Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

Sopchoppy Worm Gruntin’ Festival

Only in Florida can you toss mullet, dance with pirates, watch swamp buggies race, or feast on swamp cabbage—all part of the flavorful and festive traditions found across the state.

Of all the festivals I’ve been to over the years, the Sopchoppy Worm Gruntin’ Festival is the only one I’ve been to where the stars of the show are slimy, wriggling, and completely unaware they’re part of the entertainment. Before I made my way to Sopchoppy, which also happens to be the Worm Gruntin’ Capital of the World, I didn’t have the faintest idea what worm grunting was all about. I mean, how exciting could coaxing worms out of the ground really be? But curiosity got the better of me—and I couldn’t resist digging in.

What is Worm Grunting?

Worm grunting is simply a method used to lure the worms out of their burrows using a wooden stob and a roopin’ iron. By driving the stob into the ground, then rubbing the roopin’ iron over the top, the result is a grunting sound that causes the stob to vibrate. This vibration is sent into the ground and is said to mimic the movement of a mole – one of the worm’s enemies – and cause the worms to surface.

Interestingly enough, in 1881, in his book “The Formation of Vegetable Mould Through the Action of Worms,” Charles Darwin theorized this phenomenon: “It is often said that if the ground is beaten or otherwise made to tremble, worms will believe that they are being pursued by a mole and leave their burrow.” His theory was proven correct 127 years later (2008) when Vanderbilt biologist Ken Catania traveled to the Apalachicola National Forest and tested the hypothesis.

Why Sopchoppy? Why did this small Florida town become ground zero for worm grunting in the United States? 

Back before plastic lures were used for fishing, worm grunting was THE way to get live worms for bait – especially in the Apalachicola National Forest and surrounding areas due to the flatwoods and good topsoil. The worms aren’t just your run of the mill worms. These earthworms are a native species for the forest.

Sopchoppy resident Lossie Mae Rosier (1927-2011) is given credit for starting the practice of worm grunting in the area. Beginning in 1950 she began harvesting the worms and used the money she made selling them as fishing bait to raise her 11 children. (Rosier went on to be crowned the Queen of the Worm Gruntin’ Festival in 2003.)

Worm Gruntin’ Festival queen Lossie Mae Rosier with others in Sopchoppy. 2004. State Archives of Florida, Florida Memory.

Others began to follow suit and the harvesting reached its peak in the 1960s when hundreds of worm grunters traipsed through the Apalachicola National Forest gathering millions of worms.  The popularity was so intense the Forest Service stepped in and started issuing permits out of the concern for these native worms.  Gary Revell, who calls himself the “Worm Man,” is a legend in these parts and has been worm grunting for about 70 years, learning from his father.  He says at one time there were 700 permits, but now he is one of the last ones to hold a permit.

Gary and Audrey Revell | Floridiana Magazine | Doris Keeler

Gary and his wife Audrey are still worm grunting, but on a much smaller scale. And they are annual fixtures at the Worm Gruntin’ Festival.

History of Sopchoppy Worm Gruntin’ Festival

Now in its 25th year, the Sopchoppy Worm Gruntin’ Festival started as a way to celebrate this tradition. Held on the second Saturday in April, the festival draws thousands of people to the Sopchoppy Depot Park. The day starts with a fun run and culminates with the Worm Grunters Ball. In between there are vendors and food trucks, live music, and the crowning of the Worm Gruntin’ Festival Queen. But probably the highlight of the day is the worm grunting contest for kids 12 and under.

Field of worm grunters. | Floridiana Magazine | Doris Keeler

Sopchoppy Worm Gruntin” Festival | Floridiana Magazine | Doris Keeler

Concentration is key to worm grunting | Floridiana Magazine | Doris Keeler

You haven’t seen anything until you’ve seen these kids – armed with stakes and metal rods – get down to business in a field next to the depot.  The field, once a parking lot, is seeded with worms in advance to give these youngsters a chance at a successful haul.   And just like they are trying to coax the worms out of the ground, their moms and dads, grandparents, and other family members are there coaxing them on, offering advice, and helping to watch for the little wrigglers to emerge.

A helping hand | Floridiana Magazine | Doris Keeler

As the contest wears on, the plastic cups fill up. Some of the young grunters give up their tools to their parents. Others stick with it until the end.

Wiggly worms – the stars of the show | Floridiana Magazine | Doris Keeler

To Gary Revell, seeing the children participating creates hope that one of these kids will be inspired and take to the woods and continue the tradition.

What else is there to do in and around Sopchoppy?

Whether you are in Sopchoppy for the festival or just looking for something to do, there are a few places you don’t want to miss while you’re there.

The Sopchoppy Train Depot Museum: The museum sits in the center of town and serves as a small museum celebrating the town’s early railroad days.  Once a vital stop along the Carrabelle, Tallahassee and Georgia Railroad, the depot offers a glimpse into the town’s history and features local artifacts, photographs, and stories of the region’s development. Even the train that ran through Sopchoppy played a part in the worm grunting history, picking up worms that had been harvested and distributing them to fishing stores throughout Georgia. And yes, there’s a wall devoted to the history of worm grunting in the area.

Sopchoppy Depot Museum | Floridiana Magazine | Doris Keeler

A Stroll through Town: A walk through Sopchoppy takes the history out of the museum and onto the streets.  From the old Martha Syfrett Revell Rooming House to the historic brick buildings (circa 1900s) turned into coffee and pastry shops, Sopchoppy remains a living testament to old Florida.

Downtown Sopchoppy | Floridiana Magazine | Doris Keeler

Rooming House | Floridiana Magazine | Doris Keeler

Other Points of Interest: In addition to the local culture, visitors to the area can spend time at the Ochlockonee River State Park, the Myron B. Hodge City Park, the Sopchoppy Opry, and George Griffin Pottery.  Within a short drive of Sopchoppy is the Wakulla Springs State Park, the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, and other small towns like Carrabelle.

Turns out, worm grunting is one of those wonderfully weird Florida traditions that you have to see—and hear—to believe. Between the small-town charm, the lively crowd, and the unmistakable sound of a roopin’ iron at work, the  Sopchoppy Worm Gruntin’ Festival  is yet another reason to love Florida’s quirky festival scene.

Enjoy some of my photos in the slideshow below.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Cedar Key – Open for Business

**Note: This was written after Hurricane Idalia ravaged Cedar Key in August 2023, leaving the item rebuilding from the storm surge and winds.  This post does not include the devastation in 2024 from Hurricanes Debby (Augusut) and Helene (September), and a fire on Dock Street.  Cedar Key residents are resilient and have been hard at work to reopen many of the businesses on the island.  Stay tuned for an update from Floridiana Magazine in the coming months.

 

The first thing you will notice is this isn’t one of my typical posts where I share the history of one of Florida’s small communities, or its small-town charm.  Instead, this is a story about how the resilience, spirit, and strength of an entire island community came together in just a few short months of Hurricane Idalia lashing out to rebuild and reopen. This is a story to show that Cedar Key is indeed open, and the welcome mat is out for visitors.

Cedar Key is open for business | Photo collage by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Lodging

Tide’s Pull at Cedar Key

There are plenty of places to stay on the island: beach front homes, quaint cottages, condos, an historic hotel, and a bed and breakfast. For our recent visit, we stayed at Tide’s Pull in the Old Fenimore Mill condos.  With a second-floor balcony overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, we were treated to beautiful sunrises and dolphins frolicking in the waters. The balcony was a beautiful place to begin and end the day. Inside, the amenities were just as welcoming.  A king size bed, a spacious bathroom, well-stocked kitchen, dining area, and a comfortable living room made this the perfect home away from home. Tide’s Pull is also within walking distance of the playground and public beach, and if you’re up to it, it’s a nice walk to Dock Street.

Tide’s Pull at Cedar Key | Photo from Tide’s Pull rental page

When you enjoy your stay, leave a kind note | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Sunrises from the second floor balcony did not disappoint | Photo by Doris Keeler,. Floridiana Magazine

Dining

When we made the decision to go to Cedar Key, we turned to social media for recommendations on food and it did not disappoint.  There was no way to get to all those places in a short time, but we did manage to get to a few of them.  And, unfortunately, a few of the restaurants we wanted to visit closed early, so they’ll be on our list for our next visit.  Because hours are fluctuating since the storm, it’s recommended to call ahead and find out when they are open.  Addresses and phone numbers have been included for your convenience.

Steamers Clam Bar & Grill 

Located on Dock Street, this is one of the island’s mainstays. We enjoyed dinner there on two separate occasions, and both times we were pleased with both the food and the service.

  • 420 Dock Street
  • 352-543-5142

Steamers Clam Bar & Grill, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Steamers Clam Bar & Grill, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Fish Dip Appetizer, Steamers | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Key Lime Pie, Steamers | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

29 North at 83 West 

29 North is located on the second floor at 83 West and offers picturesque views of the Gulf of Mexico.  No matter where you are seated, there’s not a bad table in the house. 29 North does not take reservations and they only seat up to 8 guests at a table. The full-service dining is a pleasant experience with food selections to tempt any taste bud. Below 29 North is 83 West – a casual bar atmosphere which also serves food from 29 North.

  • 310 Dock Street
  • 352-543-5070

29 North at 893 West, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

29 North Menu, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Desserts and Drinks Menu | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shrimp and Grits (YUMMY) | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Pumpkin Banana Pudding Icebox Cake | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Big Deck Bar & Grill 

Big Deck was just reopening during our visit in November.  A great relaxed atmosphere with a full menu that includes appetizers and snacks, dinner entrees, and sandwiches. Seating outside.

  • 331 Dock Street
  • 352-543-9922

Big Deck Bar & Grill, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Annie’s Café 

A great go-to for a good lunch, with seating both inside and outside. We’ve eaten here a few times on various visits.

  • 609 6th Street
  • 352-543-6141

Annie’s Cedar Key, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Tony’s Seafood 

THE best clam chowder!  Tony’s is located in the historic Hale Building (est. 1880) on the corner of 2nd Street and D Street.  Prior to Hurricane Idalia, they were a full-service restaurant.  Now they mainly serve their signature Clam Chowder, which is why visitors went anyway – right? Still a great place to dine.

  • 597 2nd Street
  • 352-543-0022

Championship Clam Chowder, Tony’s, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Historic Hale Building, Home of Tony’s | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

2nd Street Café 

This was our favorite place to grab breakfast. Fast and courteous service, along with great food, got our days started off on the right foot. We chose to sit outside, although there is indoor seating available as well.

  • 434 2nd Street
  • 352-477-5099

2nd Street Cafe, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Great place for a cup of coffee! | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Cedar Key

Bacon, eggs, pancakes – a filling breakfast! | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shopping

When visiting a small community like Cedar Key, shopping in the local stores can lead to treasures.  Plus, it’s always nice to give business to the locals.  We had the chance to visit a few of the stores on our recent trip.

Salt Marsh Cottage

This was the first store we stopped in, and I’m glad we did.  I had a nice conversation with the lady working there that day. She recounted the impact of Hurricane Idalia on the shop and how the island community came together.

  • 618 D Street
  • 352-477-5100

Salt Marsh Cottage, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Main Street Mercantile

Main Street Mercantile is located in the historic Lutterloh Building (est. 1872) and is home to a gift shop. I was directed there because I was looking for an ornament for my Christmas tree that had “Cedar Key” painted on it.  I was not let down.

  • 457 2nd Street
  • 352-222-8585

Main Street Mercantile, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Dilly Dally Gally

If you’re looking for any Cedar Key attire, I’d say the Dilly Dally Galley is a good place to go. Located on Dock Street, it is packed full of goodies.  From women’s apparel, to children’s items, to t-shirts, and jewelry.  You’re sure to find something you like there.

  • 390 Dock Street
  • 352-543-9146

Dilly Dally Gally, Dock Street | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Other Things to Do

Vacations to me are mostly about relaxing, so if you agree, Cedar Key is the place to go.  I’m content to drive around town, looking at historic homes, old churches, and wildlife.

Lighthouse Tour

Luckily for us, our trip coincided with one of the quarterly open houses of the lighthouse on Seahorse Key. We’ve been before, but it’s always fun to take another tour.

Check ahead to see when the 2024 open houses are scheduled.

Cedar Key Lighthouse | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Cedar Key Historical Society & Museum 

The Historical Society was formed in 1977 and the museum opened two years later in 1979.  A minimal fee allows visitors to take a step back into the history books of Cedar Key.

  • 609 2nd Street
  • 352-543-5549

Historical Society Museum, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler

Cedar Key Community Garden 

The Community Garden is tucked away on 2nd Street between A & B Streets and is a fun find.  Started by a group of volunteers, the garden is home to many raised beds, featuring herbs, vegetables, and flowers.  It’s a quiet little spot is another example of community.

Community Garden, Cedar Key | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Please don’t pick! | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Fishing off the Pier 

Although we weren’t fishing, there were plenty of others who staked their claim on the pier, hoping to haul in their catch of the day. Of course, there’s always plenty of places offshore to drop a line.  If you don’t have your own boat, check into the fishing charters while you’re there.

Fishing from the pier | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Cedar Key feels like home to me.  I’m not sure why.  Maybe because I covered Hurricane Elena in 1985 while working at a Gainesville television station and witnessed first-hand the sense of community. Maybe it’s because the times I’ve visited, I’ve felt more like one of the townspeople than a tourist on the island.  Whatever the reason, this island is good for the soul and now it’s a part of my soul.

I’ll be back!

Please take a minute and watch the slideshow of some of the pictures I took on the island.  And please leave me a comment.

 

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Carrabelle, Florida: Get Hooked  

Carrabelle. A quaint little town on U.S. 98 along Florida’s Forgotten Coast. It’s a town most folks drive through to get to Apalachicola or St. George Island.  But for those who choose to venture off the main road, there’s a town full of history, some unique attractions, a beautiful beach, and a fisherman’s paradise – all which prove why it’s easy to get hooked on Carrabelle.

City of Carrabelle Clock | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

History of Carrabelle

Carrabelle’s rich history spans centuries, from the Native American tribes that originally inhabited the area, to the Spanish explorers who established a presence in the area and made it a focal point for trade and exploration.

Carrabelle’s natural resources also played a significant role in shaping its history. Fishing became a vital industry, with the Gulf waters providing a bounty of seafood that sustained the local community and supported trade. The forests surrounding Carrabelle led to the rise of a thriving timber industry and fueled the growth of sawmills and lumber operations.

How Did Carrabelle Get Its Name?

In the early 1870s, Oliver Hudson Kelly, a farmer from Massachusetts, visited the area to study the potential for agriculture for the U.S. Department of Agriculture.  He was impressed by the natural resources he saw and, in 1877, founded the town of “Rio Carrabella” or “beautiful river.” It’s believed Kelly named the town after his niece Caroline Arrabella Hall. The town was incorporated in 1893.

Impact of World War II

During World War II, Carrabelle played a significant role in the war effort. The town’s strategic coastal location made it an ideal site for military training and operations. In 1942, Camp Gordon Johnston was established near Carrabelle, becoming a crucial training center for amphibious warfare. The camp trained about a quarter million soldiers on the coast of Carrabelle in beach landings, waterborne maneuvers, and other essential skills needed for the war’s Pacific and European theaters. The Camp was closed in June of 1946.

Camp Gordon Johnston – a critical training area during WWII | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Aerial View of Camp Gordon Johnston, 1942-1946 | Floridiana Magazine

Carrabelle Museums

While you’re in Carrabelle, you can get a glimpse of all its history, thanks to three separate museums honoring World War II, the town itself, and the Crooked River Lighthouse.

Camp Gordon Johnston World War II Museum

The museum preserves and showcases the history of Camp Gordon Johnston. Visitors to the museum can take a step back in time and explore a wide range of artifacts, photographs, and documents that provide insights into the training programs, equipment, and daily life of soldiers who were stationed at the camp.

Welcome to Camp Gordon Johnston | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Museum displays capture the attention of even the young. | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Living Quarters | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. and is located on Highway 98 West.  There is no charge for admission, but donations are welcome.

Carrabelle History Museum

From its indigenous roots to its maritime heritage, the Carrabelle History Museum offers a comprehensive look at the town’s cultural fabric. The museum is housed in the old City Hall on Avenue B. Visitors are met with a wide variety of displays – from the history of Carrabelle, to the importance of salt in WWII and its connection to the Forgotten Coast, fishing equipment, the history of shipwrecks and the lumber industry, and the tales of local legends. You will also find the original “World’s Smallest Police Station” on display in the museum.

The Carrabelle History Museum is open Wednesdays from noon until 5:00 p.m., Thursday through Saturday from 10:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m., and Sunday from noon until 5:00 p.m.   There is no charge for admission.

Carrabelle History Museum | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Display of salt kettle and cannon | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Fishing was a vital industry. | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The original World’s Smallest Police Station | Floridiana Magazine

Crooked River Lighthouse Keeper’s House Museum & Park

Built in 1895, the Crooked River Lighthouse provided guidance for timber ships and fishermen through the pass between Dog Island and St. George Islands. The 103- foot iron and steel structure was built on the mainland as a replacement to the three lighthouses that once stood on Dog Island. Crooked River was decommissioned in 1995, just shy of its 100th anniversary.

The lighthouse was lit with what was believed to be the first bivalve fourth order Fresnel lens installed in the United States at the time. The lens remained in the lighthouse until 1976, when it was moved to the Coast Guard’s district offices in New Orleans.  The light was recently refurbished and is now on permanent display inside the museum.

Crooked River Lighthouse, Carrabelle, FL | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The accompanying Keeper’s House Museum is a replica of the original keeper’s house. Not only does it house the Fresnel lens, it also shares the history of the lighthouse, maritime trade, and the families who lived and worked in the area.

Keeper’s House Museum | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

 

Although the park is open every day from dawn until dusk, you can only visit the museum and gift shop Thursday through Sunday from noon until 5:00 p.m. Lighthouse climbing is limited to Saturdays and Sundays from 1:00 until 4:00 p.m.  As a side note, there are 138 steps to the top. There is no charge for the museum, but there is a small fee to climb the lighthouse.

Unique Attractions of Carrabelle

Like other small towns, Carrabelle lays claim to a few surprising oddities that must be included on your to-do list in town.  The World’s Smallest Police Station and a Bottle House attract people from all over the country, if not the world.

World’s Smallest Police Station

This unique attraction started as a phone in a call box in 1953 bolted to the wall of a building in town. It was a convenient way for officers to answer police calls while out walking the beat, even though they often got wet when it was raining. Unfortunately, the phone was misused by folks in the community, and it was decided to move the box to another location.

That didn’t remedy the situation, so when the phone company replaced an old phone booth, it was the solution the town was looking for.  The old phone booth was moved to its current location on Highway 98 in 1963 and the police phone was installed.  It was dubbed the World’s Smallest Police Station. Now, the officers could answer their calls and stay out of the elements.  The dial was eventually removed because of continued misuse by residents.  What you see now on Highway 98 is a replica of the original booth. You can see the real thing inside the Carrabelle History Museum.

World’s Smallest Police Station, Carrabelle, FL | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The World’s Smallest Police station is a favorite for all ages. | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Carrabelle Bottle House

Also close to downtown, sits a shining example of one man’s ingenuity – a house and lighthouse made from glass bottles. Over a year’s time, Leon Weisner crafted more than 6,000 bottles he got from his friends and neighbors, a recycling center, or from dumpster diving. The bright blues and greens of the bottles shine in the sunlight. If you’re lucky enough to be there at dusk, the lights inside the structures come on for several hours.

There is no admission charge, just make sure you close the gate when you enter and exit so the resident dogs do not get out.

Carrabelle Bottle House | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

 

Other Things to See and Do in Carrabelle

The Beach

The public beach is a popular destination for those looking for some fun in the sun.  The white sugar sand beaches offer a place to relax in the Gulf waters or watch dolphins play offshore.  Beach goers also have access to the newly renovated Wayside Park pavilions and restrooms.

Carrabelle Beach | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The Riverfront

Not all water activities are centered around the beach.  Carrabelle is a working waterfront community that also provides access to recreational fishing and boating. The New River and Crooked River join at the Carrabelle River and connect to the Gulf of Mexico. Whether you fish from the Carrabelle River Walk or schedule a charter boat, salt water and freshwater fishing offer up some good catches.

Along the riverfront | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Boating, fishing … fun on the water | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Dining

One of the fun parts of visiting small towns is finding new places to eat. There are several to choose from in Carrabelle, but there are only so many places you can eat in one day. During our visit we stopped in Harry’s Bar and ordered our lunch from the adjacent Marine Street Grill.  Good food and a fun atmosphere.

Harry’s Bar and Marine Street Grill | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Always look up! | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

How to Get To Carrabelle

Carrabelle is located on Highway 98 along the Gulf of Mexico 20 miles east of Apalachicola and about 50 miles southwest of Tallahassee.

Final Thoughts

Carrabelle is one of many small towns dotting the Florida coastline.  It’s old Florida at its finest and once you visit, we’re sure you will get hooked on Carrabelle as well.

Click on the slideshow below to see more of our pictures from our visit to Carrabelle and leave a comment about your favorite Florida small town.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Madison County, FL

Long before I started writing about Florida, Madison County was one of my favorite places to visit.  Years ago, I spent many hours researching family history with my parents. Before county records were digitized, we would visit the courthouse and leaf through pages of old marriage records, land grants, and wills. Then we would visit Elmer’s Genealogy Library (no longer in existence) or head out to some of the old cemeteries in the county. At the time, I thought that Madison County was just another small, rural county.  Today, that’s what makes it enchanting as a county that still represents old Florida.

History of Madison County

Just six years after Florida became a U.S. territory in 1821, Madison County was established in 1827 from Jefferson County and was one of 15 counties at the time.  Named after James Madison, the fourth president of the United States, Madison’s early economy was centered around cotton and tobacco, much like other north Florida counties at the time. After the Civil War, the county rebuilt its economy with the help of the railroad which brought new industries and people to the area. Cotton was wiped out after the arrival of the boll weevil in 1916.

Today, Madison County is home to nearly 18,500 people and the key industries include education, public administration, retail, and health care and social services.

Madison County Courthouse, Built 1912 | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Towns and Cities in Madison County

Madison, Our Attraction is Only Natural

The small town of Madison is the heart of the county, established as the county seat in 1838 during the Seminole Indian Wars.  As the main hub for government and business, it has been named one of the “Best Little Towns in Florida” by Visit Florida. Madison boasts a charming downtown historic district, with quaint antique shops, gift shops, and restaurants. One of our favorite restaurants is Grumpy’s Diner.  Great food in the heart of downtown. Don’t let the name fool you.  No matter if we are in the restaurant or shopping in one of the stores, the townspeople are friendly and hospitable.

Madison, FL Train Depot | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Grumpy’s Diner | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Greenville

About 13 miles west of the town of Madison along Highway 90 is Greenville. From the highway, there doesn’t appear to be much, but one of this town’s hidden gems is located just off 90 in the Haffye Hays Park on Broad Street. That is where you will find a life-size bronze statue of musician Ray Charles.  Created by Bradley Cooley, it was placed in the park in 2005, after Charles’ death a year earlier.  Although Charles was not born in Greenville, he and his mother moved to town when he was only a month or so old. That’s where he learned to play the piano from a local café owner. Charles’ grew up in a home on SW Ray Charles Road which has been restored by the Florida Bureau of Historic Preservation. Ray lived in Greenville until he was seven, when he was sent to The Florida School for the Deaf and Blind in St. Augustine. He continued making frequent visits to Greenville to see his mother, until she died when he was only 15.

Ray Charles Bronze Statue, Haffye Hays Park, Greenville | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Ray Charles’ Childhood Home | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Ray Charles’ Childhood Home | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Things to See and Do in Madison County:

The Treasures of Madison County Museum

When you travel to Madison County, there are a few things you must see while you’re there. First things first, a stop by the Treasures of Madison County Museum on Range Avenue. Located in the W.T. Davis Building, one of the buildings of historic importance in town, the museum offers an impressive look at the history of the county. Take a stroll through time in the museum’s exhibits. From military to medicine, to churches and vintage clothing, the space is filled with artifacts and memorabilia.

Treasures Museum in the W.T. Davis Building. Built 1890s | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Don’t forget to pick up your copy of the Historic Walking/Driving Tour brochure | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Four Freedoms Park and Four Freedoms Monument

Four Freedoms Monument is number one on the museum’s tour brochure. Situated in the picturesque Four Freedoms Park, which takes up an entire city block, the monument commemorates the Four Freedoms identified by President Franklin D. Roosevelt in his 1941 State of the Union Address: Freedom of Speech, Freedom of Worship, Freedom from Want, and Freedom from Fear.  The monument is dedicated to Madison County native Colin P. Kelly, Jr., who was recognized as one of the first U.S. heroes of World War II.  It also honors other Madison County servicemen who died in WWII. The statue was originally dedicated in 1943 in Madison Square Garden in New York City to a crowd of 60,000 people. It was moved to Madison and rededicated in June of 1944.

Four Freedoms Monument, Madison County | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The park also pays tribute to the Confederate soldiers of the county. The “Our Confederate Soldiers” statue was unveiled by the Daughters of the Confederacy in 1905, and although there have been plans to remove the statue, as of May 2023, it still stands. Other memorials within the park commemorate the First Baptist Convention and Former Slaves of Madison County.

Tribute to Madison County’s Confederate Soldiers | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine (May 2023)

Madison County Courthouse

Across Base Street (Highway 90) from the park is the Madison County Courthouse.  Built in 1912, it is the county’s fourth courthouse and the third one built in the city of Madison. The first courthouse was a log building in San Pedro, which also served as the county seat from 1828-1838. The courthouse was abandoned along with the town. The second courthouse was built in 1840 and burned in 1876. It was replaced by a brick structure in 1880 which was destroyed by fire in 1912. Most of the county records, some dating back to 1831, were saved. The courthouse is still in use today.  It has never been added onto or expanded.

Madison County Courthouse as seen from the Four Freedoms Park | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Standpipe/Watertower

Behind and to the right of the courthouse is the standpipe, built in 1894 as part of the city of Madison’s first public water supply. According to the April – June 2002 issue of The Madison County, Florida Genealogical News, the tower is 100 feet tall and held 133,000 gallons of water when it was completely full. Water was free until January 1, 1895, and then consumers were charged for their usage. The standpipe is no longer in use but is believed to be one of only two standpipes still in existence in Florida.

Standpipe at the Madison County Courthouse | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Wardlaw-Smith-Goza Conference Center

No visit to Madison is complete without a drive by the Wardlaw-Smith-Goza Conference Center. The property sits on Highway 90 (Base Street) on the south and Marion Street on the north. Built in 1860, it served as a hospital for both Confederate and Union troops during the Civil War. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1972.

Wardlaw-Smith House | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Wardlaw-Smith House Historic Sign | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Backroads of Madison County

Of course, once you get out of downtown, the county is home to many backroads that offer beautiful views of the countryside, old churches, and old buildings. One of my favorites is Highway 53 north out of town to the Cherry Lake community or Highway 145 north into Pinetta.

Go slow, pull over to let others pass if you have to, and enjoy the scenery. Oh, and don’t be afraid to turn onto a dirt road or two. You’ll never know what you might find.

Madison County, FL Backroad | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Old Tobacco Structure, Madison County, FL Backroads | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Old Tobacco Structure, Madison County Backroads | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shiloh Methodist Church, Madison County, FL | Photo by Doris Collins Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

How to Get There

Madison County is located north of Interstate 10 about six miles at Exit 258 (Highway 53).  From Tallahassee, travel east on U.S. 90 bout 55 miles. It is also about 112 miles west of Jacksonville.  Madison County is indeed a faraway place that’s not very far away.

Please like our post, share it on social media, and leave a comment about Madison County. And if you like Madison County, you’re sure to like Monticello.  Check it out here.

See our slideshow below for more photos from our adventures into Madison.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Havana: Florida’s Friendliest Small Town

From its heyday as a major shade tobacco producer to its popularity for antiques and vintage collectable shops, Havana is one of those small Florida towns that exudes southern charm. A walk through the museum, the shops, or a stop in one of the local restaurants provide visitors with personal experiences of why Havana is considered Florida’s Friendliest Small Town.

History of Havana

Like many small Florida towns, railroad expansion provided the catalyst for Havana’s formation. A track was completed for the Georgia, Florida and Alabama Railroad in 1902 from Cuthbert, Georgia to Tallahassee, Florida, and in 1904 the small town of Havana began to take shape. Within two years, families had moved in and businesses were opened, and in 1906, Havana was founded.  The name “Havana,” proposed by local schoolteacher James Mathewson, pays homage to the Cuban tobacco cultivated in the area. It was a crop that would carry this town until the late 1960s.

While Havana was prospering in the tobacco fields, a fire in 1916 destroyed 24 stores and residences in or near the business district. According to an article that appeared in The News Leader, Richmond, VA on Saturday, March 18, 1916, only three buildings were left standing. The town would have to rebuild.

The News Leader, Richmond, VA, March 18, 1916

Shade Tobacco History

Even though Havana was not incorporated until 1906, the history of shade tobacco farming goes back to the 1800s. Early growers discovered that if tobacco plants grew in the shade of a tree, they produced thinner outer leaves and resulted in a more delicate taste. Growers adapted to this discovery and the “shaded” fields evolved from wooden slatting to plastic mesh.

Miles Henry Womack in a field of tobacco being grown under slats – Havana, Florida. 1910 (circa). State Archives of Florida, Florida Memory. Accessed 20 Mar. 2023.<https://www.floridamemory.com/items/show/28703>

Magnus Delacy Peavy and his farm hands in front of a tobacco barn – Havana, Florida. 1910 (circa). State Archives of Florida, Florida Memory. Accessed 20 Mar. 2023.<https://www.floridamemory.com/items/show/30349>

At the peak of its tobacco farming, Havana and the surrounding areas were home to more than 2,000 tobacco barns that housed the tobacco used as the outer wrappers of cigars. Over the years, those barns have fallen prey to neglect and weather, and their numbers are nearly non-existent. If you drive around Gadsden County today, you can see some of them. There’s evidence that the property owners are trying to restore some of them.

Tobacco Barn in Gadsden County | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Tobacco Barn in Gadsden County | Photo taken by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Tobacco Barn in Gadsden County under renovation | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

At one time there were 2,000 to 3,000 people working in the industry in Havana, and the value of the crops grew to $22 million. But unfortunately, that all ended in the late 1960s. One of the main reasons was that growers in South and Central America were able to produce the wrappers at a cheaper cost. New technology also allowed the outer coverings to be produced thinner and at scale.

What to Do in Havana

Shade Tobacco Museum

First and foremost, a stop in the museum is a must. A self-guided tour provides an in-depth glimpse of a once profitable industry and the work that went into successful crops. Read about the process from cultivation to cigar making.  Get a close look at some of the farming implements used, the way tobacco leaves were strung, and the molds used for the cigar making process.

Entrance to Shade Tobacco Museum| Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Boxes used to size tobacco leaves | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Tobacco Wrapper Exhibit, Shade Tobacco Museum | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Tobacco leaves | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

While the museum’s main exhibit centers around tobacco, visitors can learn more about schools, churches, and businesses in the area.

Cigars can be purchased in the Shade Tobacco Museum | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The museum is open Saturdays from 10:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and on Sundays from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Shops and Restaurants

When the tobacco industry folded, Havana went through a rebirth of sorts.  Downtown is now lined with antique shops, furniture, boutiques, arts, and restaurants, and holds numerous events throughout the year to draw patrons into Havana.

The Planter’s Exchange, a hub of activity in Havana | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shops and restaurants line the streets | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Clock and fountain | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

What to See

Murals

Like other small Florida towns, murals now grace the sides of downtown businesses, portraying the past and offering a look into the future.  Besides building murals, there are also quilt murals – all painted by Florida artists.

Havana Motor Co. Mural | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Train Mural, paying homage to the railroad industry in Gadsden County | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Havana Mural | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Havana State Bank

Work was completed in July 2024 on the old Havana State Bank building (now known as the Slappey Building) to restore it to the way it was in the 1950s.  A state historical grant is assisting with the funding for the renovation efforts. Although some work has already been done, the rebuilding will begin May 2023.   Stop by for a look now, and then make plans to go once it has been restored to its original beauty.

Historic Havana State Bank | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Havana State Bank | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

How to Get To Havana, FL

If you are traveling Interstate 10, you will want to exit onto Highway 27 at mile marker 199. Travel about 12 miles north into the heart of the town.  (It’s also located six miles south of the Georgia state line.) The drive to Havana provides some scenic views of the old Florida countryside. Whether you are visiting the Shade Tobacco Museum, shopping, or dining in one of the quaint little restaurants, you will soon find out why Havana is considered the Friendliest Small Town in Florida.

Please take a look at the slide show for more photos of our trip to Havana.

 

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

Lloyd and its Historic Railroad Depot

Tucked away in Jefferson County, about a mile south of Interstate 10 on State Road 59 is a small town with a population of 140. Lloyd may not be a booming metropolis now but imagine a time when it was a bustling agricultural center. At the heart of that activity was the Lloyd Depot, now a historic landmark. It is the oldest brick depot and one of only two surviving Antebellum depots in Florida.

Lloyd Depot | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Lloyd Depot – oldest brick depot in Florida | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Lloyd Depot History

The Pensacola and Georgia Railroad began construction of the railroad in 1856. It would run from Tallahassee to Lake City then connect with the Florida, Atlantic and Gulf Railroad line to Jacksonville. In 1858, the railway was completed and the depot was built. Originally known as the Bailey’s Mill Station and then the Number Two Station, the depot served as a major shipping hub for cotton and other agricultural products. At the time, Jefferson County was one of the major cotton producing areas in the state and the railway provided planters with access to seaports on both the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts.

The railway met with great support from the growers in the area. Prior to the railroad going through Lloyd, cotton growers sent their crops by several means including ox-drawn wagons to St. Marks more than 30 miles away.

Wagons unloading cotton at the Seaboard Air Line depot – Lloyd, Florida. 1890 (circa).State Archives of Florida, Florida Memory. Accessed 19 Jun. 2022.<https://www.floridamemory.com/items/show/26673>

During the Civil War, the railroad transported wounded Confederate soldiers to hospitals to the west. Some of them were taken off the train in Lloyd and were doctored by local women in makeshift hospitals until the soldiers recovered. Only two of the soldiers treated died. They were buried about a mile west of the depot in a field.

A Community is Born

Along with the depot came expansion.  A small community arose along Main Street. Now considered the historic district, some of the old houses remain. Some buildings have been renovated, with signs identifying the families who once lived there. Others have given themselves to the elements.

Laffitte House (1890 – 1906) – Now serves as offices for Lloyd Baptist Church | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

W.A. Willie House – 1890 | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

J.J. Willie, Jr. House – 1910 | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Laffitte Store – 1912 | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

One of the most noteworthy buildings built at the time was the Whitfield House Hotel at the request of the railroad and served as a dinner stop for train passengers. The Florida Memory Project says for 75 cents, passengers would dine on a full-course meal but had only twenty minutes to eat while mail and express shipments were transferred at the depot.  When dining cars were installed on trains, the dinner stop ceased, but the House remained open until the 1930s as a hotel.  It is no longer standing.

In 1882, the names of the community and the depot were changed to Lloyd in honor of Walter Lloyd, a New Yorker who settled in the area after the Civil War and was instrumental in the recovery of its commercial and agricultural life.

The original depot (as described in the National Register of Historic Places nomination form) was a rectangular brick building with large wooden gables on the east and west ends of the depot, and wide eaves all around. It was built with a wooden cotton platform about 40 feet long. Two large freight doors flanked the west end of the building – one facing the tracks to the south, the other facing to the north.

With the town booming, the depot was refurbished in 1870. Then in the 1940s, much of the building’s wooden features were destroyed in a fire, including the wooden platform.  During the reconstruction, the brick walls, which railroad officials were worried were compromised by the fire, were tied together with steel rods, which can be seen today.

Cotton was not always king.  Watermelon, turpentine, and lumber eventually took the place of cotton after the boll weevil infestation in the 1920s.

The Winds of Change

The express and telegraph offices closed in the 1950s and passenger service continued until 1966 when the station closed.  The Seaboard Coast Line donated the depot to the Jefferson County Historical Society in 1968 and prevented demolition of the building.  The Historical Society then gave the building to the Gulf Wind Chapter of the National Railway Historical Society who has owned it ever since.

We had the pleasure of meeting some of the members during one of their workdays at the depot.  They took time away from their projects to show us around and explain what they’ve already done and what they plan to do.

Gulf Wind members began their preservation efforts in the original two waiting rooms and station master’s office. Those areas have been turned into the town’s post office, which still serves the community.

Lloyd Post Office – still serving the community | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Old Depot Ticket Window – now the window at the post office | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Post Office Boxes – Lloyd | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Work has also been done on the freight room with new electrical and plumbing fixtures being added.  The freight room now houses many artifacts, either from the depot or the railroad industry. One of those is a 1938 Fairmont S2-G which they had restored. “The Pumpkin” as they call it, holds six to eight people and travels at the “high rate of speed” of three miles per hour. Railcars like this were used to dispatch railroad crews down the line to work.

Nicknamed The Pumpkin, 1938 Fairmont S2-G Railcar – Lloyd | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Other artifacts include a safe, an original baggage cart with scale, railroad benches, a chalkboard for marking arrivals and departures, and what Society members consider to be one of the star attractions – the original Lloyd ticket cabinet, which they found in Plant City. A rack inside the cabinet held the tickets. The station master would unlock the cabinet and pull the tickets out for the passengers.

Original Safe – Lloyd | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Baggage Scale – Lloyd | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Old Chalkboard to announce arrivals and departures – Lloyd | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Original Lloyd Ticket Cabinet | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Historic Preservation of the Lloyd Depot Continues

In 1974, the depot was added to the National Register of Historic Places. Chapter members work diligently to uphold the character of the building. Lamps are reproductions of what you would have seen at the time. The mortar they use to shore up the bricks is tempered so it doesn’t destroy the existing old and soft brick.

Chapter members spend many hours working on restoring the bricks of the depot | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Mortar supplies | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

Still there is a lot to be done. The chapter is looking forward to its next projects – stabilizing the southwest corner of the building, replacing the safety railing on the platform, and adding a new door for the side of the freight room facing the railroad tracks.

Pointing out some of the projects to be done: replacing the old freight door and the railing. Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

The old railing at the depot. | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/DorisKeeler

The Gulf Wind Chapter has received some funding from the Florida Division of Historical Resources, fundraising efforts and by holding public events like the Annual Open House.

Although there are no trains that stop at the depot today, you may be lucky enough to catch one of the Florida Gulf and Atlantic current day freights slipping past. Even if you don’t see a train, if you stand by the track and listen closely, you might just hear the “clickety clack” of the old trains that once kept Lloyd a bustling community.

Train track headed east from the depot. | Photo by Floridiana Magazine/Doris Keeler

A special thanks to the Gulf Wind Chapter of the National Railway Historical Society for showing us around.

Enjoy more photos of our visit to the Lloyd Depot in the slideshow below.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

 

High Springs – Friendliest Small Town in Florida

If you’ve ever watched Hallmark Christmas movies, you have no doubt seen the small towns that serve as the settings for the storylines.  Picturesque downtowns, storied pasts, rural lifestyles, and laidback atmospheres.  It is that type of vibe that is exhibited in many of  small Florida towns – including High Springs.  Voted as the “Friendliest Small Town in Florida,” High Springs is the epitome of small-town life, and a stop on one of our latest excursions.

High Springs – A History Built on the Rails  

To put it simply, High Springs is a town that the railroad industry built.  The first railroad company to arrive in High Springs was the Savannah, Florida and Western Railroad in 1884, but it wasn’t until 1895 and the arrival of the Plant System Railroad Line (later called the Atlantic Coast Line) that High Springs became an important railroad center. The Plant System chose High Springs as its division headquarters and the town boomed. Early lines through High Springs connected Live Oak with Gainesville, and then High Springs to Port Tampa.  Railyards, workshops and a roundhouse were built, along with houses and a hospital for the workers who called High Springs home.

Even though most of the railroad buildings have disappeared, you can still catch a glimpse of rail history in High Springs. The original passenger depot, built in 1910, sits along NE Railroad Avenue and is all that remains of what was once a vast railroad complex. Even it is not in its original location. The building was moved to its current location and renovated in 1994, and now serves as the office to the Community Redevelopment Agency.

Another depot serves as the High Springs Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center and can be found along the old railroad bed at Railroad Avenue, one block south of Main Street.  The office is typically open Monday through Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and is a good place to stop for information if you are there during the week.

Still another sign of the railroad industry’s influence on the community is an Atlantic Coast Line red caboose on display behind City Hall.

The town’s standing as a rail center began to fade after World War II when diesel engines took the place of steam locomotives.

An historical marker in High Springs provides a look into the early days in High Springs.  Over the years, the town had several names (Santaffey, Santa Fe, Fairmont and Orion) before it changed for good to High Springs in 1884.  It was incorporated just eight years later.

Gateway to the Springs

In addition to its history with the railroad, High Springs is a destination for outdoor enthusiasts. Situated in the heart of North Florida’s famous spring country, it is within driving distance of numerous springs and state parks and lives up to its motto “Enjoy Our Good Nature!”  A mural of nearby springs can be seen on the exterior of the old Adventure Outpost which once had a storefront in town. Gilchrist Blue Springs State Park, Ichetucknee Springs State Park, Poe Springs Park and Ginnie Springs all provide kayaking and canoeing experiences, as well as hiking opportunities.  Other smaller springs also dot the landscape.

One of our favorite locations is O’Leno State Park, about six miles north of High Springs along the banks of the Santa Fe River. O’Leno is one of Florida’s first state parks, developed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930s. You can still walk across the original suspension bridge built by the CCC to explore other parts of the park.  A hike through the park reveals an historic marker of Bellamy Road which was the first federally funded road in Florida.  You can also view levees and native plants along the trails.  An interesting feature of O’Leno is its distinction of the location where the Santa Fe River disappears underground. The river reemerges about three miles away in the River Rise State Preserve.  It is worth the hike back to where the river ends, both for the novelty and the beauty of the river.

Exploring Downtown

One of the highlights of our trips to High Springs has been the leisurely walks along downtown streets. From the intersection of Main Street and U.S. Highway 27, there are a couple of directions you can start your downtown exploration.  Rest assured, all roads lead to antique stores and specialty shops.

Places to Eat and Drink

As with all small towns, there are always a few eateries you need to visit.  Both of our trips have included meals at the Great Outdoors Restaurant in the old Opera House building. We’ve enjoyed the river ambiance inside during the warmer months and the outdoor patio and fireplace during the cooler months.

On our most recent visit to High Springs, the High Springs Brewing Company had just celebrated its grand opening. Located on NW 237th Street, the brewery is housed in an old welding shop and serves up its own craft beers, as well as other Florida brews.  Live entertainment, special events and a variety of food trucks provide a well-rounded experience, no matter when you go.

Murals

As we’ve traveled the state, we’ve noticed more and more murals popping up. High Springs is no exception. From a tribute to the railroad industry to a mural portraying the area’s springs, these paintings provide another glimpse into the town’s character.

Whether you plan to visit for the history, the shopping, or the outdoor adventures, High Springs is a great place to spend a relaxing day or even weekend.  Located about 20 miles northwest of Gainesville and about five miles west of Interstate 75 on Highway 441, it’s just far enough off the beaten path to offer that down-home vibe and prove why it has earned the title as the “Friendliest Small Town in Florida.”

After you view our slideshow below of more of our photos from our trip, be sure to leave us a comment about your favorite place in High Springs or give us a suggestion of another great Florida town to visit.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Boca Grande – More Than Just Tarpon Capital of the World

For more than 40 years, the Gulf Coast in Charlotte County has been my vacation go-to spot.  Pristine beaches.  Clear water.  Amazing sunsets.  From my favorite beach on Manasota Key, I can easily travel to other towns offering old Florida charm, whether it’s with comparable views or other amenities.  During my recent vacation, I visited Boca Grande, also known as Tarpon Capital of the World – but it is much more than that.

Boca Grande Beginnings – Phosphate and Fishing

Like many Florida towns, the first inhabitants of Boca Grande were the Calusa Indians, a hunting and fishing tribe, who lived on the island from about 900 A.D. to the mid-1700s, when they all but disappeared due to European diseases, slavery and warfare.

Situated on Gasparilla Island, about 100 miles south of Tampa, Boca Grande Pass is one of the deepest natural inlets in Florida.  Its location between Charlotte Harbor and the Gulf of Mexico contributed to its early beginnings in  phosphate and, to this day, fishing.  Tarpon congregate at the Pass because of the depth, with estimates of as many as 10,000 of the fish in the Pass at a time, weighing anywhere from 50 to 200 pounds.

Besides fishing, the discovery of phosphate turned Boca Grande into a deep-water port.  In the late 1800s, phosphate was found along the banks of the Peace River, which enters Charlotte Harbor about 20 miles away. The mineral was placed on barges and taken to Port Boca Grande, where it was placed on ships for worldwide distribution. A wooden cleat the ships once tied to on the docks is on display at the lighthouse museum.  Remnants of the docks can still be seen offshore.

In an effort to provide a more efficient way of getting the phosphate from the river to the ships, a railroad was built and carried phosphate and supplies from 1907 to 1979. In fact, in 1969, Port Boca Grande ranked as the fourth busiest port in Florida.

The railroad also opened the area for wealthy individuals from the north to visit the island. Over the years, visitors to this piece of paradise have included names like Vanderbilt and DuPont.

The end of the railroad came in 1979 after years of dwindling port traffic.  Phosphate companies had switched to ports in Tampa and Manatee County and the industry in Boca Grande came to an end. Today, along what used to be the original railroad right-of-way is a seven-mile bike path.

Gasparilla Island State Park

At the southern tip of Gasparilla Island is the Gasparilla Island State Park. Getting into the park will cost you $3.00 per car, but it’s a small price to pay for the beauty and peace of the beach.  Pristine waters, a wide swath of white sand, and views of pelicans, manatees and fish jumping provide a true Florida experience.

Sea Oats, protected by law, aid in the prevention of beach erosion

Pelicans at rest

Manatee swimming offshore

Port Boca Grande Lighthouse and Museum

The Port Boca Grande Lighthouse, the centerpiece of the park, is the oldest structure on the island, guiding mariners since 1890. The lighthouse is a one-story structure with a tower protruding from the top of the roof.  A second, nearly identical building sits next to the lighthouse and once served as the living quarters for the assistant keeper. The lighthouse was donated by the Federal Government to Lee County in 1972, then placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. The lighthouse, fully restored in 1985-86, is visible up to 12 miles away when lit.  A museum and gift shop make up the interior of the lighthouse, but make sure to check out the hours before you go as they vary with the seasons.

Port Boca Grande Lighthouse and Assistant Keeper’s Living Quarters

Gasparilla Island Lighthouse

Besides the lighthouse at the Park, there is a second lighthouse on the island, the Gasparilla Island Lighthouse. This lighthouse was built in Lewes, Delaware in 1888 and was moved and reconstructed in its present location in 1927.  It was first lit in 1932 and flashed every six seconds during evening hours. Like the Boca Grande Lighthouse, it played a critical role in guiding phosphate ships into port.  After decades of decline, the lighthouse was restored in 2018 and opened for climbs.  The structure is 105 feet tall, with 134 steps up a black metal spiral staircase.  It’s said to offer the best view in town, and when climbs start again in October, you can bet we will be there to make the climb and see for ourselves.

Taken during a visit to the island in 2015, prior to restoration

Post restoration

Other Things to See in Boca Grande

While a visit to the park, the beach and the lighthouses is enough to fill a day, there are other things to see and do while in Boca Grande.  The Gasparilla Inn is a cornerstone of the community. Built in 1912, it provided lodging for wealthy northerners coming to Florida during the time when the state became a travel and vacation destination.  Over the years, guests have included Henry Ford, Thomas Edison, and President George H.W. Bush. The Inn was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places on March 18, 2008. Even if you don’t stay there, you can visit and view the grand splendor of the hotel and its property.

A leisurely drive through town reveals a quaint shopping district.  In what was at one time the railroad depot, there are now a number of shops, offices and The Loose Caboose Restaurant.  Other historic buildings, including churches, also add to the charm of this island.

St. Andrews Episcopal Church

First Baptist Church of Boca Grande

Getting to Boca Grande

There are numerous ways to get to the island, depending on where you begin.  Once you actually get to the entrance to the island, there is a $6.00 charge per car to get onto the island.

While Boca Grande shares some of the same characteristics of other Florida coastal towns, it is quieter, more laid back, and less crowded.  Spend a day or spend a week, Boca Grande is one of those locations that offers a true Florida experience.  Sun, sand, surf, or shops – there’s something for about everyone.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Mount Dora: Someplace Special

Mount Dora. It’s one of those charming towns in Florida you can’t help but visit time and again.  With an historic downtown, plenty of activities on the lake, and numerous festivals throughout the year, there is something for just about anyone.  Visitors see it as a destination, a place on the map to experience, but for those who live here or even in neighboring communities, Mount Dora is, as the sign says, someplace special.

History of Mount Dora

As is the case for many Florida towns, Mount Dora didn’t start off as Mount Dora.  In fact, its first official name came in 1880, Royellou, after the three children of the postmaster at the time, R.C. Tremain. (His children were Roy, Ella and Louis.)  That name didn’t last long, as three years later the town was renamed Mount Dora, for Dora Ann Drawdy, who along with her husband, were some of the early homesteaders.

Getting to Mount Dora was difficult early on, with travel limited to steamboats or rowboats via the St. Johns River to Mellonville on Lake Monroe, and to complete the trip, travelers had to take a wagon train. After the railroad service began in 1887, travel was easier, and the population grew.

Incorporated in 1921, Mount Dora elected its first mayor, John P. Donnelly, who came to the area in 1879.  He and his wife would eventually own most of what is now downtown Mount Dora as well as most of the waterfront.  However, they also donated land to churches, the fire department and for other community improvements.  Donnelly was also considered the “Father of the Tangerine” for his work developing the local citrus industry.

Mount Dora Today

You won’t be able to see all of Mount Dora without traveling down Donnelly Street, the main road through town.  From the historic buildings, to the quaint little shops, there is plenty to see in whatever direction you choose to take.

Firehouse and Old City Jail – The firehouse was built 1923 on land deeded by J.P. Donnelly and housed the town’s firefighting apparatus. A fire siren on the roof not only sounded when there was a fire, but also every day at noon. An addition was made to the back of the firehouse of five jail cells and a bathroom to accommodate the locals who found themselves in need of “care” during these days of Prohibition.  More cells were added to the front once the new firehouse was built in 1941 and it continued as the jail until 1969.  The building now houses the Mount Dora History Museum and is open from 1:00 p.m. until 4:00 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

The Train Depot was built in 1915 and initially operated two trains a day, in each direction.  That increased to four trains a day in 1922, including mail, freight and passenger trains.  Service to Mount Dora was discontinued in 1950. The depot is now home to the Chamber of Commerce and offers banquet and special event space.

Donnelly House – Located at 535 N. Donnelly Street, this Victorian charmer was built in 1893 by John P. Donnelly as a gift for his wife Annie. The yellow and white house was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1975 for its architectural and historical significance.  It now serves as the Masonic Temple.

Lakeside Inn is one of the most historically significant buildings in Mount Dora as it is one of only five Florida lodges named “A Historic Hotel of America” by the Trust for Historic Preservation and is also listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  Built between 1882 and 1883 as the Alexander House, Lakeside Inn was only open in the winter and was comprised of two stories with ten rooms.  In the 1920s and 30s, the Inn was the site of most of the social functions of the town, including a visit by President Calvin Coolidge in 1930.  After numerous ownership and name changes, and a multi-million-dollar restoration, Lakeside Inn now houses 87 rooms and is considered a full-service luxury hotel, with great views of Lake Dora.

Mount Dora Lighthouse – A trip to Mount Dora isn’t complete without a visit to the lighthouse on Grantham Point.  Don’t go expecting to climb another Florida lighthouse though.  The red and white striped Mount Dora Lighthouse is only 35-foot tall and is the only inland freshwater lighthouse in the state. It uses a 750-watt photocell to power a blue pulsator to guide boaters into the Port of Mount Dora after dusk.

Shops and Restaurants – Specialty shops and boutiques line the streets of downtown Mount Dora, each one unique.  A bookstore with spines of classic books painted on the awning, a quaint courtyard with little shops lining the walkway, and the list goes on.  You can spend a day just walking in and out of the shops!

According to the Chamber of Commerce, there are 25 restaurants and cafes in Mount Dora, from those requiring reservations to those offering quick respites from the sightseeing.  Our favorite was (and still is) the Frog and Monkey Pub, located in the Renaissance Building. Billed as the only underground pub in Lake County, the bar tender tells us stories about a ghost seen in the kitchen and caught on camera.  A great story, considering names on some of the doors in the pub include “Morgue” and “Autopsy Room.”  Ghosts aside, the other spirits and food were divine.  My favorite, by the way, is the Blue Lemosa.

Events

Mount Dora is often referred to as the Festival City, offering events year-round, including annual events like Freedom on the Waterfront  or the Open-Air Farmer’s Market every Sunday, which was in full-swing during our visits.  Of course, you don’t have to go at a time when there’s a festival to have fun.

See our post of the Mount Dora Arts Festival here.

Getting Around Town

Walking is the best way to get around town and is made easier with an ample amount of free parking available.  For the more adventurous, Segway tours are available.  These one-hour tours take you along the waterfront, around to the lighthouse, through Palm Island Park and then through some of the area’s historic neighborhoods.

Mount Dora is located 45 minutes northwest of downtown Orlando, and is easily accessible from U.S.  441. Whether you are browsing for antiques, shopping in the quaint little stores or taking in some of the historic locations, take your time, take it all in, and plan your next visit, because Mount Dora is truly someplace special.

To see more of our photos from our recent visits to Mount Dora, please watch our slideshow below.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

What to Do in Lake Wales, Florida

Known as the Crown Jewel of the Ridge, Lake Wales sits in the center of the state, just off Highway 27 and State Road 60. With its historic roots, its quirky qualities, and its persona of a small city with a hometown atmosphere, Lake Wales is a true Floridiana find.  Whether you are taking a trip into downtown, visiting the tower on the hill, or participating in any number of festivals and celebrations, nostalgia and culture abound.

Lake Wales History

Lake Wales was first settled in 1911 by a group of businessmen known as the Lake Wales Land Company.  These individuals purchased 5,000 acres around Lake Wailes, named after land agent Sidney Wailes. The Lake Wales Land Company saw the property as ripe for a turpentine and lumber industry, as well as growing citrus crops.

Lake Wailes

By the time Lake Wales was incorporated in 1917, it was already on its way to becoming a thriving town, with a school, some paved roads, and a newspaper.

Part of the charm of Lake Wales is its downtown area which is recognized as a National Historic District.  A walk around town reveals evidence of the old charm. Informational signs are strategically located to provide information about the area and the numerous buildings restored to the splendor of the 1920s and 30s.

City of Murals

Another way to enjoy the history of Lake Wales is through the 21 murals scattered throughout downtown.  The earliest mural was painted in 1942 and hangs inside the lobby of the Post Office on West Park Avenue.  Harvest Time Lake Wales measures 14 feet by 5 feet and depicts the area’s citrus industry.  A second indoor mural is at the Lake Wales Public Library and portrays animals that are native to the area in their natural environment.  The library mural was painted by Tom Freeman, who also painted many of the other murals around town.  Freeman, a former teacher, is also the subject of a mural funded and painted by his students.

Tom Freeman Recognition Mural

Another local artist, Lisa Moore, has not only painted some of the murals, but was also commissioned to do restoration work on some of the older murals around town.  On one of our visits, we found Lisa working on the Downtown City Mural on East Stuart Avenue.

The Lake Wales murals are part of a statewide trail that connects mural towns with mural enthusiasts. A map of the murals’ locations, as well as descriptions about them can be found at the Lake Wales Mural website.

Lake Wales Museum

Like other old train depots around Florida, the Atlantic Coast Line Depot has been transformed into the Lake Wales Museum.  The museum offers a look back at the history of Lake Wales.  Starting with its inception in 1911, exhibits depict the people, places and events that have shaped the town. Take a step back in time and learn about the history of the railroad, the turpentine industry and the postal service. There are also special exhibits that are set up throughout the year.  Before you leave the museum, make sure to head outside and tour a refurbished Seaboard caboose.

Other Things to See and Do in Lake Wales

Bok Tower and Gardens

You can’t visit Lake Wales without making a trip to Bok Tower and Gardens, located atop Iron Mountain.  Founded by Edward W. Bok, the gardens opened to the public in 1929 and now features nearly 50 acres of lush gardens filled with palms, ferns, oaks and other trees. Seasonal plants also provide splashes of color to the grounds.

The centerpiece to the gardens is the 205-foot Bok Tower.  Known as the Singing Tower, it houses one of the finest carillons anywhere in the world. With 60 bells, the tower rings out with concerts every day at 1:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m.

Also, on property is the Pinewood Estate, a 20-room mansion built in the early 1930s. The estate is open for tours, but make sure to check the website for blackout dates before you plan your trip.

Spook Hill

Do cars really roll uphill?  That’s for you to decide when you visit Spook Hill in Lake Wales.

If you want to know more about Spook Hill, click here.  Or even better, drive to Spook Hill, park your car on the white line, put it into neutral, and see what happens!

How to find it: From U.S. 27, take State Road 60 west to Alternate U.S. 27, north past Central Avenue, then east at first traffic light (North Avenue). Then turn left on one-way street to Spook Hill.

Struthers’ Honey

Struthers’ Honey is one of those places you have to visit.  Situated about 15 minutes east of Highway 27 along Highway 60, this honey store operates on the honor system.  That’s right.  There is usually no one inside to take your money.  Only shelves full of honey and honey-based products, and a cash box.  If you are lucky, you will be there when one of the family members stops by to replenish the shelves.  Struthers’ Honey opened for business in 1935 and may be the oldest honey store in Florida working off the honor system.

Orange Blossom Revue

Towns across Florida are known for their festivals and events.  In Lake Wales, the Orange Blossom Revue is one of those.  The event got its name from the impact of the citrus industry in Central Florida.  Held in early December every year, the Revue hosts barbeque competitions, regional musicians, arts and crafts, and craft beer featuring Florida breweries.  The weekend is full of fun activities for everyone, not just the locals.

Lake Wales Mardi Gras

Who would think a Mardi Gras celebration would be held in a small city like Lake Wales?  In 1984, the celebration began in Lake Wales in memory of Vinton Davis who owned Vinton’s New Orleans Restaurant.  Davis is said to have loved carnivals, especially Mardi Gras in New Orleans.  The Lake Wales Mardi Gras celebration is usually held the first weekend of March.  What’s billed as “A Festival for Florida” features live music, a parade, a 5k run and plenty of fun for the entire family.

There doesn’t have to be an event to visit Lake Wales.  This small city with a hometown atmosphere offers many opportunities to learn about its history, get a taste of some of its culture, or enjoy its natural beauty.

Lake Wales is located about 54 miles southwest of Orlando off U.S. 27 and Highway 60.  Please watch our slide show for more pictures from our trips to Lake Wales.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.