Floridiana Magazine

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Faces of Florida: Herman Wells, Furniture Maker

Update:  Herman Wells passed away in August 2024.  He will be remembered as a kind, old soul and is truly missed.

On a recent visit to Cedar Key, we stopped by the Wells Wood shop on 5th Street.  Although Mr. Wells was busy at the time, he stopped what he was doing and with true, old Florida hospitality invited us to sit down for a while.  What was intended to be a short visit turned into an hour-long conversation. Over the course of our visit, Mr. Wells talked about his shop, his late wife, and his late long-time canine companion. He told us how he used to be a commercial fisherman and boat builder, and about the way things used to be in Cedar Key.  Mr. Wells pulled out his phone and showed us a photo of one of the boats he built, along with a video of himself playing the guitar and singing. I’m sure if one of his four guitars had been in his shop, he would have pulled it out and played for us.

Herman Wells, Furniture Maker | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

One of the boats Mr. Wells built | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Wells Wood Shop

At 79, Herman Wells starts every day by 6:00 a.m.  He doesn’t have far to go to get to work since he lives in a small house behind his shop. For decades, Mr. Wells has been making this same morning trek to the wood shop.  When he was growing up, this building was the church he attended and where his father, a preacher, would hold Sunday services when the regular pastor was unable to stand in the pulpit.

Wells Wood shop on 5th Street | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Wells Wood Shop | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Pulpit | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Although the pulpit is still there, the inside has been transformed into a wood worker’s dream.  A large shop fan sits by the open side doors, offering a little relief to the hot Florida temperatures. Inside, a vast assortment of wood working machinery and tools, along with stacks of cedar stand at the ready for Mr. Wells’ creations.  Most days he can be found here sawing, routing, drilling and assembling.  Mr. Wells says his furniture, consisting of Adironack-style chairs, gliders, tables and slatted chairs are located in every state, and as far away as Holland.

Shop fan keeps things as cool as it can | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

One of many woodworking tools | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Assorted tools | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Stacks of wood | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Mr. Wells taught himself how to build furniture, starting first with plans but then modifying them to his liking.  Although he doesn’t work as quickly as he once did, he tells us he can still have two Adirondack-style chairs cut out and ready for assembly by noon.

Wood, wood and more wood | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Stack of finished chairs | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Finished table | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Besides the wood shop, Mr. Wells also has a sawmill on ten acres outside of town. He traded two lots in town for the property where the logs used in his shop are run through the cutting process and sliced into planks.

Wells Wood Sawmill | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Wells Wood Sawmill | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Mr. Wells has become somewhat of a celebrity in town after numerous articles have been published about his furniture making.  He wasn’t born in Cedar Key, but he was raised here.  He says he remembers a time when there were only about 100 people living on the island.  Although there were just over 700 living in Cedar Key in 2019, it is a popular spot for tourists.  Mr. Wells recounts how signs of the old Cedar Key are fading.  A large aluminum dock has replaced the old wood dock.  Street names have changed.  New condos and larger stilt homes have taken the place of some of the older structures in town.

Changing times | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Even with the changes, Mr. Wells loves the Cedar Key life and his celebrity. He tells us how visitors to his shop always take pictures of him standing in the front doorway.  Of course, we had to get that photo as well.

Herman Wells and one of his chairs | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Wells Wood Contact Information

If you are ever in Cedar Key, make sure to stop and see Mr. Wells.

709 NW 5th Street

(352) 477-0160

Enjoy a few more of our photos from our visit with Mr. Wells.

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Faces of Florida Nominations

Visiting with Mr. Wells was a treat, and I’m sure there are many other Floridians like him with great stories and experiences to share.  If you know of someone we can profile in our Faces of Florida, please send an email to floridianamag@gmail.com nominating him or her.  Please include the following:

  • Individual’s name
  • Place of residence (town or county)
  • Story background
  • Why their story represents old Florida

We look forward to your nominations.

 

Albritton Fruit Company, One Family’s Legacy

Growing up in a rural community in the 70s, I saw first-hand the important role citrus and farming played in the lives of many of those living there.  But it wasn’t just about the fruit, it was about family.  Groves and farms were passed down from one generation to the next, instilling a sense of pride and family values.  Although there are half as many acres of citrus now as there were then, there are still some who are carrying on their family legacy.

One such family is the Albritton family of Sarasota.

The Past

The Albritton Fruit Company was founded in 1880 in Polk County by Civil War veteran Tom Albritton and is now considered the oldest continually operating family business in Florida. After a devastating freeze, the family moved to Sarasota, where Karl Benjamin Albritton, Tom’s grandson, carried on the family business. Karl did not graduate from high school but was accepted into the University of Florida because of his knowledge about the citrus industry.  After attending classes from 1921 – 1923, Albritton returned to the family farm.  He is credited with developing the first citrus hedging machine, along other tools and procedures. Karl was inducted into the Florida Agriculture Hall of Fame and the Florida Citrus Hall of Fame in the early to mid-1990s for his impact on the state’s citrus industry.

The Present

Sarah and John Albritton, Courtesy of Tanna Carter Photography

Karl’s great-grandson John and his wife Sarah are the sixth generation to work the family business.  On a recent Saturday, we visited the family groves where the last of the Honeybell* oranges were being picked.  We watched as the fruit was picked from the trees in a grove was planted about 30 years ago by John’s grandfather.  It’s done old-school, much like I used to see in the groves behind my childhood home.  Workers climbed ladders and hand-picked only the ripened fruit, dropped it into a bag, and later into a nearby tub.  This spot-picking meant only the fruit ripe enough was picked, while the rest remained on the trees until they were ready.

While we walked the grove, the couple’s two boys, Larit (3 ½) and Layton (6 ½), helped pick a few oranges.  They are right at home in the grove, using the proper technique to twist the oranges off the branches without tearing into the skin.  If they went a little too fast, a simple reminder from their mother to “slow your roll” was all it took to get them back on track.

If the boys follow in their father’s footsteps, they will be the seventh generation to carry on the family business.  Something John and Sarah would like to see happen.

“It’s what I’m going to do,” John says, “see if I can raise these boys and pass it on to them.”

Sarah agrees. “We’re still trying to instill the family values and the family farming in our children.  It’s been very important to John and me to make sure our boys are aware of our family history and that the tradition carries on.”

The Future

While family traditions continue, the farming business is seeing a change.  Citrus greening is taking its toll on some growers.  For the Albrittons, that has prompted them to look at other crops.

“My husband was very adamant he wanted to make sure there was something left for his kids.  Blueberries are our baby.”

Albritton Fruit Farms was born.

John Albritton walks along the blueberry field.

There is now a 25-acre blueberry field where orange trees once grew.  Planted in 2015, there are 60,000 plants of three different varieties.  The blueberries are already turning a profit, with last year’s harvest pulling in 100,000 pounds of blueberries.  Following commercial harvest, John and Sarah open up their fields for u-pick season, typically from March until early June.  It’s a family affair.  The boys join their parents in the field every weekend with Larit instructing pickers which ones are the best and how to pick them. Larit admits his favorite blueberry variety is the Jewel, because it tastes like strawberries!

What is next for the Albrittons?  More blueberries?  Resetting the citrus groves?  Only time will tell.  The couple does acknowledge they have the last big piece of property on Clark Road.  Long-time residents across the road recently sold out and 6,900 homes and a commercial development are going in.

Regardless of what happens in the future, it is certain the Albritton family will always be remembered for the major role they played in the history of Florida’s citrus industry.

 FM Notes

*Honeybell oranges are hybrids of a tangerine and grapefruit, with January being the peak month for ripening.  They have a mixed sweet-sour taste and, in my own opinion, are the juiciest (and best-tasting) I’ve ever had.

Don’t miss the u-pick season.  Keep up with the latest dates on their Facebook page here.

 

Hops – A New Florida Crop

Move over oranges, there’s a new crop in town!  Chalk it up to the popularity of craft beer and the number of craft breweries popping up around the state, interest is now brewing over a viable new crop in Florida – hops.

What are Hops?

Hops are one of the four main staples of beer, along with water, yeast, and barley. For craft beer drinkers, you might know that hops are responsible for the bitterness, flavor and aroma of the beer.

Wop’s Hops in Sanford is just one of the Florida breweries using hops from Central Florida Hops in its brewing process.

If you happen to pass a hops field, you may just do a double-take.  At first glance, the plants create the illusion of a lush green wall.  Growing 16 to 20 feet long, these green vines reach upward, guided by wires strung along poles. The flowers on the plants are the hops that are used in the brewing process.

But do you know how those hops get into that brew?  After they are picked off the vines, they can be used in three ways.  First, as wet hops by local brewers. If used this way, they have to be brewed within a day or two of being picked.  Another use is as a dried whole-cone hop.  These hops are harvested and dried out.  The final involves crushing the flowers and pressing them into pellets where they can be stored for a long time.  This method is the most user-friendly and widely used because of commercial availability.  Each method causes subtle differences in the brewing process and the end result.  The opportunity to use fresh hops is creating excitement among the craft brewers who are always looking to brew something just a little bit different.

Hops in Florida

Up until the last few years in the United States, hops fields were mostly found in the Pacific Northwest.  Now, they are sprouting up here in our state.  Estimates are there are as many as 10 to 15 hops farms in Florida, with the largest currently covering two and a half acres.

Central Florida Hops

Recently, we visited Central Florida Hops in Zellwood. Co-owner Matt Roberts showed us the field located next to Central Florida Ferns where he and his partners Kyle Barrett and Logan Vandermaas are all employed.  He said an interest in local craft beer and a desire to do something different led to the new venture.

“The more we researched hops,” he said, “the more we thought this might be doable. It was a challenge for us.  A challenge to be able to provide places we enjoy going to with hops.  That kind of sealed the deal for us.  And the local breweries love the idea of using a local ingredient.”

Our visit happened in January which coincided with the second harvest of the year for Central Florida Hops. Plenty of flowers remained on the vines, although the field had thinned out some due to local breweries and home brewers visiting the field the past week and picking hops for their use.  Because it’s never occurred before, a second harvest of hops within a calendar year might just be the innovation that makes hops growing commercially viable in Florida.

Matt agrees and expects that once the market expands, more growers will join in.

“The craft beer scene is what we have to lean on right now and it’s as popular as it’s ever been.  You really don’t realize how many hops these brewers use.  We can’t touch what they need and probably will never be able to.”

The popularity of craft breweries has led to brew tours.

Hops Research in Florida

Because hops growing is relatively new in Florida, it is still a learning process.  Data is limited, expectations are unknown.  A lot of what is done is simply trial and error.  However, there is some help on the horizon.  The Apopka branch of the University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) was awarded a two-year, $194,000 grant to see which hops varieties will grow in the state. Researchers have already determined Florida days are too short and a hops variety that doesn’t need as much sunlight may be the answer.  (In the Pacific Northwest, plants get 15 to 16 hours of daylight during the spring.)

At Central Florida Hops, light interruption from strategically placed light poles worked around that challenge.  The lights were turned on at midnight and ran for about an hour and a half.  Matt says the idea was to trick the plants into thinking it was a shorter night rather than a longer day.  It was an experiment, and some of the plants, like Cascade, reacted very well.

The Florida Difference

Whether it is Cascade or Triple Pearl or Tahoma, hops take on the characteristic of the soil, also known as terroir.  These same environmental conditions affect the taste of wine.  What is grown in Florida will taste, smell, and act much differently than that grown in other states.  Central Florida Hops planted its field on what was once an orange grove.  Brewers who’ve used the Cascade from here say there is a more citrus note to the hops.

The Spring Harvest and Beyond

With the initial success in growing their first crop (and second), coupled with the enthusiastic reception by Florida brewers, Central Florida Hops is currently preparing for the spring harvest.  The hops plants are the same from crop to crop, but after harvest they are cut off at the base, forcing all new growth.  Once the vines grow long enough, they are restrung on the wire supports – which should happen in March for the June harvest.  In addition, there are thoughts of expanding from the current quarter of an acre to half an acre. Central Florida Hops looks forward to the increasing excitement of local Florida brewers and coaching them on the use of fresh hops.  So be on the look out for Florida hops in the field and in Florida craft brews.

Matt admits year two will be interesting, but says with hops the sky is the limits.

 

Trapper Nelson’s Zoo and Jungle Gardens

If you’ve been following along with our adventures, you know that many of them take us off the beaten path. Well, recently that changed. Instead of a path, it was a river. The destination?  An old tourist attraction even Tarzan would appreciate.

Trapper Nelson Interpretive Site

Three miles down the Loxahatchee River, where it meanders through the Jonathan Dickinson State Park in Hobe Sound, is Trapper Nelson’s Zoo and Jungle Garden, or what is left of it. The site is accessible only by canoe, boat or by tour boat.  On the day of our visit, we chose the tour boat, the Loxahatchee Queen III, piloted that day by Captain Dan.  The slow excursion offered views of tropical vegetation and wildlife – manatees lazily gliding through the water, an eagle soaring above, an osprey perched in a dead tree and an alligator hiding along the shore line.    

Osprey
Alligator 

Damsel Fly hitchhiking on the Loxahatchee Queen III

As our tour boat turned around near Trapper’s camp, we were dropped off near the original boat dock built by Nelson. Stepping off the boat, a park staff member greeted us and took us on a walking tour of Nelson’s camp. The hand-built Chickee hut, a water tower and Trapper’s cabin still stand. Inside the cabin, a museum of sorts is set up to portray Trapper’s life and his eccentricities. Photos of his early life on the river, his military career, and other memorabilia are on display for present-day visitors to see. A framed photo of coins found by park rangers during restoration supports the tales that Trapper was known for hiding money around his property. In 1984, more than 5,000 coins worth about $1,800 were discovered when mortar was pulled away near his fireplace.

Original boat dock built by Trapper Nelson
Huts
Water Tower 
One of two cabins on site
Memorabilia on display inside the cabin
Faded photo of coins found during camp restoration

Woodpiles still stand, a testament to the amount of wood Trapper would chop for himself.  A guest cabin that once welcomed visitors to the camp, is relatively bare, stripped clean by vandals following Nelson’s death. Many of the cages Nelson built to house the animals are still on the property.  Signs on the cages indicate what was once there – alligators, wildcats, and raccoons.

Wood pile 
The zoo 
Nelson’s Jeep on display

History of Trapper Nelson’s Zoo and Jungle Garden 

Trapper Nelson (aka Vincent Natulkiewicz) made his way to the area from New Jersey, accompanied by his brother Charlie and a friend, first heading west to Colorado by way of boxcars, and then to Mexico. It was there where Trapper was detained by Mexican officials on suspicion of gun-running.  His brother and friend were not captured.  Several weeks later, and with no real evidence against him, Nelson was released.  His next venture west to California proved to be unsuccessful and after a few weeks, he decided to return to New Jersey to meet up with his brother and friend.  It didn’t take long for the trio to decide to head south, eventually ending up in Jupiter.

Upon his arrival in 1931, he settled into a temporary hunting camp near the Jupiter Inlet, where he lived off the land, trapping animals and selling their hides. However, development meant less game, so in 1933 Nelson traveled up the Loxahatchee in a rowboat and set up his homestead where it is today.  Nelson continued to live off the land and would row nine miles to Jupiter to pick up his mail, buy supplies and sell his wares.  Although Nelson was considered a loner, as people learned of his camp, he became known as the “Wildman of the Loxahatchee.” It is said he could be seen jumping from a rope swing into the river.

Trapper Nelson with one of his alligators. 
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Dickinson State Park

In the mid-1940s, Nelson turned his property into a wildlife zoo.  For the next 15 years or so, visitors from around the world came to see him wrestle alligators and wrap himself up in snakes. Folks who visited the site could stay in one of his cabins, buy souvenirs or rent rowboats, and of course, get a close up look at the many animals he had trapped.  Nelson used a lot of his profits buying up land at tax sales.  In all, he purchased nearly 1,000 acres along the river. 

Trapper chose to close his attraction to tourists in the early 1960s, citing his distrust of people, and ongoing rules and regulations by the state to keep it open.  A sign still hangs on one of the trees over the river warning people to keep out.  It is rumored that he would take shots at people who ventured too close.

The words are no longer visible, but what appear to be bullet holes remain

Little was heard from Trapper Nelson from the time he closed his zoo until he was found shot to death in 1968, his shotgun beside him.  Authorities ruled his death a suicide, although there are still some folks who believe he was a victim of foul play.

During his life, Nelson was actively engaged in efforts to preserve the Loxahatchee River and protect his land. After his death, his estate was sold to a developer, but a land swap with the Florida Park Service made it part of Jonathan Dickinson State Park, where it has been preserved and protected.

Hours 

Trapper’s is open 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., 7 days a week,although the schedule may vary throughout the year.  If you are going specifically for the tour,call at 561-746-1466 or visit their website.  In addition to the cost of park admission, the ride on the Loxahatchee Queen III is $24 for adults, $14 for children 3 – 12, and free for children under 3.

FM Notes:  While researching for this article, I came across the book “Life and Death on the Loxahatchee: The Story of Trapper Nelson” by James D. Snyder.  The book includes interviews with Nelson’s surviving family members, along with photos from Nelson’s scrapbook found at the bottom of a file cabinet in the Park Service, and transcribed letters from Trapper Nelson to his family from 1951-1968. The latest printing was 2007 and is a must-read for those interested in Trapper Nelson’s story.

Nelson planted a variety of tropical fruit and vegetation 
Bamboo 

 

Caladium Festival Lake Placid, Florida

Florida is home to many festivals, ranging from the absurd to the logical.  By definition, festivals celebrate something unique about a community or its culture.  For the central Florida town of Lake Placid, that uniqueness is its designation as “Caladium Capital of the World” and 2018 marked its celebration of the 28th Caladium Festival.

History of the Caladium Festival

The idea for the Caladium Festival came from the Highlands County Tourist Development Commission as a way to promote the industry and, at the same time, create an event to bring visitors into town.  With the help of Carolyn Phypers of Happiness Farms and Dot Bates of Bates Sons and Daughters Caladiums, the first festival was held in 1990 at the warehouse at Happiness Farms.  Small in scale and mostly informational, it involved a steak dinner cooked by the Highlands County Cattlemen and served by the Cattlewomen, industry talk by caladium growers, and bus tours to the fields.

After that first festival, Carolyn, Dot and their families expanded on the event by moving it downtown to Stuart Park and added in arts and crafts, entertainment and food vendors.  From its first year with about 100 visitors, the event has grown to tens of thousands.

The Caladium Festival Today

Happiness Farms and Bates Sons and Daughters both continue to play a major role in the Caladium Festival.  Bates sells potted plants, while Happiness offers up bags or boxes of bulbs.  What once sold out on the second day of the festival is now selling out on day one.  Folks have found out if they come early, they are sure they get their preferred plants. Both growers donate their net proceeds to the Lake Placid Chamber of Commerce to continue funding the festival.

Bus Tours of Caladium Fields

To get an up-close view of the caladium fields, bus tours are offered at regular intervals throughout the festival. (We might also add the buses are air-conditioned!)  The tours, led by local growers, offer up a lively discussion of the industry as well as question and answer sessions on a wide range of topics.  Out the bus windows, rows upon rows, acres upon acres, showcase a kaleidoscope of colors.

 

After a drive by the fields, the bus makes a stop in one of Lake Placid’s neighborhoods to see a home landscaped with caladiums.  At one time, entire neighborhoods would get involved with planting caladiums.  They were given the bulbs free of charge if they would plant them in time for the festival. These plants, with their heart-shaped leaves and vibrant colors, are easy to grow and brighten any yard.

 

These bus tours are very popular and certain times often sell out, so visitors are advised to buy tickets in advance of the show to secure a seat.

While the caladiums are the stars of the show, there is so much more to the Caladium Festival.  A walk along Interlake Boulevard or any of the side streets surrounding Stuart Park provides a glimpse at booths featuring arts and crafts, plants, and other specialty items.  In addition, there is also a variety of food vendors and entertainment acts.

Clowns

In a community known for its clown college, it’s also a given that Toby’s Clowns will be on hand to offer up their skills of face painting and balloon artistry, and at the same time, a lot of smiles to kids of all ages.

Car Show

For those who are interested in cars and motorcycles, the Caladium Car and Bike Show is a must see.  Billed as the largest auto show in Lake Placid, De Vane Park turns into an outdoor showroom for new and old cars and bikes.  A walk up and down the rows can reveal some pretty cool cars and a link to the past.

Town of Murals

Caladiums are also the topic of one of the many murals around Lake Placid since they play such an important part of the town’s history.  Nearly 50 murals in all are painted on the sides of buildings around town, each one depicting something different about Lake Placid, its culture or some of its prominent citizens.

(To read more about the murals of Lake Placid, check out our post “Town of Murals: Lake Placid, Florida.”)

Other Places to See

Visitors wanting to get out of the sun have a number of places they can visit, like the Lake Placid Chamber of Commerce on Oak Avenue.  The Chamber has a lot of information about Lake Placid, along with the original prints of the murals.  The Lake Placid Mural Society is also housed in the chamber building.  Along Interlake Boulevard, one of the most popular locations is the Caladium Arts and Crafts Cooperative, which features unique items made by local artists and crafters.  Spread out over 10,000 square feet, everything from original paintings to quilts to year-round Christmas collectibles can be found here.  Yes, there are caladium themed items as well.  Main Street also has a lot of interesting shops and restaurants as well.

29th Annual Caladium Festival

If you missed this year’s festival, make sure to mark your calendars for the 2019 festival on July 26, 27, and 28, but don’t wait until then to visit this gem of a town.  Take a day, spend time taking in the murals, then head over to Henscratch Farms and Sugar Sand Distillery.  It’s a Florida trip definitely worth taking.

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The Florida Highwaymen

Growing up in a home filled with paintings and paint supplies provided me with a deeper understanding and appreciation for art.  Canvases lined our back room.  Some were framed and finished.  Some were not.  Those paintings stood waiting for that one extra paint stroke to be added to a tree, a river, or a deer. I didn’t realize it at the time, but one of those paintings was done with the instruction of Robert Butler, a Florida Highwayman, at a day-long class that my mom, Nancy, took in 1990.

Painting by Nancy Collins (Mom) under the instruction of Robert Butler

Signature, Instructor Robert Butler, 1990

Mom remembers the painting class from 28 years ago at a local art studio like it was yesterday. “He painted from his head,” she says, “from memory of things he had seen.  He taught me a lot about painting Florida landscapes.”

Butler passed away in 2014, and like other Florida Highwaymen, left an indelible mark on many artists and art lovers.

The Highwaymen – Then

Although they did not acquire the name “The Highwaymen” until years later, the group consisted of 25 men and one woman, all African-American, who painted Florida landscapes from the mid-1950s through the mid-1980s.

Inspiration for these artists initially came from A.E. “Bean” Backus, a popular landscape artist at the time.  One of the founders of the Highwaymen, Alfred Hair, met Backus during a school field trip to his studio, went to work for him building canvases, and learned to paint. Hair took Backus’ techniques and tweaked them to meet his own needs of making money in a short period of time.

Carports, sheds and backyards in the Fort Pierce area served as painting studios.  Upson board, a popular building material at the time, and oil-based paint were the supplies of choice.  At a time when segregation was the norm, galleries would not accept their paintings, so the artists sold out of their trunks along Florida highways – mostly on A1A and U.S. 1 from Daytona Beach to Miami – and door-to-door to motels, doctors’ offices, banks, real estate offices and other businesses.  The paintings brought in about $20 each and provided an alternative to working minimum wage jobs or picking citrus.

Highwaymen paintings all exhibit the same characteristics: Florida the way it was before development took over.  Vibrant red Poinciana trees, moss hanging from cypress trees, and palm trees swaying in the breeze of a calm summer day or blowing during a raging Florida storm are the subjects of many of the paintings.  So too, are sunrises and sunsets, marshlands and native Florida wildlife.

The Highwaymen – Now

Of the original 26 Highwaymen, only half are still living, some of them still appearing at events around the state.  At a recent Meet and Greet at the Orange County Regional History Center, six of the original artists displayed and sold their paintings, posed for photographs and signed autographs.

Al Black

Al Black and Doris Keeler (Writer/Blogger)

Al Black, 71, was the original “salesman” for Alfred Hair.  In the early days, Black did not want to paint – he wanted to sell, and that’s what he did.   He loaded Hair’s paintings up in his car, often wet, and went on the road to sell them.  Because the paintings were wet, they were sometimes damaged in the trunk and Black would touch them up before selling them.  That led to his own interest in painting, and after Hair’s death, he painted and sold his own artwork.

The journey has not been easy for this Highwayman.  In the 1980s, the demand for the paintings dried up and Black got caught up in cocaine.  After an arrest and conviction, he spent 12 years in prison.

“When I first went in, I was coming out in the papers.  Everyday I was in the paper,” Black says. “The warden walked up to me and said, ‘are you Al Black, the one I’m reading about in these books?’ I said, ‘Yes sir!’”

That one question and answer led to Black painting more than 100 murals on the walls of the Central Florida Reception Center in Orange County and the Tomoka Correction Institute in Daytona Beach.  His talents were also requested at the Zephyrhills Correctional Institution, and he went there to paint for them.

Black was released from prison in 2009, during which time he says he found God.  His later paintings all have one thing in common – three birds, representing the Trinity.

A small sampling of Black’s paintings. Do you see the three birds in each one?

Today he lives in Fort Pierce, paints and travels with the others.  He is quick to strike up a conversation, but when someone is wanting to buy a painting, that takes precedence, and he stops to sign his work. Even now, Black is surprised at the notoriety of the Highwaymen.

“I never thought it would be like this.” 

Al Black stops to sign a painting purchased at the show

Mary Ann Carroll, “Highwaywoman”

Mary Ann Carroll at her display

Mary Ann Carroll is the only female in the Highwaymen, but she says that doesn’t bother her. “I don’t feel like a queen. I don’t feel any different, I just feel alright,” she says.

Carroll, now 78, remembers those early days well.  She was taken in by Harold Newton and Livingston “Castro” Roberts, who she says she could talk to anytime about anything.  Carroll is grateful for the ability to paint.

“I just thank God for the gifts he gave me. I was blessed coming up.  I didn’t know I would have to raise my children as a single parent.”

Carroll sold her first painting when she was 18 years old. Although Al Black would take some of her paintings on the road, she would often go solo and sell them herself.  Like other Highwaymen, her paintings feature Florida sunsets, waves crashing onto the beach and palm trees, all in vibrant colors.

Collage of Carroll’s paintings on note cards

Besides painting, Carroll also had other jobs to help support her family, including carpentry and house painting. Today, Carroll lives in Fort Pierce and makes appearances at various events around the state.

 Robert Lewis

Robert Lewis is one of the more active Highwaymen and can often be found at community events. While his paintings on display are a sight to behold, the biggest attraction is watching him put brush to canvas. An easel holds a current painting he is working on – a landscape with trees, a dirt path, and a pond.  One of his fans, who has undoubtedly met him before, tells him the left side of the canvas is a little barren.  After looking at it, he agrees and paints in another tree.

Robert Lewis surveys his painting

Lewis adds in a tree at the advice of a fan

While most of the other Highwaymen were self-taught, Lewis graduated college in 1966 with a degree in art education and went on to teach art in school and in college. He never painted with the Highwaymen but knew several of the members and painted on Upson board like the others. Because of his education, his paintings include more wide-ranging subjects than others.

Someone in the crowd that has gathered around to watch him paint says, “You look good.  What is your secret?”

Lewis answers quickly, “I paint!”

 R.A. Roy McLendon

Once an artist, always an artist, and at 86 years old, Roy McLendon still paints. His wooden easel reveals years of paint choices and color mixing.  His paintings reveal more than just landscapes and nature.  They portray people as being a part of the landscape.

McLendon includes people in his landscapes

Tools of the trade

At 86, McLendon continues his painting

Curtis Arnett

At 68, Arnett is one of the youngest of the Highwaymen.  With an early interest in art, he began experimenting with paint after a visit to his high school by Alfred Hair. Arnett also got to know Bean Backus and later Robert Butler. Unlike other Highwaymen, Arnett painted with acrylics instead of oil-based paint.  His paintings feature hammocks, swamps and cypress trees.

Curtis Arnett, Photo Courtesy of www.TheHighwaymenTrail.com

Isaac Knight

Isaac Knight sits to the side of his display of large and small paintings. Like fellow painter Al Black, Knight started out selling paintings, but discovered there was more money to be made in painting and selling his own.  He and Black painted what they saw the others painting and used tips they received from Bean Backus to create their own landscapes.  Although he still likes painting with bright colors, Knight’s signature style is now his black and white paintings.

Isaac Knight with paintings

From Roadside to Gallery

The Highwaymen’s paintings offer glimpses of Florida many people will never experience – open spaces, wildlife roaming freely.  Some of them still paint every day, others a few times a week. Their shows are well-attended, by those curious about the Highwaymen, or those who are knowledgeable about the art and the artists.

Times have certainly changed.  Paintings that were once sold along the side of the road for $20 – $30 are now selling for thousands of dollars in galleries and antique stores.  What started as a group of painters just trying to make a living has evolved into an era in Florida’s art history that spanned a 30-year period with more than 200,000 paintings.

 

Additional Highwaymen Resources

The Highwaymen Heritage Trail – A trail in Fort Pierce that features 10 stops of significance to the Highwaymen.

Richloam General Store

Sometimes you are lucky to stumble upon a Florida gem simply by venturing away from the highways and taking the backroads.  But other times, it takes a small nugget of knowledge to direct you to a slice of Florida history you otherwise would not have seen.

Such is the case with the Richloam General Store, tucked away in the Withlacoochee State Forest in Hernando County. I heard about this little treasure through a friend on social media who said it was a place I needed to visit.

Where is the Richloam General Store?

The store sits south of State Road 50 on Richloam Clay Sink Road, about three miles east of U.S. 301. A small sign on this narrow winding road indicates you are approaching the Historic Richloam General Store.

Who would have known that a short distance from a main east-west highway through Florida sits a store that pays homage to the community’s past?  The front of the store is quaint and inviting.  Rocking chairs on the porch seem to beckon you to sit a while, listen to the sounds of the forest, and enjoy life the way it used to be.

It sounds a little cliché but stepping inside is like taking a step back in time.  From the moment you walk through the screen doors, you feel as though you are being transported back to the 1920s and 30s.

“Welcome to Richloam General Store.  Is this your first time here?”

Daisy Brinson, mother of property owner Eric Burkes, stands behind the original cash register and greets each customer as though they are family.  She is quick to offer up a brief history of the store – and more if you ask questions.  Daisy is proud of this little store and its history, not only to Richloam but also to her family.

Daisy Brinson

Richloam General Store’s History

The store was built in 1920 by Sid Brinson to serve as the general store and post office for the Richloam community.  A train depot, ice house, barn, and turpentine still also sat on the property.  In January 1928, the original store burned to the ground, amid speculation the fire was intentionally set to cover up a robbery, which would have been a federal crime because the store housed the post office.

In about a month’s time, the store was rebuilt – this time out of metal – and remained open until 1936.

After serving as a family residence until the mid-1950s, the store sat vacant for nearly 20 years, until John Brinson (Daisy’s husband) purchased the property from his uncle Sid’s estate in 1973.

Daisy reminisces about life on the property, recounting how her sons were raised here.  One of her fondest memories, she admits, is of the boys using the vacant store as their clubhouse.

Open for Business

Fast forward to 2016 when Daisy and John’s son Eric decides to renovate the store, using as much of the original building material as possible.  It is returned it to the way it was more than 80 years ago and reopened as a general store.

The original post office boxes sit just inside the door.  A hand painted sign hangs from the ceiling and copies of “Wanted” posters are taped to the exterior.  The letter slot is just below the postmaster’s window.

Sid Brinson’s name can be seen on some of the original sheets of metal used to rebuild the store in the late 20s. Each pallet that arrived had his name stamped on the top sheets of the bundle.

Other evidence of the original character of the building and the property can be seen elsewhere within the store.  Bricks from the old turpentine still now serve as the fireplace.

And Daisy is happy to point out the 1918 Singer Treadle Sewing Machine she still uses to make aprons, sock monkeys and Raggedy Ann and Andy dolls.

Of course, you can’t visit a general store without looking at the many items on the shelves themselves. The Richloam General Store stays true to the time period and offers goods you would have seen in the 20s and 30s, items you won’t necessarily see in today’s grocery stores.

Jams and jellies, sauces, local honey, salt-cured meat, and jars of candy all offer up a taste of life in simpler times.

Richloam General Store, the oldest historical building still standing in the Richloam area, was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2017.  The folks who stop by are the locals, hunters during hunting season, and the curious.  Fundraising efforts are now underway to restore or rebuild the other buildings on the property to provide more opportunities for visitors to learn about early life in the Richloam community.

Florida’s backroads don’t get any better than this.

 

Note: The Richloam General Store is open seven days a week from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

#FloridaStrong: After Irma

Now that life is back to a “new normal” following Hurricane Irma, I can take a deep breath and reflect on weathering the storm.  To be honest, everything is still a blur, from the moment I picked up my mom and drove northwest to Tallahassee and then to Georgia, to the day we finally drove back across the Florida state line.  Hurricane Irma proved to be an unpredictable storm with spaghetti models having its track anywhere from the east coast of Florida, up the center of the state, or veering into the Gulf.

It was the storm that kept us glued to our televisions or weather radios or social media. We prayed for the storm to dissipate and texted family and friends.

Fear.  Anxiety. They held a tight grip on many Floridians as Irma pummeled her way across the Sunshine State.

Out of the Storm

When dawn broke, the damage was crushing, the flooding was unfathomable and the power outages overwhelming.  When all was said and done, 98% of the state experienced at least tropical storm force winds. The fear that had held us tight turned into shock after the storm.

Flooding from nearby Peace River, Hardee County

Debris littered our yards and our neighborhoods.  Rising waters from nearby rivers flooded our homes and caused road closures.  The absence of power left spoiled food in our refrigerators and grated on our nerves.  Schools were closed.  Store shelves were bare.

Hardee County

Hardee County

Hardee County

Orange County

Outside of our neighborhoods, many of the places I have visited for the blog were closed because of their own damage or debris.  Lakes and rivers that would be brimming with activity have been closed to boating or swimming because of possible dangers or bacteria.

Irma caused substantial damage and disruption, but she did not break our spirit.  Out of the devastation emerged proof of the real Florida: resilient and compassionate.  Neighbors helping neighbors.  Communities helping communities.  Other states pitching in to help.  Even offers of help from other countries.

Social media became a focal point of the good going in this great state.  It revealed communities adopting linemen from other states.  Washing their clothes.  Providing them with snacks and necessities while they are away from their own families.

Facebook post: helping linemen from Oklahoma

It showed statewide efforts of church groups providing clean up after the storm – from the Keys to the panhandle.

City Church Tallahassee cleaning up after the storm

The results of City Church Tallahassee cleanup efforts

Florida will take some time to fully recover from Irma.  Debris cleanup alone will take months to complete.  Power poles have to be replaced.  Repairs to roofs and other structures require insurance adjustments, estimates and permits and time to complete.

And while we have suffered frustration and hurricane fatigue, our resolve as a state will continue to shine.

We are Florida.

We are #FloridaStrong.

Mount Dora Independence Day Parade

July 4th may be in the books, but the memories and images live on. Hometown parades are proof of the spirit of smaller towns in Florida. Today, something a little different.  I am sharing the photography of Jessica Burns from the Mount Dora Independence Day Parade. Visit her website for more photos.    JBPhotographyAndProduction.com

What are your favorite memories of small town parades?

 

 

 

 

Museum of Florida History

What’s the saying about “the best-laid plans?”  On occasion, those plans for a day of “celebrating all things Florida” are impacted for one reason or another.  The day we loaded up and headed towards the St. Marks Lighthouse in Wakulla County, Mother Nature had a different idea.  As the skies turned gray and it was obvious we were heading into rain, we went on to Plan B: The Museum of Florida History in Tallahassee.

Not all museums are child-friendly, but the Museum of Florida History is. Our group included my grandchildren, ages six months, three and five.  Obviously, the two older ones were the ones we had to keep interested – and from the moment we arrived, they were!

Exhibits

Just inside the door, visitors are greeted by a mastodon, found in Wakulla Springs and one of the original exhibits from the Museum’s opening in 1977.

Mastodon found in Wakulla Springs

The Museum houses four permanent exhibits: Forever Changed: La Florida 1513 – 1821, Florida in the Civil War, World War II and Naval Ships Named Florida. Colorful displays, informational panels, and replicas of Spanish ships provide visitors with a “walk through time.”

In addition to the exhibits themselves, there are more than 45,700 artifacts on display throughout the museum.  Military artifacts from the Civil War and World War II are featured prominently in the Museum, as well as jewelry and gold coins.

Hands-On Displays

Many of the exhibits also offer opportunities to interact with Florida history – whether it’s picking up a six-pound shot from an iron cannon on a Spanish merchant vessel…

Or taking the helm of a river boat.

And for the older visitors, knot tying is a skill you can practice on board the Spanish ship.

Florida history truly comes to life for visitors of all ages with these fun displays.

Grandma’s Attic

One of the favorite hands-on exhibits is Grandma’s Attic.  Imagine what it was like to walk up the stairs to the attic and finding a treasure trove of things to play with.  That’s how this exhibit is set up – housing all those things Grandma didn’t want to get rid of.  Games, clothes, and an old stove are just a few of the items to entertain visitors.  And it’s not just for the little tykes.  There is something in this attic people of all ages can remember.

Temporary Exhibits

Besides the permanent displays, the Museum houses temporary exhibits.  The current exhibit (through July 23, 2017) is Beaches, Creatures and Cowboys: Florida Movie Posters.  Representing films in Florida from the 1920s to the present, there are nearly 50 movie posters and other advertising memorabilia on display.

It’s fun to see how many of them you knew were filmed in Florida, like Apollo 13 or The Yearling, but, did you know Edward Scissorhands also has a Florida tie?  You’ll even see a poster for Creature from the Black Lagoon, filmed in nearby Wakulla Springs.

Other Things to See

There is so much more to see at the Museum than just these exhibits. The Museum houses a complete collection of art from each of the 26 Florida Highwaymen, a group of African American artists who traveled the highways of south Florida selling their paintings in the 1960s and 1970s.

Even after you leave the building, the exhibits continue.  Just outside the Museum is Florida’s World War II Monument. Completed in 2004, it is dedicated to the 248,000 Floridians who served in the Armed Services during the war, including the 4,600 who paid the ultimate sacrifice.  The centerpiece of the memorial is a replica of Florida’s pillar at the National World War II Memorial in Washington, D.C.

The monument sits at the end of a path lined with markers for each of the state’s 67 counties and provides local connections and reverence for the war effort.

 

FM Notes

The Museum of Florida History is open Monday – Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Sunday and holidays from Noon to 4:30 p.m.  Admission is free.  It’s a great place to spend the day – whether to get in out of the heat or in out of the Florida rain.