For more than 40 years, the Gulf Coast in Charlotte County has been my vacation go-to spot. Pristine beaches. Clear water. Amazing sunsets. From my favorite beach on Manasota Key, I can easily travel to other towns offering old Florida charm, whether it’s with comparable views or other amenities. During my recent vacation, I visited Boca Grande, also known as Tarpon Capital of the World – but it is much more than that.
Boca Grande Beginnings – Phosphate and Fishing
Like many Florida towns, the first inhabitants of Boca Grande were the Calusa Indians, a hunting and fishing tribe, who lived on the island from about 900 A.D. to the mid-1700s, when they all but disappeared due to European diseases, slavery and warfare.
Situated on Gasparilla Island, about 100 miles south of Tampa, Boca Grande Pass is one of the deepest natural inlets in Florida. Its location between Charlotte Harbor and the Gulf of Mexico contributed to its early beginnings in phosphate and, to this day, fishing. Tarpon congregate at the Pass because of the depth, with estimates of as many as 10,000 of the fish in the Pass at a time, weighing anywhere from 50 to 200 pounds.
Besides fishing, the discovery of phosphate turned Boca Grande into a deep-water port. In the late 1800s, phosphate was found along the banks of the Peace River, which enters Charlotte Harbor about 20 miles away. The mineral was placed on barges and taken to Port Boca Grande, where it was placed on ships for worldwide distribution. A wooden cleat the ships once tied to on the docks is on display at the lighthouse museum. Remnants of the docks can still be seen offshore.
In an effort to provide a more efficient way of getting the phosphate from the river to the ships, a railroad was built and carried phosphate and supplies from 1907 to 1979. In fact, in 1969, Port Boca Grande ranked as the fourth busiest port in Florida.
The railroad also opened the area for wealthy individuals from the north to visit the island. Over the years, visitors to this piece of paradise have included names like Vanderbilt and DuPont.
The end of the railroad came in 1979 after years of dwindling port traffic. Phosphate companies had switched to ports in Tampa and Manatee County and the industry in Boca Grande came to an end. Today, along what used to be the original railroad right-of-way is a seven-mile bike path.
Gasparilla Island State Park
At the southern tip of Gasparilla Island is the Gasparilla Island State Park. Getting into the park will cost you $3.00 per car, but it’s a small price to pay for the beauty and peace of the beach. Pristine waters, a wide swath of white sand, and views of pelicans, manatees and fish jumping provide a true Florida experience.
Sea Oats, protected by law, aid in the prevention of beach erosion
Pelicans at rest
Manatee swimming offshore
Port Boca Grande Lighthouse and Museum
The Port Boca Grande Lighthouse, the centerpiece of the park, is the oldest structure on the island, guiding mariners since 1890. The lighthouse is a one-story structure with a tower protruding from the top of the roof. A second, nearly identical building sits next to the lighthouse and once served as the living quarters for the assistant keeper. The lighthouse was donated by the Federal Government to Lee County in 1972, then placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. The lighthouse, fully restored in 1985-86, is visible up to 12 miles away when lit. A museum and gift shop make up the interior of the lighthouse, but make sure to check out the hours before you go as they vary with the seasons.
Port Boca Grande Lighthouse and Assistant Keeper’s Living Quarters
Gasparilla Island Lighthouse
Besides the lighthouse at the Park, there is a second lighthouse on the island, the Gasparilla Island Lighthouse. This lighthouse was built in Lewes, Delaware in 1888 and was moved and reconstructed in its present location in 1927. It was first lit in 1932 and flashed every six seconds during evening hours. Like the Boca Grande Lighthouse, it played a critical role in guiding phosphate ships into port. After decades of decline, the lighthouse was restored in 2018 and opened for climbs. The structure is 105 feet tall, with 134 steps up a black metal spiral staircase. It’s said to offer the best view in town, and when climbs start again in October, you can bet we will be there to make the climb and see for ourselves.
Taken during a visit to the island in 2015, prior to restoration
Post restoration
Other Things to See in Boca Grande
While a visit to the park, the beach and the lighthouses is enough to fill a day, there are other things to see and do while in Boca Grande. The Gasparilla Inn is a cornerstone of the community. Built in 1912, it provided lodging for wealthy northerners coming to Florida during the time when the state became a travel and vacation destination. Over the years, guests have included Henry Ford, Thomas Edison, and President George H.W. Bush. The Inn was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places on March 18, 2008. Even if you don’t stay there, you can visit and view the grand splendor of the hotel and its property.
A leisurely drive through town reveals a quaint shopping district. In what was at one time the railroad depot, there are now a number of shops, offices and The Loose Caboose Restaurant. Other historic buildings, including churches, also add to the charm of this island.
St. Andrews Episcopal Church
First Baptist Church of Boca Grande
Getting to Boca Grande
There are numerous ways to get to the island, depending on where you begin. Once you actually get to the entrance to the island, there is a $6.00 charge per car to get onto the island.
While Boca Grande shares some of the same characteristics of other Florida coastal towns, it is quieter, more laid back, and less crowded. Spend a day or spend a week, Boca Grande is one of those locations that offers a true Florida experience. Sun, sand, surf, or shops – there’s something for about everyone.
