Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

Places to See in Palatka

Once known as the “Gem of the St. Johns,” Palatka is located in northeast Florida, east of Gainesville and south of Jacksonville.  Even though I lived and worked in Gainesville for several years, I never experienced Palatka as a visitor.  But recently I had a chance to visit twice – and each time saw something different than before.  Palatka is full of history, culture and fun.

The name Palatka comes from the Timucuan Indian word Pilotakata which means “crossing.”  Palatka was once a prosperous town with world-class hotels and was known for its timber and citrus, as well as its natural beauty.  But in 1884 a fire in downtown destroyed many of the town’s fine hotels. Then in 1894 and 1895, freezes devastated the citrus industry.  What was once a booming town, saw a sharp decline in visitors and industry.

Palatka’s Historic District

Palatka is home to not one, but two historic districts, the North Historic District and the South Historic District.  The North District is composed of 350 acres and 76 buildings with boundaries including the St. Johns River, Bronson Street, North First, North Fifth and Main Street.  The South District is bounded by the St. Johns River, Oak, South 9th, and Morris Streets.

St. Marks Episcopal Church (circa 1846), Palatka

One of the more famous houses in the district is the Bronson-Mulholland House, built around 1853 for Isaac Bronson, who proposed the legislation for Florida to become a state. A long and storied history, plus the city’s intent to demolish it after purchasing the property in 1965, have brought the house full circle.  It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1972 and is now open to the public for tours.

Ravine Gardens State Park

When you are done strolling down the brick streets of the historic districts, take a drive out to the Ravine Gardens State Park.  It is one of nine New Deal-era parks in Florida and is also included on the National Register of Historic Places.  It was created in 1933 by the Works Progress Administration and Federal Emergency Relief Administration in an effort to help Palatka recover from the Great Depression.

Today you can walk or drive along the nearly two-mile road around the park and get a glimpse of the two ravines. The ravines are up to 120 feet deep and have steep banks with springs that flow into the St. Johns River. Because the ravines are considered active, there is a chance of them getting wider and deeper.

There is more to the park than just the ravine. A formal garden, an amphitheater and reflecting pool also provide visitors with intriguing views.  The Court of States sits just inside the entrance and displays 48 of the 50 state flags – leaving out Alaska and Hawaii because they were not states when the Court was built.  An obelisk dedicated to President Franklin D. Roosevelt can also be viewed in the Court of States.

A few notes about the park:

  • The best time to see the flowers in bloom is from January to March, during the peak flowering period.
  • The main park drive is open to vehicles beginning at 8:00 in the morning and closes an hour before sunset.
  • There is a minimal entrance fee to the park. If the ranger station isn’t staffed, make sure to use the honor box to pay.
  • The park is open 365 days a year, including all holidays.

City of Murals

To learn even more about the history of Palatka, print out a map and tour the city’s murals.  Part of the Florida Mural Trail, the Conlee-Snyder Murals are larger than life renderings of the history, culture and natural riches of Palatka and Putnam County.  Mural efforts began in 1998 and now include more than 20 artistic representations, including the Battle at Horse Landing, Putnam County Wildflowers, Senator B.C. Pearce Agricultural Mural and Cattle Drive to Payne’s Prairie. The mural To God be the Glory depicts the story of Billy Graham, from his baptism in Putnam County to his first pulpit at the Peniel Baptist Church.

Battle at Horse Landing

Putnam County Wildflowers

Senator B.C. Pearce Agricultural Mural

Cattle Drive to Payne’s Prairie

To God be the Glory

There are also additional murals painted by local students and artists not sponsored by the Mural Committee.

Riverside

The St. Johns River has played a big role in Palatka’s history with steamboats plying areas south of Palatka.  In its heyday, Palatka was known as the gateway to the interior of Florida.  The river is still one of the most picturesque locations in Palatka today.  A clock tower stands tall at the edge of the riverside park.  Placards provide information about the river or the history of the Doughboys. It is worth a stop to walk out onto the docks and view the boats anchored offshore or watch the personal watercraft riding the river.

But from August through October, the docks take on a whole new look.  This part of the St. Johns River is a popular spot for shrimpers, all vying for that perfect spot to cast their nets.  Nets are rolled and prepped, then thrown with precision into the water, some nets creating perfect circles as they hit the surface.  They are then hauled back in to check for shrimp, then rolled and cast all over again.

Eateries and Places to Drink in Palatka

No trip is complete to a Florida town or city without looking for some of the area’s favorite foods.  Palatka lays claim to the state’s oldest diner – Angel’s.  Set up in an old train dining car, Angel’s has been serving its customers since 1932 – and it still offers curb service.

Angel’s is a favorite of regulars and visitors alike. Cooks are busy keeping up with the orders.  Menu highlights include the Puscalow – a chocolate frosty drink that tastes a lot like a Yoohoo, and the Black Bottom – scrambled eggs, bacon and ground beef on a bun.

Puscalow

Black Bottom

While you’re in Palatka, head on over to Uncork & Unwind on South 2nd Street for a drink and a little relaxation.  This modern establishment offers a wide variety of craft beer and wine. In fact, there are about four pages of drinks to choose from.  Not sure what to order? The owner/bartender is extremely knowledgeable and can recommend the perfect drink.  This hidden gem is a great place to end the day!

If you plan a trip to Palatka, plan for a whole day to see all the sights – from the historic districts to the riverfront to Ravine Gardens. Get out and learn a little more about another of Florida’s old towns.

Homeland Heritage Park

As housing developments and retail spaces continue to pop up around the state, more and more of old Florida is disappearing under the guise of progress.  Fortunately, some communities are preserving parts of their past.

Just outside of Bartow, in the small community of Homeland, sits the only historical park in Polk County. Homeland Heritage Park is a five-acre park with original buildings from the late 1800s and early 1900s.  Most of them were donated to the county and moved to the park for visitors to see for years to come.

Homeland School

The Homeland School (once known as Bethel Academy) is the oldest surviving school in the county (built in 1878) and sits in its original location.  Although the original building was only one room, a growing student population necessitated the addition of another room in 1888.

A peek inside the windows reveals a typical classroom of the time period – a teacher’s desk, old wooden chairs, long tables, a chalkboard and pianos.  It was in this room that students were taught lessons in reading, writing, arithmetic and manners.  More than 75 students once attended the Homeland School, until its closure in 1956.

In 1985, the school and property were donated to the Polk County Board of County Commissioners and in 2007 was placed on the National Register of Historic Buildings.

Homeland Methodist Church

During the 1800s, churches served as more than just places for religious services.  They were also the cornerstone of the community and served as the place for social gatherings. In the Homeland community, the Methodist Church was one of those places.


Originally known as Bethel Methodist Church, it dates back to 1878 and was said to be a simple wooden structure that did not have any lights or windows. That old building was replaced by the Homeland Methodist Church in 1887.

One of the features that stands out when looking at this church is the towering steeple.  The original steeple was destroyed by a hurricane in 1946, and was replaced by one made of aluminum.

Another striking feature is the stain glass windows, uncommon for a country church.  Looking through the windows, you can see their brilliant colors shining into the sanctuary.

The church was donated in 1986 and was moved from just off the park property to its current location.

Pole Barn

While the church was the heart of the community, the pole barn was the center of daily life. This outbuilding was the hub of work on the farm.  It was used to store farming equipment and served as shelter for farm animals.

A walk around the barn provides a glimpse into the strenuous daily work.  Farm equipment and an old carriage on display inside the barn are a far cry from the mechanized equipment used today.

Homeland Houses

Visitors to the Homeland Heritage Park can get a glimpse of two different styles of living in the late 1800s and early 1900s.  One of the homes on display is a single-pen log cabin, a single room cabin with a door and a few windows. It was built by Cornelius and James “Jackson” English in 1888 and used as a family residence until the early 1900s.

The wrap around porch was an important part of the cabin and was often the location where daily chores were done.  Sometimes families even slept outside on the porch because it was cooler than inside. The cabin was used by the English family until 1989, when it was donated to the Homeland Heritage Park.

A second residence on park property represented the more affluent pioneers.  The Raulerson House, built in 1900, originally sat at what is now the intersection of County Line Road and Interstate 4 on the west side of Lakeland. It never had running water or indoor plumbing.  The story on the sign at the park says the Raulerson family and the five children lived downstairs in the house, while their grove foreman and his family lived on the second floor.

The Raulersons lived in the house until 1912 and it remained in the family until 1987, when it was donated and moved to the Homeland Heritage Park.

Other Buildings and Park Features

 Two other buildings at the Homeland Heritage Park serve as the park office and the park annex building.  Both were original buildings from the Methodist Church.

A garden, an old cemetery and an outhouse are also part of the exhibit.

What is unique about this park is that the buildings on display are all original buildings once used or lived in within the county. Rather than tearing them down to make room for newer structures, they were donated to the county by their owners and moved to this location.  Homeland Heritage Park is an example other communities could follow to preserve their own history.

Floridiana Magazine (FM) Notes:

The park is open every day to allow visitors the opportunity to take a step back in time and walk through an early community.  You cannot go inside the buildings unless you call to schedule a tour.  The office is open on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

The Sponge Docks at Tarpon Springs

What I have found in my quest to “celebrate all things Florida” is it is sometimes impossible to see all there is to see or do all there is to do in a one-day excursion.  If you have ever been to Tarpon Springs, you know what I mean.  We made it to the docks, but not to the historic downtown area.  Even at the docks we didn’t have time to get the full experience.

Brief History of Tarpon Springs

Tarpon Springs is known as the “Sponge Capital of the World.”  Sponge boats line the docks, their sponges visible to the visitors who walk up and down the waterfront.

Boats line the docks in Tarpon Springs | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Sponges

Sponges are available for purchase

The history of the sponge industry goes back to the late 1800s, with two men receiving credit for the industry in Tarpon Springs: John Cheyney and John Cocoris.  Cheyney began sponging with a technique known as hooking and launched his first boat around 1890.  Cocoris, a Greek hired by Cheyney, was brought in to streamline sponging and introduced the technique of diving in 1905.

Acknowledgement of their contributions to the industry can be found in several places around town.

During the 1920s, sponge diving became the largest industry in Florida, with Tarpon Springs the major hub of the activity.

Sponging has fallen to tourism, but is still profitable and helps support the economy either directly or indirectly through the number of tourists it draws to the area.

Greek Influence in Tarpon Springs

Greek sponge divers were some of the first to descend on Tarpon Springs.  Everywhere you look, whether it’s the buildings or the restaurants, that influence can be seen throughout the city.  Tarpon Springs has the highest percentage of Greek Americans of any city in the United States.  Old buildings bear the name of early divers and residents, while Greek food offers a taste of Greece – from traditional fare to flavorful pastries.

John M. Gonatos, a sponge diver, also owned a curio shop

Delicious Greek pastries

Shops and Restaurants in Tarpon Springs

As a popular tourist spot, shops and restaurants line the streets down by the docks.  The typical souvenirs fill the shelves or in bins outside shop doors, enticing visitors to walk inside.

Street view along the  Tarpon Springs docks

Florida souvenirs

A marketplace-type area is “home” to many stores and serves as anchor to The Sponge Exchange.  The market boasts an open-air feel, although most of the stores are housed inside adjoining buildings.  Street musicians “serenade” shoppers, adding to the festive atmosphere.  And there are plenty of opportunities for photos!

One of the shopping areas

Picture time!

Another photo opportunity also serves as a history lesson. The brightly painted Aegean Isles reveals its initial use as a sponge boat that then as a Navy air-sea rescue boat during World War II.  Once the war was over, it returned to its original purpose for sponging until it was decommissioned in 1982.

History on display

Other Things to Do in Tarpon Springs

There is something for just about everyone in Tarpon Springs. For people of all ages, dolphin cruises offer a seafaring adventure or a sponge diving trip where you hear about the history and witness a sponge harvesting demonstration.

Another fun spot for the kids is the Tarpon Springs Aquarium.  It features shark and ray shows, an eel encounter, a gator feeding show and a snake demo.

Hidden Beaches

A visit to Tarpon Springs should also include two hidden gems.  Not too far from the docks are two beautiful locations to enjoy the Florida sun – beaches that don’t usually show up on the list of the best. The first is Sunset Beach, at the end of Gulf Drive.  The city park offers a great place to swim, picnic and view a breathtaking sunset.  There is also a playground for kids and a boat ramp for those wanting to take to the water for boating or fishing.

Sunset Beach

The other location is Fred Howard Park, a 155-acre Pinellas County Park.  The park includes pavilions, playgrounds, and nature trails and protects many Florida habitats like sea grass beds and mangrove estuaries.  It is also home to some endangered species such as eagles and gopher tortoises.

Fred Howard Park

One of the biggest surprises of the park, if you’ve never been there before, is the mile-long causeway to the Gulf of Mexico.  Along the causeway, sunbathers sit in the Gulf waters or enjoy water-sports.

The Causeway leading to the beach

Water bikes provide hours of fun

At the end, white sandy beaches and a spectacular view of the Gulf of Mexico await you.  Imagine sitting here and watching a golden sun sink into the water.

The beach at Fred Howard Park: a hidden gem

Tarpon Springs is one of those places that everyone should visit at least once.  Plan on getting there early and staying all day to get the full experience. Or, if you can, plan on a weekend trip.  That way you’re sure to get in all there is to offer – or at least most of it.

Lighthouses Along Florida’s Forgotten Coast

Lighthouses have been guiding the way for ships into Florida since the first one was built and lit in St. Augustine in 1824.  Besides the value they provide along the 1,350 miles of coastline, lighthouses also serve as symbols of strength and safety as well as beacons of hope.

Along a 75-mile stretch of US 98 in the Florida panhandle, three lighthouses stand tall, each with their own story to tell.

St. Marks Lighthouse

The drive to the St. Marks Lighthouse is scenic to say the least.  After entering the St. Marks Wildlife Refuge, it’s another seven miles to the lighthouse itself.  The slow drive takes you through pine flatwoods, tidal pools and marshes and if you look closely, you might just see alligators, birds and other wildlife, or a buoy washed in by a recent hurricane.

The lighthouse sits at the end of the road, at the mouth of the St. Marks River. The first structure, a hollow-walled tower built in 1830, was not accepted by the customs inspector and a second tower was built, this time with solid walls. But there were problems with the solid walls. Moisture could not evaporate and, as a result, cracks started forming as the structure settled. A tidal surge in 1837 caused even more problems. An inspector at the time determined the lighthouse was in “wretched condition” and had to be rebuilt immediately. Rebuilt again, with hollow walls, the lighthouse has guided ships and boaters to the entrance of the river for more than 180 years.  It stands 88 feet tall and includes 85 steps from the base to the top.  Seventy-two of those steps are wooden, the last 13 are iron.

The St. Marks Lighthouse was decommissioned by the Coast Guard and its ownership transferred to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service in 2013.  Its Fourth Order Fresnel lens was removed and sent to the Ponce de Leon Inlet Lighthouse Preservation Association for cleaning and preserving.  It is now in the Visitor Center at the refuge.

We hoped our visit would allow us the opportunity to climb the steps of the lighthouse and lookout over the river.  However, we were greeted by volunteers with the Friends of St. Marks Wildlife Refuge who informed us the lighthouse is closed to visitors while money is being raised for its preservation.  Once the money is raised and the work completed, the lighthouse will open again for tours.

Crooked River Lighthouse, Carrabelle

A little more than an hour west on 98 is the Crooked River Lighthouse in Carrabelle.  Built in 1895, its purpose was to provide guidance for timber ships and fishermen through the pass between Dog and St. George Islands. The 103-foot iron and steel structure was built on the mainland as a replacement to the three lighthouses that once stood on Dog Island.

The lighthouse was lit with what was believed to be the first bivalve fourth order lens installed in the United States at the time. It remained in the lighthouse until 1976 due to mercury leakage and is now in the Coast Guard’s district offices in New Orleans.  Crooked River was decommissioned in 1995, just shy of its 100th anniversary.   The lighthouse stood neglected for several years until ownership was transferred to the City of Carrabelle in 2001 and then leased to the Carrabelle Lighthouse Association. The lighthouse reopened in 2009, about 14 years after it was shut down.

A Keeper’s House Museum, an original outbuilding, a playground and the lighthouse all make up the Crooked River Lighthouse Park.  The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday from noon to 5:00 PM and, weather permitting, tower climbs are available for a small charge.

Cape St. George Light, St. George Island

The first lighthouse was built in 1833 on the western tip of St. George Island.  Three others followed it, including the current lighthouse, completed in 2008, which sits at the end of the four-mile bridge onto St. George Island, in the center of town.  The fact it was rebuilt is a testament to the community.  In 1995, Hurricane Opal wreaked havoc, washing the lighthouse from its foundation, and leaving other buildings in ruins.  As the tower began to lean over the years, the community stepped up efforts to “Save the Light.” Before they could decide whether to move it to a new location or shore it up where it was standing, the lighthouse collapsed into the Gulf of Mexico.  Pieces of the lighthouse were salvaged, as well as 22,000 bricks.  Those bricks are now visible inside the current lighthouse. With the original plans for the 1852 structure from the National Archives in Washington, D.C., the lighthouse was rebuilt in its current location.

The lighthouse contains 92 wooden spiral steps and an eight-rung metal ladder at the top.  A small scuttle hole of 24” x 21” permits passage to the lens.  Once at the top, the view is breathtaking, from the island itself to the waters of the Gulf of Mexico to St. George Sound and Apalachicola Bay.

A complete history of all four structures can be found inside the Lighthouse Keeper’s House, which serves as a museum and a gift shop. There is a small fee to climb the lighthouse, but it is worth it. The climb is easy until the metal ladder.  The opening to get to the top can be challenging to navigate.

With only 30 remaining lighthouses today, lighthouses are a big part of the history of Florida.  Some are now in the hands of local preservation societies and rely on funding to keep them maintained and open to the public.  You, too, can celebrate all things Florida by making plans to visit one of Florida’s remaining lighthouses.

Traveling the Back Roads of North Central Florida

Growing up in a small Florida town, going from Point A to Point B always required traveling back roads.  I don’t think I ever really appreciated those drives until I moved to the city and had to drive on interstates or four-lane roads, all the while navigating through traffic.  Now, I look for those back roads.  I look for the small towns and the old buildings.  I look for those “unique” features that define the communities.  I look for Old Florida.

Lloyd, Florida

Lloyd is one of those places I probably would not have known about had it not been for this adventure to “celebrate all things Florida.”  Named after Walter Lloyd, a blacksmith from New York, it is located about a mile south of Interstate 10 at Exit 217 near Tallahassee.  It is also the birthplace of Mary Edwards Bryan (1846-1913), a writer of more than 20 novels, including Manch (1880) and Wild Work (1881).

The history of this little town can be tied to the railroad industry, which lasted until the 1930s.  As home to the oldest brick railroad station in Florida, Lloyd is a place for Florida history buffs to visit.  The Lloyd Railroad Depot was built in 1858 and is also one of only three surviving railroad depots from the Civil War in Florida.  (The other two are in Tallahassee and Gainesville.)  The depot once served as a hub for transportation and trade and was used by Confederate soldiers for military purposes during the war.

You can only imagine this little depot in its heyday and the stories that unfolded on the station’s platform.

The old brick building has stood up against the measure of time and is now used as the town’s post office.  You can find it at the intersection of Highways 59 and 158.

McAlpin, Florida

After leaving Lloyd, we continued our back roads journey, weaving our way around to U.S. Highway 129, stopping just south of Live Oak in the unincorporated town of McAlpin.

McAlpin, settled in 1882, was named for Daniel M. McAlpin, who had been the owner of the Bulletin (forerunner to the Suwannee Democrat), station master at the railroad, tax assessor, and representative to the Florida legislature (1875).

I must admit, though, what caught my eye the numerous times driving through McAlpin, was the old Speed gas station sign. Weathered and faded, it stands next to an old abandoned store, reminiscent of a part of “old Florida” where family-owned stores and filling stations were part of the booming landscape of the time.

A great place to read up on the history of McAlpin is the group’s Facebook page, McAlpin Florida History.

O’Brien, Florida

About seven miles south of McAlpin on 129 is the small town of O’Brien.  Established in 1880 as Obrine, its name changed to Obrine Station and finally O’Brien.  Upon driving into town, one of the first things to see is a brightly colored rooster perched atop the O’Brien Feed Depot and Hardware Store.

The charm and history don’t stop there.  Just a street to the west of 129 off County Road 349 is a row of old storefronts, one of which is still in use, the Village Emporium.  The shop wasn’t open when we passed through, but it’s definitely on the list of places to revisit as it is said to have its own history. Several other vacant buildings line the small dirt road.

Just past the row of old stores sits another old gem, an old wooden structure with boarded up windows and a tree that has become a part of the structure itself.

Back across 129 going west on CR 349, is another of those back roads you must take the time to enjoy.  It’s a curvy little road that holds a pleasant surprise – if you look for it.  Not easily visible from the road, back among the pine trees, is an old wood-frame house.  Its windows seem to be peering out from between the rows of trees as if they are eyes looking out from the past trying to get a glimpse into the future.

There are plenty of other small towns in North Central Florida to explore, each with their own unique features.  Although each one has its own history to tell, sometimes it’s the little oddities or the hidden treasures among the trees that make it unique.  Dare to venture off the well-traveled highways onto the county roads that lead you straight into Florida history at its finest.

FM Notes:  Here are a few other old towns you might want to read about:

DeLand

Monticello

Lake Placid

Micanopy

Wood and Swink General Store in Evinston

McIntosh

Museum of Florida History

What’s the saying about “the best-laid plans?”  On occasion, those plans for a day of “celebrating all things Florida” are impacted for one reason or another.  The day we loaded up and headed towards the St. Marks Lighthouse in Wakulla County, Mother Nature had a different idea.  As the skies turned gray and it was obvious we were heading into rain, we went on to Plan B: The Museum of Florida History in Tallahassee.

Not all museums are child-friendly, but the Museum of Florida History is. Our group included my grandchildren, ages six months, three and five.  Obviously, the two older ones were the ones we had to keep interested – and from the moment we arrived, they were!

Exhibits

Just inside the door, visitors are greeted by a mastodon, found in Wakulla Springs and one of the original exhibits from the Museum’s opening in 1977.

Mastodon found in Wakulla Springs

The Museum houses four permanent exhibits: Forever Changed: La Florida 1513 – 1821, Florida in the Civil War, World War II and Naval Ships Named Florida. Colorful displays, informational panels, and replicas of Spanish ships provide visitors with a “walk through time.”

In addition to the exhibits themselves, there are more than 45,700 artifacts on display throughout the museum.  Military artifacts from the Civil War and World War II are featured prominently in the Museum, as well as jewelry and gold coins.

Hands-On Displays

Many of the exhibits also offer opportunities to interact with Florida history – whether it’s picking up a six-pound shot from an iron cannon on a Spanish merchant vessel…

Or taking the helm of a river boat.

And for the older visitors, knot tying is a skill you can practice on board the Spanish ship.

Florida history truly comes to life for visitors of all ages with these fun displays.

Grandma’s Attic

One of the favorite hands-on exhibits is Grandma’s Attic.  Imagine what it was like to walk up the stairs to the attic and finding a treasure trove of things to play with.  That’s how this exhibit is set up – housing all those things Grandma didn’t want to get rid of.  Games, clothes, and an old stove are just a few of the items to entertain visitors.  And it’s not just for the little tykes.  There is something in this attic people of all ages can remember.

Temporary Exhibits

Besides the permanent displays, the Museum houses temporary exhibits.  The current exhibit (through July 23, 2017) is Beaches, Creatures and Cowboys: Florida Movie Posters.  Representing films in Florida from the 1920s to the present, there are nearly 50 movie posters and other advertising memorabilia on display.

It’s fun to see how many of them you knew were filmed in Florida, like Apollo 13 or The Yearling, but, did you know Edward Scissorhands also has a Florida tie?  You’ll even see a poster for Creature from the Black Lagoon, filmed in nearby Wakulla Springs.

Other Things to See

There is so much more to see at the Museum than just these exhibits. The Museum houses a complete collection of art from each of the 26 Florida Highwaymen, a group of African American artists who traveled the highways of south Florida selling their paintings in the 1960s and 1970s.

Even after you leave the building, the exhibits continue.  Just outside the Museum is Florida’s World War II Monument. Completed in 2004, it is dedicated to the 248,000 Floridians who served in the Armed Services during the war, including the 4,600 who paid the ultimate sacrifice.  The centerpiece of the memorial is a replica of Florida’s pillar at the National World War II Memorial in Washington, D.C.

The monument sits at the end of a path lined with markers for each of the state’s 67 counties and provides local connections and reverence for the war effort.

 

FM Notes

The Museum of Florida History is open Monday – Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Sunday and holidays from Noon to 4:30 p.m.  Admission is free.  It’s a great place to spend the day – whether to get in out of the heat or in out of the Florida rain.

The Athens of Florida: DeLand

Brief History of DeLand

DeLand’s rich history goes back to when the area was known as Persimmon Hollow and was only accessible by steamboat along the St. John’s River.  Captain John Rich built a log cabin there in 1874, then two years later, in 1876, Henry A. DeLand visited his brother-in-law who lived in Persimmon Hollow.  DeLand liked it so much he purchased a $1,000 plot of land with the idea of developing the area.  He offered settlers purchasing the property a chance to sell it back to him within a two-year period.  DeLand lived up to his word after a freeze destroyed all of their crops and they could no longer stay there.  He bought back all the land.

“Henry’s Vision”

DeLand is also responsible for the city’s nickname “The Athens of Florida.”  Although he was never a full-time resident of the state, he wanted the city to become a place of culture, education and beauty like Athens, Greece.

Stetson University

Stetson University, Florida’s oldest private college, also plays a major role in the city’s history.  Stetson sits on about 160 acres of land in the heart of DeLand.  Founded in 1883 as DeLand University, its name was changed to Stetson University in 1889 in honor of John B. Stetson, a hat manufacturer who, along with Henry DeLand (founder of the city), was one of the founding trustees of the university.

DeLand Hall

Beautiful brick buildings are part of the university’s landscape.  One of those buildings, Elizabeth Hall, was built in 1885 and sits on North Woodland Boulevard.  Elizabeth Hall and other buildings like it are the reasons the university is on the National Register of Historic Places for the state’s “oldest collection of education-related buildings.”

Elizabeth Hall, built 1885

This picturesque campus has been ranked as the 5th best regional university in the South in the 2017 U.S. News and World Report’s guide to America’s Best Colleges.

Stetson Mansion

When planning for this day trip to DeLand, I knew I also wanted to see the Stetson Mansion, but driving up to the entrance, the gate was closed and a sign indicated the start time of the next tour.   Reservations for the tours are required, which means I should have done a little more research! Nevertheless, looking through the gate at this massive mansion, it’s easy to understand why it is Florida’s first luxury estate.

The mansion is referred to as “The House that Hats Built” and served as the winter home for John B. Stetson for 20 years.  Built in 1886, the mansion is filled with intricate carvings, parquet floors and 10,000 panes of antique window glass. It is also one of the first homes in the world with electricity, thanks to the friendship between Stetson and Thomas Edison.  Although it is now a private residence, year-round tours are still offered with special tours taking place during the Christmas holidays.

Athens Theatre

It’s only fitting that the city known as The Athens of Florida is home to its own Athens Theatre.  The theatre is in Historic Downtown DeLand at the end of Indiana Avenue along North Florida Avenue.  The theatre opened its doors in 1922 and was dubbed “Florida’s Handsomest Theatre.”  The theatre has evolved over the years from vaudeville acts to a movie theatre to a dinner theatre.  It closed its doors in the early 1990s but became the focus of the MainStreet DeLand Association which recognized the role it plays in the history of the city.  It is now owned by a non-profit theatre company and produces six Broadway caliber shows per year.  The Athens Theatre Youth Company also uses the facility to educate the youth about the performing arts.

The DeLand Mural Walk

Another must-see in DeLand is the city’s Mural Walk.  With 12 official murals painted on the sides of buildings around town, it is part of the Florida Mural Trail.  Each mural offers its own story about the history of Deland and range from smaller paintings, like “Gibbs Clothing Store”

…to the city’s longest mural at Painter’s Pond Park.  At 100 feet long, it shows what train passengers would see as they were riding through DeLand in the early 1900s.

In addition to the “official” murals, there are several others painted around town that are worth seeing.  The “Wings” painting along Pill Alley is one of those that visitors seek out, perhaps in an effort to earn their own wings.

Shopping and Dining in DeLand

The streets of DeLand are filled with stores, restaurants, and drinking establishments. Music stores offer up vinyl records of some of the old favorites, while antique stores provide treasure hunters plenty of opportunities to plunder.

Three-story antique store. A dream come true!

Hometown breweries like Persimmon Hollow Brewing Company and outdoor spaces like DaVinci Gardens give patrons unique experiences to relax and unwind.

On the outside looking in

Fun during the day, but buzzing at night

Other Things to See in DeLand

If these things aren’t enough to keep a person busy, there are a couple of other opportunities to take in the city of DeLand.  Stop by the old courthouse and gaze up at the amazing architecture, or visit the Chess Park adjacent to the courthouse.  Chess pieces are not provided.

With so much to see and do in DeLand, it’s best to do a little research beforehand.  But it’s definitely a place to go to continue “celebrating all things Florida.”

Fort Desoto Park: Pinellas County

With more than 660 miles of beaches in Florida, there are plenty of places to throw down a beach blanket and put your toes in the sand.  When you’re looking around for that perfect spot, don’t forget to check some of the county parks – there are plenty of hidden treasures where you least expect them.  One of those gems, located along Florida’s Sun Coast, is Fort Desoto Park near St. Petersburg and the Sunshine Skyway Bridge.

The Park

Fort Desoto Park is the largest of the Pinellas County Parks with 1,136 acres encompassing five keys: Mullet Key, Madelaine Key, Bonne Fortune Key, St. Christopher Key, and St. Jean Key.  A drive around the park reveals an abundance of native plants, mangroves, wetlands and hundreds of species of birds.   The park is a popular destination for locals and tourists, with more than 2.5 million visitors a year.

The Fort 

The history of Fort Desoto dates back to 1,000 AD with the Tocobaga Indians and includes explorations by Spaniards, including Hernando DeSoto, in the 1500s. Perhaps the history it is most widely known for is its use during war time.  In the mid-1800s it was determined the area would make a good coastal defense area. Although there was not an actual fort, a blockade was set up during the Civil War by Union troops between Egmont and Mullet Key.  Confederate soldiers were spotted easily by troops at the top of the Egmont Key Lighthouse.

It wasn’t until 1898 and the Spanish American War, that construction of the fort began on the island.  The first phase, which took six months to complete, included a wharf out into Tampa Bay, as well as an office, mess hall and quarters for the workmen. Eight months later, the Mortar Battery was completed – under budget.

It’s interesting to note Fort DeSoto was never the site of a major battle and the mortars were never used in combat.  However, walking through the fort and touching the massive weapons causes you to only imagine what it would have been like for the troops stationed there, keeping watch and fighting the elements.  Make sure to read up on the history on display inside the fort.

The Beach and Pier

Aside from the history associated with Fort DeSoto, the park offers up beautiful beaches.  There are about seven miles of the park along the water, and three miles of that includes white sandy beaches.  Our latest visit took us to  North Beach where beach umbrellas dotted the shoreline and beach goers set up residence for the day.  The water was clear and calm, and the ocean floor was smooth – the perfect backdrop for a refreshing and relaxing day.

If you are more into fishing than sunbathing, there are also two piers at the park, where anglers of all ages cast their lines or their nets. Baitfish can be seen under the piers along with dolphins playing in the water.

A friendly word of caution: Untended fish left on the cleaning tables are fair game!

Activities

Besides the fort, the park offers numerous other amenities, from camping to boating and kayaking, to picnicking and hiking.  A ferry service also runs to Egmont Key, but it’s advised you make reservations before the day of your visit.  It takes about half an hour for the ferry ride over to the island but once there, visitors are met with great shelling and swimming.  There’s also another fort to explore on Egmont Key as well as a large population of gopher tortoises.

Whatever you choose to do, there are plenty of parking spaces, but arriving early guarantees a spot. The cost to get into the park is $5.00 per car.  It is well worth the price and the trip!

 

Fort Christmas Historical Park

The last time I visited Fort Christmas in Orange County was when my children were in elementary school and that was – well, let’s just say that was a long time ago.  As with all historical places, I have found I appreciate them more the older I get.

Fort Christmas Historical Park is located on Highway 50 between Orlando and Titusville.  It sits about two miles off 50 on County Road 420, or as the locals call it, Fort Christmas Road.  The park takes up 25 acres on the west side of the road and 119 on the east.  There is a lot to see and do at the park, so plan on staying awhile.

Replica of Fort Christmas 

Perhaps the centerpiece of the park is the full-size replica of Fort Christmas. The original fort was just a short distance away and was one of several posts built to store supplies for troops on their way south for fighting in the Second Seminole War.  The original fort was established December 25, 1837 and was abandoned less than four months later. The name lived on, however, as it became the name of the town of Christmas.

Entrance to replica of Fort Christmas

Just inside the entrance is the first of two blockhouses which served as lookouts, the general’s headquarters, and protection of the troops.  The second of the blockhouses sits on the opposite corner of the fort.

Building to the right of the entrance is one of two blockhouses.

These two structures now serve as museums and house artifacts of the time – from photos of prominent families to weaponry to  saddles, cowboy hats and other ranching necessities.

Also inside the stockade is a storehouse for holding the army rations and supplies as well as food staples. A powder magazine below ground level (for safety purposes) provides visitors with a look at how ammunition was stored.

Living History Settlement

A few steps away from the fort is the entrance to the village.  Imagine life in the late 1800s and early 1900s. No air conditioning, no inside plumbing.  One-room houses were the norm, although some were added onto over time for growing families.

The Yates House

Walking into any of these structures reminds you of how simple yet how tough life was at the turn of the century.  Netting around the beds.  Handmade quilts.  Living spaces with fireplaces.

Interior of one of the homes. Notice the netting over the beds and the cracks between the wood.

Living rooms served as family spaces.

Some of these houses also serve as exhibits.  The Simmons III Home also serves as the exhibit for the Fort Christmas Post Office…

While the Ranching Exhibit is housed inside the Beehead Ranch House.

Notice all of the brands on the hide on the floor

Other Historical Structures

As a former teacher, it’s always interesting to see how schools were once operated.  Stepping inside the Union School provided a look into a 1907 classroom. Named for the way it “united” several of the small schools in the area operated by families into one location, Union School was once just a one-room schoolhouse.

The Union School

An addition of a small room in the back of the school was made in the 1920s.  The desks are set in neat rows with reading books of various grade levels set on top of them.

Original room of the school

1920s addition

A lunchroom added in 1932 now serves as a kitchen exhibit for those visiting the park.

Other structures include the Partin Home – built in 1953 complete with indoor plumbing and electricity.  It is a far cry from their first home built 40 years before.  Their ‘50s barn is also adjacent to the house.

Partin Home

Recreational Amenities

The park provides visitors with other opportunities for fun and family time.  Take along your basketball or tennis rackets and have some friendly competition on the courts.  There’s also a playground, a 1920’s softball field and rentable pavilions where you can enjoy your lunches.

Whatever you do during your visit to the park, it’s sure to be both educational and fun.  The park is open during the summer from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. and in the winter from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.  Hours for the museum and homes are Tuesday through Sunday, from 9:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m.

 

Ponce Inlet Light Station and Museum

There are some locations that seem to beckon you to visit.  The Ponce Inlet Lighthouse is one of them.  Reaching 175 feet majestically into the sky, this red structure is the tallest lighthouse in the state, and second tallest masonry lighthouse in the United States, behind the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse in the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Ponce Inlet Lighthouse

The Lighthouse

The day we visited, the lighthouse wasn’t even on my radar.  (I’m certainly not one who would go climbing something that tall just for the fun of it!) Standing at the base and looking up, the lighthouse didn’t look that formidable.   But try climbing the 203 steps and you will definitely have a different opinion.  I know I did.  Thankfully, on the lower levels there were places to stop and catch our breath.  But as we got closer to the top, it felt like the walls were closing in.  No wonder.  Its 32-foot diameter base slowly shrinks to just 12 feet at the top.  Once there, though, the view – even on a cloudy day – is breathtaking – water everywhere you look.  After all, it is located ten miles south of Daytona Beach, where the Halifax River and Indian River flow into the Atlantic Ocean.

Looking out at the Atlantic Ocean

Ponce Inlet Light Station Museum

Construction on the lighthouse began in 1884 and was completed in 1887. Still an active lighthouse, it also serves as the focal point of the Ponce Inlet Light Station and Museum, which includes all of the original dwellings of the keepers as well as other support buildings.  Ponce Inlet is one of the only Light Stations in the United States that has these buildings intact.

Keeper’s Dwellings

There are three Keeper’s Dwellings that serve as the museum: Principal Keeper’s, First Assistant Keeper’s, and Second Assistant Keeper’s.  Each building provides visitors with a different piece of history.  The Principal Keeper’s Dwelling once was home to the principal keeper and his family. Now it houses exhibits about  lighthouses of the world, lighthouses for airplanes, and Native Americans in Florida, to name a few.

Principal Keeper’s Dwelling

The First Assistant’s Dwelling is not open for actual tours, but can be seen through viewing panels on the front and back porches.  It was named in honor of Gladys Meyer Davis whose father served as the last Lighthouse Service Principal Keeper at the lighthouse.  The building is furnished as it would have been in the late 1800s or early 1900s. In the Second Assistant Keeper’s Dwelling, visitors can learn more about the local community, from beach racing to the lives of the keepers and their families.  This building actually served as the first town hall for Ponce Inlet in the early 1960s.

First Assistant’s Dwelling

Lens Exhibit

A visit to the lighthouse wouldn’t be complete with going inside of the Lens Exhibit Building.  Before this trip, I did not know about the different types of lenses that are used in lighthouses.  I still don’t know a lot, but what I do know, is this is an impressive collection.  The rotating first order Fresnel lens from the Cape Canaveral Lighthouse is on display as well as the original fixed first order Fresnel lens that was used from 1887 – 1933 in the Ponce Inlet Lighthouse.

Some of the lenses on display

Sign explaining the history of the Cape Canaveral lens

Learn more about the history of Ponce Inlet Lighthouse through other exhibits onsite.  The Ponce De Leon Inlet Light Station and Museum is open daily from 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.  From Memorial Day to Labor Day the hours are extended until 9:00 p.m. with the last tour beginning at 8:00 p.m.  There is an entrance fee which you pay inside the gift shop.

 

Floridiana Magazine (FM) Footnotes:

The Light Station and Museum is operated by the Ponce De Leon Inlet Lighthouse Preservation Association, Inc.  It was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1998 and is now visited by more than 170,000 people a year.

According to the Florida Lighthouse Association, there are 30 lighthouses in Florida and preserving all of them would take nearly $20 million dollars.

For those who visit lighthouses on a regular basis, visit United States Lighthouse Society Passport Program and join the free Passport Club.  There is a charge to actually purchase your passport. Information on that is also available on the website.