Floridiana Magazine

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Traveling the Back Roads of North Central Florida

Growing up in a small Florida town, going from Point A to Point B always required traveling back roads.  I don’t think I ever really appreciated those drives until I moved to the city and had to drive on interstates or four-lane roads, all the while navigating through traffic.  Now, I look for those back roads.  I look for the small towns and the old buildings.  I look for those “unique” features that define the communities.  I look for Old Florida.

Lloyd, Florida

Lloyd is one of those places I probably would not have known about had it not been for this adventure to “celebrate all things Florida.”  Named after Walter Lloyd, a blacksmith from New York, it is located about a mile south of Interstate 10 at Exit 217 near Tallahassee.  It is also the birthplace of Mary Edwards Bryan (1846-1913), a writer of more than 20 novels, including Manch (1880) and Wild Work (1881).

The history of this little town can be tied to the railroad industry, which lasted until the 1930s.  As home to the oldest brick railroad station in Florida, Lloyd is a place for Florida history buffs to visit.  The Lloyd Railroad Depot was built in 1858 and is also one of only three surviving railroad depots from the Civil War in Florida.  (The other two are in Tallahassee and Gainesville.)  The depot once served as a hub for transportation and trade and was used by Confederate soldiers for military purposes during the war.

You can only imagine this little depot in its heyday and the stories that unfolded on the station’s platform.

The old brick building has stood up against the measure of time and is now used as the town’s post office.  You can find it at the intersection of Highways 59 and 158.

McAlpin, Florida

After leaving Lloyd, we continued our back roads journey, weaving our way around to U.S. Highway 129, stopping just south of Live Oak in the unincorporated town of McAlpin.

McAlpin, settled in 1882, was named for Daniel M. McAlpin, who had been the owner of the Bulletin (forerunner to the Suwannee Democrat), station master at the railroad, tax assessor, and representative to the Florida legislature (1875).

I must admit, though, what caught my eye the numerous times driving through McAlpin, was the old Speed gas station sign. Weathered and faded, it stands next to an old abandoned store, reminiscent of a part of “old Florida” where family-owned stores and filling stations were part of the booming landscape of the time.

A great place to read up on the history of McAlpin is the group’s Facebook page, McAlpin Florida History.

O’Brien, Florida

About seven miles south of McAlpin on 129 is the small town of O’Brien.  Established in 1880 as Obrine, its name changed to Obrine Station and finally O’Brien.  Upon driving into town, one of the first things to see is a brightly colored rooster perched atop the O’Brien Feed Depot and Hardware Store.

The charm and history don’t stop there.  Just a street to the west of 129 off County Road 349 is a row of old storefronts, one of which is still in use, the Village Emporium.  The shop wasn’t open when we passed through, but it’s definitely on the list of places to revisit as it is said to have its own history. Several other vacant buildings line the small dirt road.

Just past the row of old stores sits another old gem, an old wooden structure with boarded up windows and a tree that has become a part of the structure itself.

Back across 129 going west on CR 349, is another of those back roads you must take the time to enjoy.  It’s a curvy little road that holds a pleasant surprise – if you look for it.  Not easily visible from the road, back among the pine trees, is an old wood-frame house.  Its windows seem to be peering out from between the rows of trees as if they are eyes looking out from the past trying to get a glimpse into the future.

There are plenty of other small towns in North Central Florida to explore, each with their own unique features.  Although each one has its own history to tell, sometimes it’s the little oddities or the hidden treasures among the trees that make it unique.  Dare to venture off the well-traveled highways onto the county roads that lead you straight into Florida history at its finest.

FM Notes:  Here are a few other old towns you might want to read about:

DeLand

Monticello

Lake Placid

Micanopy

Wood and Swink General Store in Evinston

McIntosh

Paddlewheelers and the St. Johns River

If you’ve ever driven over the St. Johns River Bridge on Interstate 4 in Sanford, chances are you have caught a glimpse of the Barbara-Lee, a red and white sternwheeler that has set its course to revive the tradition of the ships that once travelled up and down the river.

The Barbara-Lee

History on the River

The St. Johns has been a major waterway for more than 500 years, and lays claim to an abundance of Florida history. It was travelled by the Europeans, the Spanish, and the French, whether it was for exploration or to escape religious persecution. It was used to document the plants and animals living along the river.  After originally travelling the St. Johns with his father in 1765, botanist William Bartram returned to the river in 1774 to take a closer look at life along the St. Johns.  Skip ahead to the 1830s, when the steamboat George Washington became the first to regularly sail the river.  Then, during the Civil War, the river was ruled by the Union Navy. After the war, the river became a tourist destination as well as a freight route. In the late 1800s, 150 steamships operated on the St. Johns River, and according to the St. Johns Rivership website, that was “more than any river south of the Hudson River in New York,” carrying everything from passengers to produce and citrus fruit.

The Barbara-Lee

The Barbara-Lee was built in 1986 and carries on the tradition of sternwheelers that have been sailing along the river for hundreds of years.  She had her inaugural cruise in 2012 and is the only authentic sternwheeler you will see on the St. Johns River.  The 105 foot boat provides a smooth, leisurely trip, allowing riders the opportunity to see the “real” Florida.

We boarded Barbara-Lee for a Saturday dinner cruise and were treated to three hours of a fun Florida experience, from a delicious dinner inside overlooking the massive wooden paddle wheel, to a beautiful sunset from the Captain’s Deck.

Set up for dinner

A Florida sunset on the St. Johns River

The air was cool and the only sound that could be heard was the splashing of the water as the paddle wheel turned. While the evening cruise provided magnificent views of the stars and the lights along the shore in Sanford, you can only imagine what you would see during a daytime cruise.

Looking back at Sanford

Operated by St. Johns Rivership Co., Barbara-Lee runs daily lunch cruises from Wednesday through Sunday, along with dinner cruises on Saturday.  There are five decks on the boat, ample room to spread out to enjoy the views and the cruise. Guests are advised to make reservations ahead of time.

A great place to relax

If you’re looking for a relaxing way to explore Florida, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, it just may be time to chart your course with the Barbara-Lee and enjoy a leisurely tour of one of the state’s historic rivers.

Cruising the St. Johns River

 

Presidents Hall of Fame

Whether you live in Florida or are just one of our many guests, you have to admit there are some “attractions” that are a little out of the ordinary.  They may not be about “old Florida,” but they are part of our history.  These roadside attractions can be found throughout the state.  You’ve probably even passed them several times and didn’t stop.  Or, maybe your curiosity got the better of you, and you pulled over for a look.

One such location sits in the shadows of The Citrus Tower in Clermont – the Presidents Hall of Fame.

If you like U.S. history, this is definitely a place for you.  From the replica of the Lincoln Memorial statue to the front door of this White House look-alike, the Presidents Hall of Fame offers everything presidential and more.

Imagine sitting at a table in The State Dining Room – the site for many dinners with foreign dignitaries through the years.  Would you know which glass to use when?  Or which fork?

Just past the dining table and through the first doorway is an interesting display which shows the White House as it was being built.  It depicts George Washington’s first visit to the “President’s House.”  The enormity of the project is easily seen in the intricate details of the model.

What is a museum of presidents without the presidents themselves?  Wax figures of our 44 past presidents are on display in the main room of the building.  If you know your presidents, you should be able to easily identify them.  Along with the figures are mannequins that represent the dresses worn by the First Ladies.

Perhaps the most impressive display is the replica of the White House itself.  Its location in the same room as the wax figures makes it a little difficult to move around, but it offers a unique perspective of the size of the White House.

 

There are plenty of other artifacts and presidential memorabilia on display, as well.  China patterns of each of the presidents, campaign portraits and outside, a replica of Mount Rushmore.

 

The Hall offers a fascinating glimpse into the lives of our leaders, but can be a little overwhelming.  There is a lot of presidential history on display, so make plans to take your time to absorb it all.  There is a $15 admission fee, but that includes a year pass if you choose to take it.

The Presidents Hall of Fame is open Monday through Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. and on Sundays from noon until 4:00 p.m.

The Citrus Tower

Back before U.S. Highway 27 was flooded with traffic lights and vehicles, it provided a leisurely, picturesque drive through the heart of Florida’s citrus industry.  The stretch of road from Interstate 4 to Clermont was lined with orange groves as far as the eye could see.  One of the state’s most well-known structures stood tall, in the middle of it all, offering magnificent views of the surrounding area.

Back of post card says: Orange groves are seen for miles in every direction from the highest point in the state – the top of the Florida Citrus Tower.

 

Post card dated March 3, 1963. Handwritten note: “Greetings from Clermont, Florida.”

The Citrus Tower, which opened in Clermont in 1956, was built to provide visitors a 360 degree view of the acres and acres of orange trees, the rolling hills and the lakes that dotted the landscape.  Made of five million pounds of concrete and another 149,000 pounds of steel, the Tower was built to withstand winds of more than 190 miles per hour.

As a college student, I would drive Highway 27 from my home in Hardee County to school in Tallahassee, and pass by the groves and the Tower each time.  Not once did I stop to take a trip to the top of the Tower and see the area from a different perspective.  But now, the Citrus Tower beckoned – and I obliged.

On this bright Florida day, the Tower stands in stark contrast against the bright blue sky.  The ground floor houses the history of the Citrus Tower.  Photos and newspapers tell the story of this “Castle in the Air,” along with some of the original mechanics.  Lilly’s Citrus Tower Gift Shop is housed inside the main doors as well, and is filled with all things Florida.  After stopping at the counter and paying the $6.00 admission fee, we step into the elevator and take the ride to the enclosed observation deck.

Strategically placed signs indicate which direction you are looking and the distance from the Tower to surrounding locations.  Framed photos provide a glimpse into Florida’s citrus heyday – while allowing you to look out at the new landscape, dotted with housing developments, shopping centers and other businesses.

Lake Apopka is one of the many lakes that can be seen from this vantage point.  Its size is stunning enough.  Orlando’s skyline is also visible and with the help of binoculars, you can see the Orlando Eye attraction.  To the west there are views of more lakes and more development.  You can see portions of Lake, Orange, Polk and Sumter counties, and on a clear day, even parts of Pasco, Osceola, Seminole and Hernando counties are in view. Even though the landscape has changed and the groves have given way to development, the views from the Tower are still magnificent.  The few stray orange trees that can be seen serve as reminders to what was once a thriving industry.

Lake Apopka in the background.

 

The Citrus Tower is open Monday through Saturday from 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. and is closed on Sundays, Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Interesting fact:  According to a display at the Citrus Tower, on February 19, 1953 a traffic count by the State of Florida Highway Department showed 3,500 cars passed by this part of Highway 27.  That was an average of one car every 24 seconds!