Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

Trapper Nelson’s Zoo and Jungle Gardens

If you’ve been following along with our adventures, you know that many of them take us off the beaten path. Well, recently that changed. Instead of a path, it was a river. The destination?  An old tourist attraction even Tarzan would appreciate.

Trapper Nelson Interpretive Site

Three miles down the Loxahatchee River, where it meanders through the Jonathan Dickinson State Park in Hobe Sound, is Trapper Nelson’s Zoo and Jungle Garden, or what is left of it. The site is accessible only by canoe, boat or by tour boat.  On the day of our visit, we chose the tour boat, the Loxahatchee Queen III, piloted that day by Captain Dan.  The slow excursion offered views of tropical vegetation and wildlife – manatees lazily gliding through the water, an eagle soaring above, an osprey perched in a dead tree and an alligator hiding along the shore line.    

Osprey
Alligator 

Damsel Fly hitchhiking on the Loxahatchee Queen III

As our tour boat turned around near Trapper’s camp, we were dropped off near the original boat dock built by Nelson. Stepping off the boat, a park staff member greeted us and took us on a walking tour of Nelson’s camp. The hand-built Chickee hut, a water tower and Trapper’s cabin still stand. Inside the cabin, a museum of sorts is set up to portray Trapper’s life and his eccentricities. Photos of his early life on the river, his military career, and other memorabilia are on display for present-day visitors to see. A framed photo of coins found by park rangers during restoration supports the tales that Trapper was known for hiding money around his property. In 1984, more than 5,000 coins worth about $1,800 were discovered when mortar was pulled away near his fireplace.

Original boat dock built by Trapper Nelson
Huts
Water Tower 
One of two cabins on site
Memorabilia on display inside the cabin
Faded photo of coins found during camp restoration

Woodpiles still stand, a testament to the amount of wood Trapper would chop for himself.  A guest cabin that once welcomed visitors to the camp, is relatively bare, stripped clean by vandals following Nelson’s death. Many of the cages Nelson built to house the animals are still on the property.  Signs on the cages indicate what was once there – alligators, wildcats, and raccoons.

Wood pile 
The zoo 
Nelson’s Jeep on display

History of Trapper Nelson’s Zoo and Jungle Garden 

Trapper Nelson (aka Vincent Natulkiewicz) made his way to the area from New Jersey, accompanied by his brother Charlie and a friend, first heading west to Colorado by way of boxcars, and then to Mexico. It was there where Trapper was detained by Mexican officials on suspicion of gun-running.  His brother and friend were not captured.  Several weeks later, and with no real evidence against him, Nelson was released.  His next venture west to California proved to be unsuccessful and after a few weeks, he decided to return to New Jersey to meet up with his brother and friend.  It didn’t take long for the trio to decide to head south, eventually ending up in Jupiter.

Upon his arrival in 1931, he settled into a temporary hunting camp near the Jupiter Inlet, where he lived off the land, trapping animals and selling their hides. However, development meant less game, so in 1933 Nelson traveled up the Loxahatchee in a rowboat and set up his homestead where it is today.  Nelson continued to live off the land and would row nine miles to Jupiter to pick up his mail, buy supplies and sell his wares.  Although Nelson was considered a loner, as people learned of his camp, he became known as the “Wildman of the Loxahatchee.” It is said he could be seen jumping from a rope swing into the river.

Trapper Nelson with one of his alligators. 
Photo courtesy of Jonathan Dickinson State Park

In the mid-1940s, Nelson turned his property into a wildlife zoo.  For the next 15 years or so, visitors from around the world came to see him wrestle alligators and wrap himself up in snakes. Folks who visited the site could stay in one of his cabins, buy souvenirs or rent rowboats, and of course, get a close up look at the many animals he had trapped.  Nelson used a lot of his profits buying up land at tax sales.  In all, he purchased nearly 1,000 acres along the river. 

Trapper chose to close his attraction to tourists in the early 1960s, citing his distrust of people, and ongoing rules and regulations by the state to keep it open.  A sign still hangs on one of the trees over the river warning people to keep out.  It is rumored that he would take shots at people who ventured too close.

The words are no longer visible, but what appear to be bullet holes remain

Little was heard from Trapper Nelson from the time he closed his zoo until he was found shot to death in 1968, his shotgun beside him.  Authorities ruled his death a suicide, although there are still some folks who believe he was a victim of foul play.

During his life, Nelson was actively engaged in efforts to preserve the Loxahatchee River and protect his land. After his death, his estate was sold to a developer, but a land swap with the Florida Park Service made it part of Jonathan Dickinson State Park, where it has been preserved and protected.

Hours 

Trapper’s is open 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., 7 days a week,although the schedule may vary throughout the year.  If you are going specifically for the tour,call at 561-746-1466 or visit their website.  In addition to the cost of park admission, the ride on the Loxahatchee Queen III is $24 for adults, $14 for children 3 – 12, and free for children under 3.

FM Notes:  While researching for this article, I came across the book “Life and Death on the Loxahatchee: The Story of Trapper Nelson” by James D. Snyder.  The book includes interviews with Nelson’s surviving family members, along with photos from Nelson’s scrapbook found at the bottom of a file cabinet in the Park Service, and transcribed letters from Trapper Nelson to his family from 1951-1968. The latest printing was 2007 and is a must-read for those interested in Trapper Nelson’s story.

Nelson planted a variety of tropical fruit and vegetation 
Bamboo 

 

Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse and Museum

Before there were towns, or roads or railroads in Palm Beach County, there was the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse.  This red and black lighthouse has been lighting the way along Florida’s East Coast since July 10, 1860.  Built on a natural sand hill, the lighthouse itself is 108 feet tall and can be seen 24 miles out at sea. Just think about it, for more than 150 years ships have used the lighthouse’s beacon to guide them safely around the Gulf Stream and away from reefs and shoals.

History of Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse

Because of its location at the junction of the Indian River and Jupiter Inlet, in 1849 army surveyors recommended the Jupiter Inlet as a strategic and appropriate place for military defenses. After President Franklin Pierce signed an order to set aside the 61 ½ acres for a lighthouse, Lieutenant George Meade designed the structure, and Lieutenant William Raynolds improved the strength with the design of a double wall.  The lighthouse is comprised of a tower and an iron top, or lantern.  The first-order Fresnel (fray-nel) lens in operation is said to be the oldest existing first-order Fresnel lens in Florida and is one of only 13 active in the United States.

In 1973 the lighthouse was placed on the National Register of Historic Places, then in 1974, it was opened to public tours by the Loxahatchee River Historical Society.

Climbing the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse

Before you even get inside, there are 34 steps you have to climb just to get to the base of the lighthouse. Those are the easy ones.  Once inside, there are 105 steep iron stairs – 100 of them date back to 1860, five were replaced in 2000.

As you work your way to the top, there are three landings that not only provide a chance to catch your breath, but also a look out in different directions.  Those views themselves are amazing, but the views from the top are out of this world.  Walk around the top and see the Atlantic Ocean, the Indian River, Jupiter Inlet and the Loxahatchee River.  On a clear day, you can see for miles.

Other Things to See at the Lighthouse

While the lighthouse is the centerpiece of the property, there are other things to see during your visit.

Keepers’ Workshop and Exhibit

Just off the deck by the lighthouse you will find the Keepers’ Workshop and Exhibit “Keeping the Light at Jupiter Inlet.” Once inside, pick up an adventure map that will take you back in time for a look at the early years of the lighthouse.  Each of the eight “stations” depicted on the map provides information about the lighthouse.  Find out why Jupiter has a lighthouse, a timeline of the lighthouse, how the lighthouse works, or stories of some of the keepers.

Prior to becoming a workshop and exhibit, the building served as a pump house and paint storage locker.  It was built in 1929, but then rebuilt and expanded in 1929 after a major hurricane.

Banyan Tree and Deck

As you walk up the pathway to the lighthouse, the limbs of a large banyan tree reach out in every direction, offering shade to a wooden deck built over the foundation of the original keepers’ house.  Even though it may look like there are several trees, there is only one! The hair-like roots on this 85-year-old tree reach back to the ground, take hold and form new tree trunks.

Tindall House

The house was built in 1892 by George Tindall and is believed to be one of the oldest houses in Palm Beach County.  Originally, the house was located along the Loxahatchee River several miles west of its current location.  It was moved in 1997 to Burt Reynolds Park, then again in 2007 to its final home in Lighthouse Park.  The main portion of the house features four rooms: living room, parlor, bedroom and workroom.  True to style for cracker houses, the Tindall house is elevated off the ground, has high ceilings, and large windows.  Off the back of the house is a replica of the kitchen and dining area, separated from the main part of the house to cut back on heat and potential fires to the remainder of the house.  The interior is furnished with photos of the family, as well as donated items from the 1900s.

Pennock Plantation Bell

Protected from the elements under a wooden roof, the Pennock Plantation Bell has a history of its own.  The bell was used to signal lunch break or the end of a work day at the Pennock Plantation.  It would ring once on those occasions, then continuously when the volunteer fire department was needed. The Pennocks are some of the early pioneers of Jupiter, arriving in 1902 and starting a fern business, as well as a dairy farm. During the first half of the 20th century, the Pennock Plantation was the largest employer in Jupiter.

Plants

As you walk along the brick path, make sure to stop and take a look at the many plants along the way.  Some of them are native to Florida, while others are not.  Wild coffee, muhly grass, dune sunflowers, and beauty berries are all native.  Although agave is found mostly in Mexico and the American Southwest, the dry, sandy soil of Florida is also conducive to its growth. Agave has been growing at the Jupiter Lighthouse for more than 100 years.

Museum and Gift Shop

Before you leave, make sure to check out the museum and gift shop.  The museum, housed inside the 1940 WII Naval Housing Building, offers the exhibit “5,000 Years on the Loxahatchee.”  Eight galleries provide additional information on the lighthouse, maritime history and notable individuals from the area.

 

Self-guided Tour App

If you opt to explore the grounds without a tour guide, there is an App you can download that ensures you don’t miss anything!  Starting from the welcome gate, you are guided on a journey through the history of early Native Americans and the Seminole Indians in the area.  Interpretive readings from period journals provide personal recollections of the life and times of early settlers.

The App provides information on some of the best areas for taking photos, as well as points of interest along the brick path.

 

Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse and Museum Hours

The Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse and Museum is located at 500 Captain Armour’s Way in Jupiter and is open 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.  The last lighthouse grounds admission is at 4:00 p.m. Guided docent tours are held at 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.  Note that the lighthouse is open Tuesday – Sunday, May through December and seven days a week from January to April.

There is a $12 admission fee for adults, $6 for children 6 – 18, and no charge for children five and under.  Special rates are available for U.S. Veterans and senior 60 and over. Children must be 48” to climb.

 

 

 

 

Leave Your Credit Cards at Home

Honors System in Florida

It’s hard to believe that in 2018, the honors system is alive and well in Florida.  You see it at some state and county parks where envelopes and collection boxes are used for entrance fees.  But what about private businesses that offer up products for you to buy without someone there to ring you up?  It may sound like a risky venture, but these business owners say most people are good and honest.

In our travels, we have come across several businesses operating on the honors system, all of them honey stands.  Located along backroads, or along highways through the rural parts of the state, these businesses are reminiscent of a much simpler time in Florida.

Putnam County

Biggers Apiaries Honey Stand

After hearing about a honey stand selling through the honors system in Putnam County, we decided to see what the buzz was all about and visit during one of our trips to Palatka.  For more than 70 years, the Biggers Apiaries Honey Stand has been selling its honey from the side of Highway 100 in San Mateo.  The old wooden structure is showing its age, but the honey is as plentiful and sweet as ever.  Jars of palmetto, gallberry, orange blossom, and wildflower honey line the shelves.  Tables in front also hold additional items, like cane syrup and pumpkin butter. A yellow sign with large red letters tells visitors to “Put money in the box.”

A small outdoor store now sits next to the roadside stand.  Lawn ornaments, additional honey, jams and jellies can be found inside.  If it is open, someone is inside to take your money.  But if you’re only looking for the honey, you don’t need to go any further than the old stand outside.

Central Florida

Homeland, Florida

South of Bartow, along SR 640 West off Highway 17/98, sits a small wooden red structure, one of the newer honor system locations we have found.  It looks like any other roadside stand, but there is no one there to welcome you or sell you the product.  The counter is lined with jars of raw honey – various sizes, various prices. Signs hanging on the back wall provide further instructions if you are looking to buy larger sizes.

If you like what you see, and the price is right, put the money in the slot on the cash box and you are done.

Lake Wales, Florida

Struthers’ Honey

About 15 minutes east of Highway 27, along Highway 60, is perhaps the state’s oldest honey store working off the honor system, opening for business in 1935.  Sitting just off the highway about 10 miles east of Lake Wales, Struthers’ Honey welcomes visitors with a quaint front porch that opens into a small store.  On the back wall, tiered shelves hold jars of honey, honey candy, bee pollen, and bees wax.  The yellow walls are adorned with old family photos revealing the history of the business, as well as various other framed posters and prints paying homage to the bee.  In the middle of the floor is a table-size box with a tiny slot for you to pay for your purchases.

Arriving early on a Saturday morning, we were lucky to be in the store when Alden Struthers entered to restock the shelves.  Alden is a fourth-generation beekeeper, taking over the business from his father.  (Alden’s son and grandsons are also working in the business.) His down-home hospitality provided an unexpected first-hand history of the business, as well as a lesson in beekeeping.

Alden Struthers, 4th Generation Beekeeper

One of the photos on the wall is with Alden wearing a beard of bees, something he says he was coaxed into doing by his brothers when he reached the age of 50.  Another picture is of his older brother donning the same kind of beard.

Struthers and his “bee beard”

Alden told us, even though most people are honest and pay for what they take, the cash table was stolen years ago when the store front faced the highway before it was four-laned.  The cash box, which had $25 in it, was found later in a nearby creek. It took a day and a half to get it out.

 

Money slot

There are probably more of these honors systems businesses throughout the state, but like other “old Florida” traditions and culture, they are not as prevalent as they once were.

Have you been to any other honors systems locations in Florida?  If so, leave a comment and tell us were they are.

 

Things to See and Do in Apalachicola

There are some places you can visit over and over again and not see everything there is to see or do everything there is to do.  Those same places change over time and, from one visit to the next, may not offer the same “landmarks” you made it a point to see.  One such town is Apalachicola, on Florida’s Forgotten Coast.  As its name translates, it is the “land of the friendly people.”

Brief History of Apalachicola

Even though Apalachicola wasn’t settled until the 1820s, its history goes back much further – Native Americans thousands of years ago, along with European influence by the Spanish and English.  Florida was ceded to United States in 1821.  Originally named Cottonton, then incorporated as West Point, it was renamed Apalachicola in 1831.

As you drive over the bridge on US 98 heading west, the history of Apalachicola is easy to understand.  Its location along the Apalachicola River where it meets Apalachicola Bay, set this town up as a port for shipping – making it at one time the third largest cotton shipping port on the Gulf of Mexico.  Besides cotton, Apalachicola also thrived in the sponge and timber industries.  The sponge trade, beginning in the 1870s, became the third largest in the state.  One of the original sponge warehouses, The Sponge Exchange, remains in downtown Apalachicola.

Another major industry in Apalachicola, and one that remains today, is the seafood industry. Apalachicola is known throughout the United States for its oysters.

Historic Homes in Apalachicola

A drive through the historic district of Apalachicola is like a drive back in time. There are more than 900 historic homes, buildings and other sites within the district to see, ten of them designated as Florida Heritage Landmarks. A couple you don’t want to miss include the Dr. Alvan W. Chapman House, the Hanserd-Fry House, and perhaps the most famous in Apalachicola, the Orman House.

Dr. Alvan W. Chapman House – This house was built in 1847 for Dr. Chapman who, besides being a physician, was also a botanist.  He is known for his research and writings on the flora of the South.  Chapman was very active in Apalachicola, having served as county judge, mayor and collector of customs.

Hanserd-Fry House –  Located on 5th Street, the Hanserd-Fry House was built around 1845 and served as the residence of several individuals.  The first-known owner was Joseph Hanserd who lived there as early as 1866, followed by Kate Ayers in 1872, with Captain Weber Fry buying it in 1880.  Fry was a riverboat captain on the Apalachicola River. The house served as the Apalachicola Museum of Art from 2006 – 2016 and now is the office and visitor center for the St. Vincent National Wildlife Refuge.

The Orman House – The Orman House is a Florida State Park and sits on a bluff overlooking the Apalachicola River. It is a must see on a visit to Apalachicola.  The house was built in 1838 by Thomas Orman, a cotton merchant and businessman credited with being a key to the success of the town.

Touring this stately home takes you back to the 1800s.  As you walk through the house, you get a glimpse of the Orman family lifestyle.  The house is filled with old family photographs, period fashion, ornate fixtures, a formal dining room, a child’s room and so much more.

Outside you can catch a glimpse of an old barn, one of the original servants’ houses, and take a tour of the gardens.

Guided tours are available Thursday through Monday for a $2.00 charge.  It is closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.

Other Things to See and Do in Apalachicola

Three Soldiers Detail Statue

In front of the Gorman House sits Veterans Memorial Park, with the Three Soldiers Detail Statue as its centerpiece.  The statue was dedicated in 2008 as a tribute to Vietnam Veterans from the south. Cast from the original molds of the statue located at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this statue is lifelike and humbling.

John Gorrie Museum State Park

Also known as the Ice Box Museum, this museum pays tribute to John Gorrie, a physician who moved to Apalachicola in the early 1830s. Gorrie was concerned for his yellow fever patients and wanted to find a way to cool their rooms.  As a result, he invented a mechanical device that produced ice, and received the first U.S. Patent for mechanical refrigeration in 1851.

Apalachicola Riverfront Park  

Riverfront Park overlooks the Apalachicola River and offers up a little more of the town’s history.  Read up on the sponge industry, watch the fishing boats go by or just enjoy sitting by the fountain.  The park also serves as the backdrop for many of the local events.

Fun Shops

There are always those stores in town you don’t want to miss.  In Apalachicola, it is The Tin Shed.  If you’re looking for something nautical, this is the place.  Don’t forget to stop by the buoy wall – it’s a popular place for photos.  (Note: Since this post was written originally, The Tin Shed has moved locations and the buoy wall is no longer there.)

Food and Drinks

With seafood as its main industry, Apalachicola serves up some great food in its many restaurants. One of our favorites is the Up the Creek Raw Bar.  Whether you sit inside or choose one of the tables outside, the food and the views are good.

While you’re in Apalachicola, don’t forget to stop by the Olde Time Soda Fountain.  It’s been dishing up these delicious treats since 1905.  Take your seat at the counter and order from a variety of flavors or shakes.  A great place to take the kids, but a word of warning, there are a lot of fun items in the gift shop that they’ll want to take home!

For the adults, make a stop by Oyster City Brewing Company on Avenue D.  If you’re looking for a cold beer brewed right here in Apalachicola, make plans to stop by.

Gone but Not Forgotten – The Venezellos

The few times I have visited Apalachicola always involved a stop in front of the Venezellos at the corner of Avenue E and Water Street.  The boat was built in 1915 in Apalachicola by Demo George (Demosthenes George Margomenos).  It always provided a great subject for photographs, even in its weathered state.  With each visit, the boat showed a little more wear.  A few more boards were rotten, the weeds grew taller.  Then, in October 2017, the boat was taken apart and removed.  A Facebook page has been set up by Demo George’s family to remember the boat through photos.

Fun Fact

Bing Crosby recorded the song “Apalachicola, F-L-A” in 1947 with the Andrews Sisters after meeting professional baseball player and Apalachicola native Jimmy Bloodworth.  Crosby was partial owner of the Pittsburgh Pirates and met Bloodworth in 1946, when he played for the Pirates.  When asked where he was from, Bloodworth said, “Apalachicola, F-L-A!”  The song was used in the move “The Road to Rio” starring Bing Crosby and Bob Hope.

For your listening enjoyment, Bing Crosby singing Apalachicola, F-L-A.

There are so many things to see and do in Apalachicola, one trip isn’t enough.  Two trips probably aren’t enough either.  History, food, shopping and so much more await the Florida explorer in all of us.

Photo Gallery from Apalachicola

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

The Florida Highwaymen

Growing up in a home filled with paintings and paint supplies provided me with a deeper understanding and appreciation for art.  Canvases lined our back room.  Some were framed and finished.  Some were not.  Those paintings stood waiting for that one extra paint stroke to be added to a tree, a river, or a deer. I didn’t realize it at the time, but one of those paintings was done with the instruction of Robert Butler, a Florida Highwayman, at a day-long class that my mom, Nancy, took in 1990.

Painting by Nancy Collins (Mom) under the instruction of Robert Butler

Signature, Instructor Robert Butler, 1990

Mom remembers the painting class from 28 years ago at a local art studio like it was yesterday. “He painted from his head,” she says, “from memory of things he had seen.  He taught me a lot about painting Florida landscapes.”

Butler passed away in 2014, and like other Florida Highwaymen, left an indelible mark on many artists and art lovers.

The Highwaymen – Then

Although they did not acquire the name “The Highwaymen” until years later, the group consisted of 25 men and one woman, all African-American, who painted Florida landscapes from the mid-1950s through the mid-1980s.

Inspiration for these artists initially came from A.E. “Bean” Backus, a popular landscape artist at the time.  One of the founders of the Highwaymen, Alfred Hair, met Backus during a school field trip to his studio, went to work for him building canvases, and learned to paint. Hair took Backus’ techniques and tweaked them to meet his own needs of making money in a short period of time.

Carports, sheds and backyards in the Fort Pierce area served as painting studios.  Upson board, a popular building material at the time, and oil-based paint were the supplies of choice.  At a time when segregation was the norm, galleries would not accept their paintings, so the artists sold out of their trunks along Florida highways – mostly on A1A and U.S. 1 from Daytona Beach to Miami – and door-to-door to motels, doctors’ offices, banks, real estate offices and other businesses.  The paintings brought in about $20 each and provided an alternative to working minimum wage jobs or picking citrus.

Highwaymen paintings all exhibit the same characteristics: Florida the way it was before development took over.  Vibrant red Poinciana trees, moss hanging from cypress trees, and palm trees swaying in the breeze of a calm summer day or blowing during a raging Florida storm are the subjects of many of the paintings.  So too, are sunrises and sunsets, marshlands and native Florida wildlife.

The Highwaymen – Now

Of the original 26 Highwaymen, only half are still living, some of them still appearing at events around the state.  At a recent Meet and Greet at the Orange County Regional History Center, six of the original artists displayed and sold their paintings, posed for photographs and signed autographs.

Al Black

Al Black and Doris Keeler (Writer/Blogger)

Al Black, 71, was the original “salesman” for Alfred Hair.  In the early days, Black did not want to paint – he wanted to sell, and that’s what he did.   He loaded Hair’s paintings up in his car, often wet, and went on the road to sell them.  Because the paintings were wet, they were sometimes damaged in the trunk and Black would touch them up before selling them.  That led to his own interest in painting, and after Hair’s death, he painted and sold his own artwork.

The journey has not been easy for this Highwayman.  In the 1980s, the demand for the paintings dried up and Black got caught up in cocaine.  After an arrest and conviction, he spent 12 years in prison.

“When I first went in, I was coming out in the papers.  Everyday I was in the paper,” Black says. “The warden walked up to me and said, ‘are you Al Black, the one I’m reading about in these books?’ I said, ‘Yes sir!’”

That one question and answer led to Black painting more than 100 murals on the walls of the Central Florida Reception Center in Orange County and the Tomoka Correction Institute in Daytona Beach.  His talents were also requested at the Zephyrhills Correctional Institution, and he went there to paint for them.

Black was released from prison in 2009, during which time he says he found God.  His later paintings all have one thing in common – three birds, representing the Trinity.

A small sampling of Black’s paintings. Do you see the three birds in each one?

Today he lives in Fort Pierce, paints and travels with the others.  He is quick to strike up a conversation, but when someone is wanting to buy a painting, that takes precedence, and he stops to sign his work. Even now, Black is surprised at the notoriety of the Highwaymen.

“I never thought it would be like this.” 

Al Black stops to sign a painting purchased at the show

Mary Ann Carroll, “Highwaywoman”

Mary Ann Carroll at her display

Mary Ann Carroll is the only female in the Highwaymen, but she says that doesn’t bother her. “I don’t feel like a queen. I don’t feel any different, I just feel alright,” she says.

Carroll, now 78, remembers those early days well.  She was taken in by Harold Newton and Livingston “Castro” Roberts, who she says she could talk to anytime about anything.  Carroll is grateful for the ability to paint.

“I just thank God for the gifts he gave me. I was blessed coming up.  I didn’t know I would have to raise my children as a single parent.”

Carroll sold her first painting when she was 18 years old. Although Al Black would take some of her paintings on the road, she would often go solo and sell them herself.  Like other Highwaymen, her paintings feature Florida sunsets, waves crashing onto the beach and palm trees, all in vibrant colors.

Collage of Carroll’s paintings on note cards

Besides painting, Carroll also had other jobs to help support her family, including carpentry and house painting. Today, Carroll lives in Fort Pierce and makes appearances at various events around the state.

 Robert Lewis

Robert Lewis is one of the more active Highwaymen and can often be found at community events. While his paintings on display are a sight to behold, the biggest attraction is watching him put brush to canvas. An easel holds a current painting he is working on – a landscape with trees, a dirt path, and a pond.  One of his fans, who has undoubtedly met him before, tells him the left side of the canvas is a little barren.  After looking at it, he agrees and paints in another tree.

Robert Lewis surveys his painting

Lewis adds in a tree at the advice of a fan

While most of the other Highwaymen were self-taught, Lewis graduated college in 1966 with a degree in art education and went on to teach art in school and in college. He never painted with the Highwaymen but knew several of the members and painted on Upson board like the others. Because of his education, his paintings include more wide-ranging subjects than others.

Someone in the crowd that has gathered around to watch him paint says, “You look good.  What is your secret?”

Lewis answers quickly, “I paint!”

 R.A. Roy McLendon

Once an artist, always an artist, and at 86 years old, Roy McLendon still paints. His wooden easel reveals years of paint choices and color mixing.  His paintings reveal more than just landscapes and nature.  They portray people as being a part of the landscape.

McLendon includes people in his landscapes

Tools of the trade

At 86, McLendon continues his painting

Curtis Arnett

At 68, Arnett is one of the youngest of the Highwaymen.  With an early interest in art, he began experimenting with paint after a visit to his high school by Alfred Hair. Arnett also got to know Bean Backus and later Robert Butler. Unlike other Highwaymen, Arnett painted with acrylics instead of oil-based paint.  His paintings feature hammocks, swamps and cypress trees.

Curtis Arnett, Photo Courtesy of www.TheHighwaymenTrail.com

Isaac Knight

Isaac Knight sits to the side of his display of large and small paintings. Like fellow painter Al Black, Knight started out selling paintings, but discovered there was more money to be made in painting and selling his own.  He and Black painted what they saw the others painting and used tips they received from Bean Backus to create their own landscapes.  Although he still likes painting with bright colors, Knight’s signature style is now his black and white paintings.

Isaac Knight with paintings

From Roadside to Gallery

The Highwaymen’s paintings offer glimpses of Florida many people will never experience – open spaces, wildlife roaming freely.  Some of them still paint every day, others a few times a week. Their shows are well-attended, by those curious about the Highwaymen, or those who are knowledgeable about the art and the artists.

Times have certainly changed.  Paintings that were once sold along the side of the road for $20 – $30 are now selling for thousands of dollars in galleries and antique stores.  What started as a group of painters just trying to make a living has evolved into an era in Florida’s art history that spanned a 30-year period with more than 200,000 paintings.

 

Additional Highwaymen Resources

The Highwaymen Heritage Trail – A trail in Fort Pierce that features 10 stops of significance to the Highwaymen.

Florida Eats: Beefy King – Serving Roast Beef Sandwiches for 50 Years

At a time when fast food and chain restaurants offer dining options for nearly every preference, family-owned and operated establishments can get overlooked.  Unless, of course, they are part of a community’s culture.

One such eatery has established itself as an Orlando landmark and is celebrating its 50th anniversary this month: Beefy King.

History of Beefy King

Beefy King served its first roast beef sandwiches in 1968 in Orlando. The restaurant’s founder, Tom Viegle, came up with the idea during a trip to New York City where he visited a similar restaurant and decided it could be the next big hit for the restaurant industry.  Within a year of opening, Viegle sold the business to Freeman and Margaret Smith, whose grandchildren now run the restaurant. Although the company expanded and went public, it never took off as a franchise.  Only one Beefy King remained open – the original restaurant on Bumby Avenue.

The Ambience

The inside of Beefy King is what you’d expect for a sandwich shop.  A stainless-steel counter just inside the door serves as the hub of the restaurant and a large menu board hangs on the paneled back wall. Booths and tables offer an informal place to sit, and sauces and other condiments at a do-it-yourself station provide variety for diners. Service is typically fast and employees are friendly.

On the Menu

The menu boasts being the “Home of the Real Roast Beef Sandwich,” but over the years has expanded to include ham, turkey, pastrami and corned beef.  The sandwiches come with just meat and a bun, but can be made to order with lettuce, onions, cheese and tomatoes.  Meal deals and platters come with spuds (tater tots) and a drink. Other options are available, whether it’s combo sandwiches with two meats, or salads.  If you can’t figure out what to order, go with the roast beef.  It’s the star attraction and the recommendation for all first-timers to the restaurant.  The meat is fresh and delicious, and the spuds are crunchy.

Beefy King’s Hours

Beefy King is located at 424 North Bumby Avenue, between Colonial Drive and Robinson Street.  It is open Monday through Friday fro 10:00 a.m. until 5:30 p.m. and on Saturday, from 11:00 a.m. until 3:00 p.m.  Beefy King is closed on Sunday.

FM Notes: For its 50th anniversary, Saturday, June 2, Beefy King is offering a 50% discount for the original beef and ham sandwiches, tater tots and soda. Given the popularity of this restaurant on a regular day, you can expect to stand in line or wait in the drive through a little longer.  Fifty years is a big deal, so if you’ve got the time, stop by and join the celebration.

The Orange Shop, Citra

Tucked away in North Central Florida, between Ocala and Hawthorne, is the small town of Citra.  It’s not a place with its own exit off Interstate 75.  In fact, unless you drive along Highway 301 or live in the area, you probably do not even know it exists.

Citra, known as the home of the pineapple orange, was founded in 1881 in an area where citrus was prominent.  While that is part of the town’s history, it isn’t the only unique feature about Citra. It is also the home of The Orange Shop, one of the last true roadside citrus stands in Florida.

Billboards and signs along 301 direct you to the shop, which sits at the intersection with Northeast 185 Street.  A grove, packing house and store all occupy the same piece of land. While some of the fruit for The Orange Shop is grown on-site, some is also brought in from the Indian River area.

The Orange Shop has been in business since 1936.  The owners are third-generation growers who continue to harvest fruit from groves that have been producing since the Civil War.  Bright orange columns welcome you onto the front porch, a part of the building with its own story.  When automobiles became the mode of transportation in the 1930s, fruit was sold from the front porch of the house to motorists who stopped by.  That porch has been kept intact since the beginning and still serves as the entry way, flanked with bags of fresh oranges that seem to say “Welcome to Florida.”

The store is exactly what you’d expect.  If it isn’t citrus-related, it is Florida-related.  Along the wall just inside the door, guests can choose from a plethora of items bearing The Orange Shop name and logo.

In another part of the store, additional items offer up Florida flavor, from an assortment of chutney and conserves to orange blossom honey.  If you’re looking to ship some Florida sunshine to out of state friends or family, sample gift boxes are displayed to provide examples of what’s available.

For visitors wanting to pick up some good reads, a book shelf spotlights numerous books about Florida or written by Floridians. Florida literature buffs will recognize one of the authors, Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, who lived less than ten miles away along Orange Lake.  Rawlings books Cross Creek, The Yearling and a cookbook are a few of the books for sale.  Other cookbooks, children’s books and books about Florida ghosts fill out the shelves.

The Orange Shop also offers up a true taste of Florida.  Make sure to try out an orange or grapefruit wedge or a sample of liquid sunshine – all available to purchase onsite. Friendly staff are on hand to help out with any of your needs.

The Orange Shop is open seven days a week from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., except for Thanksgiving, Christmas and Easter. Due to the seasonal nature of citrus, the shop is open from October 15 to June 1, so if you want to stop by, plan your trip accordingly.

Florida Eats: Desert Inn (CLOSED)

If you’ve ever traveled the Florida turnpike, you’ve likely seen the sign for Yeehaw Junction about 65 miles south of Orlando.  The question is, have you ever been curious enough to venture off the highway to see what’s there?  If not, you should.  If you have, then you already know about the Desert Inn – once a must see for those looking for a taste of old Florida.

Unfortunately, the building was demolished last year after extensive damages caused by a semi tractor-trailer crashing into it in 2019.

The Desert Inn once sat at the busy intersection of Highway 60 and U.S. 441 and was a favorite lunch and dinner spot for locals, tourists and bikers out for their weekend rides. The Inn also offered rentals for those looking for a place to stay in the area.

Desert Inn History

The Desert Inn was established as a trading post in the late 1880s.  The current building can be traced to before 1925 when it served as a respite for cattlemen and lumbermen after long days of hard work. With the construction of roads in the 1930s, the Desert Inn saw an increase in the number of tourists who stopped by.  Then in the 50s, the turnpike was built, an exit added, and the name officially became Yeehaw Junction. (The area was known by several names in its early years: Crossroads, Jackass Crossing, and the Crossing.)  In 1994, the Desert Inn was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The Ambience

The minute you walk up to the Desert Inn, its unique character is apparent, an old gas pump on one side, a “Jackass Crossing” sign on the other.  Inside, it’s just as eclectic – from the dollar bills attached to the U-shaped bar, to the old fortune telling machine in one corner and the Native American family in another.

If you visit the women’s bathroom, don’t be surprised to see a life-size male mannequin, his shirt signed by visitors to the restaurant.  (I had heard about the mannequin but was still taken aback when I walked in!)

On the Menu

A menu board is propped up in one of the windows and offers some tasty dining options. When asked for a recommendation, the waitress said the hamburgers and the fried green tomatoes are favorite dishes.

We chose the burgers – a plain burger and a bacon burger – both of which were cooked to perfection.  A nice change to a traditional burger was the bread.  Fresh ciabatta bread kept the burger together and mess-free. (I don’t know how many times I’ve had a burger and it has fallen apart because of the hamburger bun.)  Crisp hot fries rounded out our lunch, along with a cold beer.

Paying the bill is just as unique as the restaurant itself.  A mouse trap holding your tab is delivered to your table.  As for the prices?  Comparable to other restaurants this size, but worth the atmosphere.  We were able to eat for less than $40 before a tip.

If you are looking for fast food, this is not the place.  A sign outside lets you know before you walk in that if you’re in a hurry, a Mickey D’s can be found 30 – 50 miles in any direction!  The service was prompt but laid back.  The meal was tasty, and the experience was worth venturing off the highway.

 

Richloam General Store

Sometimes you are lucky to stumble upon a Florida gem simply by venturing away from the highways and taking the backroads.  But other times, it takes a small nugget of knowledge to direct you to a slice of Florida history you otherwise would not have seen.

Such is the case with the Richloam General Store, tucked away in the Withlacoochee State Forest in Hernando County. I heard about this little treasure through a friend on social media who said it was a place I needed to visit.

Where is the Richloam General Store?

The store sits south of State Road 50 on Richloam Clay Sink Road, about three miles east of U.S. 301. A small sign on this narrow winding road indicates you are approaching the Historic Richloam General Store.

Who would have known that a short distance from a main east-west highway through Florida sits a store that pays homage to the community’s past?  The front of the store is quaint and inviting.  Rocking chairs on the porch seem to beckon you to sit a while, listen to the sounds of the forest, and enjoy life the way it used to be.

It sounds a little cliché but stepping inside is like taking a step back in time.  From the moment you walk through the screen doors, you feel as though you are being transported back to the 1920s and 30s.

“Welcome to Richloam General Store.  Is this your first time here?”

Daisy Brinson, mother of property owner Eric Burkes, stands behind the original cash register and greets each customer as though they are family.  She is quick to offer up a brief history of the store – and more if you ask questions.  Daisy is proud of this little store and its history, not only to Richloam but also to her family.

Daisy Brinson

Richloam General Store’s History

The store was built in 1920 by Sid Brinson to serve as the general store and post office for the Richloam community.  A train depot, ice house, barn, and turpentine still also sat on the property.  In January 1928, the original store burned to the ground, amid speculation the fire was intentionally set to cover up a robbery, which would have been a federal crime because the store housed the post office.

In about a month’s time, the store was rebuilt – this time out of metal – and remained open until 1936.

After serving as a family residence until the mid-1950s, the store sat vacant for nearly 20 years, until John Brinson (Daisy’s husband) purchased the property from his uncle Sid’s estate in 1973.

Daisy reminisces about life on the property, recounting how her sons were raised here.  One of her fondest memories, she admits, is of the boys using the vacant store as their clubhouse.

Open for Business

Fast forward to 2016 when Daisy and John’s son Eric decides to renovate the store, using as much of the original building material as possible.  It is returned it to the way it was more than 80 years ago and reopened as a general store.

The original post office boxes sit just inside the door.  A hand painted sign hangs from the ceiling and copies of “Wanted” posters are taped to the exterior.  The letter slot is just below the postmaster’s window.

Sid Brinson’s name can be seen on some of the original sheets of metal used to rebuild the store in the late 20s. Each pallet that arrived had his name stamped on the top sheets of the bundle.

Other evidence of the original character of the building and the property can be seen elsewhere within the store.  Bricks from the old turpentine still now serve as the fireplace.

And Daisy is happy to point out the 1918 Singer Treadle Sewing Machine she still uses to make aprons, sock monkeys and Raggedy Ann and Andy dolls.

Of course, you can’t visit a general store without looking at the many items on the shelves themselves. The Richloam General Store stays true to the time period and offers goods you would have seen in the 20s and 30s, items you won’t necessarily see in today’s grocery stores.

Jams and jellies, sauces, local honey, salt-cured meat, and jars of candy all offer up a taste of life in simpler times.

Richloam General Store, the oldest historical building still standing in the Richloam area, was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2017.  The folks who stop by are the locals, hunters during hunting season, and the curious.  Fundraising efforts are now underway to restore or rebuild the other buildings on the property to provide more opportunities for visitors to learn about early life in the Richloam community.

Florida’s backroads don’t get any better than this.

 

Note: The Richloam General Store is open seven days a week from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

Punta Gorda: Murals and More in This Small Florida Town

Punta Gorda – It’s Happening on the Harbor – a motto that doesn’t disappoint.  Having grown up only an hour away I was surprised at all this city offered.  Situated along the shores where the Peace River and Charlotte Harbor meet, Punta Gorda provides an eclectic mix of things to see and do: a relaxing waterfront, historic buildings, educational mural walk and a variety of shops and restaurants.

A Brief History of Punta Gorda

The name Punta Gorda was given to the area by Spanish fishermen from Cuba in the early 1800s. It changed to Trabue after Col. Isaac Trabue, from Kentucky, bought the land sight unseen in the early 1880s and had it platted as Trabue.

The name did not stick, however, and in 1887, a group of individuals, including the original surveyor, signed a notice of intent to incorporate Trabue into Punta Gorda.  Although the town changed names, the impact Trabue had on its development did not.  Trabue is credited with bringing the Florida Southern Railroad to town and to stimulating early growth.

The Murals of Punta Gorda

There is much to be read about the history of Punta Gorda, but there is another fun way to learn about this city – through its murals.  The Punta Gorda Historic Mural Society was created in 1994 and is a part of the Florida Mural Trail.  Currently, there are 29 murals already completed, with the 30th in the works.  Print out a guide or pick one up at the Charlotte County Chamber of Commerce and enjoy a day enjoying history through art.

The first stop on the trail, End of the Line, located on the Copperfish Books building, plays homage to town founder Isaac Trabue and railroad pioneer Henry Plant.  Both men can be seen on one of two murals at this location, along with products that were once shipped from the area.  A second mural on the south side of the building features steam locomotive Number 11 as it is pulling into town.

Watch the short clip of the mural here. 

From the city’s founding to Punta Gorda’s first fire station, each of the murals has its own story to tell. A tour of the murals reveals the history of banking, life along the Harbor, the natural beauty of the area, as well as individuals who have left lasting impressions on this city.

Fishing Tales
First City Council
Building a Community

Harbor Life, Then and Now
Classics of the Past
Cattle Drive Down Marion Avenue

Local Black History
Conquistadors
The Churches of Sacred Heart

Hotel Punta Gorda and Hotel Charlotte Harbor
Our First Firehouse

Walk or bike, the murals are a sight to behold and linking to the past is easy through the interactive tour.  Make sure to have a QR code reader on your smartphone to scan the bar codes found next to the plaques for each of the murals. When scanned, you are taken to the Mural Society’s website for an instant description of what you are seeing.

Mural Society Tours and Classes

Although we were able to walk or drive to most of the murals, the Mural Society offers private tours for small groups of 10 – 20 participants.  They also offer “History of Punta Gorda in its Murals” classes where you can learn about the city’s history through a look at each of the murals, without even leaving your seat.  The classes last about two and a half hours and are taught throughout the year, but registration is required.  Call (941) 505-0130 for more information on the upcoming classes and to reserve your seat.

Other Things to See and Do in Punta Gorda

Besides the murals, there are plenty of other things to see and do in Punta Gorda. A walk along the waterfront is definitely a must.  It is part of the city’s Harborwalk, a stretch of a about two and a half  miles along Charlotte Harbor that takes you through Laishley Park and Gilchrist Park.

At Laishley Park you get a spectacular view of the Harbor bridges, not to mention a chance to indulge in ice cream at Harborwalk Scoops & Bites – which bills itself as “Ice Cream with a View.”

Another place to visit is Fisherman’s Village, a favorite spot for locals and visitors alike. Stop in one of the shops at the village, have a bite to eat or quench your thirst at one of the restaurants, take a stroll by the marina, or stop to have your picture taken at one of the ready-made photo backdrops.

Other sites of interest:

 “Calostimucu” the Whispering Giant – a carving by Peter “Wolf” Toth, depicting the first people to inhabit the area. Dedicated in 2006, this towering piece of art also contains a time capsule in its base. The carving is located next to the Charlotte County Chamber of Commerce and Punta Gorda Historical Society which are located in the A.C. Freeman House.

Historic Downtown: Walking through historic downtown, it is easy to come across historic plaques and markers about important people and places.  These signs provide more insight into the early history of Punta Gorda.

Punta Gorda Railroad Depot and Antique Mall: The railroad played an integral role in the history of Punta Gorda beginning in the late 1880s. Now on the National Register of Historic Places, the depot was built in 1928 and was the southernmost train station at the time in the United States and was used mainly for shipping fish to markets to the north, even though it also carried passengers. After the depot closed, it was bought and donated to Old Punta Gorda, Inc., then restored and reopened as a museum and antique mall.  Although the building bears the original signs for the segregated waiting rooms, the museum has incorporated those into its exhibits showcasing early pioneers.

Punta Gorda has turned itself into a destination you don’t want to miss.  Its history has been preserved, and its present and future have been embraced.  Spend a day. Spend a weekend. For a city that bills itself as “Happening on the Harbor” Punta Gorda definitely delivers.

Related Stories:

Town of Murals: Lake Placid, Florida