Floridiana Magazine

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Cedar Keys Light Station at Seahorse Key

Cedar Key exudes the description of an “old Florida” town.  Quaint houses. An historic downtown.  Friendly people. The first time I visited Cedar Key was when I worked for Gainesville television station WCJB in the 80s.  Not much has changed since then, but now I view it with a different lens.  I view it as a Florida resident simply interested in the history and beauty of our state.

My most recent trip to Cedar Key was for the purpose of touring the Cedar Keys Light Station during the town’s Seafood Festival in October.  Although Tropical Storm Nestor caused the cancellation of the first day of the festival, it cleared out in time for a beautiful Sunday and a picture-perfect day for a boat ride to Seahorse Key.

Entrance to Seahorse Key | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The boat ride itself took about thirty minutes. Low tide meant a little navigational skill was needed to get us to our destination, but once there, the views from the island were breathtaking.

Cedar Keys Light Station

Stepping off the boat, the lighthouse was in full view.  Unlike other lighthouses we have visited and climbed, Cedar Keys Light Station is a two-story structure, with the typical spiral staircase leading to the lantern room.  The climb consists of 35 steps, but unfortunately, the stairs were blocked off during our visit, so we could not go to the top to get the panoramic view of Seahorse Key.

Cedar Keys Lighthouse | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Steps to top of lighthouse | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

New light installed | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The lighthouse is the oldest standing lighthouse on Florida’s west coast.  Built in 1854, at one time the light could be seen for fifteen miles. It was not only a navigational beacon but was also instrumental in bringing commerce to Cedar Key.

Less than eight years later, the Civil War interrupted life as it was known. At the beginning of the war, the lighthouse fixtures were dismantled and sent to Waldo for safekeeping.  In January of 1862, Union forces on the U.S.S. Hatteras blockaded the keys and destroyed an army barracks and cannons on Seahorse Key.  The lighthouse did not sustain any major damage. In 1866, following the war, the lighthouse was repaired and returned to service. It remained in commission until 1915, due to a significant decrease in vessels using the port.

In 1952, the University of Florida worked out an agreement with U.S. Fish & Wildlife entered to lease the property and establish a marine laboratory. The light station now serves as a dormitory for groups visiting the island for educational purposes.

Seahorse Key Dock | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

After more than 100 years in the dark, the lighthouse was reactivated July 5, 2019.  The fourth-order Fresnel lens that was originally used in the lighthouse, was replicated by Artworks Florida, an Orlando-based company specializing in the restoration of lenses.  In its finished stage, the lens is 36 inches tall and weighs 125 pounds and is lit only during special events.

Other Things to See on Seahorse Key

Birds and Beauty

One of 13 islands that make up the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge, Seahorse Key is said to be the highest elevation on Florida’s west coast.  The sand dune on which the lighthouse was built, is 52.3 feet high which is noticeable when walking the trail from the back of the lighthouse, down to the shore along the Gulf of Mexico.

Unlike other Florida beaches, this one is untouched.  A leisurely walk and keen observation can lead to amazing discoveries.

Steps from the beach to the top of the dune | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The beach at Seahorse Key | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Horseshoe Crab | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Hooded warbler | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

The island and a 300-foot buffer around it are closed from March 1st to June 30th to protect nesting birds.

Cemetery

Another interesting find on the island is a small cemetery with about a dozen headstones. Some of those buried include William Wilson, the first lighthouse keeper (1854 – 1855), and Catharine Hobday, the assistant lighthouse keeper from 1872 to 1879. Catharine was also the only woman to serve at the Cedar Keys Light Station. Her son Andrew was the longest serving lighthouse keeper (1871 – 1890).

Other headstones include two local fishermen from the 1800s and sailors from the U.S.S. Fort Henry and the U.S.S. Union.

Make sure to take the mosquito warnings seriously.  This short walk to the cemetery and back included quite a bit of itching and scratching for sure.

Cemetery on Seahorse Key | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Catharine Hobday Tombstone | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Navy sailors tombstones | Photo by Floridiana Magazine

Seahorse Key, managed by the Lower Suwannee Wildlife Refuge, is about three miles off Cedar Key and is only open to the general public during open house events.  There are usually about four open houses during the year.  The dates listed so far for 2020 include Wednesday, March 4th and Wednesday, March 18th.

Check out the Nature Coast Biological Station website for future events on Seahorse Key.

Other Fun Facts

  • The name “Cedar Keys” came from two American explorers who were searching for cedar timber near the Suwannee River.
  • Seahorse Key got its name because the land formation resembles a seahorse.

Please view our slide show below of additional photographs taken on Seahorse Key and be sure to leave us a comment on your own adventures of the island.

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Manatee Viewing at Blue Spring State Park

When you think of Florida, cold weather isn’t the first thing to come to mind.  But when the mercury starts to drop, some of the best places to visit are the state’s springs.  That’s where you will be able to see manatees in their natural habitats – a sight that never gets old.  So, when we got our first blast of cold air, guess where we headed?

Blue Spring State Park

Blue Spring State Park in Orange City offers some of the best views of manatees (at least in our opinion).  Considered one of the largest gathering sites for these gentle giants during the winter months, Blue Spring is home to nearly 500 manatees, up from about 40 when research began in the 1970s.

The park offers numerous viewing platforms to see the manatees. Watch from the overlooks, a metal dock or follow the boardwalk to the headspring.  About 1/3 of a mile from the St. Johns River, this first magnitude spring (a spring that discharges water at the rate of 100 cubic feet per second) provides a safe haven for these gentle giants.

Manatees in the spring run

Take the boardwalk to the headspring

What You Will See

If it’s cold outside, there’s no doubt you will observe manatees during your visit to Blue Spring State Park.  Watch as the manatees hang out in the spring run or the spring itself.  Get a glimpse of the manatee mothers swimming alongside their calves, or a group of manatees playing games in the water. See them glide slowly through the water, sit on the bottom of the spring run or perform barrel rolls.  There is something very peaceful about observing these mammals in their habitat.

Manatees of all sizes can be observed in Blue Spring State Park. They can grow up to 10-12 feet in length and can weigh as much as 2,000 pounds. Manatees can live 50 – 60 years in the wild, and according to the Save the Manatee website, some of the same manatees have been spotted in Blue Spring since the early 70s.

Mama and her calf

Injuries to Manatees

Sadly, many manatees receive serious injuries from boats, some from propellers cutting into their skin, or from blunt-force from speeding boaters.  Many of the manatees seen in Blue Spring have scars as evidence of their injuries.  Not all injuries come from boats, however. Some come from nets or fishing line or other items tossed into the water ways.

Water Activities

Canoeing, kayaking, swimming and diving are all suspended in the spring run and the headspring at Blue Spring State Park during the winter months.

Tips for Viewing

Besides Blue Spring State Park, manatees can be seen in many springs, rivers and other waterways around the state during the winter months of November through March.  No matter where you see them, here are a few tips for viewing:

  1. On cold mornings at Blue Spring State Park, arrive early. The park closes its gates once the parking lots are full. Check your destination for site specific information.
  2. Look but don’t touch.
  3. Be patient. Manatees typically come up for air every three to five minutes. However, they can stay underwater for up to 15 – 20 minutes.
  4. When the manatees surface, listen closely for their breathing sounds.
  5. Do not feed them or poke them with anything.
  6. Take along a camera or use your smart phone. They don’t move fast and you can get some great photos!
  7. Sunny days are more picturesque than cloudy days, but you can still see them, even with overcast skies.

Hanging out over the spring

Blue Spring State Park is a 50-minute drive from Orlando and is located on French Avenue in Orange City, west of US Highway 17-92.  Park hours are 8:00 a.m. until sundown 365 days a year.  There is a $6.00 per car charge to get into the park.

Note: Updates to Wheelie and his rescue can be found on our Facebook page.

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A Visitor’s Guide to Devil’s Millhopper

Exploring Florida can take on many twists and turns, ups and downs.  For visitors to Devil’s Millhopper Geological State Park in Gainesville, that exploration literally takes you down to a sinkhole that has attracted curious individuals since the late 1800s.

What is Devil’s Millhopper?

Devil’s Millhopper, 120 feet deep and about 500 feet across, formed when the limestone underneath it collapsed.  More than 100 feet of geologic rock layers make it unique as it is one of the few places in Florida where they are exposed.  The further down you go into the sinkhole, the older the rocks.  Established as a state park in 1974, it was also named a National Natural Landmark in 1976.

Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

How Did Devil’s Millhopper Get its Name?

As is the case with other Florida locations, there are several tales told to explain how Devil’s Millhopper got its name. One says the devil kidnapped a Native American princess and created the sinkhole to trap her rescuers.  The other claims early visitors, who found bones and fossils at the bottom, believed animals and beasts went there to meet the devil.  In reality, it was named because of its shape – a funnel-like shape similar to one you find at the bottom of a grain hopper on a farm.

Visitor’s Center

You can learn more about the Millhopper inside the Visitor’s Center at the entrance to the park.  Make sure to stop, pick up a brochure about the sink, or ask the park ranger on duty any questions you might have.  Interactive exhibits inside provide more information about how it formed and what has been found at the bottom.

Visitor Center at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

The Walk Down

Even though I lived in Gainesville about 30 years ago, I never made it to Devil’s Millhopper.  Now I know what I was missing.  A walk to the bottom takes you away from the noise of the city into a peaceful rainforest-like setting that offers picturesque views of ferns and other vegetation, along with small waterfalls and streams. On the day of our visit, those views included bright turquoise water and turtles sitting on old tree branches that had fallen into the water.  The water level in the sink is dependent on the amount of rainfall.

Sinkhole at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Turtle on log at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

At one time there were 232 stairs you would have to walk down to get to the sinkhole, but Hurricane Irma in 2017 caused extensive damage and the stairs had to be rebuilt.  Now there are 132 steps and they are relatively easy to manage.  Just remember, going back up is still a little tougher than going down.

Boardwalk leading to the sinkhole | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Hiking the Trail

Besides the stairs down to the sinkhole, there’s a hiking trail that takes you along the rim. Before Hurricane Irma, the trail was a complete loop around the top of the sink, taking you over a bridge that crosses a gully flowing into the sink.  Due to safety concerns, the bridge is currently closed, and your hike will have to be modified.  As you walk the trail, make sure to look all around you.  There are some amazing sites to be seen if you take the time.

Along the trail at Devil’s Millhopper | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Visiting Basics

Devil’s Millhopper is part of the Florida State Parks System and is located off County Road 232 in northwest Gainesville.  Before Hurricane Irma, 60,000 people visited the park per year.  Without the steps down to the sink, that number decreased, but park officials are expecting it to go back up now that the new boardwalk is open.

The park is open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 Wednesday through Sunday and is closed Monday and Tuesday.  A $4.00 per vehicle fee is collected at a cash box at the entrance to the parking lot.  Of course, if you have an annual pass to the State Parks, you can write in your pass number on the envelope and the hang tag for your car and forego the charge.

Pack a lunch and a bottle or two of water, take your camera, and wear closed-toe shoes.  It’s definitely a trip worth taking.

Interesting Fact:  Construction on the new boardwalk had to be delayed a year because funds were diverted to parks devastated by Hurricane Michael (2018) in the Panhandle.  Those funds were reallocated for Devil’s Millhopper in 2019 with construction beginning in January and finishing in June.

 

Other Things to Do Nearby

If you are looking for other things to do while in Gainesville, here are a few of our favorites:

Dudley Farm Historic State Park –  Located in Newberry, this farm portrays life on a farm in the mid-to-late 1800s.

UF Bat Houses – Join others along Museum Road on the University of Florida campus for the nightly exodus of  400,000 bats.  The show starts about 15 to 20 minutes after sundown.

Sweetwater Wetlands Park – The park is a man-made habitat located on the north end of Paynes Prairie on Williston Road in Gainesville.  There are more than three and a half miles of easy trails on 125 acres, with amazing views of plants, animals, and more than 215 species of birds.  If you are lucky, you may get a chance to see the wild horses or the bison roaming the prairie.

 

Boca Grande – More Than Just Tarpon Capital of the World

For more than 40 years, the Gulf Coast in Charlotte County has been my vacation go-to spot.  Pristine beaches.  Clear water.  Amazing sunsets.  From my favorite beach on Manasota Key, I can easily travel to other towns offering old Florida charm, whether it’s with comparable views or other amenities.  During my recent vacation, I visited Boca Grande, also known as Tarpon Capital of the World – but it is much more than that.

Boca Grande Beginnings – Phosphate and Fishing

Like many Florida towns, the first inhabitants of Boca Grande were the Calusa Indians, a hunting and fishing tribe, who lived on the island from about 900 A.D. to the mid-1700s, when they all but disappeared due to European diseases, slavery and warfare.

Situated on Gasparilla Island, about 100 miles south of Tampa, Boca Grande Pass is one of the deepest natural inlets in Florida.  Its location between Charlotte Harbor and the Gulf of Mexico contributed to its early beginnings in  phosphate and, to this day, fishing.  Tarpon congregate at the Pass because of the depth, with estimates of as many as 10,000 of the fish in the Pass at a time, weighing anywhere from 50 to 200 pounds.

Besides fishing, the discovery of phosphate turned Boca Grande into a deep-water port.  In the late 1800s, phosphate was found along the banks of the Peace River, which enters Charlotte Harbor about 20 miles away. The mineral was placed on barges and taken to Port Boca Grande, where it was placed on ships for worldwide distribution. A wooden cleat the ships once tied to on the docks is on display at the lighthouse museum.  Remnants of the docks can still be seen offshore.

In an effort to provide a more efficient way of getting the phosphate from the river to the ships, a railroad was built and carried phosphate and supplies from 1907 to 1979. In fact, in 1969, Port Boca Grande ranked as the fourth busiest port in Florida.

The railroad also opened the area for wealthy individuals from the north to visit the island. Over the years, visitors to this piece of paradise have included names like Vanderbilt and DuPont.

The end of the railroad came in 1979 after years of dwindling port traffic.  Phosphate companies had switched to ports in Tampa and Manatee County and the industry in Boca Grande came to an end. Today, along what used to be the original railroad right-of-way is a seven-mile bike path.

Gasparilla Island State Park

At the southern tip of Gasparilla Island is the Gasparilla Island State Park. Getting into the park will cost you $3.00 per car, but it’s a small price to pay for the beauty and peace of the beach.  Pristine waters, a wide swath of white sand, and views of pelicans, manatees and fish jumping provide a true Florida experience.

Sea Oats, protected by law, aid in the prevention of beach erosion

Pelicans at rest

Manatee swimming offshore

Port Boca Grande Lighthouse and Museum

The Port Boca Grande Lighthouse, the centerpiece of the park, is the oldest structure on the island, guiding mariners since 1890. The lighthouse is a one-story structure with a tower protruding from the top of the roof.  A second, nearly identical building sits next to the lighthouse and once served as the living quarters for the assistant keeper. The lighthouse was donated by the Federal Government to Lee County in 1972, then placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. The lighthouse, fully restored in 1985-86, is visible up to 12 miles away when lit.  A museum and gift shop make up the interior of the lighthouse, but make sure to check out the hours before you go as they vary with the seasons.

Port Boca Grande Lighthouse and Assistant Keeper’s Living Quarters

Gasparilla Island Lighthouse

Besides the lighthouse at the Park, there is a second lighthouse on the island, the Gasparilla Island Lighthouse. This lighthouse was built in Lewes, Delaware in 1888 and was moved and reconstructed in its present location in 1927.  It was first lit in 1932 and flashed every six seconds during evening hours. Like the Boca Grande Lighthouse, it played a critical role in guiding phosphate ships into port.  After decades of decline, the lighthouse was restored in 2018 and opened for climbs.  The structure is 105 feet tall, with 134 steps up a black metal spiral staircase.  It’s said to offer the best view in town, and when climbs start again in October, you can bet we will be there to make the climb and see for ourselves.

Taken during a visit to the island in 2015, prior to restoration

Post restoration

Other Things to See in Boca Grande

While a visit to the park, the beach and the lighthouses is enough to fill a day, there are other things to see and do while in Boca Grande.  The Gasparilla Inn is a cornerstone of the community. Built in 1912, it provided lodging for wealthy northerners coming to Florida during the time when the state became a travel and vacation destination.  Over the years, guests have included Henry Ford, Thomas Edison, and President George H.W. Bush. The Inn was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places on March 18, 2008. Even if you don’t stay there, you can visit and view the grand splendor of the hotel and its property.

A leisurely drive through town reveals a quaint shopping district.  In what was at one time the railroad depot, there are now a number of shops, offices and The Loose Caboose Restaurant.  Other historic buildings, including churches, also add to the charm of this island.

St. Andrews Episcopal Church

First Baptist Church of Boca Grande

Getting to Boca Grande

There are numerous ways to get to the island, depending on where you begin.  Once you actually get to the entrance to the island, there is a $6.00 charge per car to get onto the island.

While Boca Grande shares some of the same characteristics of other Florida coastal towns, it is quieter, more laid back, and less crowded.  Spend a day or spend a week, Boca Grande is one of those locations that offers a true Florida experience.  Sun, sand, surf, or shops – there’s something for about everyone.

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Orlando Wetlands Park

One thing we have learned about Florida in our years of exploring, it’s not just about the quiet little towns or the once-famous attractions, it’s also about the amazing wildlife that calls Florida home.  While folks living in less-populated areas have a greater chance of seeing a few deer in their backyard or a bobcat roaming in the pasture, those of us living in the city also have opportunities to view these creatures in the wild – at nature preserves, parks, or wildlife drives.

The Orlando Wetlands Park is a man-made wetland wastewater treatment system located in Christmas.  The 1,650 acres the park sits on were purchased in 1987 by the City of Orlando with a primary purpose of providing advanced treatment of the nearly 14 million gallons of reclaimed water it receives daily, for safe discharge into the St. Johns River.  The water is monitored daily and monthly through a variety of measures – automatic and manual collections – so that adjustments can be made to provide optimal water treatment.  Read more about the history behind the park here.

Although the park has been open to the public in a limited capacity since the 1990s, it was opened year-round in 2015 and provides opportunities for nature lovers and photographers.

Getting Around the Park

With 18 miles of berm roads, there is plenty to see.  Visitors can opt to hike, walk, bike or take the guided tram tour.

Tram Tours

Tram tours offer visitors a 45- to 60-minute ride, accompanied by volunteers from the Friends of the Wetlands. While one volunteer drives the tram, the other acts as tour guide and points out different areas of interest.  On our trip, the tram stopped below a red-shouldered hawk perched atop a dead tree.  Other birds we saw along the way included herons, glossy ibises, ospreys, and a roseate spoonbill. We were also able to catch a glimpse of a bald eagle’s nest, but it took a little bit of effort since it was off in the distance beyond a tree line.

No visit to a park with water is complete without seeing alligators.  They could be seen from both sides of the tram, some along the shoreline, others gliding through the water.  In 2015, the latest year data is available, there were an estimated 1,700 gators in the park.  Whether you step off the tram or are walking along the berms, it’s always a good idea to mind the signs!

Walking and Biking

Walking or biking the berm roads offers the same views as the tram tour.  While you don’t get to hear the history of the park, or learn about the birds or alligators, you do get to see more of the park, or linger a little longer for those once-in-a-lifetime photos.  However, you could also be missing out on the old alligator nest.  Our advice – do both!  Take the tram tour, then walk back to some of the areas highlighted on the tour or take a different road and see what new adventure awaits.

What You May See

The park is home to more than 30 species of wildlife listed on the state’s threatened and endangered wildlife list.  The wildlife may include otters, foxes, deer, turtles, snakes and alligators.  There are also about 200 species of birds within the park.  Stop by the Education Center for handy guides on birds, wildlife and plant life.  If you forget to stop and pick them up, the guides are also available online.

Location and Hours

Orlando Wetlands Park is located at 25155 Wheeler Road in Christmas, just a short drive from Fort Christmas Historical Park in east Orange County. Get there by taking County Road 420 off State Road 50 in Christmas.

The park is open from sunrise to sunset, seven days a week, 365 days a year.  There is parking onsite and it is free to get in, although donations are accepted. The park also holds the Wetlands Festival in February of each year.  Make plans to attend.

What to Take

  • Water
  • Sunscreen
  • Camera
  • Binoculars

Pets are NOT allowed.

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For more photos of our trip to Orlando Wetlands Park, please view our slideshow below.

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