” every October.   The group works to “preserve and enhance the natural and historic beauty of McIntosh,” and  sponsors the festival to assist in those efforts.  Live music, craft vendors and food lined the streets for this one day event which drew more than 35,000 people from around the state. (The first festival in 1974 drew 4,000 visitors.) Money from the event is used to fund a variety of projects, including scholarships, park infrastructure, funds to the local school and assistance for other community needs.

McIntosh 1890s Festival | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

A trip to McIntosh is the perfect way to spend a Saturday, whether you’re attending the October festival or just looking for a relaxing day.  Take a detour off the Interstate and enjoy more of the real Florida.

“You can’t travel the back roads very long without discovering a multitude of gentle people doing good for others with no expectation of gain or recognition. The everyday kindness of the back roads more than makes up for the acts of greed in the headlines. Some people out there spend their whole lives selflessly.”   Charles Kuralt, Journalist

Blue Spring State Park

Away from the crowded beaches and major theme parks that attract millions of visitors from around the globe, is the natural Florida. Places where nature is left intact and is preserved.  Places where you can witness the beauty of the “old” Florida.  The Springs.  And there are a lot of them.  In fact, geologists have estimated there to be more than 900 springs in the state, including Blue Spring State Park.

Blue Spring State Park in Orange City is home to the largest spring on the St. John’s River.  With more than 2,600 acres, the park offers something for just about any nature lover. Or manatee lover.

Blue Spring State Park

Manatee Season

Blue Spring is a designated manatee refuge and is the winter home to hundreds of West Indies manatees. Manatee season here runs from mid-November through March and is one of the biggest draws to the park.  The water is a constant 72 degrees, so when the mercury drops, the manatees find their way into the spring run and the spring itself.  On a cold winter morning, with steam rising from the spring, manatees can be easily spotted.  Manatee watchers count them daily and record  their numbers. Since guests are  not allowed to get into the water, several lookouts are strategically located and allow you to stand above the spring to view these gentle giants.

On the day of our visit, with temperatures of 35 degrees and wind chills much colder, 270 manatees were counted.  The following day, that number jumped to 377.


Historical Site

The park is also an historical site. The Thursby House, a two-story frame structure, was built in 1873, at the height of the steamboat era, by Louis Thursby.  It was the hub of activity along the St. John’s River and hosted steamboat passengers as they traveled up and down the river.

Other Amenities

For water lovers, there is canoeing, kayaking, boating, fishing, swimming, snorkeling and certified scuba diving (with a partner).  Just be advised, no water activities are allowed in the spring or the spring run during manatee season.

For campers, there are six cabins, each with two bedrooms, and 51 campsites.  For those just wanting to get away for a day and enjoy a nice picnic in the park, there are plenty pavilions to help you do just that.

Make sure also you take the boardwalk (1/3 of a mile) through the hammock to the spring.

Orange City is located on Highway 17 between DeBary and DeLand.  The park is four miles off 17 on West French Avenue.  The gates open at 8:00 a.m., but will close temporarily when the parking lot is full.  Admission to the park is $6.00 per car.

Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings Historic State Park

“I do not understand how anyone can live without some small place of enchantment to turn to.”                          Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, Cross Creek

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Front of Marjorie Kinnan Rawlling house

Two hours away from the hustle and bustle of Orlando city life, lays that “small place of enchantment.”  The Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings Historic State Park sits between Orange Lake and Lochloosa Lake in Hawthorne, Florida about 19 miles southeast of Gainesville.  Nestled along Cross Creek, it was the homestead of Rawlings, the Pulitzer prize-winning author of The Yearling and author of many other books depicting cracker life.

A small county road leads into the park.  The unpaved parking lot sits off to the side, where you are directed to place your $3.00 park admission into the provided envelope and insert into a small wooden box.  From there, you are free to wander the grounds of the Rawlings homestead, a 72-acre home site featuring nature trails, citrus trees, a barn, garden, tenant house and the main farmhouse.  Not all of the buildings are the originals, but rather true-to-life replicas.

On the morning of our visit, we were the first ones to arrive and the only ones on the first guided tour of the morning.  A gray bearded park ranger, dressed in denim overalls, a plaid shirt and hat provided a very in-depth history of the grounds.  We began at the barn for an introduction to the history of the park before moving to the house itself.  Stepping inside the old cracker house was like stepping back in time.  Through the arrangement of the furnishings and the tales of the old homestead, it was easy to envision Rawlings living at Cross Creek.  A typewriter, pack of cigarettes, and other personal items sat on a handmade table on the screened-in front porch – a favorite place for Rawlings to sit and work.  If you let your mind wander, you can almost hear the clackety-clack of the old typewriter as she worked on her stories….

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“Who owns Cross Creek? The red-birds, I think, more than I, for they will have their nests even in the face of delinquent mortgages.. It seems to me that the earth may be borrowed, but not bought.  It may be used, but not owned.  It gives itself in response to love and tending, offers its sesonal flowering and fruiting.  But we are tenants and not possessors, lovers, and not masters.  Cross Creek belongs to the wind and the rain, to the sun and the seasons, to the cosmic secrecy of seed, and beyond all, to time…”

 ~from Cross Creek

The guided tour through the house lasted about an hour.  With each new room came new insight into the life of Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings. If you have read any of her books, it is easy to connect to many of the sights of the homestead. If you haven’t, or if it’s been awhile since you have, pick up The Yearling or Cross Creek, read them, then head on over to the park. Some of the scenes in those books come alive inside the walls of this old house.

There are too many stories to tell about the house and the life of its famous occupant.  It is a piece of history you need to experience for yourself.  There is a $3.00 per person charge at the end, but if you’re a Florida history buff or an avid reader, it’s worth it.

The park is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. October through July (closed August and September).  The house tours are offered Thursday through Sunday.

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Find out more at: https://www.floridastateparks.org/park/Marjorie-Kinnan-Rawlings