Floridiana Magazine

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Things to See and Do in Apalachicola

There are some places you can visit over and over again and not see everything there is to see or do everything there is to do.  Those same places change over time and, from one visit to the next, may not offer the same “landmarks” you made it a point to see.  One such town is Apalachicola, on Florida’s Forgotten Coast.  As its name translates, it is the “land of the friendly people.”

Brief History of Apalachicola

Even though Apalachicola wasn’t settled until the 1820s, its history goes back much further – Native Americans thousands of years ago, along with European influence by the Spanish and English.  Florida was ceded to United States in 1821.  Originally named Cottonton, then incorporated as West Point, it was renamed Apalachicola in 1831.

As you drive over the bridge on US 98 heading west, the history of Apalachicola is easy to understand.  Its location along the Apalachicola River where it meets Apalachicola Bay, set this town up as a port for shipping – making it at one time the third largest cotton shipping port on the Gulf of Mexico.  Besides cotton, Apalachicola also thrived in the sponge and timber industries.  The sponge trade, beginning in the 1870s, became the third largest in the state.  One of the original sponge warehouses, The Sponge Exchange, remains in downtown Apalachicola.

Another major industry in Apalachicola, and one that remains today, is the seafood industry. Apalachicola is known throughout the United States for its oysters.

Historic Homes in Apalachicola

A drive through the historic district of Apalachicola is like a drive back in time. There are more than 900 historic homes, buildings and other sites within the district to see, ten of them designated as Florida Heritage Landmarks. A couple you don’t want to miss include the Dr. Alvan W. Chapman House, the Hanserd-Fry House, and perhaps the most famous in Apalachicola, the Orman House.

Dr. Alvan W. Chapman House – This house was built in 1847 for Dr. Chapman who, besides being a physician, was also a botanist.  He is known for his research and writings on the flora of the South.  Chapman was very active in Apalachicola, having served as county judge, mayor and collector of customs.

Hanserd-Fry House –  Located on 5th Street, the Hanserd-Fry House was built around 1845 and served as the residence of several individuals.  The first-known owner was Joseph Hanserd who lived there as early as 1866, followed by Kate Ayers in 1872, with Captain Weber Fry buying it in 1880.  Fry was a riverboat captain on the Apalachicola River. The house served as the Apalachicola Museum of Art from 2006 – 2016 and now is the office and visitor center for the St. Vincent National Wildlife Refuge.

The Orman House – The Orman House is a Florida State Park and sits on a bluff overlooking the Apalachicola River. It is a must see on a visit to Apalachicola.  The house was built in 1838 by Thomas Orman, a cotton merchant and businessman credited with being a key to the success of the town.

Touring this stately home takes you back to the 1800s.  As you walk through the house, you get a glimpse of the Orman family lifestyle.  The house is filled with old family photographs, period fashion, ornate fixtures, a formal dining room, a child’s room and so much more.

Outside you can catch a glimpse of an old barn, one of the original servants’ houses, and take a tour of the gardens.

Guided tours are available Thursday through Monday for a $2.00 charge.  It is closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.

Other Things to See and Do in Apalachicola

Three Soldiers Detail Statue

In front of the Gorman House sits Veterans Memorial Park, with the Three Soldiers Detail Statue as its centerpiece.  The statue was dedicated in 2008 as a tribute to Vietnam Veterans from the south. Cast from the original molds of the statue located at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this statue is lifelike and humbling.

John Gorrie Museum State Park

Also known as the Ice Box Museum, this museum pays tribute to John Gorrie, a physician who moved to Apalachicola in the early 1830s. Gorrie was concerned for his yellow fever patients and wanted to find a way to cool their rooms.  As a result, he invented a mechanical device that produced ice, and received the first U.S. Patent for mechanical refrigeration in 1851.

Apalachicola Riverfront Park  

Riverfront Park overlooks the Apalachicola River and offers up a little more of the town’s history.  Read up on the sponge industry, watch the fishing boats go by or just enjoy sitting by the fountain.  The park also serves as the backdrop for many of the local events.

Fun Shops

There are always those stores in town you don’t want to miss.  In Apalachicola, it is The Tin Shed.  If you’re looking for something nautical, this is the place.  Don’t forget to stop by the buoy wall – it’s a popular place for photos.  (Note: Since this post was written originally, The Tin Shed has moved locations and the buoy wall is no longer there.)

Food and Drinks

With seafood as its main industry, Apalachicola serves up some great food in its many restaurants. One of our favorites is the Up the Creek Raw Bar.  Whether you sit inside or choose one of the tables outside, the food and the views are good.

While you’re in Apalachicola, don’t forget to stop by the Olde Time Soda Fountain.  It’s been dishing up these delicious treats since 1905.  Take your seat at the counter and order from a variety of flavors or shakes.  A great place to take the kids, but a word of warning, there are a lot of fun items in the gift shop that they’ll want to take home!

For the adults, make a stop by Oyster City Brewing Company on Avenue D.  If you’re looking for a cold beer brewed right here in Apalachicola, make plans to stop by.

Gone but Not Forgotten – The Venezellos

The few times I have visited Apalachicola always involved a stop in front of the Venezellos at the corner of Avenue E and Water Street.  The boat was built in 1915 in Apalachicola by Demo George (Demosthenes George Margomenos).  It always provided a great subject for photographs, even in its weathered state.  With each visit, the boat showed a little more wear.  A few more boards were rotten, the weeds grew taller.  Then, in October 2017, the boat was taken apart and removed.  A Facebook page has been set up by Demo George’s family to remember the boat through photos.

Fun Fact

Bing Crosby recorded the song “Apalachicola, F-L-A” in 1947 with the Andrews Sisters after meeting professional baseball player and Apalachicola native Jimmy Bloodworth.  Crosby was partial owner of the Pittsburgh Pirates and met Bloodworth in 1946, when he played for the Pirates.  When asked where he was from, Bloodworth said, “Apalachicola, F-L-A!”  The song was used in the move “The Road to Rio” starring Bing Crosby and Bob Hope.

For your listening enjoyment, Bing Crosby singing Apalachicola, F-L-A.

There are so many things to see and do in Apalachicola, one trip isn’t enough.  Two trips probably aren’t enough either.  History, food, shopping and so much more await the Florida explorer in all of us.

Photo Gallery from Apalachicola

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Punta Gorda: Murals and More in This Small Florida Town

Punta Gorda – It’s Happening on the Harbor – a motto that doesn’t disappoint.  Having grown up only an hour away I was surprised at all this city offered.  Situated along the shores where the Peace River and Charlotte Harbor meet, Punta Gorda provides an eclectic mix of things to see and do: a relaxing waterfront, historic buildings, educational mural walk and a variety of shops and restaurants.

A Brief History of Punta Gorda

The name Punta Gorda was given to the area by Spanish fishermen from Cuba in the early 1800s. It changed to Trabue after Col. Isaac Trabue, from Kentucky, bought the land sight unseen in the early 1880s and had it platted as Trabue.

The name did not stick, however, and in 1887, a group of individuals, including the original surveyor, signed a notice of intent to incorporate Trabue into Punta Gorda.  Although the town changed names, the impact Trabue had on its development did not.  Trabue is credited with bringing the Florida Southern Railroad to town and to stimulating early growth.

The Murals of Punta Gorda

There is much to be read about the history of Punta Gorda, but there is another fun way to learn about this city – through its murals.  The Punta Gorda Historic Mural Society was created in 1994 and is a part of the Florida Mural Trail.  Currently, there are 29 murals already completed, with the 30th in the works.  Print out a guide or pick one up at the Charlotte County Chamber of Commerce and enjoy a day enjoying history through art.

The first stop on the trail, End of the Line, located on the Copperfish Books building, plays homage to town founder Isaac Trabue and railroad pioneer Henry Plant.  Both men can be seen on one of two murals at this location, along with products that were once shipped from the area.  A second mural on the south side of the building features steam locomotive Number 11 as it is pulling into town.

Watch the short clip of the mural here. 

From the city’s founding to Punta Gorda’s first fire station, each of the murals has its own story to tell. A tour of the murals reveals the history of banking, life along the Harbor, the natural beauty of the area, as well as individuals who have left lasting impressions on this city.

Fishing Tales
First City Council
Building a Community
Harbor Life, Then and Now
Classics of the Past
Cattle Drive Down Marion Avenue
Local Black History
Conquistadors
The Churches of Sacred Heart
Hotel Punta Gorda and Hotel Charlotte Harbor
Our First Firehouse

Walk or bike, the murals are a sight to behold and linking to the past is easy through the interactive tour.  Make sure to have a QR code reader on your smartphone to scan the bar codes found next to the plaques for each of the murals. When scanned, you are taken to the Mural Society’s website for an instant description of what you are seeing.

Mural Society Tours and Classes

Although we were able to walk or drive to most of the murals, the Mural Society offers private tours for small groups of 10 – 20 participants.  They also offer “History of Punta Gorda in its Murals” classes where you can learn about the city’s history through a look at each of the murals, without even leaving your seat.  The classes last about two and a half hours and are taught throughout the year, but registration is required.  Call (941) 505-0130 for more information on the upcoming classes and to reserve your seat.

Other Things to See and Do in Punta Gorda

Besides the murals, there are plenty of other things to see and do in Punta Gorda. A walk along the waterfront is definitely a must.  It is part of the city’s Harborwalk, a stretch of a about two and a half  miles along Charlotte Harbor that takes you through Laishley Park and Gilchrist Park.

At Laishley Park you get a spectacular view of the Harbor bridges, not to mention a chance to indulge in ice cream at Harborwalk Scoops & Bites – which bills itself as “Ice Cream with a View.”

Another place to visit is Fisherman’s Village, a favorite spot for locals and visitors alike. Stop in one of the shops at the village, have a bite to eat or quench your thirst at one of the restaurants, take a stroll by the marina, or stop to have your picture taken at one of the ready-made photo backdrops.

Other sites of interest:

 “Calostimucu” the Whispering Giant – a carving by Peter “Wolf” Toth, depicting the first people to inhabit the area. Dedicated in 2006, this towering piece of art also contains a time capsule in its base. The carving is located next to the Charlotte County Chamber of Commerce and Punta Gorda Historical Society which are located in the A.C. Freeman House.

Historic Downtown: Walking through historic downtown, it is easy to come across historic plaques and markers about important people and places.  These signs provide more insight into the early history of Punta Gorda.

Punta Gorda Railroad Depot and Antique Mall: The railroad played an integral role in the history of Punta Gorda beginning in the late 1880s. Now on the National Register of Historic Places, the depot was built in 1928 and was the southernmost train station at the time in the United States and was used mainly for shipping fish to markets to the north, even though it also carried passengers. After the depot closed, it was bought and donated to Old Punta Gorda, Inc., then restored and reopened as a museum and antique mall.  Although the building bears the original signs for the segregated waiting rooms, the museum has incorporated those into its exhibits showcasing early pioneers.

Punta Gorda has turned itself into a destination you don’t want to miss.  Its history has been preserved, and its present and future have been embraced.  Spend a day. Spend a weekend. For a city that bills itself as “Happening on the Harbor” Punta Gorda definitely delivers.

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Town of Murals: Lake Placid, Florida

 

Places to See in Palatka

Once known as the “Gem of the St. Johns,” Palatka is located in northeast Florida, east of Gainesville and south of Jacksonville.  Even though I lived and worked in Gainesville for several years, I never experienced Palatka as a visitor.  But recently I had a chance to visit twice – and each time saw something different than before.  Palatka is full of history, culture and fun.

The name Palatka comes from the Timucuan Indian word Pilotakata which means “crossing.”  Palatka was once a prosperous town with world-class hotels and was known for its timber and citrus, as well as its natural beauty.  But in 1884 a fire in downtown destroyed many of the town’s fine hotels. Then in 1894 and 1895, freezes devastated the citrus industry.  What was once a booming town, saw a sharp decline in visitors and industry.

Palatka’s Historic District

Palatka is home to not one, but two historic districts, the North Historic District and the South Historic District.  The North District is composed of 350 acres and 76 buildings with boundaries including the St. Johns River, Bronson Street, North First, North Fifth and Main Street.  The South District is bounded by the St. Johns River, Oak, South 9th, and Morris Streets.

St. Marks Episcopal Church (circa 1846), Palatka

One of the more famous houses in the district is the Bronson-Mulholland House, built around 1853 for Isaac Bronson, who proposed the legislation for Florida to become a state. A long and storied history, plus the city’s intent to demolish it after purchasing the property in 1965, have brought the house full circle.  It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1972 and is now open to the public for tours.

Ravine Gardens State Park

When you are done strolling down the brick streets of the historic districts, take a drive out to the Ravine Gardens State Park.  It is one of nine New Deal-era parks in Florida and is also included on the National Register of Historic Places.  It was created in 1933 by the Works Progress Administration and Federal Emergency Relief Administration in an effort to help Palatka recover from the Great Depression.

Today you can walk or drive along the nearly two-mile road around the park and get a glimpse of the two ravines. The ravines are up to 120 feet deep and have steep banks with springs that flow into the St. Johns River. Because the ravines are considered active, there is a chance of them getting wider and deeper.

There is more to the park than just the ravine. A formal garden, an amphitheater and reflecting pool also provide visitors with intriguing views.  The Court of States sits just inside the entrance and displays 48 of the 50 state flags – leaving out Alaska and Hawaii because they were not states when the Court was built.  An obelisk dedicated to President Franklin D. Roosevelt can also be viewed in the Court of States.

A few notes about the park:

  • The best time to see the flowers in bloom is from January to March, during the peak flowering period.
  • The main park drive is open to vehicles beginning at 8:00 in the morning and closes an hour before sunset.
  • There is a minimal entrance fee to the park. If the ranger station isn’t staffed, make sure to use the honor box to pay.
  • The park is open 365 days a year, including all holidays.

City of Murals

To learn even more about the history of Palatka, print out a map and tour the city’s murals.  Part of the Florida Mural Trail, the Conlee-Snyder Murals are larger than life renderings of the history, culture and natural riches of Palatka and Putnam County.  Mural efforts began in 1998 and now include more than 20 artistic representations, including the Battle at Horse Landing, Putnam County Wildflowers, Senator B.C. Pearce Agricultural Mural and Cattle Drive to Payne’s Prairie. The mural To God be the Glory depicts the story of Billy Graham, from his baptism in Putnam County to his first pulpit at the Peniel Baptist Church.

Battle at Horse Landing

Putnam County Wildflowers

Senator B.C. Pearce Agricultural Mural

Cattle Drive to Payne’s Prairie

To God be the Glory

There are also additional murals painted by local students and artists not sponsored by the Mural Committee.

Riverside

The St. Johns River has played a big role in Palatka’s history with steamboats plying areas south of Palatka.  In its heyday, Palatka was known as the gateway to the interior of Florida.  The river is still one of the most picturesque locations in Palatka today.  A clock tower stands tall at the edge of the riverside park.  Placards provide information about the river or the history of the Doughboys. It is worth a stop to walk out onto the docks and view the boats anchored offshore or watch the personal watercraft riding the river.

But from August through October, the docks take on a whole new look.  This part of the St. Johns River is a popular spot for shrimpers, all vying for that perfect spot to cast their nets.  Nets are rolled and prepped, then thrown with precision into the water, some nets creating perfect circles as they hit the surface.  They are then hauled back in to check for shrimp, then rolled and cast all over again.

Eateries and Places to Drink in Palatka

No trip is complete to a Florida town or city without looking for some of the area’s favorite foods.  Palatka lays claim to the state’s oldest diner – Angel’s.  Set up in an old train dining car, Angel’s has been serving its customers since 1932 – and it still offers curb service.

Angel’s is a favorite of regulars and visitors alike. Cooks are busy keeping up with the orders.  Menu highlights include the Puscalow – a chocolate frosty drink that tastes a lot like a Yoohoo, and the Black Bottom – scrambled eggs, bacon and ground beef on a bun.

Puscalow

Black Bottom

While you’re in Palatka, head on over to Uncork & Unwind on South 2nd Street for a drink and a little relaxation.  This modern establishment offers a wide variety of craft beer and wine. In fact, there are about four pages of drinks to choose from.  Not sure what to order? The owner/bartender is extremely knowledgeable and can recommend the perfect drink.  This hidden gem is a great place to end the day!

If you plan a trip to Palatka, plan for a whole day to see all the sights – from the historic districts to the riverfront to Ravine Gardens. Get out and learn a little more about another of Florida’s old towns.

The Sponge Docks at Tarpon Springs

What I have found in my quest to “celebrate all things Florida” is it is sometimes impossible to see all there is to see or do all there is to do in a one-day excursion.  If you have ever been to Tarpon Springs, you know what I mean.  We made it to the docks, but not to the historic downtown area.  Even at the docks we didn’t have time to get the full experience.

Brief History of Tarpon Springs

Tarpon Springs is known as the “Sponge Capital of the World.”  Sponge boats line the docks, their sponges visible to the visitors who walk up and down the waterfront.

Boats line the docks in Tarpon Springs | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Sponges

Sponges are available for purchase

The history of the sponge industry goes back to the late 1800s, with two men receiving credit for the industry in Tarpon Springs: John Cheyney and John Cocoris.  Cheyney began sponging with a technique known as hooking and launched his first boat around 1890.  Cocoris, a Greek hired by Cheyney, was brought in to streamline sponging and introduced the technique of diving in 1905.

Acknowledgement of their contributions to the industry can be found in several places around town.

During the 1920s, sponge diving became the largest industry in Florida, with Tarpon Springs the major hub of the activity.

Sponging has fallen to tourism, but is still profitable and helps support the economy either directly or indirectly through the number of tourists it draws to the area.

Greek Influence in Tarpon Springs

Greek sponge divers were some of the first to descend on Tarpon Springs.  Everywhere you look, whether it’s the buildings or the restaurants, that influence can be seen throughout the city.  Tarpon Springs has the highest percentage of Greek Americans of any city in the United States.  Old buildings bear the name of early divers and residents, while Greek food offers a taste of Greece – from traditional fare to flavorful pastries.

John M. Gonatos, a sponge diver, also owned a curio shop

Delicious Greek pastries

Shops and Restaurants in Tarpon Springs

As a popular tourist spot, shops and restaurants line the streets down by the docks.  The typical souvenirs fill the shelves or in bins outside shop doors, enticing visitors to walk inside.

Street view along the  Tarpon Springs docks

Florida souvenirs

A marketplace-type area is “home” to many stores and serves as anchor to The Sponge Exchange.  The market boasts an open-air feel, although most of the stores are housed inside adjoining buildings.  Street musicians “serenade” shoppers, adding to the festive atmosphere.  And there are plenty of opportunities for photos!

One of the shopping areas

Picture time!

Another photo opportunity also serves as a history lesson. The brightly painted Aegean Isles reveals its initial use as a sponge boat that then as a Navy air-sea rescue boat during World War II.  Once the war was over, it returned to its original purpose for sponging until it was decommissioned in 1982.

History on display

Other Things to Do in Tarpon Springs

There is something for just about everyone in Tarpon Springs. For people of all ages, dolphin cruises offer a seafaring adventure or a sponge diving trip where you hear about the history and witness a sponge harvesting demonstration.

Another fun spot for the kids is the Tarpon Springs Aquarium.  It features shark and ray shows, an eel encounter, a gator feeding show and a snake demo.

Hidden Beaches

A visit to Tarpon Springs should also include two hidden gems.  Not too far from the docks are two beautiful locations to enjoy the Florida sun – beaches that don’t usually show up on the list of the best. The first is Sunset Beach, at the end of Gulf Drive.  The city park offers a great place to swim, picnic and view a breathtaking sunset.  There is also a playground for kids and a boat ramp for those wanting to take to the water for boating or fishing.

Sunset Beach

The other location is Fred Howard Park, a 155-acre Pinellas County Park.  The park includes pavilions, playgrounds, and nature trails and protects many Florida habitats like sea grass beds and mangrove estuaries.  It is also home to some endangered species such as eagles and gopher tortoises.

Fred Howard Park

One of the biggest surprises of the park, if you’ve never been there before, is the mile-long causeway to the Gulf of Mexico.  Along the causeway, sunbathers sit in the Gulf waters or enjoy water-sports.

The Causeway leading to the beach

Water bikes provide hours of fun

At the end, white sandy beaches and a spectacular view of the Gulf of Mexico await you.  Imagine sitting here and watching a golden sun sink into the water.

The beach at Fred Howard Park: a hidden gem

Tarpon Springs is one of those places that everyone should visit at least once.  Plan on getting there early and staying all day to get the full experience. Or, if you can, plan on a weekend trip.  That way you’re sure to get in all there is to offer – or at least most of it.

The Athens of Florida: DeLand

Brief History of DeLand

DeLand’s rich history goes back to when the area was known as Persimmon Hollow and was only accessible by steamboat along the St. John’s River.  Captain John Rich built a log cabin there in 1874, then two years later, in 1876, Henry A. DeLand visited his brother-in-law who lived in Persimmon Hollow.  DeLand liked it so much he purchased a $1,000 plot of land with the idea of developing the area.  He offered settlers purchasing the property a chance to sell it back to him within a two-year period.  DeLand lived up to his word after a freeze destroyed all of their crops and they could no longer stay there.  He bought back all the land.

“Henry’s Vision”

DeLand is also responsible for the city’s nickname “The Athens of Florida.”  Although he was never a full-time resident of the state, he wanted the city to become a place of culture, education and beauty like Athens, Greece.

Stetson University

Stetson University, Florida’s oldest private college, also plays a major role in the city’s history.  Stetson sits on about 160 acres of land in the heart of DeLand.  Founded in 1883 as DeLand University, its name was changed to Stetson University in 1889 in honor of John B. Stetson, a hat manufacturer who, along with Henry DeLand (founder of the city), was one of the founding trustees of the university.

DeLand Hall

Beautiful brick buildings are part of the university’s landscape.  One of those buildings, Elizabeth Hall, was built in 1885 and sits on North Woodland Boulevard.  Elizabeth Hall and other buildings like it are the reasons the university is on the National Register of Historic Places for the state’s “oldest collection of education-related buildings.”

Elizabeth Hall, built 1885

This picturesque campus has been ranked as the 5th best regional university in the South in the 2017 U.S. News and World Report’s guide to America’s Best Colleges.

Stetson Mansion

When planning for this day trip to DeLand, I knew I also wanted to see the Stetson Mansion, but driving up to the entrance, the gate was closed and a sign indicated the start time of the next tour.   Reservations for the tours are required, which means I should have done a little more research! Nevertheless, looking through the gate at this massive mansion, it’s easy to understand why it is Florida’s first luxury estate.

The mansion is referred to as “The House that Hats Built” and served as the winter home for John B. Stetson for 20 years.  Built in 1886, the mansion is filled with intricate carvings, parquet floors and 10,000 panes of antique window glass. It is also one of the first homes in the world with electricity, thanks to the friendship between Stetson and Thomas Edison.  Although it is now a private residence, year-round tours are still offered with special tours taking place during the Christmas holidays.

Athens Theatre

It’s only fitting that the city known as The Athens of Florida is home to its own Athens Theatre.  The theatre is in Historic Downtown DeLand at the end of Indiana Avenue along North Florida Avenue.  The theatre opened its doors in 1922 and was dubbed “Florida’s Handsomest Theatre.”  The theatre has evolved over the years from vaudeville acts to a movie theatre to a dinner theatre.  It closed its doors in the early 1990s but became the focus of the MainStreet DeLand Association which recognized the role it plays in the history of the city.  It is now owned by a non-profit theatre company and produces six Broadway caliber shows per year.  The Athens Theatre Youth Company also uses the facility to educate the youth about the performing arts.

The DeLand Mural Walk

Another must-see in DeLand is the city’s Mural Walk.  With 12 official murals painted on the sides of buildings around town, it is part of the Florida Mural Trail.  Each mural offers its own story about the history of Deland and range from smaller paintings, like “Gibbs Clothing Store”

…to the city’s longest mural at Painter’s Pond Park.  At 100 feet long, it shows what train passengers would see as they were riding through DeLand in the early 1900s.

In addition to the “official” murals, there are several others painted around town that are worth seeing.  The “Wings” painting along Pill Alley is one of those that visitors seek out, perhaps in an effort to earn their own wings.

Shopping and Dining in DeLand

The streets of DeLand are filled with stores, restaurants, and drinking establishments. Music stores offer up vinyl records of some of the old favorites, while antique stores provide treasure hunters plenty of opportunities to plunder.

Three-story antique store. A dream come true!

Hometown breweries like Persimmon Hollow Brewing Company and outdoor spaces like DaVinci Gardens give patrons unique experiences to relax and unwind.

On the outside looking in

Fun during the day, but buzzing at night

Other Things to See in DeLand

If these things aren’t enough to keep a person busy, there are a couple of other opportunities to take in the city of DeLand.  Stop by the old courthouse and gaze up at the amazing architecture, or visit the Chess Park adjacent to the courthouse.  Chess pieces are not provided.

With so much to see and do in DeLand, it’s best to do a little research beforehand.  But it’s definitely a place to go to continue “celebrating all things Florida.”

Monticello, Florida

For years, I have been driving Interstate 10 west to Tallahassee either as a student at Florida State University or the parent of two daughters at FSU. In all of those years, I rarely ventured off the main highway to visit any of the smaller towns. However, now that I have moved to Tallahassee, Monticello is becoming one of my favorite small Florida towns.

First, let me say, the drive into Monticello on U.S. Highway 90 will more than likely be full of color in the coming month, as crepe myrtles lined both sides of the road. That in itself would be worth the drive, but there is much more to this charming town.

Jefferson County Courthouse

Monticello is the county seat of Jefferson County, named after Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States and author of the Declaration of Independence. If you know history, you might know Jefferson’s home in Virginia also bore the name Monticello. The town was named after that home and serves as the hub of the county. The Jefferson County Courthouse sits in the center of town and was built in 1909. The Latin phrase “Suum Cuique”, can be seen above its doors, meaning “to each his own” or “may all get their due.”

Walking and Driving Tour of Monticello

Monticello is known for its historic buildings. If you want to get a glimpse of them, all you have to do is to take a drive off the main highway through town and meander through the side streets.  In all, there are more than 600 buildings in the area that were built before 1920. A walking and driving tour has been established to lead visitors to 26 of those structures.

Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce

Make sure to stop at the Chamber of Commerce on the way in to pick up a brochure showing the route along with a brief history of those buildings.

Tour brochures can be picked up at the Chamber of Commerce

The Avera-Clarke House was built in 1890 by state legislator Thomas L. Clarke.  It sits on the corner of U.S. 90 and Pine Street and now serves as a bed and breakfast. With its red shutters and white picket fence, the building itself seems to say “welcome home.”

Avera-Clarke House in Monticello

Other homes in Monticello represent those typical of the Old South.

Budd-Pafford House (1833)

Monticello Opera House

One of the primary historic structures is The Monticello Opera House, built in 1890 by businessman John H. Perkins, in what is known as the Perkins Block. Sitting across from the courthouse, it still serves as a cultural and arts center for the area.  The second floor of the building houses the theatre itself, which is often said to have nearly perfect acoustics.  Local companies regularly put on musical and theatrical shows, as well as other musical groups. (Check the calendar of events for dates and times.)

Monticello Opera House | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shopping and Other Activities in Monticello

We visited on a Sunday, and other than church activities, the streets of Monticello were relatively empty. The shops were closed, but the town still showed off its charm with antique stores, restaurants and other locally owned businesses.

 

As is the case with small towns, Monticello also lays claim to other activities. The second weekend in May is the Southern Music Rising Festival featuring musicians from all over the country. They set up in the Opera House and on the porches of the houses throughout downtown to entertain visitors with old time music. The town also comes to life during the third weekend in June with the Jefferson County Watermelon Festival.

And if you are into haunted ghost tours, Monticello is known as the “South’s Most Haunted Small Town.” Historic Monticello Ghost Tours are held through September and cemetery scavenger hunts are also offered through reservations.

Monticello is a small town with a big heart and a big history.  This trip definitely taught me a lesson: make it a point to get off the main highways and visit some of the smaller towns in the state. Those towns are where you will experience the “real Florida.”

Town of Murals: Lake Placid, Florida

A sign along Highway 27 at the edge of Lake Placid in Highlands County reads, “Town of Murals.”  Unless you pay attention to the sign or exit on one of the town’s main roads, you might miss what has become a vital part of the town and its history.

Having grown up less than 30 minutes from Lake Placid, I spent many summers at Lake June.  The murals weren’t part of the town then, but it was definitely a place that felt inviting and friendly.  Now that I’ve had a chance to go back and see these murals for myself, I am even more enchanted with this town.


Lake Placid is like any other little town: a farmer’s market, a main street, quaint shops, the locals milling about on a Sunday afternoon. What sets this apart is just what the sign says – murals.  There are nearly 50 of them painted on the sides of buildings around town.  Each one depicts something different about the history of Lake Placid, its culture or some of its prominent citizens.

“Captain” T. W. Webb
Richard Archbold
Early Physicians
Eddie Mae Henderson
Dr. Charles Akes
Dr. Melvil Dewey

This was all the brainchild of Harriet and Bob Porter, themselves depicted on the front of the Chamber of Commerce building.  Harriet says she and her husband got the idea from an impromptu stop in Chemainus, Vancouver Island, British Columbia during a motorcycle trip to Alaska.

“We found a little sign by the side of the road that said, ‘The Little Town that Did.’  We decided to see what they did,” Harriet says, “and we saw 32 beautiful larger than life murals that depicted the history of their town.”

That was the beginning of the Lake Placid Mural Society.

“Town of Murals – How it All Began” featuring Bob and Harriet Porter

The Murals

“Tea at Southwinds” Lake Placid’s first mural by Thomas Freeman in 1993

One of the favorite murals around town is the “Cracker Trail Cattle Drive,” taking up the entire side of the old Winn Dixie on the corner of Highway 27 and Route 621 East. The 175 feet wide mural depicts the importance and magnitude of the cattle industry in Florida, and in Lake Placid in particular.  The cattle are all marked with registered brands belonging to Highlands County cattlemen.  Standing in front of this massive mural, you can almost feel the pounding of their hooves as they are being driven out of town.

“Cracker Trail Cattle Drive” by Keith Goodson

It took about six months to paint the mural 1994 by artist Keith Goodson.  Since that time, it’s been repainted at least three times to maintain its beauty – something that is done with all of the murals around town.  The only thing missing from this mural currently is the sound of the cattle mooing which came to an end when the building was vacated and the electricity turned off.

Another mural in town, “The Lost Bear Cub,” also features sound.  It was painted  in 1997 by Terry Smith on the side of a barber shop on East Interlake Boulevard.  Stop by and listen to the mama bear and her cub.

The Artists

Most of the murals were painted by single artists, although there are some that involved the collaboration of two artists – depending on their skill sets.

Part of “Birding” by Thomas Brooks and Terry Smith

“They all have their specialties,” Harriet says. “Some are better at wildlife than others.  Some are better at painting people. This is how we’ve chosen through the years – by what their talents are and what is required in the mural.”

“Caladium Fields” by Thomas Freeman

There has never been a competition or a call put out for the artists.  They were chosen through connections with the Caladium Arts and Crafts Co-op, which Harriet also began with her husband.

The Process

Not just any mural can be painted on the side of a building.  Everything is related to Lake Placid.  The history is researched and provided to an artist, who in turn interprets the information in their own way.  A full-color rendering is provided to the Mural Society before any paint can go on the wall.  Once approved, the painting begins.

All of the original renderings hang inside the Chamber of Commerce and are on display during business hours.

Something for Everyone

“The Murals of Lake Placid” guide book will make your visit complete and can be purchased at the Chamber or any number of businesses in town.  The guide includes information about the mural, the artist and even offers an interactive activity for each of them.

If you or your children like to find hidden pictures, the murals have that to offer as well.  Each of them has something either hidden or missing and the guide book tells you what to look for in each mural.

Portion of “Our Citrus Heritage.” There are four hidden oranges with smiley faces in this mural.  

“Bassin'” Can you find what’s missing?

The mural that started the interactive activities was another of the town’s favorites, “Bassin’” another mural painted by Keith Goodson.  Harriet says when Goodson was finishing up he told her he didn’t think he could put another brush load of paint on the mural.  About two weeks after the scaffolding was removed, a woman told Harriet the artist forgot something.

“I said, ‘forgot?” Harriet remembers, and rushed over to look at it.  “Sure enough, he had.”

Goodson offered to go back and finish it, but Harriet decided against it and made that a regular feature of all murals from that day on.

Response to the Murals

The murals have become an important part of Lake Placid, helping them win the distinction of “America’s Most Interesting Town” in 2013 by the Reader’s Digest. Tourism has seen an increase, which means restaurants and stores benefit from the extra people in town.  More than 150 cities and towns across the United States and Canada have reached out to ask how to start their own mural project.  The result of that is the Florida Mural Trail, comprised of about a dozen other towns showcasing their own artwork.

“America’s Most Interesting Town”

More to Offer

You can easily spend the day in Lake Placid, visiting the murals and reading about their history.  Many of the murals are grouped together, which makes it easy to park the car and walk.  No need to worry about getting in the way of the locals when you play tourist.  They’ll just smile or wave when you stop to take pictures.

“Birding” is located in the Lake Placid Noon Rotary Park along with “Layers of Time”

Of course there is much more to Lake Placid than just the murals, but you’ll have to visit for yourself to find the other hidden gems in this town with “history all around.”

 

FM Footnote:  Selecting mural photographs to share in this post was difficult, so don’t be surprised if there is another post with more photos and more about what Lake Placid has to offer.  In the meantime, please visit this little town (or any of the other towns on the Florida Mural Trail) and see up close the amazing talent and ideas that brought this project to fruition.

Micanopy: The Town that Time Forgot

A quiet Saturday morning on Cholokka Boulevard in Micanopy.

A Saturday visit to Micanopy demonstrated the laid back way of life in this small Florida town.  Closing in on 10:00 a.m., the streets were void of cars and the shops had not yet opened.  The only life in this little town at that time of the morning was at the Coffee n’ Cream Café.  Guests sat outside on the porch, having their morning coffee and catching up on each other’s lives.  They were the early birds.  We were told most people didn’t start showing up in town until sometime between 10:00 a.m. and noon.

Micanopy is the oldest inland community in Florida and was named for Seminole Indian Chief Micanopy.  The town started out as an Indian trading post in 1821.  When a 45-mile road from present-day Palatka to Micanopy was built in 1822 by a select group of settlers and craftsmen from New York, it opened the area up to what would become a vegetable growing hub and busy market town in this section of the state.

The town fell into some hard times during the Second Seminole War in the 1830s and had to be rebuilt. Some of those buildings are now on the National Register of Historic Places.

Just one of the buildings holding this distinction.

 

Known as “The Town that Time Forgot,” Micanopy is home to about 600 people.  The main street through town, Cholokka Boulevard, is lined with gift shops and antique stores, from the eclectic to the traditional.  Those shops are a draw for tourists.

Another draw is The Herlong Mansion Historic Inn and Gardens which epitomizes the charm of Micanopy.  A long brick sidewalk leads to the front doors of this bed and breakfast.  Built in 1845, the mansion now hosts a series of suites, rooms and cottages.

An inviting entrance to the Herlong Mansion

The charm of this little town has also been the backdrop for a couple of movies.  Micanopy was the setting for Cross Creek in 1985 and then in 1991 turned into Grady, South Carolina for a few short months during the filming of Doc Hollywood, starring Michael J. Fox.  If you look close enough, you can see where the building that served as the garage where Dr. Stone’s car was repaired.

This building served as the garage in the 1991 movie Doc Hollywood starring Michael J. Fox.

Not everything is always quiet here.  One weekend out of the year, the town transforms into a two-day arts and crafts festival which draws in tens of thousands of people into the small downtown area.  The main boulevard is closed off for vendors from around the state for the Micanopy Fall Festival.

Food, crafts and art.  A winning combination for Micanopy.

Crowds are the norm for the Micanopy Fall Festival.

A descendant of the original Florida Highwaymen shows off his talents at the festival.

Once the festival ends, the town goes back to the way it was:  one of those little gems that can be found off the main highways.  If you want to get out early on a Saturday to do a little antique shopping, wait until after 10:00 a.m.  But if you’re looking for a quiet way to start the day, this little town is the perfect place.

A quaint little town.

This antique store is permanently closed. FM Facts

The 42nd Annual Micanopy Fall Festival will be held Saturday and Sunday, October 28 and 29, 2017.